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Does this S/C belt look installed correctly to you ?!!
So I have installed it exactly as the diagram shows, but I can’t imagine that it rubs up against the side of the tensioner like this. What am I missing or doing wrong here? Look on the left side of the pic you’ll see it against the tensioner.
1 - Are you sure that the belt is the same size as the one it replaced?
2 - Have you removed & reinstalled the tensioner assembly? If you did are you sure it's installed with the guide pin (a little nub on the back) keyed into in the indent as it should be. If it's like the accessory belt tensioner, believe there is a bump on the back that is supposed to fit into an indent in the block. It is possible that if the tensioner is rotated a little the bump can be outside of the keyway that it should go into, which would rotate the tensioner a few degrees. IIRC from when I last put my tensioner on, it's possible. You have to make sure the nub is fitted into the indent made for it, not outside the "wall" of the indent.
3 - The tensioner pulley is not grooved because it's made to touch the flat side of the belt, not the ribbed side.
So that all makes sense but I never took it off. A year ago someone installed a new alternator for me but that’s it. And he’s a professional mechanic. I’m not even sure that needed to come off but he talked to me about it walking off bc everything else is grooved. I said it never has in the 50k miles I’ve owned it.
I'm sorry, I should have noticed that.
And all the pulleys are original, OEM size if you have replaced any...(I believe some replace the crank pulley for a little more boost)
A strange problem, but since it's only a belt, and the belt is the proper size, it must be something simple - once you find it, you'll think "...aha!"
2 - Have you removed & reinstalled the tensioner assembly? If you did are you sure it's installed with the guide pin (a little nub on the back) keyed into in the indent as it should be. If it's like the accessory belt tensioner, believe there is a bump on the back that is supposed to fit into an indent in the block. It is possible that if the tensioner is rotated a little the bump can be outside of the keyway that it should go into, which would rotate the tensioner a few degrees. IIRC from when I last put my tensioner on, it's possible. You have to make sure the nub is fitted into the indent made for it, not outside the "wall" of the indent.
3 - The tensioner pulley is not grooved because it's made to touch the flat side of the belt, not the ribbed side.
2- The block is machined in a way where you can't put it on without lining the nubs up. And even if he did, the belt is still clearly under tension.
3- The tensioner pulley has ribs so that the belt doesn't slip off because it runs on the inside of the loop, and it runs on the inside of the loop because it wouldn't tension the belt if it were on the outside. The idler pulley (one below the SC pulley) is smooth and should be, regardless of whether the belt is smooth or ribbed on the side that runs agains the idler.
The tensioner is 180 degress off. It should be lower as in the photo. Flip it to where the pulley is towards bottom and it will solve it. I did the same thing once. Until i saw a picture i could not figure it out
The tensioner is 180 degress off. It should be lower as in the photo. Flip it to where the pulley is towards bottom and it will solve it. I did the same thing once. Until i saw a picture i could not figure it out
You're wrong. It's impossible to instal the tensioner correctly. You might have "done it once," but it sure as hell wasn't on an AJ126 or AJ133.
The belt seems to be too "short" causing tensioner pulley to be invards so much that the belt is rubbing. If the belt would be just bit longer the tensioner would move its pulley more outwards (left direction on pic) giving more space for the belt.
Did you put new belt? Correct lenght?
If you used same belt is it possible that it turned inside out when you had it off? (grooves different depth causing belt sitting higher on pulleys?)
So I got around to taking it back off with a buddy and it’s properly situated on the 2 nipples on the back of it. Is it possible that it’s lost or losing spring tension ? The only thing it could be right ? It need replaced ?
The belt don´t strech, so spring on tensioner can´t make a differense, exept its totally gone, but then you don´t have any rotation either.
We are missing vital info from you to get correct ansvers. Are this new belt? Was it same length than old belt?
From my view the belt is too short and that causing the tensioner arm positioned too much invards so the belt running also too invards.
no this belt is every bit of 3-4 years old. I dont recall it being like that when I took it off but then again I had other worries on my mine. its actually a touch longer than my other belt bc I still have it. not much but some bc I thought maybe I put the wrong belt on I will put the longer one back on. So no the belt is the same. I would of told you if Id of changed belts that would of been the obvious fix. thanks for the reply
Ok. Have you removed the tensioners and is it possible that you have mixed them? I mean auxilary and supercharger tensiones? They seems to have different size of pulley?
well i removed it just the other day but I never had them off at the same time. This one has the 2 little nipples on the back that match up perfectly. The only thing it could be is the belt is suddently to tight or the spring inside the tensioner is bad (assuming that is something that can happen.)
Yes, by these nipples the tensioner cant be positioned wrong. The spring only set the tension and because belt dont strech the position of the tensioner don´t change (much) if the spring is tighter. (you can try to turn tensioner outwards to see if the situtation gets better)
Did you had idler pulleys removed and perhaps mixed together? They have also different diameter. Without been working with V8 SC engine, is it possible that there are multible threads where the idler pulley(s) bolt can be mounted?
(no mechanical part just change its size or lenght by itself when removed, so this must have some logical reason or somebody made an trick for you and swapped parts when you weren´t pay attension. Any of your friends smiling your issues? )
2- The block is machined in a way where you can't put it on without lining the nubs up. And even if he did, the belt is still clearly under tension.
3- The tensioner pulley has ribs so that the belt doesn't slip off because it runs on the inside of the loop, and it runs on the inside of the loop because it wouldn't tension the belt if it were on the outside. The idler pulley (one below the SC pulley) is smooth and should be, regardless of whether the belt is smooth or ribbed on the side that runs agains the idler.
Let's consolidate this convo to one thread.
The idler has different variations of smooth or grooved. Both show up in parts finder as valid options for my car. I don't recall the driver for this but mine is grooved and has been from the factory. (2012).
OP looks like has a VAP belt, but mentioned nothing changed.
09-02-2024, 01:26 PM
Does this S/C belt look installed correctly to you ?!!
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