My 2011 XF 5.0 S/C lease is coming up. I love the car, 39,000 miles with 0 problems. I would get another, but It appears Jaguar does not support with good lease programs on any V8 cars anymore these days. If I'm "forced to downgrade" to the 3.0 AWD (which has good jaguar lease support, with factory cash, early lease termination $$ and low rates, etc.) I would like to compensate by going 'at least' with an XJ.
My preference is the SWB portfolio, but to my surprise, again the factory has better deals on the LWB, as it seems most dealers inventory is LWB cars. So the XJL portfolio is cheaper to lease than the XJ portfolio, even though the MSRP is almost $4K higher
Any noticeable driving dynamic differences - ride, handling, responsiveness, other, between the SWB and the LWB??

 

yidal, the L is going to handle bumps a little better only because you have more car to spread the bumps out over. While there is only like 8" difference between the two, you may also find turning the L is going to require a bit more wheel and trying to park the car may be a bit more challenging. You wouldn't think that 8" would make that big of a difference, but it can. I would say to take the 2 out for a ride (SWB and LWB) and do a direct comparison. I have no problem with the longer wheel base cars as I am used to driving trucks and whatnot. But, if you are not used to larger vehicles, it can be something to get used to. I think the big thing that will help with your decision is trying to back the car into a parking spot. That will probably be the hardest thing to do and if you don't find it much different, then I would go with the L and be happy. Your passengers will love you for the L.

 

One reviewer reported the SWB model XJ was overly responsive when executing quick maneuvers, but the XJL was less so due to its longer wheelbase and more equal front/rear weight distribution. This may be due to the fact the LWB XJL was the original design Jaguar developed for its target markets (U.S., Asian, Arab, and luxury European), and the XJ model was a shortened version of it for their "secondary" markets, whereas most cars are originally designed with a "standard" wheelbase for high volume markets which is then "stretched" for lower production premium market models. The XJL, being 5 inches longer, does takes more garage space, is harder to parallel park or execute an "U" turn with, but it does offer superior ride, rear passenger space and features, and super-sleek styling.

 

The ride is indeed better with the LWB. Been driving the LWB after a SWB XJ for approx. 3 months now.

 

Traded up from an 11' XF SC to an 12' XJL Portfolio 5.0. I feel its the best of both ride and performance. The difference is more the drive train in your case. The V6 3.0 SC with stop/start transmission verse a 5.0 NA or 5.0 SC. The aluminum XJL considerably lightens the car verses the XF-SC which I feel compensates nicely with the 5.0 drive train, so I went from a super fast car to a more luxurious very very fast car. Straight line performance is usually how we predominately drive in the USA, it's super looking in the long wheel base since it was designed that way, not a stretched standard length. The standard version XJ is actually a chopped version.

So the biggest issue is how you like the 3.0 SC drive train. I would say once you drive a 5.0 in any form, the XJL 3.0 SC will seem to be a fabulous car with a average engine. This seems to be the case with the F Type, the V-6 versions sit on the lot and the V-8's are gone. When you are paying that amount of money for a car, the V-6 isn't what most people want. I had no second thoughts about the long wheel base, but I'm glade I bought the last 5.0 version after driving the 3.0.

 

Jaguar apparently realizes the 5.0L V8, be it N/A or S/C, doesn't address future market trends as well as the 3.0L supercharged V6 AWD with its start/stop engine. The latter is more suitable for those living in the snow-belt or Canada and delivers superior MPG, which is becoming increasingly important since premium gasoline is now above $4.00/gal and heading North as many oil producing countries implode into religious/tribal warfare, and political divisions in the USA prevent us from becoming more energy self-sufficient. The SWB XJ simply doesn't sell as well as the LWB XJL because it doesn't handle as well, ride as comfortably, provide rear seat passengers with added room and features, and comes up "short" of the knock-dead gorgeous styling of the "L" version.

 

[QUOTE becoming increasingly important since premium gasoline is now above $4.00/gal and heading North [/QUOTE]


Petrol over here in the UK is the equivalent to just over $10 an imperial gallon !!!


My Diesel 3.0 twin turbo can get over 40mpg if sensible but still does about 36 mpg when you drive it quicker !
It still hits 60mph in 6 seconds ant is limited at 155., The mid range pull is amazing.

 

Petrol over here in the UK is the equivalent to just over $10 an imperial gallon !!!
[/QUOTE]

True, but do keep in mind the size of our contiguous 48 states (i.e. Alaska and Hawaii not included) in square area is 36 times greater than the square area of Great Britain, and therefore we tend to drive much further distances. In the UK you average about 6,726 miles per year where we average about 15,000 miles per year, or 2.23 times more. $4.00 per US gallon equal $4.64 per imperial gallon, and since we drive 2.23 times more miles per year that $4.64 factored by 2.23 equals the equivalent of $10.35 per imperial gallon. Thus, in fact, we both spend about the exact same amount of dollars or pounds per year to fuel our automobiles.

 

Yes, agree about the size of the USA but actually the average here per year according to when you get prices on used cars is between 10 and 12K a year, the book price of a car is based on this and when you come to exchange a car they deduct additional money from the trade in value for any excess miles over this, I guess they do the same over there, do you call it the "blue book" price or something like it ?


Personally my average a year is nearer 35000 miles but I know that I am on the road a lot, just my daytime work van does about 9000 miles a year and the rest is split between the other cars.
When I got the X351 I kept the older car and if I had not, the new jaguar would have nearly 80000 miles on the clock by now as opposed to just 36k, and its only just over 3 years old. The older Jaguar covers about 14000 a year now but is brilliant as I have had it 7 1/2 years now and it only had 52000 miles when I got it and its now on 203000, wonderful motor.
I am the sole driver of all of them and I guess I spend around £6000 a year on fuel which does hurt.
If you drive a 4WD or large petrol engine car over here you have to pay a road fund tax of £480 a year on top of all fuel costs, the diesel Jaguar costs £280 a year, the government seem to be trying their hardest to hit the motorist in the pocket !!!


Agree about the LWB appearance, I have so many people say what a fab looking car it is, I also think the profile looks so right whereas the SWB looks out of proportion.
With the X350 you could see that the designers started with a SWB and then stretched it.

 

https://www.gov.uk/government/.../nts2012-01.pdf
United Kingdom
Jul 30, 2013 - In 2012, the average distance travelled was 6,691 miles

 

I'm the OP. Decided to stay with XF. Dealer taking my 2011 5.0 S/C lease 6 months early, 39,000 miles (with ECU tune- some lucky guy/gal will enjoy her......) and picking up in a couple of days a new 3.0 AWD, premium, portfolio, cold weather, split rear seat, ultimate black on London tan, jet headliner. Probably will get ECU tune after 3-4K miles.
This will be my 3rd XF.

 

What differentiates an "ECU tune" from hundreds, if not thousands of other fake gizmos that have been offered by con-artists for over one-hundred years promising to improve the performance of automobiles? Does an ECU "tune" void the original manufactures warranty, and if so why? Has any independent reviewer (i.e. a reputable automobile magazine) ever documented the actual performance gains promised by a "tune"? What guarantee do you have that if a ECU "tune" causes your engine to fail prematurely, that the purveyor of such a device will repair your engine at no cost to you? Just curious.

 

John, the manufacturers are against tunes in any engine because the motor is being put into a different set of parameters that the manufacturers do not control. yes, the new tune may be more conservative, but the manufacturers do not care as they make things simple by lumping everything into 1 of 2 things (stock or not stock). As a general rule, most tunes are created to make more power, which pushes things closer to a limit. I liken it to you driving in front of me and I have an overloaded trailer attached to my truck. You brake but I don't have the stopping power to miss you. So, I rear end your car and when we talk, I say, "It isn't my fault that my truck couldn't stop, it is all this extra weight on the trailer that made it so I couldn't stop". Wouldn't you still expect me to fix your vehicle? The manufacturer is now the lead car and you are the guy in the truck (but you have simply modified your vehicle to make more power). Is it the manufacturers problem or your problem?

With that being said, some tuners will claim that if damage is done to your engine, they will fix it or they claim "will not void manufacturer's warrantee". Watch what happens if you try and make a claim. The OEM is going to deny your request to have them fix the problem and the tuner is going to give you the run around because "not our problem as it doesn't violate the warrantee". Meanwhile, you are still without a vehicle. This has gotten to be extremely common with the full size trucks with diesels. Something as simple as a new muffler that is not from the OEM can violate the warrantee as the OEM sees it. Sure, there is a law that says that the OEM has to prove the modification caused the problem. But, they tie you up in court for months, if not longer and meanwhile, you are without your vehicle and you stand a chance of loosing the battle because of their high priced lawyers.

Not saying it is right or wrong. It is all situational. Just pointing out what the current trend is.

 

You are thinking of going from a 5.0 to 3.0 and RWD to AWR.
"Don't do it"
If there is any speed in you, you won't be happy.
You can to test yourself? Drive around for a day in the 3.0 and
then you can answer your own question.
My loaner car is generally a XF 385hp.I only have it for a day but, In a word 'terrible'.
It like sitting in leather seats and then changing them for burlap.

 

I created an account to like this post. You put the distance over cost average perfectly and it is the best explanation that I've seen .

Just about to buy an XJ. I had a Supercharged XE before.

 

Go for the petrol version , the diesels are full of problems . mine a very rare petrol autobiography model is so smooth yet has the power to get you into or out of trouble

 

I would have loved to have picked up a petrol option and I did see one that was in budget. I was toying with the idea though the tax at £630 and the fuel cost put me off. I picked up the car today and I love it.

It's pulling to the left a little when driving so I have it booked in tomorrow to be looked at. I think it's more than alignment though I have budgeted to get this sorted.

Awesome car though, a 2014 - LWB. First car I've had with massaging seats

 

So you bought a diesel . The euro5 engine is good and don't have as many problems as the euro6 diesel from 65 - on , can give you a tip , every now and then add some whynns DPF cleaner to every second or third tank full , It lower s the burn off temp from the DPF from 1200 C to 600C so doing short journeys it should regenerate, good luck with the car but in the long term you will have problems , diesel jaguars and land rovers are full of them

 

I don´t agree on that. At least Euro 5 engine. I have now 294tkm (184t miles) on clock on my y2010 3.0l Diesel without any problems on it. It is in my daily drive allaround the year, including Finnish freezing winter.
Last May, on MOT test the exhaust smoke value was still 0. One solenoid have failed from engine bay in history of this vehicle (boost by-pass valve)
It even still have original waterpump (sorry, turning the knife ) Original DPF:s, injectors, sensors, intake manifolds... all.. (exept cam belt and rollers)

 

Actually the SWB is a better balanced car. I know I weighed mine and both axles independently. I was impressed how close to 50/50 it was too. Car carries 50.9% of it's weight on the front steering axle. That's a very well balanced car for sure.

Here is a thread about my dyno results and a certified scale weighing the car.
XJ Weight
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