How can I fix my sunroof shade ? (
#1
#2
Both of mine were the same. First check to see if the plastic sliders are moving when you activate the button. If they are then it could be the same issue that happened to me. Basically the shade was not connected to the sliders that run back and forth on the tracks. To check this close the shade with the button, it will make weird sounds but the sliders will move all the way, then physically pull the shade out as far as you can. Then push the shade open button. You will feel the plastic sliders slide backward and it will force the shade back open. (Back inside the roof)
To fix it I actually opened it with the button so the plastic track sliders that are supposed to hold the sun shade bar were closed (all the way back) then I pulled the sunroof shade out with my hands about half way. I then pushed one side of the bar holding the shade towards the front of the car and one to the back of the car until the bar came free out of the tracks. I then pushed the button to bring the plastic track sliders all the way forward. I then did the reverse method with the bar to get the shade back in place, But it was now in front of the plastic track sliders, so they actually pull the bar out and shut the shade when activated. And in reverse the shade is spring loaded so it's also opens normally now too, I know this is not the correct method. But it worked really well on both of my shades and they now operate correctly, I'd use this method as a last resort. But it definitely works if that's your problem.
To fix it I actually opened it with the button so the plastic track sliders that are supposed to hold the sun shade bar were closed (all the way back) then I pulled the sunroof shade out with my hands about half way. I then pushed one side of the bar holding the shade towards the front of the car and one to the back of the car until the bar came free out of the tracks. I then pushed the button to bring the plastic track sliders all the way forward. I then did the reverse method with the bar to get the shade back in place, But it was now in front of the plastic track sliders, so they actually pull the bar out and shut the shade when activated. And in reverse the shade is spring loaded so it's also opens normally now too, I know this is not the correct method. But it worked really well on both of my shades and they now operate correctly, I'd use this method as a last resort. But it definitely works if that's your problem.
The following users liked this post:
Phil Davies (04-13-2021)
#4
It's very hard to explain and I didn't take pics. But you can force the bar holding the opening side of screen into the middle of the opening. And push one side of the bar open and one side of it closed so it will come out of the tracks and hang into the car. (The whole screen and bar will now be hanging into the car. Then move the sliders back and forth with the button until you know that they are fully retracted, then take the hanging shade bar and put it back into the tracks.
It should be spring loaded and now that it's in front of the sliders it will open. And also close with the spring as it retracts the screen back inside the roof.
If you go look at the screen and play with it a bit you might be able to understand what I'm explaining. It was very easy to do,
And again, this is only the fox if the screen is stuck, but the sliders are still moving when you activate the switches.
It should be spring loaded and now that it's in front of the sliders it will open. And also close with the spring as it retracts the screen back inside the roof.
If you go look at the screen and play with it a bit you might be able to understand what I'm explaining. It was very easy to do,
And again, this is only the fox if the screen is stuck, but the sliders are still moving when you activate the switches.
#5
Mr
I've got a 2010 XJ jaguar portfolio. & the battery went really flat not 1amp of power had AA out charge it up. & when I come to used my Sunroof.
It wouldn't work, nothing from it. Sunroof /2 blinds...
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I've to to reset it, but that doesn't work..
Many thanks Phil...
#6
My sunroof won't work at all. Blinds etc
I've got a 2010 XJ jaguar portfolio. & the battery went really flat not 1amp of power had AA out charge it up. & when I come to used my Sunroof.
It wouldn't work, nothing from it. Sunroof /2 blinds...
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I've to to reset it, but that doesn't work..
Many thanks Phil...
I've got a 2010 XJ jaguar portfolio. & the battery went really flat not 1amp of power had AA out charge it up. & when I come to used my Sunroof.
It wouldn't work, nothing from it. Sunroof /2 blinds...
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I've to to reset it, but that doesn't work..
Many thanks Phil...
Did you find a solution to your sunshade issue?
I also ended up with a battery outage and the exact same issue with Sunshade. I've tried reset but no luck. I am guessing with the lock down and very limited driving a lot of people would potentially face similar issue!! Have you tried the below reset procedure posted by ExpatJag?
Action:
Once the power supply is restored reset the roof mechanism as follows:
· Switch the ignition on and start the vehicle, making sure the vehicle voltage is (13 – 15.5Volts) & ambient temperature is 5 – 40 deg C (41 – 104 deg F) i.e. inside workshop allowing the vehicle to cool down if the vehicle as been in the sun
· Requirements upon initialization
· Fully close the roof.
· Press the front of the roof switch, and hold for 45 seconds.
· After 45 seconds the roof will begin to move. Keep the front of the switch pressed until the roof and the roof blinds have fully opened, then closed.
· Once the open/close cycle has completed and the roof has stopped moving, release the switch.
· The roof can now be operated as normal.
Saj
The following 2 users liked this post by sajith koya:
BobDouglas69 (05-28-2024),
edobernig (05-27-2020)
#8
I know of two common issues that could cause this.
The plastic sliders that phillyS1 mentioned in the original replies is one. It is really hard to explain without you actually having the car in front of you though. The blinds move by rotating a long flexible spring that acts on a plastic runner at each end of the blind draw bar a bit like a ball screw in operation. The rotating spring is hidden along either edge and the plastic runners clip into a small slot on each edge. If you fully open the blind and look in the those slots you should see the small black plastic sliders that mate with the rotating spring. The black plastic runner is longer, and has a tooth that clips into that other piece inside the slot, and pushes into the end of the blind draw bar (so you'll only see part of it). If those two are not clipped together, the blind wont move. If only one side is out the blind will try and move on the other and quickly bind/jam. This is easy to fix just by moving the front seats back to get access and poking your head out through the open sunroof. A sign it may not be clipped securely is if you can wobble the front of the blind up and down.
The other issue should only affect the earlier cars (I think pre 2013 ish - I can lookup the TSB again if you need it), and is where the motor that drives the rotating springs on the left side of the car wears down a plastic spacer that aligns it with the spring to the point that it slips over it when rotating. This is very obvious as you will hear a very loud clicking noise coming from just to the left of the rear roof blind, and it will continue for about 30 seconds after pressing the button in the roof console. If that is the cause, you will need to drop the headlining and remove the old motor and replace with a newer revised part that uses a metal spacer. You will need to remove and replace the entire driving spring on that side as well, which requires removing the blind entirely. It is a fairly involved process, but entirely DIY-able.
If the noise is not clear, you can tell if the runners are ok by pressing the close blind button and then evenly pulling the blind forward at about the speed it would normally move at. Then, when the motor has stopped, press the close button and see if it closes correctly but then starts clicking loudly when it reaches the closed position. If it opens correctly but then doesn't stop when it should, your motor spacer is worn.
The plastic sliders that phillyS1 mentioned in the original replies is one. It is really hard to explain without you actually having the car in front of you though. The blinds move by rotating a long flexible spring that acts on a plastic runner at each end of the blind draw bar a bit like a ball screw in operation. The rotating spring is hidden along either edge and the plastic runners clip into a small slot on each edge. If you fully open the blind and look in the those slots you should see the small black plastic sliders that mate with the rotating spring. The black plastic runner is longer, and has a tooth that clips into that other piece inside the slot, and pushes into the end of the blind draw bar (so you'll only see part of it). If those two are not clipped together, the blind wont move. If only one side is out the blind will try and move on the other and quickly bind/jam. This is easy to fix just by moving the front seats back to get access and poking your head out through the open sunroof. A sign it may not be clipped securely is if you can wobble the front of the blind up and down.
The other issue should only affect the earlier cars (I think pre 2013 ish - I can lookup the TSB again if you need it), and is where the motor that drives the rotating springs on the left side of the car wears down a plastic spacer that aligns it with the spring to the point that it slips over it when rotating. This is very obvious as you will hear a very loud clicking noise coming from just to the left of the rear roof blind, and it will continue for about 30 seconds after pressing the button in the roof console. If that is the cause, you will need to drop the headlining and remove the old motor and replace with a newer revised part that uses a metal spacer. You will need to remove and replace the entire driving spring on that side as well, which requires removing the blind entirely. It is a fairly involved process, but entirely DIY-able.
If the noise is not clear, you can tell if the runners are ok by pressing the close blind button and then evenly pulling the blind forward at about the speed it would normally move at. Then, when the motor has stopped, press the close button and see if it closes correctly but then starts clicking loudly when it reaches the closed position. If it opens correctly but then doesn't stop when it should, your motor spacer is worn.
The following 4 users liked this post by xdave:
BobDouglas69 (05-28-2024),
theoriginalbabu (03-06-2021),
user 7208023 (12-03-2021),
XJsss (03-05-2021)
#9
I know of two common issues that could cause this.
The plastic sliders that phillyS1 mentioned in the original replies is one. It is really hard to explain without you actually having the car in front of you though. The blinds move by rotating a long flexible spring that acts on a plastic runner at each end of the blind draw bar a bit like a ball screw in operation. The rotating spring is hidden along either edge and the plastic runners clip into a small slot on each edge. If you fully open the blind and look in the those slots you should see the small black plastic sliders that mate with the rotating spring. The black plastic runner is longer, and has a tooth that clips into that other piece inside the slot, and pushes into the end of the blind draw bar (so you'll only see part of it). If those two are not clipped together, the blind wont move. If only one side is out the blind will try and move on the other and quickly bind/jam. This is easy to fix just by moving the front seats back to get access and poking your head out through the open sunroof. A sign it may not be clipped securely is if you can wobble the front of the blind up and down.
The other issue should only affect the earlier cars (I think pre 2013 ish - I can lookup the TSB again if you need it), and is where the motor that drives the rotating springs on the left side of the car wears down a plastic spacer that aligns it with the spring to the point that it slips over it when rotating. This is very obvious as you will hear a very loud clicking noise coming from just to the left of the rear roof blind, and it will continue for about 30 seconds after pressing the button in the roof console. If that is the cause, you will need to drop the headlining and remove the old motor and replace with a newer revised part that uses a metal spacer. You will need to remove and replace the entire driving spring on that side as well, which requires removing the blind entirely. It is a fairly involved process, but entirely DIY-able.
If the noise is not clear, you can tell if the runners are ok by pressing the close blind button and then evenly pulling the blind forward at about the speed it would normally move at. Then, when the motor has stopped, press the close button and see if it closes correctly but then starts clicking loudly when it reaches the closed position. If it opens correctly but then doesn't stop when it should, your motor spacer is worn.
The plastic sliders that phillyS1 mentioned in the original replies is one. It is really hard to explain without you actually having the car in front of you though. The blinds move by rotating a long flexible spring that acts on a plastic runner at each end of the blind draw bar a bit like a ball screw in operation. The rotating spring is hidden along either edge and the plastic runners clip into a small slot on each edge. If you fully open the blind and look in the those slots you should see the small black plastic sliders that mate with the rotating spring. The black plastic runner is longer, and has a tooth that clips into that other piece inside the slot, and pushes into the end of the blind draw bar (so you'll only see part of it). If those two are not clipped together, the blind wont move. If only one side is out the blind will try and move on the other and quickly bind/jam. This is easy to fix just by moving the front seats back to get access and poking your head out through the open sunroof. A sign it may not be clipped securely is if you can wobble the front of the blind up and down.
The other issue should only affect the earlier cars (I think pre 2013 ish - I can lookup the TSB again if you need it), and is where the motor that drives the rotating springs on the left side of the car wears down a plastic spacer that aligns it with the spring to the point that it slips over it when rotating. This is very obvious as you will hear a very loud clicking noise coming from just to the left of the rear roof blind, and it will continue for about 30 seconds after pressing the button in the roof console. If that is the cause, you will need to drop the headlining and remove the old motor and replace with a newer revised part that uses a metal spacer. You will need to remove and replace the entire driving spring on that side as well, which requires removing the blind entirely. It is a fairly involved process, but entirely DIY-able.
If the noise is not clear, you can tell if the runners are ok by pressing the close blind button and then evenly pulling the blind forward at about the speed it would normally move at. Then, when the motor has stopped, press the close button and see if it closes correctly but then starts clicking loudly when it reaches the closed position. If it opens correctly but then doesn't stop when it should, your motor spacer is worn.
Whats the TSB # for this? Mine is making a hell of a racket when I activate the blind switch and won't budge if I try to man handle the blind whilst the motor is working. That leads me to suspect the teeth are worn on the drive spindle.
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user 7208023 (12-03-2021)
#10
XJ roof
Hi Saj ,
Tried this , and after 45 seconds the roof makes noise like it wants to move but does not , very frustrating as was hoping it would cure my problem , any further ideas would be appreciated
Regards
Jeff
Action:
Once the power supply is restored reset the roof mechanism as follows:
· Switch the ignition on and start the vehicle, making sure the vehicle voltage is (13 – 15.5Volts) & ambient temperature is 5 – 40 deg C (41 – 104 deg F) i.e. inside workshop allowing the vehicle to cool down if the vehicle as been in the sun
· Requirements upon initialization
· Fully close the roof.
· Press the front of the roof switch, and hold for 45 seconds.
· After 45 seconds the roof will begin to move. Keep the front of the switch pressed until the roof and the roof blinds have fully opened, then closed.
· Once the open/close cycle has completed and the roof has stopped moving, release the switch.
· The roof can now be operated as normal.
Saj
Tried this , and after 45 seconds the roof makes noise like it wants to move but does not , very frustrating as was hoping it would cure my problem , any further ideas would be appreciated
Regards
Jeff
Action:
Once the power supply is restored reset the roof mechanism as follows:
· Switch the ignition on and start the vehicle, making sure the vehicle voltage is (13 – 15.5Volts) & ambient temperature is 5 – 40 deg C (41 – 104 deg F) i.e. inside workshop allowing the vehicle to cool down if the vehicle as been in the sun
· Requirements upon initialization
· Fully close the roof.
· Press the front of the roof switch, and hold for 45 seconds.
· After 45 seconds the roof will begin to move. Keep the front of the switch pressed until the roof and the roof blinds have fully opened, then closed.
· Once the open/close cycle has completed and the roof has stopped moving, release the switch.
· The roof can now be operated as normal.
Saj
#11
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BobDouglas69 (05-28-2024)
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