My wood trim on the driver's door rattles, particularly after the interior has experienced a significant heat soak. I've taken to cracking all the windows while golfing, for example, but the problem seems to be getting worse I can deaden the rattle by pressing on various places near the stereo speaker located on this panel (standard audio).
Hopefully, I won't have to replace the wood panel; maybe just some fasteners? I can't find a thread dealing with this problem. Anybody experienced and fixed this? Photos helpful

 

I think my wife's XJ has the same characteristics that you're describing, but only when it's hot-soaked, as you also described.
It doesn't last long after we get going, and the inside cools down, which doesn't take long.
It hasn't been a problem to where I've removed that panel to look into it, but I'd guess there's some interface, paper or something, that goes between the panels and door that may be worn, or maybe a fastener that has worn over the years.
But no, I haven't dug into it yet, since it's only a short annoyance that, as you also said, quiets-down with a push on the panel & cooling the interior.

 

According to page 2280 of the shop manual, it appears that the wood trim piece can be removed without detaching the entire door card. Pry two fasteners loose in the front and slide the panel forward? Can anyone confirm this?

 

Yes I have removed all of mine to treat the back sides with stick on sound pads.
Here is the back side and again I am very impressed with the build quality of the XJ! Those trim panels are not cheap plastic but nice quality metal castings.




Now just a suggestion but if that panel has ever been removed the guy might have broken some of the attaching clips. These were NOT easy to find but you might consider getting several BEFORE removing the trim panels.



Note the one on the left is broken internally.

There are several different clips that might get broken removing the door card.
Post back if you decide to get into that.
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Thanks for the Reply. So I'm correct in thinking that the offending panel can be pried (prised) off without disturbing the door card?
More info on the "stick on sound pads", please.

 

Yes just as the picture you posted from the service manual. 2 clips to remove-pull straight out. Then the panel must be slide forward. After you remove the panel you can see what I call the "C" tabs cast in the metal. These hold the panel in place and the 2 clips keep it from sliding forward.

Any stick on sound pad. It's a very big market now. Stuff like Dynamat, Killmat.
These are too expensive and I don't want a bunch of advertising on the foil backing. Looks tacky to me.
I searched a bit and be sure to do some calculations on what your paying for a square foot of product!

I use Noico. MUCH cheaper and it comes in silver or black backing with no advertising! I found it is superior to the big names. Note I like the 80 ml stuff and thinner material will be cheaper but not as effective. I installed a full 36 sq. foot kit in my 2014 XJR. All 4 doors inside and out including the back of these trim panels. Mine are CF. Plus I treated the rear package shelf and trunk since I had that all apart installing the upgraded Reference Kevlar woofers. Again look around as it's almost half price on EBay compared to Amazon!

One other tip I found? Be sure and get a roller kit. I did not think it was needed but I was wrong. It's mandatory! DON'T use the smooth ones! You want and need the ones with ridges on the roller.
Like this;




These are one EBay and Amazon for less than $20. You need all three as there is a lot of corners and nook and crannies that need this material pushed down. This is the FCHO brand.

PS; I need to admit to a stupid mistake here so you don't do the same thing. When you remove those metal castings DON'T drop them! I did and busted a small bit of the chrome trim off the edge! Now what saved me is this chrome trim can be removed from the panel. So you can purchase ANY kind of wood panel and swap it over. I was sweating bullets as I have the CF trim which is almost impossible to find used and the factory price was astoundingly high! You just need a panel from that particular door.
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I believe I have this same problem. The veneer on the driver's door in my car rattles when music is played even at a medium/low level. I tested this myself the last time I heard the rattling. If I light placed on finger on the veneer the rattling stopped. I took it into the dealership and they replaced the door panel. 2 weeks later, the rattling started again. We are now waiting for another part to be sent to the dealership.

 

Thanks so much for the photos and info! My clips arrived yesterday. When I went to remove the panel, I noticed some scratches, evidence that someone had (sloppily) been there before. Sure enough, both clips look like the damaged example you illustrated.

The new clips will not seat fully on the metal tabs without quite a bit of force, which I've not yet applied. Do I place the clips in their respective holes and press the panel in to place, or attempt to seat the clips to the panel before re-assembly?

 

Clips securely on panel BEFORE installation. Yes they are tight for a reason. I am at 54K miles and this car is still rattle and squeak free. Best car I have had yet!
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Re-assembled per your instructions. Two notes: Placing tiny squares of blue tape on the veneer side directly aligned with the tabs provide a visual clue of where to apply (substantial) seating pressure. Examined the lower edge of the removed panel and found dreaded sticky button residue in two places. Cleaned from both panel and door card assembly before re-installing panel. Cool weather today postpones declaring victory, but we'll have a few scorchers remaining in 2022.

Thanks again for your assistance. I suspect the two white clips were intended to be single-use only, and removal of the trim panel for any reason necessitates replacing clips.

Did you notice all the witness marks on the reverse of the panel?! Must be a dozen initials and handwritten symbols there. I'm sure most relate to the veneer and its finishing, but impressive QC nonetheless.

 

Yes a quality part and many QC markings too.
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UPDATE - we found the source of the problem and it had NOTHING to do with the fit and finish of the door. That being said, my car is perfect!

 

I guess the cause was your loose change rattling around. If that is not the cause, what was it?

 

I had this problem on my xkr 2011 after it was serviced at Indy , drove me nuts , even took the car back a week later got door car removed and put back on , Still it persisted . I swore it was the the frame that got twisted due to it get rammed up in the air , cured it by spraying down the window slit and every thing else leather included with linthium grease , gone and never came back

 

Too bad he fixed it but left us all hanging??
Can you post back what your problem was and how you fixed it?
Sure would help the next guy!
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Sorry I didn't mean to leave you all hanging (holidays). I'm going to the shop at the end of the week to have the issue fixed. I want to make sure this is the real source of the noise before I post it online. I promise to follow up!

 

Happy New Year Everyone.

As promised, I said I would report back on what was causing the rattling in my door. I took my car to someone who specializes in trims and aftermarket products. I told him about the issue and took him for a ride in my car to hear the noise firsthand. After some listening and some probing, he was able to tell that some of the rivets that hold the carbon fiber veneer in place were worn. He then ran his fingers across the edges of the veneer and discovered there was a significant gap at the bottom of the veneer. This separation starts near the middle of the veneer and goes all the way to where the "M" button is for the seat memory feature. From the naked eye, it looks as if everything is intact and when I probed the area myself before taking to the shop, I was unable to fill the gap until the guy at the shop showed me where to place my fingers. The bottom portion of my veneer piece is completely separated from my door panel. I asked him if he could fix it but he informed me that he didn't have the rivets needed and that it's not a "quick fix" because how Jaguar fuses the door panel and the veneer together. The Jag dealership can't fix it because they need to install a new veneer piece which has been on backorder since July (maybe longer, my order was put in in July) and there is no ETA for it. I have a feeling this part may never come since the XJ is no longer in production. I asked him if I should be worried about all of my door veneers rattling and he said it's possible for it happen just because it's Jaguar but driver's door gets the most use so those rivets would wear out the fastest. He checked the veneers on the other doors and all were solid.

The guy at my shop came up with a perfect solution. He took a thin piece of charcoal foam that still had the adhesive paper on and folded it in half. He slowly pushed the foam into the gap at the bottom on veneer until it disappeared under the veneer. He told me he left the paper on the foam so that in event the foam needed to be pulled out or replaced, the paper would be easier to grab with tweezers than the foam. I tested the door, opening, closing, lighting slamming it check to see if the foam would fall out. Nope! Then I turned on the music, no rattling. I drove around the parking lot over speed bumps and uneven pavement...no rattling, not even the creaks I used to hear at times. Bank vault solid now.

As I mention, I don't expect the part I need to ever come in because my car is no longer in production and because of the model I have, my veneer is the carbon fiber option and not a traditional wood. The foam piece is was perfect work around. I hope this helps for you all.

 

Could you post a pic of what/where you're describing?
Most XJs have a wood veneer, I haven't seen any with a carbon fiber veneer - is that an aftermarket trim piece? Or for a Super Sport package or like?
If it's genuine JLR, I would expect that it uses the same fasteners as the wood veneer panel and only differs in the veneer itself.
If it is the veneer to the panel that Baltobernie shared, why couldn't it just be bonded to the aluminum panel with some suitable adhesive? The veneer should never have to be removed from that panel.

 

The picture below shows the carbon fiber veneer. It's not aftermarket, it comes on the XJR 575 model. I put a red box over the area were my veneer is separated from the door panel. This is were my rattling noise was coming from. The red box is where he inserted the foam.


Using the photo that was uploaded to this thread, I put red squares on the pieces my auto body shop rep says are worn. I also put orange circle were I think rivets might go to but I am not certain.

 

Ohhh - that is a nice special package.
Thank you for posting the pictures to clarify the location & detail.

So it is a different place than the whole panel to the door, it's the actual veneer itself to the panel.
I can see where that's a different dragon to slay.
Very nice looking panel though!