Hi George
We steal the thread, but some my thoughs:
Very sorry, the UK plate system don´t open to me. Manufacturing year would tell more. I am quessing you had pre- and facelift models?
I still suspect some clitches on your vehicles, since based on my friends naturaly aspirated 4.2, the x351 3.0D was bit faster, but vise versa; my friend think he had someting wrong on his XK. It sometimes refused to fire up. Never catch the fail, since everytime i went to check it, it desided to work fine. (he sold it quite fast after i bought x351) I think his XK was somewhere from 2005-07?
And defently, there should not be any lag on 3.0D. The primary turbo should offer positive pressure as low as ~900-1000rpm, and secondary turbo are spinned up before its join, so there should not be "valley" either in the midlle. (boost pressure can be read thru OBD2) Anyhow: Your diesels are gone, and happy that you find your dream car.
I have been driving and (racing) many petrol cars. From unforgivable angry 2-stroke go-karts to RallyXross but for everyday road usage i really like the efortless low end torgue of 3.0D. However: i am not agressive driver on roadnetwork, i got my kicks from track. (not racing active any more though, i am already 56 years young )

The race chips are mostly not the value of money. (not saying they are all bad, there could bee good ones as well?) Better option are proper ECM programming, since the chart are never flat. The otto-combustion engine do have variables exsample air intake, where airflow works differently dependinfg the speed of air.
I can image the difference of moving to the XKR. For sure doubling the power will have an effect.
Funny: I have been looking V6 F-types lately, since even my XJ still drives and looks great, but fact it is now 13y old and have 184t miles (300t km) on clock. However, the (early) AJ126/AJ133 engines have lot of issues in cooling and timing chains. Finland have horror vehicle import tax (even we are in EU where such tax should not exist). Vehicles here are approx 40-70% more expensive than in UK. Big engine adds even more by progressive CO2 tax. Therefore we have low amount of luxury / expensive vehicles and average age of cars are high. Five F-types on sale at the moment in Finland. Ten x351 XJ:s. I have mostly bought my cars from Germany and payed the import tax.

Thanks George. I am blushing here. All kind of vehicles/engines have been my hobby since 10 years old. I am happy to share knowhow.
(i studied for vehicle engineer, but never worked with cars. Ended up to the IT-industry)

Or software coding.

 

It's a common problem with the 3.0 diesel engine. My Jag is also 17MY diesel. There are many causes of overboost problems. Check the "throttle body", first. There is an O-RING inside, which is a consumable. If this cuts, overboost will occur. If that doesn't resolve, you should check the throttle body for cracks. Sometimes cracks occur, because housing is plastic.

JLR KOREA recommends replacing the second turbo if checking the throttle body does not resolve the issue. I had the same problem and was able to solve it by replacing the throttle body and turbocharger.

 

Cracks or leaking joints in pressurised side of air intake cause underboost or Measured Airflow too high errors. (seen also that the O-ring can slip out by pressure)
Overboost come when too high pressure measured on intake.

 

As I said... Red dpf, Amber engine…. Limp.
Seems no diesel in oil. Drove it since it appeared for 4 km and park. Todayarriving theicarsoft v3. So….a lot of guysclear codes and do a force regen or a highway blast. Is that ok? I mean if it's not diesel in oil.
Force regen works? 3000+ rpm in neutral?
Opened the Bn bonnet…. No leaks…. All good.
I had in 3 months like….3 Amber pdf, that dissapierd with highwaysprint. Isn't that a lot of amber dpf? Is that normal? I mean…..more city driving , but.…. Kind of often, 1 Amber pdf a month.
Willbe checking errors on icarsoft v3….. And if only dpf….. Delete and even If red….. Blast on the highway or force regen in the parking lot?
Thx

 

danu99: What model year your XJ is? Is it Euro6 or Euro5? (pre or post year 2016?)
The regen will work, but with that you don´t fix the problem on your engine. You only clean the DPF but the reason why your engine generates so much soot that normal usage are not enough to clean it is still there.
There are few possible reasons for high soot emission:
- Poor compression (stuck piston rings - Use only recommend low ash engine oil)
- Air rescrictions (air filters, soot on valves, "throtlle body" jamming - again low ash engine oil)
- Wrong measurements for air or fuel. (clean MAF:s and MAP)
- Leaking air pipe or intercooler
- Dirty injectors or low fuel pressure (fuel spray from injectors are not good or injector are leaking extra fuel to the combustion chamber. Use some injector cleaner, like Lucas Oil Upper Cylinder Lubricant injector Cleaner or BG44K. Change fuel filter.

Some of these should light the MIL light, but not all.
My one have 314t km (196t Miles) on it and i newer seen DPF light on dash, even i drive time to time very short city journeys. (also time to time 300-400km highway runs)

 

x351 2010 euro 5 tdv 6
i only Use 5w30 moțul c1
throttle body îs new
Fuel filter new.
Your info is great. Will check them all.
The Icarsoft I ordered and arrived today wasn't compatible with jlr…. So return and be another one. On periodic inspections(mot), gases were on spot. Perfect result. I do use poor diesel.… not premium and without additifs…..and I don't use injector cleaners. So….. Will look for that. Problem might be that I drive a week 200 km in town and once a month maybe 1..200 km outside. That maybe the reason for Amber dpf. Witch is deleted in about 8 km of highway at about 100 kph.
Will check the rest of the ideas…. Maybe a smoke test for the air circuits.
Soot on valves……. That's a discussion. I want to replace all the rockers because they are a bit noisy when cold.
Mafs and map.… can they be cleaned? Just simple like that? Maybe as usual maintenance? With what? Brake cleaner? Or what?
Again…. Thks for the answer…. Will follow with news

 

Hi,
Ok. We have same models.
Good to hear thay smoke test have been Ok on MOT.
Hmm.. noisy rockers when cold? I recommend to check your oil filter drain valve as soon as possible. Read this: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/diesel-variants-all-models-52/v6-diesel-2-7-3-0-oil-filter-drain-valve-275907/
If you are familar with tools, the cleaning of both MAF:s and a MAP sensor are easy. For MAF:s there are an cleaning spray available made for MAF:s. (like CRC Air Sensor Cleaner Pro) Do not use anything else than made for MAF:s or do not touch the hair thin wires inside with anything. I havent get good results with brake cleaner for some reason. They seems to leave something behind. (seen when sprayed to the mirror and let vaporised) You can also swap MAF:s, since secondary (top one) are only used maybe 10% of the time than primary. (they are identical) Secondary MAF are only used above 2600-3000rpm when second turbo will join.
MAP is sitting right top middle of the engine, on throtlle body with one screw. Carefylly clean it from soot. Avoid poking too deep because there are diaghram inside. If its looks clean or just have thin layer, better leave alone. Heavy soot layer on that area will point use of non-low ash engine oil or too long oilchange intervals. (owner before you)

The injector cleaner have been worked all my past diesel engines. (not only XJ) In past i used Liqui Moly, but once i tested Lucas i have been using that. I add it twice a year, spring and autum, for 3 full tank in row. (it get very thick in winter, hardly get out from bottle) The idle smooths out and get quieter after that threatment.
The good and fine fuel spray from injectors are pretty important on modern diesels, where 3 to 5 (+) pulses are sprayed for one combustion cycle. If there are droplets or delays in spray, fuel will not burn complete in combustion and thats when lot of soot are generated.

 

great answer again.
About the oil filter drain valve.…. Just changed the oil pump and….. Oil filter with the aluminum part that holds the drain valve. It's all good and new. Rockers noisy because old I thought.
About cleaning sensors and injectors and so on….. I am coming from a Mercedes W211 om 646. 7 years with me. And still going. Never ever ever have I cleaned those on that. Never touched the injectors. Maf…. Oxygen…. And so on…… never ever. All I did was a cleanup for the intake manifold last year…and in plus….. With a little spray and blow even in the valves. So…… for me.…. This level on careful with this stuff is not new….. I know about those…. But never felt the need to do it on other cars. But….. Will do it with this one.
It's great to understand the level or care I have to have to this car…. I do a lot of stuff myself….and what I can't do….. I have a good service firm…. But prefer not to spend money at service unless I am over my head.
Will use liquid moly for injectors…. And other stuff for sensors. Thanks again….
Tomorrow new oil…. And filter. Today I started the Jag for 1-2minutes…. Rev it over 3000.…. Seems no limp……. If tomorrow no limp…. After oil change…. A little blast on a highway….. To force a regen, god help.😂😂
I am driving the care with care because some stearing problems. I wrote on other threads. Jittery staring wheel. After that resolved….. Dynamic and go like hell…… 😂😂😂😂

I do have a question curiosity. What level of oil do you guys have on the screen? Whats your normal? Mine is one space under the max….. For silent rochers and just like a habit front the old oil pump.

 

Hi,

Ok, good.
The W211 om646 (Euro4) was released in the markets about 2002, so its desing age are bit earlier than AJD-V6. It had quite much less sophisticated fuel system because during that period the development of engine managment took huge steps ahead during popularity peek of diesel models. Exsample typical Euro4 max injector fuel pressure were 1100-1300bar and on Euro5 engines its 1900-2200bar. Om646 is very rugged and reliable engine though. When looked after, runs more than chassis can take. (similar like PSA/Ford 2.2 litre diesel from same era) You might already know that the 3.0D engine are made by PSA/Ford co-operation too?
Things have changed bit more complicated during development.

For steering wheel vibration check low front suspension arm, so called "banana" arm, inner bushes. When they get soft the front wheels can start "fishtailing" by rolling geometry, speciality on braking. I am on my 3rd set with these kilometers. Lemförder are OEM part and complete arm are not expensive and easy to change. (4 wheel adjustment needed afterwards -> x351 are extremely sensitive for aligment)
You might want to download x351 Service And Repair Manual from the sticky section. It is very good for DIY, gives confident and cover almost everything. (quite big size: over 3400 pages, 84Mb)

I aim my oil level on 2/3 full. Note: You might want to try another brand of oil, like Castrol C1, because by my experience some oils can cause hydraulic tappers/rockers noice by cavitation effect. Never ficured the reason, but the oil in one engine can cause noise, what don´t happen with same oil in different engine. I quess its something to do how the oil is provided for the hydraulic tapers or type of the tapers?

 

Please read ALL if this post, will help you in your DPF issues

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...1/#post2659557

 

So… thank you for your time, answers, and knowledge.
When I bought the Xj, one of my thoughts was that being a British car, must have a big community, people who repair their car and diy. And that on those forums can find knowledge and help. I am glad I wasn't wrong. The service manual is great and thx for the info. I only had some screenshot s until now. So…. Thanks again and thanks to vasara!
God bless all and lets hope we can find spare parts for many years at reasonable prices.
Will make a follow-up here with dpf and any info I have regarding the subject.

 

So…. Follow up on dpf.
Today…. Oil change and filter.
Check for errors.


These are the errors
Deleted errors. All gone except dpf full.
Got in the car… drove to store for cigarettes ,drive to petrol station... Diesel in…. And when starting the second time the engine…. Check engine amber again……. Drove on highway, 110-130 kph, for 140 km, limp active, no regen,
Is there any correlation between limp and amber check engine? I mean…. After deleted the check engine… no stops directly to highway, maybe a better result? Maybe only with dpf full error, could have worked the regen?
And if not?….. What's the next step? Dpf cleanup? What do you guys use? Or to go to the cleaning shop(400 euro ) and do it there?
Anyone? Help?!!!!

 

The regen will not start if the MIL (yellow engine) light are On.
The mexican hold off can happen if MIL light are lit because filter are full and can´t start the burning.
You can try clear the codes once more and then immediatly start forced DPF burn process. (i havent ever need to done it for AJD-V6 /DT20 engine, but many times for other brand inline 4 / V6 / V8 /V10 diesel engines from various vehicles. It will take about 10min and EMC will run engine in various speeds. (also high rpm) Do it in open air, since engine will be hot, exhausts even hotter and some smoke and bad smell are happening. (and maybe sparks from exhaust as well, so check that there is nothing behind of the vehicle)

 

Mexican standoff? I mean……?????
So…. Can I clear yeloy engine light a go immediately on the highway? Emc is what? Or you talk aboutforces regen using the software?
Thx

 

Mexican standoff are an situtation where there are no way out. Can´t start regen because of MIL light are On and full DPF lights MIL.
EMC = Engine Managment Controller: Yes, try to clear codes and then start forced regen from the diag tool you have. (if the tool supports it)
I am afraid that now driwing the car will make situtation worse. (more and more soot on DPF -> Limp mode is not the cleanest mode of running,

 

Well….. That's that.
Dpf cleaning. By shop. That should do the trick.

 

What do you say it's a better method for cleaning dpf? Shop method I mean
1: hot water and cleaning substances
2: oven heated and high pressure?

Thx

 

I have used just an running water hose changing direction few times until only clear water come out. However: I havent ever dealt with complete clock DPF. I have seen shops cleaning DPF:s on site by spraying specific cleaning solvent to the DPF thru temp sensor hole or perssure sensor pipe and let it work its magic ~30min(?).
Oven heating propably are no sense, because DPF are running min exhaust temp >350C and during burning at 600C - 650C. Everything under that is just normal day for it.
Very high pressure can even harm the matrix inside, i believe soft methods for cleaning saving material and surfaces. (expept if you have 25min for the next race start and engine are still in parts )

 

Yeah…. Wet cleaning. Shop. 100 euro cleaning and 100 euro labour cost. Next week operation. Until then…. Won't drive the xj

 

Another question
So….. Dpf problem…… could only be from really shitty diesel? Really bad quality?
Why I ask this.
Previous owner I think had good care of it
Fuel consumption is spot on. At 110-130 kph, on flat, no elevation, 5, 5 to 6.3 liter per 100 km.
130 and up…. Highway condition… 7-7.5
Filters changed.… good oil……
Idle is normal, no hickups.….
Engine is clean. I changed the oil pump 200-300 km ago…. Crank clean, oil pan clean…. No leeks from nothing…. Nu turbo noise.
Pulls really good and consistent. Another oil change yesterday…. Oil normal, just black.
All and all no problems in behavior, no errors except that amber and now red pdf light.
So…. There are 2 types of diesel. I use the normal one, not the higher one. Could that effect the burn in the engine and could result as soot in dpf? I don't want to go all alien theory here about the eco **** policy where they want to get rid of diesels but…. Maybe little push in quality helps people kill diesel engine.?????
What's your opinion guys?
Only poor diesel could be the reason of once a month amber dpf and finally red dpf?