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Having fun on the interstate my car decided to spew coolant. I hope it’s not a head gasket pressurizing the coolant system as it happened at full tilt. What’s the usual suspects i can’t tell from the initial inspection I need to hose thongs down and wait till things dry out and hope it leaks while idling.
It looks like it came from the front of the engine. Best guess would be water pump and associated hoses (known problem area). DO NOT DRIVE the car, you risk cooking your engine in a major/terminal way.
I had a small leak from a O ring last week. The hose was the small one that runs from the overflow. Perhaps that will help give you another place to look.
Thank you all for the responses, it appears it’s coming from the large plastic hose adapter near the throttle body. I can’t find the part online tho. anyone have a part number?
It’s a fused piece of plastic and it’s leaking at the seam.
These early plastic coolant "hoses" are a known failure point. While I cannot comment on how to repair, there are at least one other plastic pieces that are known to fail and one is at the back of the engine. IMHO I would be replacing all those known failure points and the water pump at this time and count myself lucky that I did not damage my engine. Just my 2 cents.
Yes you figured it out correctly. If your car has those plastic cooling parts with the big square seams that's the failure prone one. Yes replace it with the improved smooth seam version. You posted the correct part number AJ813917.
When my water pump was replaced under warranty they also replaced the following;
Pipe - AJ813865
O-ring - AJ811539
Gasket - AJ811948
Gasket - AJ811576
Gasket - AJ811590
You also have a rear cooling manifold that has the same problem. They don't fail as often but they will fail due to the type of seam used to join the plastic half's together.
Part # AJ814007. The rear water manifold requires the SC to come off so don't forget the gaskets for that and be sure and change the oil in it when it's off.
Check if you have the SC coupling clunk as it's also very common if not 100% sure to happen. Pretty cheap to fix once you have the SC off anyway.
Be sure and get the latest version of the water pump as Jaguar has revised it at least 6 times so far. Current part number is AJ813909.
There is another coolant hose that should be replaced if the SC if removed too. I can't find that part number - Sorry!
These were the correct part numbers but check to make sure something has not changed.
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Yes you figured it out correctly. If your car has those plastic cooling parts with the big square seams that's the failure prone one. Yes replace it with the improved smooth seam version. You posted the correct part number AJ813917.
When my water pump was replaced under warranty they also replaced the following;
Pipe - AJ813865
O-ring - AJ811539
Gasket - AJ811948
Gasket - AJ811576
Gasket - AJ811590
You also have a rear cooling manifold that has the same problem. They don't fail as often but they will fail due to the type of seam used to join the plastic half's together.
Part # AJ814007. The rear water manifold requires the SC to come off so don't forget the gaskets for that and be sure and change the oil in it when it's off.
Check if you have the SC coupling clunk as it's also very common if not 100% sure to happen. Pretty cheap to fix once you have the SC off anyway.
Be sure and get the latest version of the water pump as Jaguar has revised it at least 6 times so far. Current part number is AJ813909.
There is another coolant hose that should be replaced if the SC if removed too. I can't find that part number - Sorry!
These were the correct part numbers but check to make sure something has not changed.
.
.
.
Thanks for the insight. To replace the pipe over the TB do you need to remove the SC or not? I started to tear down the car in anticipation.
The SC clunk is present at shut down but I don’t have idle slap.
the part came out. Now goes the big decision to continue tearing it down further? There is a hard aluminum pipe that seems to be the biggest reason for me to not tear down further. But at 93k I did not like how this part failed and left me to limp home. I’d hate to be in a remote location and rely on a Jaguar repair shop to get me home.
I found a picture of the other suggested part. not my car. But I’d like to know the other problem parts to gauge expense.
Decided to keep going . Not sure why I’m pretty sure it’s better for the long haul as I am going to try to get 200K out of this vehicle. I also pushed the timing chain with a screw driver and there is lots of give, which is probably a sign on the tensioner ratchet failing and only working hydraulically. I think I will bite the bullet and keep going all the way down to the tensioners and guides. I don’t have chain noise but I feel like I am half way there. Totally did this to myself, I kinda knew some of these problems on the platform and still decided to fall in love and purchase. This is totally emotional and completely illogical.
Im stuck at the back. Not sure what’s tugging back at me
If you're going that far, I'd change the pump and everything else associated with the coolant system just to be safe too.
I've had two water pumps go on my 2011 N/A V8, the first January 2016 at 35,000 miles, the second January 2020 at 70,000 miles, which was "right on schedule" to being within 4 miles of the last time it was actually changed. This time we changed all the pipes and she's been running perfect since.
Made some more progress. I’m glad I got into the SC, I fixed the auto/stop on this car and I bet it would have completely destroyed the SC pulley hub.
Getting the components in the back of the supercharged was a total bear, everything else was pretty smooth. I am torn to replace that coolant manifold in the back of the engine, it’s $100 dollars and it appears the replacing part is still a two piece design?
Yes we have seen this metal wear before. I don't think it's caused by the stop/start system?
This is why I purchased a replacement snout instead of planning on fixing/replacing my coupler.
I ran across a great deal from the UK for around $215 for the entire snout. Part #C2D52713.
As you know the difference between the SC snouts is how the SC bypass is controlled. The early cars used vacuum and the later cars were electric.
They don't interchange so be sure which version you need.
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I had a small leak from a O ring last week. The hose was the small one that runs from the overflow. Perhaps that will help give you another place to look.
Hey I suffered the same failure just now. Do you by chance know what there part number is or maybe the party name?? Thanks
I used one from a o-ring kit that I had. It was a Dorman kit 799-450d metric. The original is more of a flat style than round. I think its a 6mm id x 10mm od x 2mm wide. I noticed mine while doing the belts and spark plugs. Glad I caught it when I did.
04-24-2020, 07:02 PM
:(.Coolant leak.
. Not sure why I’m pretty sure it’s better for the long haul as I am going to try to get 200K out of this vehicle. I also pushed the timing chain with a screw driver and there is lots of give, which is probably a sign on the tensioner ratchet failing and only working hydraulically. I think I will bite the bullet and keep going all the way down to the tensioners and guides. I don’t have chain noise but I feel like I am half way there. Totally did this to myself, I kinda knew some of these problems on the platform and still decided to fall in love and purchase. This is totally emotional and completely illogical. 
