Is it safe to drive with about 1 cup of coolant in the engine oil? This happened when I was changing the gasket for the oil cooler as soon as I removed the oil cooler coolant starting pouring into the engine
I need to drive 15 kms to my oil change shop or I could change the oil in my driveway if absolutely necessary

 

Oil and water donīt mix well, so when pump sip water to the circulation and it enter on the bearing surfaces the temp of the bearings can rocket high by friction. So high that it may cause pernament damages. Because oilchange is so easy on XJ with cheap oil extractor pump i would do oil change in driveway, instead of starting engine with coolant on oil.

 

JaguarXJL15, I second the recommendation to not run the engine with any significant amount of water/coolant in it. Is the 15KM drive worth a potential $40K CAD bill for a new motor? Getting a vacuum pump and 7 quarts of oil is cheap insurance from destroying a motor.

 

I can bring my vacuum system to your place if you need help. It's only a 2 minute job and you can then decide if you wish to buy your own set up. PM me with your info and we can set it up for this afternoon.

 

I think I will just drain the oil from the bottom vacuum pump might leave some oil/coolant
hard to imagine 1 cup of coolant in 6.5 liters of oil will do damage I thought it would just get burned off as white smoke out the exhaust

 

Like said: Water do not mix on oil without heavy mixing. Currently water is propably sitting as one bublle on botton of your sump as its heavyer than oil. Now, lets imagine you start your engine. (this of cource are just a theory, but possible) Your oilpump pickup neck suck that bublle of water (lets say 2dl) on one go once the engine starts cranking and shoot it thru oilchannels towards oilfilter and then all around to the bearings. The water propably enter on bearing surfaces just on the moment your cylinders start to firing, and because engine is still running low rpm, rapidly shooting up, the oil (or in this case water) pressure are not very high, so there are not full fluid floating between surfaces. The water is very poor lubricant so friction between surfaces can rocket high. This can cause permanent marks for surfaces or even spun the bearing what closes the oilchannel of that bearing. Situtation would be much better if and when water is spread to microdroplets all around of the oil. (oil colour turns brown, like coffee with milk on it) The mixture have only some part reducted lubricant specifications, instead of plain water circulating. Of cource i can be totaly wrong, since i never dear to run angine where water slipped to the oil.
I would not take the risk, buit its your engine. (please inform anyway what happened or did it survive)
Btw: Not sure how much you know four stroke engine principals, but water on oil will not found a way to burn away thru exhaust very easyly. In n time water vapours from oil thru crankcase wentilation system but 2dl will propably will take long time to vapour out. Compare boiling 2dl water away)

 

And the glycol in the coolant will take a lot longer to evaporate. Considering a failed engine basically totals these cars, it would never make sense to risk the engine over a driveway oil change. And for this oil change, I would definitely pull the drain plug versus the suction tube so that all the water at the bottom comes out.

 

What are the chances the coolant will not drain out with the oil and just stay in some corner of the oil pan (oil change will be for nothing) or some where in the engine? maybe its best to start the engine let it run for a few minutes once the coolant has mixed well with the oil then drain it out? what do you think?

Too bad I don't have my old oil from last oil change I could've put it back in and run the engine and drain that too

 

Change that signifient amount would left is almost zero if you vehicle are level. Water is heavyer than oil and when you open the drain the flow will push it out. (or suck it out since pipe are very near of botton of the pan)
Like i wrote, crtical moments are the very first seconds you start the engine with bublle on oil in the pan. However, its your engine.

 

I agree, wholeheartedly, HOWEVER, I would think that either A) you'd need to remove the "belly pan" from the car, to access the drain plug; and/or B) even if the pan doesn't need to be removed, you might still need to have the car "up" a couple of inches (or MM, if applicable) in order to have some "work room".

Ramps are ideal for this task, HOWEVER, in order to get the car up on ramps, you'd need to start it and drive it up on them. Quite the conundrum.................

 

No worries this is where my floor jacks and jack stands come into play

 

I have once removed engine undercover just with one jack + one stand on my driveway. (forget to tight the starter motor positive lead after timing belt job and it get lose -> non starter, so could not drive it to lift)
Oildrain plug is side of the pan and if you want you can rise opposite side of the car for better drainage. Note: its safe to lifgt alumium XJ chassis from one corner so much that you can change a tire, but its adviced that do not lift "far out".

 

My driveway is not flat its sloping down Where can I place my level tool to make sure its level before I open the drain bolt?

 

At what milage is it recommended to do the timing belt? did you do it because something was wrong or regular maintenance?

 

I don't know....the oil is been sitting for more then 7 days it is not hot oil that will come rushing out like you imagine probably slow drain

 

Your car has the AJ126 V6 (petrol) engine which has timing chains and not a timing belt, whilst Vasara has the 3.0 V6 diesel engine which has rubber timing belts.
About the only thing they have in common is they are both 3.0 litre V6 (and they both use the same oil filter and they both have oil extraction tubes!)
Regular change intervals for the diesel engine timing belts, 110k miles IIRC, but no change interval for the AJ126 timing chains which are theoretically "for life" but are known to be a bit problematic due to "stretch" and becoming a little loose and sometimes need to be changed out on high mileage cars.
But with your car/engine it's very much a case by case situation, most often the car/engine will be scrapped before the timing chains need replacing and only relatively rarely will new timing chains be needed.

 

Exactly. 3.0l Diesel have two timing belts need to be replaced with service intervals. One for camsafts (175t km / 110t mil or 10years) and one for high pressure pump (240t km / 150t mil). Both quite easy DIY and parts well available. (fuel oump belt is more difficult on XF than XJ, because of less space)

Are you parked nose uphill or downshill? If the driveway is steep you can use gravitation to roll it carefully downhill for the ramps etc. You donīt need to have it "bobblesharp" level. See bellow.

The water have much less viscosity than oil and weight of the oil is pressing it down, so once you open the drain you propably get the coolant out and then oil. By watching the botton of the 3.0l V6 petrol engine sump and its draining example from this youtube video on time 33:15 forward, the very botton of the sump have area of approx 10x15cm and its sloped to the drainage plug. Now take a bowl about that size and pour 2dl water on it and imagine that you open about 12mm hole on botton side on it.
Oil is cheap comparing the risk you might have starting your engine with that much water in pan. (new oil never harmed any engine )
If you got lets say 80% of water out, you are in much better situtation, because instead of having two teaspoon of water on engine oil than an coffee cup is huge difference.

 

Being a 0W-20 or 5W-20 oil, it will come pouring out of there very quickly even when the oil is at ambient temperature.

 

I'm thinking the best course of action is to simply drain all the oil from the bottom (using the sump plug) then refill with the correct spec and weight oil, then go for a good long drive.
Any coolant left in the oil will be a tiny amount, too little to degrade the oil enough to do any damage, and what little is left will evaporate off once the oil gets up to operating temperature and the car is driven for a few miles after that.

 

You could also sacrifice a couple of quarts of oil to pour more through the sump.