For me its hard to say. Our market have only one type of Diesel. (in fact two, Neste MY Diesel are fully bio diesel, made 100% from waste, but weirdly its more expensive)
When everything are correct order and in op temp, our Euro5 engines will past the MOT smoke test even without DPF. (i had an Citroen Jumper van in past for my hobby, it was Euro5, my.2010 with 2.2D and no DPF at all from factory. Passed the MOT smoke test every time, even in the end it had well over 400t km on it)
If everything else are correct on engine, then it can be the fuel quality. However: You first need to your DPF cleaned. After that fill up with better quality and keep running with that to see if you enter in same situtation later.

 

I know. Wednesday dpf…. Then clean and diesel and.…. Empirical data until v3 arrives. And then….. Different data to compare
But….. Only good diesel with cleaning additive

 

This hit me when i was driwing home today.
Danu99: Do your XJ happens to have an "tune" box? If it have, take it away and shovel it as deep in the seller a..s that it never came back.
Because most of these cheap box:ses are killer. Typically they only extend injection time for more fuel, but do nothing for the air. -> Your engine running rich and that will fullfill everything with soot. Proper and correct way for the tune are made by mapping the ECU charts, keeping the air/fuel mixture aspect in correct level.
8-10 years ago my friend bought 2nd hand XC90 with 2.4D engine. Bunch of service notes on clove box pointed that it had just DPF & turbo cleaned plus fitted new EGR. After 3-4 months everything was clocked up totally again and we start to find a reason for it. We were rigging an injector leak testkit over the injectors when we found cheap "tune" box attached to the wires. We ripped that off and cleaned everything on exhaust side. Turbo were totally sooted up. I mean 20mm thing black nasty goo in it. We used Mr. Muscle drain cleaner for turbo and egr to solve soot off. (not recommend for DPF or catalysator) Everything worked since and my friend sold his Volvo last summer with >440t km (>275t miles) and still running good.

 

will look into this ideea but don't think that's the case. Seller, over 40, me over 40….. No need for lies. My bet is on the idea that normal diesel is so crap here….. . I know stories, many, about 4-5-6 year bmw engines totally clogged up with soot. Manifolds, turbos, egr. From bad diesel and wrong oil. Horror stories. Even youtube films from service shops. I don't quite remember if the seller told me about diesel enhancers for fuel or not. I think he might mentioned something. Funny, egr in W211 was after 10 years really clean. No deposits what so ever. Only about 30-40 % in manifold and 20-30 %on valves. Same normal fuel.

 

I think its heat causing soot to stick on some engines and some not. Basicly the newer desing, higher temps are used bacause increased heat means cleaner burning, but same time more demanding for the oils and increased NOx emissions. (finally need of adblue systems on Euro6 to eliminate increased NOx levels)
However: My 3.0D are soon 14y and it have 314tkm (196t ml). It´s never have EGR, Turbos, inlets/valves cleaned or changed and when peeked to the inlet they have only skim thin layer of soot on walls. I have only used low ash Gastrol C1 oils, with 10t km change interval (6.2t ml) and eventually used injector cleaner. I used to drive long distances only, did 4 oil changes in a year, but about last 1½ year i only been used XJ for weekend shoppings. (it sits weekdays)
I would not need anymore a big highway cruiser, but its really hard to let XJ go. F-Type would be more suitable for me as current vehicle, but they are extremely pricey here and importing one from more sensble German market dosent help much, because the import tax will be set by the value of local market price. (import tax will add about 30-40% !)

 

Ok…. Heat…. But excessive heat from where? I mean… I hear crackles from under the car after any use of the car longer then 1 hour, with 5celsius outside…. But that's just filters in the exhaust cooling. 2010 with 190.000 km…. On board. Guess that's right milage not altered, because a lot of stuff for example in the front suspension is factory. Back is full factory arms and suspension. And still holding. So…. Probably actual mileage. I had that cracking on Octavia petrol, mercede 211, no problem. So…. Did the oil pump was factory, thermostat was changed and did it again ,that junctions that cracks in cooling system was changed, done it again, engine all clear, clean inside the v banks, and outside. Is stays temp wise spot on. Cooling water pump was changed but with a no brand one with plastic fins, I chanGed that with brand one, don't remember now execltly the brand. Run the car 170 kph for 40 km, highway, consistent sprint. All good. I have 2 things strange with the car. Dpf clogging and starting and stopping the engine rocky. And rocky happens as a lottery. About 60% rocky 40 not. Like rocky with 1, 2 second delay with start and stop, with a little shiver like movement of the engine. Was thinking about the valves. Because if I lift the oil cap of the engine with the engine running, on the passenger bank, left hand car, there is a sound like a poop of cork. So valves and lifters .the noise being in sincro with the running the runinNg of the engine. So, was thinking about passenger bank, lifters and valves not ok, windscreen piston. That generates gases in excess on the top of the engine. But no blow by gases. Nothing. Did the front distribution, back seems ok, noisy lifters for 1.2 second on cold start the all good. So hot engine from where? Rocker covers are factory. Plastic tubing factory. Changed the oil epurator and oil cooler on the engine inside the v. NO oil consumption between changes.
So….. Maybe there is something left in the exhaust system….. That gets gradually…. Ejected.
Wednesday dpf cleaning. After Icarsoft v3. I should mention that I am new with diagnose for personal use. But will be learning

 

Hi,
Ohh.. Sorry: i mean overall newer engines run much hotter by desing than exsample Euro4 engines for better economy/burn process.
By my experience the suspension components are good about >250t km, even some trackdays included. (exept the front "banana" arms) On 5.0L V8 its bit different because of more power, but ofcource depends how heavy the right foot are. I have changed only one wheel bearing and one rear lower suspension arm for 314t km. (and front "banana" arms few times)

Hmm.. Rocky engine on startup and shutdown? Do you mean heavy vibrations? This could be caused by leaky injector. -> Theory behind this though is: When you turn off the engine, the fuel supply are cut by electronically controlled injectors and engine stop immediadly. Nothing to burn anymore, so it will stop like a running into the wall because high compression of diesel. If one or two injectors are leaking, they keep sending fuel to cylinders even others have stopped, and these cylinders will fire and you feel it as shaky. Then when your car is parked, the remaining pressure in fuel system will push fuel thru leaking injector(s) and when you start again, these cylinders have too much fuel and you feel unstable running until "flooding" clear up.
Needles to say: All these are unclear burn and make extra soot.
If one or some of your injectors are leaking during normal running too, these cylinders will generate exess soot, because too rich mixture, and also they make more bang noise because the burning flame are not smooth of modern multilayered electronically controlled diesel injection. (old mechanic injection pump engines)
Maybe your lifters are Ok and your only and all problems are caused by leaking injector(s)? This is not unhear for petrol injectors and diesel injectors are even more sensitive because they run in high pressure and tiny tolerances.
Check if your area have an workshop who have diesel injector testing machine? Usually the test itself are not expansive, if you bring the injectors there removed from engine. Don´t try to distmantle injectors yourself. Most cases they don´t work after that at all. Same shop propably can service the old injectors or sell you new one(s) if needed. If i remember right they are Bosh made?

 

not going to touch myself the injectors. Can I see something about them on Icarsoft v3?
Yes…. Some shops are available, reasonable price also. I had the same problem with shaky start stop with 211, but now is parked for winter so next month…. 2 cars with injectors to the shop

 

Not sure, it depends a lot. If the leak are pure mechhanical or the unburn fuel are just fuel that are not atomisied (droblets) by dirt on the tip of injector, i am afraid it cant be sensed by ECU?
ECU can sense weak or shorthed coil of injector and that can be read with diagnostic. I never went deep into modern electronic injectors life, because proper way to diagnose them is to run them in test bench. (-80:s and -90:s mechanical injectors were simple and easy to service. An needle and spring, nothing more. Modern ones have prechambers, with multible valves and springs need to be shimmed etc...)
Maybe dirty or poor fuel can cause these kind of issues? Injectors are lubricated by fuel only and could be that poor quality fuel don´t have good lubricant addictive causing wear? (again area where i am not sure)

 

Done the dpf. From the shops saying…. About 40% full. Why red and limp…..?
Now is 0 charged, with 340 something something flow. That, I was told, its like new.
Not a lot of soot. Not like in those horrible youtube videos, only some really black water after detergent in. Very active substance. Dpf back on, errors deleted…. Done some 10 km at around 70-80 kph, all ok for now.
Maybe Jag very sensitive, different from 211. Very sensitive.
As per errors, I hope Icarsoft.…. May be enough to see all errors, to stay ahead of the curve? Can it show all I need? Next clean….. Myself with cleaning agent in bottle as seen on youtube. Until then, time to time…. Check level with Icarsoft.What to say more…. No oil in dpf, no shoot like butter, only dirty water. They did the full program of cleaning, 30 minutes, no additional pressure or cleaning needed. Additional stept because of too much dirt.
No melted dpf
Will do a check on injectors preety soon.
Will do highway bursts often, summer is coming
Will do better diesel
Will do only dynamic

Suggestions are welcome

Shop tech told me no need for injector cleaning aditifs. Only maf and map cleaning. Reason: if it has dirt in manifold, egr, and so on…. All of that back in the dpf. Opinions?

Price wise: labour on of dpf. 140 pounds
Cleaning 120 pounds.
New oil, 110 pounds.
Location for all in Bucharest Romania if someone here needs.

So….. Learned how it works, next time with software help will do it myself. Seen everything that was done, I was all the time with the car and dpf. If that all about it….. It's manageable.
Ideas, questions, please ask.

Other then that, god speed!

 

Yes, Euro4 and Euro5 engines have different tolerances for emissios. Thats why XJ panic much earlier than 211. (and modern Euro6 engines even tighter)
No need for Dynamic mode only. When everything is in order, an normal driving will do the trick. Some believe that high rpm:s help DPF burning cycle, but that is not true either: With high rpm the post combustion injection what should ignite the catalysator dont have enough time to exit from cylinder before exhaust valve closes or burns away before catalysator.

I would say that injector cleaning addictives are as important than cleaning MAF and MAP sensors. All these 3 elements effects the fuel mixture and if one are wrong the burning are not optimal.
Injectors inject directly to the chamber with multible layers during one cycle, so the atomisation of the fuel is important. (non burning fuel egual soot in exhaust / DPF)
It is good if you check injectors soon.

The DPF work are easy to do yourself, but once all are good, there are no need for that. Like i wrote: My XJ have +300t km and ever needed DPF to be cleaned. Just driven normally.

 

Will follow up with the injectors
I have the spray for sensors. Dedicated.
If I find something strange will take pics and post.
Thx for the help

 

sensor cleaning
As seen in picture. Please opinions about the sensor


Some deposits Inside, and on the walls. Not clogged.
Good? Bad?
Cleaned and done.
Did not use anything else then the spray. Some stuff left on the inside wall. Didn't knew with what to clean

 

That is normal and good condition
Not clocked at all. Just a spray are enough. Small particles do not harm since pressure can be measured thru as long as the pipe is free.

 

Final update
scaned with Icarsoft v3. No more dpf related issues. Car starts and stops less jittery. Just a little bit.… very little bit of jitter. Half of second…. Not 1-2 seconds. Injectors next

 

So….. Follow up on dpf problem. Here are some pics with my injectors


And….
……

So…… injectors are at another shop for checking and refurb if needed. Opinions?
And….. Dpf ful yellow in 3 mounts since cleaned at the shop.… caused by injectors?
Egr seem clean….. Not clogged. A
Again…. Opinions based on the pics?
Thx

 

Hi,
Hard to say anything from injectors just by pics. The spray is most important.
Clean EGR is good. Thats how they should be.
Oily area looks clean too, no black sticky stuff at all, what tells regular oil changes.
Lets wait what is outcome of injectors.
Meanwhile you are this far, its wise to check that the timing are correct. You need to remove the starter motor and have flywheel timing tool. For camshafts 6mm drill bits do the trick. The high pressure pump have also its own timing tool. Youtube have plenty of videos how timing is set. (quite easy)

 

I am really curious myself about the injectors.
Tappers will be replaced.
Seals

The work is done by a shop…. Not by myself. But if you guys have ideas to check, now that the engine is partially disassembled.… please share.

 

Guys…. News.
Injectors are in parameters. No refurb needed.
I got a chance to get hand on with the engine.
Some ideas;
With distribution locked, about 1/3…1/4 of tappets ware making noise when pressed with finger before dismantling. So…for some Tappets gasket.…. Charging with oil, does not keep pressure? Chain tensioner pressed with one finger, got compressed and didn't rebound to full pressing form, didn't rebound at all, just stays pressed
As you can see in pics…. No major wear and tear.…. Only the simptomps I host told you about.
These are Info seen by myself in a short visit to the shop, work being in progress. So….. From experience, who has experience with this, ideas?
And if u can help with some ideas about how this kind of wear and tear could spoil the good functioning of the engine
Ps: I was complaining with some not loud tzak tzak noise on acceleration lift, some small rumble in iddle but no fluctuations and same rumble a bit increased ynder acceleration.

Ps2: I read hear on the forum, for same car but v8 petrol engine… same shaking when start and stop and the vibrations random on acceleration and gear shifting and……. In that story….. Guilty for those wore the all 3 months . Could be the same in my case?

Ps3. Final problem, dpf related…. Yellow eror for full dpf every 3 mounts and about 1000 km made in towns? Taking undr consideration that tappets didn't hold charge any more…( is it a real thing?) and tensioner not tensioning any more…. Could this generate the frequent dpf error?
Thx

 

Another ps to explain better the upper engine noise….. Mild light mumble….. In iddle and park and in drive under acceleration. In park and under revving ( high rpm ) there is about no rummble- mummble. In case of drive and from start direct hard acceleration… more like a tzak tzak metallic noise but rithmic, when rpm load…( guess the tappers, metallic noise)