Hello. My 2011 Xj supercharged was overheating. Realized the fan is not turning on. When she gets hot and i turn the ac on....the fan will not cycle for either. I changed the 10amp fuse for the fan and the coolant temp sensor in the thermostat housing. No luck. Pretty sure its the fan at this point. Considering there is no relay and the controls are internal on this fan. One other guy on here said change the 100amp midi fuse in the fuse box held down by the 10mm nuts......no sir.....that will only pop if you try to jump your Jag from there. I know

 

JagNation, if you look down near the fan, you should see a pretty good size plug feeding power to the fan. There should be 3 wires in that plug. There should be a black wire, a blue wire with an orange stripe, and a violet wire. If you take a multimeter and measure the black wire to chassis ground, you should get 12 VDC at all times. If you measure the blue wire with an orange stripe, with the engine off, you should get 0 VDC, car with the engine running should be 12 VDC. If you do not get the 12 VDC, then check fuse F-31 in the engine bay fuse box. If that is good or you replace the fuse and the fan still will not come on, then look at the top of the fuse and find the 2 small silver posts in the top of the fuse. Measure between each of those posts (1 at a time) to chassis ground. If you only get 12 VDC on 1 of the 2 posts, the fuse is bad and something is popping the fuse (most likely the fan module), if you have 12 VDC on both, then again it is most likely the fan module that is bad. If you have 0 VDC on both, then you have a bad micro relay A (relay R7 in the engine bay fuse box).

If both the black and the blue-orange wires are good, then measure the violet wire to chassis ground. For this check, put the A/C on lowest temp it will go, the fan on high. This will force the fan to run. If you get 12 VDC, then your fan controller is bad. If you are getting something near 0 VDC, then you either have an open in the violet wire between where you are measuring and the ECU or the ECU is failing and this is your first symptom.

Hope this helps.

 

Thank you for your time. Bought the new fan yesterday. Will be here today. I will still test the fan with your procedure. Noticed the last couple days before it went out that the fan was running extremely loud on high. Didnt think anything of it. Love my Jags....but this x351 has given me more problems then anything in this world! Damn near every coolant pipe, hose and sensor related...bmc problems... agm upgrade.. lights go out at turns. Pulled the blown supercharger for a rebuild...the heads blew on me....pretty sure the block is done....ran some BARS STOP through her....fixed rather quickly. Love her to death though.

 

Ohh dear... There seems to be some variables on quality. I have 2010 3.0 diesel, 310t km (185t mil) on clock and only items changed on engine bay (excluding oil/filters) are timing and auxilary belts with rollers and one solenoid actuator. I have lost count of brake jobs (3-4?), but underside i have changed one wheel bearing, 2 rear suspension parts (one because of failed rubber cover, one because of nerd wrecking creeks) and i am on my 3rd set of front "banana arms". (i think the quality of these have been improved, since i made the change based on kilometers and found out that the one i took out were still stiff and Ok) Outside of normal services i have spent well under 1500USD for fixing my x351 in whole history. (i can DIY)

 

Bad idea to use Bars stop leak. It will come back and bite you!
Miracle in a can!
Much better to fix the leak correctly.
.
.
.

 

We've tried a couple of Bar's Leak products and other quick fixes for one of our 5.0L engines, and unfortunately none of them helped.
As Clubairth1 declares, there is no substitute for the true repair, at least not in my case, and God knows I've tried otherwise.
One of these days I'll get around to tearing into the engine to replace head gaskets & while I'm there, replace the timing chain guides & tensioners. But until then, I just keep an eye on the cooling system & try to relieve excess pressure after long drives for the situation with one of our 5.0L engines.

If any of them work for your situation, you're very fortunate; but then there are possibilities and risks of it interfering with flow in other areas where it's supposed to flow especially in the heater plumbing or transmission cooler including bottom end of the radiator.
So if you do try any, be sure to carefully maintain your coolant system to avoid having any clog-up any other places within the cooling & heating system.