So….. 1 mm rubbing marks on chain tansioners and both tensioners soft and one not ever springing…….. Could be a reason for dpf yellow every 3 months?
Injectors in parameters.




Opinions? Experiences? That's the driver side bank(left-hand car)
Would verry much appreciate some experienced answers

 

Not sure. The chain tensioners do work with oil pressure as long as the seals keep pressure in. Same for valve lifters. Both effect valve timing but only low degree. Good to hear that injectors are in tolerances.

 

That low degree might be the light humming….. But the engine pulls great. Doesn't eat oil. Fuel consumption ok.
New distribution front and back, full 24 tappers new, injectors checked, no leeks, no smoke, as you can see not much ware and Tare on the parts…. , no blow by from piston rings,
……..
Will see when the cars gets put of the service

 

tappers, chains and high pressure belt….. Done. Along with plugs. And injectors checked. Injectors fine. Now…. Pics with the rest




As you can see, some ware on all. I don't know how bad, I have no idea. No reference to compare to. If you guys have ideas…. Pleas tell me…. Its normal ware, its bad….
As a result of this action, humming on top of the motor is gone. In idle and under accelerating load. Tappets ware a bit loose to. I compared old and new, and the level of loose and jiggling between the arm and tappet is double on the old ones. In addition about4..5 were not charging at all with oil and ware compressing by hand preety easy. Passenger side I think it has about 10-15% more play, more jiggle(left hand drive)
Regarding valves, the whap whap valve noise is pretty gone in idle. Under acceleration g load…from idle to 1500+ rpm, under light acceleration, I think I can hear valves. After that or under spirited acceleration, the engine sound great…. That thick low tone engine rev under rpm….. Consistent and not a trace of metallic noise.
I think.… not sure yet, the exhaust gas is a bit hotter. Yeah, summer is here, but that's my feeling in 2 days. No more rattley, no more too of the engine noise, no more tappets noise when foot of the gas pedal, …… preety much close to normal. Hope this will fix dpf yellow and red at 3..4 months.
Conclusion: a god refurb ar 191000 km. Moust of noise gone. Hotter gas on back end….. Better burn maybe?????
Still some valve noise but I think its time me for that valve cleaner in fuel idea you guys use. And that might solve the cleaning of the valves.
Now, I can drive it more spirited, less noise and more safety. So….. Summer days ahead
Any feed back from your experience would be great, opinions about this job and effects on recirculation of gases, dpf full because of unburned fuel.

 

Good to hear that the repair was succesfull.
Now enjoy the car and we think more if the DPF warning appear again.

 

So….. Being with the car in the shop…. Again…. I got the turbos checked…..


Could this be the often amber dpf full source of problem?

 

The saft seal seems to be lost its ability to seal. There are also hint of colorisation... Heat? This could mean lack of lubrication on some point of its life? Do you know mainteance history? Does low ash oil (C1) used everytime?
Yes, oil dosent burn as well as fuel and will have bigger particles for DPF to cope. Also if turbo havent generated enough pressure, it will lead poor burning processs, but in that case should have DTC Low manifold pressure and immediadly MIL light.

 

Note: Check the part numbher of turbo main case (middle part where shaft and turbines are) You can purchase complete turbo "cartridge" with shaft and turbines assembled and balanced as a spare part. (if i remember right an Garrett turbos are used on AJD-V6)
Its most economic way to repair an turbo, since once you remove shaft from the other turbine you lose the balancing, what are done in pair. By my experience its almost impossible to mount it back so accuracy in same position that the original balancing would be on spot. (these little suckers spin quite fast)
Usually if i need to remove an turbo from any vehicle runned more than ~150t km (100t mil) i change (or recommend owner for it) the turbo cartridge in same go, since they are not so expensive and ist easy job as long you note carefully the positions of turbinehouse outputs against cardridge.

 

a link to the cartrige would be great
But torbos are getting refurb at a professional shop

 

Turbos are refurbed at shop. An returned ready to mount. About 800 euro both in labor and parts. Blue axe means overheating sometime in the past. And one of them had gaskets done. So…… hope no more dpd light.

 

Hi, i don´t have either of AJD-V6 turbo cardridge part numbers so hart to sent link. There are many companys selling these. One exsample such a company; https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/jaguar-chra

Ok, for two turbos including labour 800 euro do not sound bad at all. (removing and installing turbos for XJ 3.0 diesel is a quite job because tight space)
We keep fingers crossed that your DPF issues are soon gone.

 

800 parts and labor for the turbos delivered to the turbo shop.
Engine was out the car so I took advantage to check the turbos

 

Sir, I have a problem.

Main bearings, from the back of the engine. Old ones and new ones, regardless the firm who produces them, have a little to much play, axial play for the shaft. So the play is double the tolerance, front to back play. 0.4. Instead of 0, 2.…. Something like this?. King new are the same, old ones are the same, fai are the same.
What is there to be done? Any repair bearing for this problem? What do people do? Just install the new ones and that's that?
Could anyone help with an idea?

Thats just a test. Something with thicker lateral wals?

 

Hi,
Hmmm..... What year model you have?
I am not sure if there is any difference on main bearings between AJD-V6 3.0 litre ver1 and ver2?
Ver2 (Euro6 engine) have some differences on block, but might be that the crank have differences as well? Would make sense that bearings were made wider, what explains your situtation with 0.4mm gap on axial play. Hard to believe that you could have so much wear on crank, its very hard...

 

I have posted pictures of the crank. Preety good shape at 200.000km. 2010 engine. There are no scuffings on the crank, and in the area of the axial bearings. Literally no ware and tear, just some contact marks. …….

Four d some britcar parts…. With in tolerance…

Anyway…. The engine is at reassembly stage, and reinstall on the car. Another timely refurb at 190.000km

 

We have same model year. (exept i have 316.000km on clock. On MOT smoke test today it pulled 0.01 value, so these engines can run some serious distances)
Absolutely no idea why and how you can have 0.4mm axial play with new bearings? Its mystery. However, its should not be major issue on diesel. Parts are pretty beefy
to cope it. There are rumours about monday morning production quality on AJD-V6... Specially older 2.7litre version. Maybe you have one monday morning mis-made crank? Wearing +0.2mm off from surface would leave marks.

 

Maybe it had crankshaft changed in the past? Mine, I mean. And I can't figure out what brand ware the bearings.

Any ideas?

 

The change of crankshaft might have been happened. On the flywheel end flange of crank have manufacturing dates and codes stamped but you wrote that engine is on the way to the vehicle, so that propably remains as a mystery.
By some pictures/videos on web i think these bearings have same markings than ones from factory,..? Not 100% sure.

 

So guys……. Big big new problem.
And sorry to write here.… but I don't know what to do.
Issue is about another car…. Not the Jag. Its about a Mercedes.
I had done in a shop a oil change and a radiator cleaning.
Took the car….and from leaving the shop I notticeda bad smell coming from the exhaust. Didn't think much of it. Went home…about 5 km. At home I got the idea to check myself the oil level.
Surprise….. Well on top of the maximum on the dip stick. Took a seringe and hose and I have taken out from the dip stick hole about 600ml ( more than half of litter ) . THEY OVER fill the oil engine level
Took the car in town for a drive. After about 10—-12 km…… being night, I noticed white smoke at the back of the car in the lights of the cars behind me. Pulled in the first parking…. Opened the bonnet and…… oil spraying thru the oil cap on the engine….. And thick smoke from the dpf / turbo side. Om 646, 4 cylinder engine!
So.… oil thru the oil cap and on top of the injectors! The cap was closed, so gasket from the cap…… and maybe the cylinder head cover gasket…. Around the injectors also failed
Went home…. Parked the car… next morning the shop sent a ramp and took the car.
They didn't gave me a proper entering the service sheet….. Like they used to.
Checked the oil pressure… cold engine 3, 5 bar….. Normal temp about 1.5 bar…. That seems in the normal. Compression….. At about 2 on all pistons.….. With a permitted low of 1.8. I don't know that's psi or bar….. But, coincidence, the day before the oil change tool the pressure and compression in the same place with the old oil. Only difference seems to be a decrease in compression from 2, 3 to about 2.
So….. New pcv and oil cap, payed by me.
Checked the intercooler pipes…. Both sides…. To see whats inside. It has some black oil moist in the entering to intercooler part…. But if always had. About one maybe two plastic bottle caps. On the other side seems ok.
Checked the turbo intake cold side, because from the pcv its only 30 cm pipe to head of the turbo. I don't know if it supposed to be dry, but it looked like a bit shiny and lubricated. Mind that the pcv hose takes fumes from the pcv from the top of the engine to the air intake of the turbo.
I took the car for a drive yesterday. After the top of the engine was… cleaned.
And….. Problems.
1. Still bad smel at the exhaust. No smoke…. Just smell. DPF oil? Burning in the DPF? Maybe blocking the DPF possible?
2. Still oil in the chamber? On top of the pistons?
3. Oil in the hot side of the turbo? Un burned? Or what?
4… if its still oil, to much, in parts of the engine….. Exhaust.… turbo….. DpF…….. How do I clean it?
5. Hydro lock danger?
6. How to ched if piston rings are still ok?

I DONT want to take back the car and be forced to pay for.…. DPF cleaning….. Turbo cleaning….. And other stuff like that. Only this 2 are about 1000-2000 euro cost.
If the injector gasket leaks again…. That's a 30 euro parts… and 150 euro labour…..
And all probably started from the overfillproblem. The engine was without ANY leak before. Spotless. Engine cover and Injectors gasket was changed 2 years ago. Injectors checked about 2 mounts ago.
The risk of additional cost from this problem is high.
And…… its the same shop and teck where I did the Jag repairs and maintenance. And I have an appointment for another car for clutch replacement.

Like I said above…. I checked what I could think about…. And still don't know what to do with PDF and turbo questions. I DONT want to pay later for their stupidity.
Should I look in the engine with camera for oil on the piston?Should they remove the DPF to see if it is blocked? Being a euro 4 engine…. No worning.…! And also inspect the turbo hot side? Oil goind out of it? That means turbo rebuilt of course!
Any other ideas? Just to be sure?

So…. First... Sorry about talking about another car…. But please help 🆘!
Second…. I told you guys I don't trust shops here. I have seen and heard horror stories like this…… and now…. It happens to me! Mind that this is no small auto shop….. This is a 40 employees shop.
Third….. Never.…. Ever ever ever..., trust the mechanic, if you have some know how….. Check him. Dealerships included.
This is a horrible experience. On a car that I like. 2007 original paint and engine, never opened engine…. Only maintenance, and no problems. And this.… happened!

The… lets say good part….. Engine still working…. Yesterday test was kind of ok. Bad smell only at start and when I left with normal temp engine. After about 7…10 km, engine still worked normal, did 120 kph, sounded….. Pretty normal, no hickups in accelerations. But we all know that the turbo and DPF are….. Full of surprises to say so.
Another technical idea, when checking the compression.… gauge needle going up was solid at first cranks. I have seen youtube videos of what a really bad compression looks like. But…. I am no mechanic.

So….. Please help.… with info about the aftermath of this. DPF and turbo and…. Whatever you have ideas about. Car is still at the shop. Will not take it yet. And if they refuse to do something, I will report Them to state mot and other institutions. At this moment the car is in the shop with no legal papers. That alone is reason for a lot of trouble.

Thank you for the patience to read all of the above…… and.…. HELP.

Forgot: Ps: engine didn't bleed dry of oil. It still has about 3\4 on the dip stick. Ckecked the oil filter… and no sparks, at this moment.



Ps2: possible sludge… built up on the piston rings? Possible broken piston rings? Possible.… anything please! I DONT WANT TO PAY for them after all this

 

First of all: If the shop mess up: They must fix their mess without you pay nothing. Most important thing is evidense.
After this kind of **** happens, always remember this: When you dissuss, even face to face, with them turn the record on in your phone. Just voices are enough. (most countrys you have to mention that you record the discussion for your lecal backup)
Now, when you have evidense what shop have done, not done or refuse done, you can always say that you going for lawer if shop is not take care of their responsibles. When court find them quilty: They pay all your expences too. (on our country vehicle insurance includes court cost insurance, so i can call my insurance company lawer if **** happens to my car) All shops (should have) insurance their own to cover their mistages. They of cource are not keen to use it, because their costs will raise.

For sure oil will splash everywhere if overfilled. You will have oil in exhaust for sure and it can take some time before all have burned away. In some cases the catalysator on DPF have not survived from oil bath and that will lead blocked DPF later because burning process do not happen.
Piston rings defently got flush, but it could be that they actually cleaned from soot? It can take some time before everything settle again.
If the engine is now running Ok i think it survived. (380 -460 psi is a new diesel engine. Used one should put out roughly 350 - 450, About 280 psi start to be level when diesel do not start anymore at all)
I would go to the shop and request them to fix your car on state where it was before their axident on oil change. Full engine clean, fix all leaks; Yes: Extra oil in combustion chamber can increase pressure so high that it burts thru injector / glow plug seals. Clean and check of Cat/DPF and replace Cat if it don´t ignite during DPF burning. ( DPF burning process can be started manually to check this by diag tool and temp can be read by the tool too. The DPF burning will not pass if the Cat dont ignite)
This is mostly work, so should not be a problem for them and should not cost you anything. One mess, he cleans.
New Cat/DPF have some value, but working used one will do well. Injector seals are cheap too.
Exhaust side rotor on Turbo is quite tough, so i don´t think harm is done there and if your engine hydrolocked, you would defently hear and feel it.