Thought I would post this, for anyone interested. Just replaced both front door subs with Pioneer 8” short throw subs. Worked great, will probably do the same with the rear door subs. Wired them at 4 ohms, so clear and booming... Install was a breeze, no template needed... Attached are some pics.

Gregg Smith

 

Please,Please replace those terrible twist caps and use proper connections!
I only solder and heat shrink tubing wiring connections.
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The best way is adhesive heat shrink crimped butt connectors.

Twist locks should only be used for solid wires, and in an environment with no vibration, ie a house. Not for multi-strand wiring anywhere, and not in a car (or boat, or aeroplane) where there is vibration.

Same goes for soldering, not to be used where there is vibration as it is brittle and will ultimately snap.

I have a sailboat, so I do all auto wiring to ABYC marine standards. You can do crimped connections, and add adhesive heat shrink, or simply use ones with adhesive heat shrink already installed.

https://www.wholesalemarine.com/anco...ors-38080.html

 

Well I have soldered and heat shrink tubing for over 40 years with 0 failures!
The only reason factories crimp is because of cost/time. It's merely cheaper and faster. It is NOT better.

It's an old wives tale of brittle solder and cracking. I have never,ever seen this. I have seen dozens of failed crimped connectors. Factory and home made.
Repair it how you want but I don't have failures with my repairs.

Here's NASA's take?

GUIDELINES TO FOLLOW FOR SOLDERING ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS Soldered electrical connections must perform reliably under such conditions as vibration,vacuum, radiation, thermal cycling, and shock. General principles of assuring and controlling reliable connections are: proper design, control of tools, material, and work environments; and good workmanship by trained personnel. Some general factors and rules controlling reliability can be found in NASA-STD-8739.3, paragraph 4.3

Take a look;

NASA Soldering
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I’ll drop two trannies and six water pumps before those caps come off, not too concerned.

 

I was going to mention that as well. You are only going to have brittle and cracking solder joints, if the original solder connection wasn't done well. Right after I retired from the Army, I worked for NASA for a little while. We had to get certified in soldering. It was to a higher standard than what we had to certify for in the Army. We had to certify to the same standard as if we were soldering on the Space Shuttle. The main difference was a very strict adherence to the amount of solder(because of weight).

That being said, I prefer twist locks. The reason I prefer them, is because they are easy to install, and easy to remove when doing upgrades or troubleshooting components in the system. For example, when I added amps to my XJL, I accidentlly had the right and left side connections reversed(I actually thing the wiring diagram is incorrect, but I haven't verified that yet). It would have been more of a pain in the *** to correct my mistake if I had soldered those connections.

 

Cool, just be aware that the bass speakers in the rear doors are 165mm, smaller than the 200mm ones in the front doors.

 

I just installed these subs in my 2012 and they fit well with added fender washers.

I thought I'd add some insight about the wiring.

The wiring for the stock subwoofer is identically sized and color wires--two black wires with no indicator of positive or negative on the wiring or the speaker. At some point between the amp and the speaker the wires transition from typical color coded wires to plain black--I don't know why. But on the stock sub it doesn't matter because the stock connector only connects one way.

But you cut this connector off to install an aftermarket speaker. Thus, you need to determine which wire is positive and which is negative. Two ways to do this: Remove the stock speaker but BEFORE you cut off the stock connector, take a AA battery and connect two wires to positive and negative side and then connect the wires to the stock speaker. Touch wire to each contact and when the speaker cone moves out thats the positive side (search web for testing speaker polarity if my explanation doesn't make sense). Once you've discovered the positive side mark note the way the connector plugs in and mark that wire.

The other way is to go to trunk and remove driver side trunk carpet and unplug the connectors from the amp. Then connect a wire to the speaker wiring in the trunk (I think front left positive is white/violet and right side is white but reference wiring diagram) and then measure for continuity between door and trunk wiring.

 

wiring diagram for x351

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Elec...20-%20X351.pdf

 

It works with a AA battery? I didn't know that. I have always used a 9 Volt battery. I thought they always said 9 volt battery because it required at least 9 volts to get any static.
My XJL didn't come with a sub, so I tapped into the sub outputs from the OEM amplifier, fed them to an Audio Control LCi7, then into aftermarket amps, then finally to the new sub and speakers. Didn't need to find the wires, because I had the wiring diagram for the amp outputs.

 

That is correct about amp wiring in the trunk--it is typical color coded wire. For some reason it changes to plain black wiring somewhere before it enters the door (I unwrapped a few sections while I had my door panels off).

And I'm referring to the stock 8" subwoofers that are mounted in the front doors (though I also called them speakers in above post)

 

I’ve just picked up a 2012 XJ SC with the B&W 1200 system. The front passenger door sub is blown. I was looking at Crutchfield and the above Pioneer TS-SW2002D2. looks to be discontinued. And if I am reading the OP correct, it was a dual 2 ohm voice coil that he wired in series for 4 ohm. Looks like there’s a close match with the Kicker 48CWRT82. I also see a 4 ohm shallow 8” Polk Audio DB 842 SVC that’s priced well though it’s deeper than the others. Does anyone know the max top mount depth?

 

I went with the Jaguar Kevlar drivers from the reference system. They drop right in and I found them to sound much better to me.
We have a long thread on doing this with part numbers. I also added sound deadening pads in the doors and rear parcel shelf and the trunk.
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Thank you for posting about these subs. I was on the fence because i didnkt know if it was going to fit.

I Took out the old sub, Hookup up this one, and I have no sound. I wired it both ways. What did I do wrong?

 

can you point me to the audio upgrade thread? I can’t find it. Thanks!

 

Yes sorry I did not do it before! I tend to watch the F-Type forum as those guys seem more DIY and post more mods too.
This is a large thread but contains good info including ALL the factory part numbers needed.
Stock Speaker Upgrade

I only changed the large 200mm woofers to the Kevlar Reference ones.
To save you some time I will post this. Meridian Signature #2CD24863 is the part number for the 200mm Kevlar drivers. Note if you can't find these there are Land Rover part numbers too for the exact same speaker. I think they are #LR047119.

I actually ordered mine from the UK as it was cheaper than buying from the US. No VAT for US orders either but don't know if that is still available or not?
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Thank you! Any chance you have the part # for the B&W front door woofers?

I bought my car used and it has 8" Pioneer flat subs in the doors. While the bass is good, I feel it is missing some low mids and would like to replace the Pioneers with the factory B&W.

Thanks again!

 

Sorry I don't as I just changed the 200mm speakers. The thread I linked does have ALL the B&W and Meridian part numbers listed. I know that's a big dense thread too!
Surprised at how many variations Jaguar used. I figured being as small as they are it would be like the engines and transmissions. Pretty much the same stuff used across the product line.
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For anyone who is interested I have a 2010 XJ with BW audio and am in the process of installing some of these in the front doors. They are a perfect fit without modifications other than the wires.

EARTHQUAKE Sound i82SWS 8-inch Shallow Woofer System Under-the-Seat Subwoofers with Gaskets, 2-Ohm (Pair)

I have had bmws recemtly these are made for replacing the under seat bmw sub so other makes and models will be the same dimensions.