LED lights
#5
The LED lights always come on automatically with the headlights--unfortunately, no way to turn them on separately. The "daytime running lights" feature that the dealer can turn on keeps the headlights on whenever the car is in drive to meet Canadian law. Personally I don't like driving with the headlights on during the day.
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12V Automobile LED Daytime Running Fog Light Relay Harness Controller On Off Kit | eBay
#17
You can achieve it with a single automotive relay (or one per lamp to keep the wiring simple).
The white LED strips (and amber side markers in US markets) are turned on when wire 2 to each headlamp unit is +12V*. You can relay switch this on ignition or even on vehicle wakeup to enable the LEDs. Note that you must still allow them to be operated by the position lamp switch (position I on the lighting stalk). The power draw for the side markers and the white LEDs (position markers) are embossed on the rear of the headlamp assembly - ensure that any supplying circuit is able to meet the peak current demands.
* Note that the current is monitored and the supply will be disconnected if it exceeds or drops from the expected range.
If you want the lamps to come on when the vehicle is unlocked then you can use wire 14 (the AFS motor supply) to trigger your relay. It is active while the car is unlocked, and will timeout if left unlocked. You'll need to check the total current draw with both side markers and white LED strips on to see if that circuit is also suitable for the supply (it is protected by a 5A fuse so you cannot exceed that and should aim not to exceed 2.5A for continual draw). The AFS current draw peaked at 0.9A when I tested mine, which gives you 1.6A. If that is not enough then use an inline fuse and take from the engine fuse box and ensure you use suitably rated power diodes on the AFS supply line and back to the new fuse box connection. (Remember to account for voltage drop across the diodes.)
Do not overload circuits and wiring - electrical fires can kill at the best of times, let alone with a mobile fuel tanker.
Looking at that kit you could probably make use of it, but for $13 I would want to open the box and run some tests on it before placing it in my car. It looks to be a relay in a box nothing more. You would still need to add diodes though as if you bypass the original circuit completely the system will detect a fault and shut the supply down.
Alternatively, just get in the habit of setting the lighting stalk to position I each time you drive the car. Is it that much of a hassle? The only difference is that the rear position lamps will also come on during the daytime.
The white LED strips (and amber side markers in US markets) are turned on when wire 2 to each headlamp unit is +12V*. You can relay switch this on ignition or even on vehicle wakeup to enable the LEDs. Note that you must still allow them to be operated by the position lamp switch (position I on the lighting stalk). The power draw for the side markers and the white LEDs (position markers) are embossed on the rear of the headlamp assembly - ensure that any supplying circuit is able to meet the peak current demands.
* Note that the current is monitored and the supply will be disconnected if it exceeds or drops from the expected range.
If you want the lamps to come on when the vehicle is unlocked then you can use wire 14 (the AFS motor supply) to trigger your relay. It is active while the car is unlocked, and will timeout if left unlocked. You'll need to check the total current draw with both side markers and white LED strips on to see if that circuit is also suitable for the supply (it is protected by a 5A fuse so you cannot exceed that and should aim not to exceed 2.5A for continual draw). The AFS current draw peaked at 0.9A when I tested mine, which gives you 1.6A. If that is not enough then use an inline fuse and take from the engine fuse box and ensure you use suitably rated power diodes on the AFS supply line and back to the new fuse box connection. (Remember to account for voltage drop across the diodes.)
Do not overload circuits and wiring - electrical fires can kill at the best of times, let alone with a mobile fuel tanker.
Looking at that kit you could probably make use of it, but for $13 I would want to open the box and run some tests on it before placing it in my car. It looks to be a relay in a box nothing more. You would still need to add diodes though as if you bypass the original circuit completely the system will detect a fault and shut the supply down.
Alternatively, just get in the habit of setting the lighting stalk to position I each time you drive the car. Is it that much of a hassle? The only difference is that the rear position lamps will also come on during the daytime.
Last edited by xdave; 11-14-2016 at 04:35 AM.
#18
Can I just leave the lights in position one without draining the battery or other adverse impact?
#20
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