Drivers heated seat - RESOLVED
#1
Drivers heated seat - RESOLVED
Hi All,
Just posted my intro on the welcome page.
The problem I have is with my 2012 XJ drivers heated seat (US) model. The seat does not heat, although the screen tells me it is working, the seat cools as normal. The passenger seat works as advertised.
Any ideas? Fuse/relay/module/wiring?
TIA
Wombat
Just posted my intro on the welcome page.
The problem I have is with my 2012 XJ drivers heated seat (US) model. The seat does not heat, although the screen tells me it is working, the seat cools as normal. The passenger seat works as advertised.
Any ideas? Fuse/relay/module/wiring?
TIA
Wombat
Last edited by GGG; 11-01-2019 at 04:22 AM. Reason: Add "RESOLVED" to thread title
#2
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
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Wombat, odds are, you have a failed heating element in both the seat and the back rest. This is not unheard of.to have one of these fail and it will take out the heated seat. If you want to prove this, you will need to access the driver's seat module (located under the seat) by unbolting the seat. From there you can lean the seat back to access the under side. You will then see a module with a few plugs connected to it. This will be the seat module. This is where you will need to do a little bit of investigating as the plugs are not labeled as to what they are. In the case of the seat heats the supply and the return wiring is in the #1 position of the plug. But, the supply is on plug B and the return is on plug C. Plug C will have a brown wire with a blue stripe in the #1 position and plug B will have a violet(purple) wire with a green stripe in the #1 spot. If you disconnect these 2 plugs and measure between pin 1 of both plugs, you should get a really low resistance (about 10 ohms as I recall). If you are getting anything above say 20 ohms (most likely will be in the Kohm range), then this will confirm that you have a bad heater (most likely the seat heater).
Unfortunately, the fix for this is to remove the seat cover and install a new heater assembly. If you are handy with a soldering iron, you can sometimes fix the open spot by finding the burn mark in the white cover the heater is in and then adding a jumper wire across this open. But ,this will take some work on your part to figure out which of the dark spots is your open as you may have multiple dark spots. Granted, if you have the seat apart, you may want to add a jumper to all the dark spots as they are starting to fail and will be failed here in the near future.
If you need more info, let me know.
Unfortunately, the fix for this is to remove the seat cover and install a new heater assembly. If you are handy with a soldering iron, you can sometimes fix the open spot by finding the burn mark in the white cover the heater is in and then adding a jumper wire across this open. But ,this will take some work on your part to figure out which of the dark spots is your open as you may have multiple dark spots. Granted, if you have the seat apart, you may want to add a jumper to all the dark spots as they are starting to fail and will be failed here in the near future.
If you need more info, let me know.
The following 2 users liked this post by Thermo:
mikebaker3 (11-03-2019),
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#3
#4
Thermo,
Just a quick update on my problem. I pulled the heat/cool module from under the drivers seat and couldn't find any problems with it. I then swapped it for the passenger module and well, you guessed it, both seats work as advertised! I guess there was a weak connection at one of the pins.
I did disconnect the battery prior to starting the job,,,,I just hate being around live explosives! After doing the window and e-brake resets, the car sorted it's self out after a 10min drive.
Thanks again for all your help,
Wombat
Just a quick update on my problem. I pulled the heat/cool module from under the drivers seat and couldn't find any problems with it. I then swapped it for the passenger module and well, you guessed it, both seats work as advertised! I guess there was a weak connection at one of the pins.
I did disconnect the battery prior to starting the job,,,,I just hate being around live explosives! After doing the window and e-brake resets, the car sorted it's self out after a 10min drive.
Thanks again for all your help,
Wombat
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#5
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mikebaker3 (11-03-2019),
Randy Mounts (11-06-2019)
#6
Thermo,
Just a quick update on my problem. I pulled the heat/cool module from under the drivers seat and couldn't find any problems with it. I then swapped it for the passenger module and well, you guessed it, both seats work as advertised! I guess there was a weak connection at one of the pins.
I did disconnect the battery prior to starting the job,,,,I just hate being around live explosives! After doing the window and e-brake resets, the car sorted it's self out after a 10min drive.
Thanks again for all your help,
Wombat
Just a quick update on my problem. I pulled the heat/cool module from under the drivers seat and couldn't find any problems with it. I then swapped it for the passenger module and well, you guessed it, both seats work as advertised! I guess there was a weak connection at one of the pins.
I did disconnect the battery prior to starting the job,,,,I just hate being around live explosives! After doing the window and e-brake resets, the car sorted it's self out after a 10min drive.
Thanks again for all your help,
Wombat
Hi still learning. what is the window reset?? i had done the e-brake. but not window
thanks
#7
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Randy, close the window by holding the button until it reaches full shut. Release the button as soon as it reaches full shut. After a moment, attempt to raise/close the window (yes, it is already shut). Hold the button up for 3 seconds (should hear a faint audible click after about 2 seconds). Release the switch. Now, hold the button in the down direction and let the window go all the way closed. Keep holding the switch down for 3 seconds after the window stops moving (again, should hear a faint click after about 2 seconds). Pull up on the window switch momentarily and the window should go full shut. If you momentarily go down on the button, the window should go full open. You will then need to repeat this process for each window.
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#8
Randy, close the window by holding the button until it reaches full shut. Release the button as soon as it reaches full shut. After a moment, attempt to raise/close the window (yes, it is already shut). Hold the button up for 3 seconds (should hear a faint audible click after about 2 seconds). Release the switch. Now, hold the button in the down direction and let the window go all the way closed. Keep holding the switch down for 3 seconds after the window stops moving (again, should hear a faint click after about 2 seconds). Pull up on the window switch momentarily and the window should go full shut. If you momentarily go down on the button, the window should go full open. You will then need to repeat this process for each window.
outstanding. Thanks. I will do. Have a great day
#9
OK, update 2!
Driving around today in Chicago, it was 10F, and my wife started complaining that her seat had stopped getting hot/warm.
If you remember, I'd swapped the passenger and driver modules and both seats were working. I could only conclude that the module that had been powering the drivers seat, was now causing my wife to rant as it had gone bad again.
So, the OEM Jag part (C2D26815) runs at about $230. However, it also carries a FoMoCo tag. I did some cross checking using the additional code of 14B663BA and found the Ford part that fits numerous cars in the Ford line-up.
The full Ford code is GU5Z-14B663-BA. The only code difference is in the first 4 digits, on the "Jaguar" part it is AW93-14B663-BA (They tell the maker in Mexico where to send the part). All the connectors, pin counts and other identifying markings are identical.
Oh, the cost of the new "Ford" part..$72 inc shipping.
I'll let you know if it works!!
Wombat
Driving around today in Chicago, it was 10F, and my wife started complaining that her seat had stopped getting hot/warm.
If you remember, I'd swapped the passenger and driver modules and both seats were working. I could only conclude that the module that had been powering the drivers seat, was now causing my wife to rant as it had gone bad again.
So, the OEM Jag part (C2D26815) runs at about $230. However, it also carries a FoMoCo tag. I did some cross checking using the additional code of 14B663BA and found the Ford part that fits numerous cars in the Ford line-up.
The full Ford code is GU5Z-14B663-BA. The only code difference is in the first 4 digits, on the "Jaguar" part it is AW93-14B663-BA (They tell the maker in Mexico where to send the part). All the connectors, pin counts and other identifying markings are identical.
Oh, the cost of the new "Ford" part..$72 inc shipping.
I'll let you know if it works!!
Wombat
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Nedoerr (11-16-2019)
#10
#11
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Randy Mounts (11-15-2019)
#13
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#14
Help with same issue.
so apparently, both my drivers side seat heater and seat cooler are not working properly.
I can confirm that the passenger side works great both cooling and heating as expected.
When I turn the drivers side on(does the same regardless cool or heat) it seems to work properly for 60-90 seconds before I hear the fan stop, and a “clicking” sound, almost like a metronome under the passenger seat.
I tried turning off the seat bottom(zone) to try to isolate it to an issues with that particular section—but it seems to do the same thing regardless.
wombat—is this what yours was doing?
any clicking sound?
Can anyone else chime in?
i don’t want to have to pay Jaguar $198 to diagnose, plus the parts...
thanks for the help.
I can confirm that the passenger side works great both cooling and heating as expected.
When I turn the drivers side on(does the same regardless cool or heat) it seems to work properly for 60-90 seconds before I hear the fan stop, and a “clicking” sound, almost like a metronome under the passenger seat.
I tried turning off the seat bottom(zone) to try to isolate it to an issues with that particular section—but it seems to do the same thing regardless.
wombat—is this what yours was doing?
any clicking sound?
Can anyone else chime in?
i don’t want to have to pay Jaguar $198 to diagnose, plus the parts...
thanks for the help.
#16
DPXF5.0SC,
I fairly sure that I didn't hear anything from my seat prior to the failure. It seemed to be working fine and then the next time I tried it didn't. Please remember, I recently moved from San Diego where, as you can guess, seat heaters are....pointless! Throughout whole process, the cooling function worked perfectly.
PS. I think the XF/XJ share the same module. The final AA/AB/AC/AD codes are important.
Hope that helps,
wombat
I fairly sure that I didn't hear anything from my seat prior to the failure. It seemed to be working fine and then the next time I tried it didn't. Please remember, I recently moved from San Diego where, as you can guess, seat heaters are....pointless! Throughout whole process, the cooling function worked perfectly.
PS. I think the XF/XJ share the same module. The final AA/AB/AC/AD codes are important.
Hope that helps,
wombat
#17
Thermo,
Just a quick update on my problem. I pulled the heat/cool module from under the drivers seat and couldn't find any problems with it. I then swapped it for the passenger module and well, you guessed it, both seats work as advertised! I guess there was a weak connection at one of the pins.
I did disconnect the battery prior to starting the job,,,,I just hate being around live explosives! After doing the window and e-brake resets, the car sorted it's self out after a 10min drive.
Thanks again for all your help,
Wombat
Just a quick update on my problem. I pulled the heat/cool module from under the drivers seat and couldn't find any problems with it. I then swapped it for the passenger module and well, you guessed it, both seats work as advertised! I guess there was a weak connection at one of the pins.
I did disconnect the battery prior to starting the job,,,,I just hate being around live explosives! After doing the window and e-brake resets, the car sorted it's self out after a 10min drive.
Thanks again for all your help,
Wombat
Thankyou
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Timothy Geyer (09-17-2023)
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