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Wow, not even an email to discuss.
additional shipping charges and see if iI still wanted speakers. they just sent an email informing of the additional shipping charges and dont even know if they credited the normal 5lb flat rate. I'm doing a chargeback on my credit card
Hey Soviet I forgot what all you planned to do? Can you post what you replaced?
I "think" you did the 200mm front doors, the 165mm rear doors and the rear deck 200mm speakers. All upgraded to the Kevlar drivers?
Since I mistakenly ordered 4 of the 200mm units I might do the rear deck too but I have seen in other threads that is a VERY difficult area to work?
Getting the rear package shelf in and out is a tough job.
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I got the four pack and did the two front doors and swapped out the rear decks. Haven't done the two rear 165's yet.
The front doors were simple enough. I took the door skin off, and then the weather seal, and did sound deading insulation in each of the four doors. This made such a huge difference. I did somehow mess up the locks, which considering I've done this before, I don't know what I did wrong. I need to take the doors apart and check it out again, as right now none of the doors lock.
As for the rear deck....
First you have to take the C pillars out. This isn't too difficult, but that also means you have to disconnect the seat belts so you can feed them through. You can do this after you remove the rear bottom seat cushion. There's two giant bolts that you'll undoubtedly have to get a new socket head extension for.
After that, pull down on two straps to allow the rear seat to fall. Easy enough. Two 10mm bolts on each side of the rear deck. Three plastic screw clamps. The whole thing lifts up as the the thing that the three plastic screw clamps attach to sits on a rail that has a special slot for the deck to sit on. We'll come back to this.
Once you get it out and disconnect all the wires, there's an undertray. Remove that. The rear sub holder has four 10mm bolts. Over time they loosen and I found mine were causing some rattling and jingling.
Now the front two bolts are easy. For the rear though....
You have maybe enough room for a very low profile 10mm ratchet. If not, you're going to have to loosen with a static wrench, and then unscrew them by hand.
The plastic sub holder will now come out. Swap them out.
Only thing is...the plastic enclosure just sits on the aluminum, so i sound deaden that. I also put deading around the speakers in the enclosure themselves as I found that the speakers caused the enclosure to rattle even if not in the car.
I placed the enclosure down and bolted the front two 10mms into place. The rears took forever to do by wrench.
And then I went to put the parcel shelf back on...
No matter how I tried, it wouldn't fit. There's this little tab that slots into the body work, and I could not get it to go back in. Some garden sheers, blood, and a few days of trying later, I finally got it in.
Now it had to slot on that little shelf I told you about. You have to push the entire parcel shelf into place. Clip the three holders on the rail. 10mm bolts on each side, plastic screws, and finally done. Throw the C pillars back in, reattach the seatbelts, put the rear seat back together.
Your hands will look like you've punched glass for a week or two, but the bass....
It's my personal belief and after talking with a friend that it seems that the rear deck should not be messed with, and if it is to be messed with, the rear window should be removed. I can't imagine them putting the rear shelf in and everything back there with the rear glass in place. There's just not enough room.
Last edited by SovietKitsch; 05-19-2020 at 01:21 AM.
On another thread from the past someone came up with a novel way to reinstall the shelf cover and catch that rear tab. They made loop of either wire or string and looped it around that tab and pulled on it as they were reinstalling the shelf and that made it bend down into the hole. The then cut the wire or string and pulled it out.
SovietKitch were the rear subs the same model as the new subs?.
On another thread from the past someone came up with a novel way to reinstall the shelf cover and catch that rear tab. They made loop of either wire or string and looped it around that tab and pulled on it as they were reinstalling the shelf and that made it bend down into the hole. The then cut the wire or string and pulled it out.
SovietKitch were the rear subs the same model as the new subs?.
That was my idea after also dealing with it for 2 days!
On another thread from the past someone came up with a novel way to reinstall the shelf cover and catch that rear tab. They made loop of either wire or string and looped it around that tab and pulled on it as they were reinstalling the shelf and that made it bend down into the hole. The then cut the wire or string and pulled it out.
SovietKitch were the rear subs the same model as the new subs?.
They were the regular non-kevlar speakers in the front doors. Swapping them out and fixing the rattling 10mms holding the enclosure in place did make a world of difference. Just at the sake of cutting up my hands.
Oh can you post how you sound treated the door panels?
I have always applied it to the metal but you said you did the door panels themselves?
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Apologies for not seeing this sooner. I did apply directly to the metal that made up the outer door skin. I went overboard and covered the entire thing, and it did make a load of difference. Even moreso on the drivers side as the old factory sound deading had become brittle and in some places flaked and peeled off.
OK that is a VERY interesting comment!
I will for sure be doing the plastic door cards as I have ignored everything but the metal panels in the past.
Very good suggestion and thanks again!
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Well finally got to installing the upgraded Kevlar driver speakers I purchased from the UK. As I posted I got hit with an additional shipping charge and not much satisfaction other than it costs more to ship over sea's!
I suggested that they figure the shipping and at least tell the customer before it is shipped!
Thanks for the great help in this thread. As usual I broke some plastic clips and am waiting to receive them. Found I had to do several things different to get the job done.
The two side panels or the C pillar trim (This is the trim that goes around the very back small triangle shaped windows) are a combination of plastic trim pieces plastic riveted together with various clips. Very difficult to decipher Jaguars instructions in the JTIS. Just diagrams and arrows pointing to how it comes apart. You need to remove both rear scuff plates and the trim running along the door section that clips into the scuff plate. Don't break that plastic alignment pin that attaches the two parts. You need to do this BEFORE trying to remove the C pillar covers. That was not clear in the JTIS. Also note that Jaguar does not list the plastic mounting push pins separately for this panel or the scuff plates.I am trying to run those down now.
The rear deck speakers were the most difficult.
The two 200mm (8") speakers bolt to this plastic plate and then six bolts attach this to the rear deck.
The problem is the severely slanted back window makes the access to the back bolts very tight and no room to turn the wrench.
I have this very small VIM ratchet that is only about $16 or so. Not much taller than the 10mm socket.
All assembled.
Really worked well and quickly removed and installed the bolts. Just as posted above these 6 bolts were NOT tight! The two back ones were almost finger tight and the other 4 were easy to tighten with the ratchet.
So be sure and check them if you ever get in there.
Now the dreaded part: Reinstalling the rear deck cover and hitting the small rear center hole with the plastic tab on the deck. Even with the great string trick that was posted above I had no luck. The tab disappears from sight long before it hits the alignment hole so nothing to visually guide you in. I even ground down the sides of the tab to make the end a bit more pointed to try get it to self align. After fighting this for several hours and just getting more sweaty and frustrated. I ended up cutting a slot from the trunk into the blind box the plastic tab slides into. Now I can use a flash light and see if the tab is in the right position.
Finally got it and I plan to sound treat the trunk as I have about 1.5 sheets of sound deadener left. No comments on the sound yet as I just did a quick function test on each speaker as they were installed.
Still a good bit of reassembly left too.
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Last edited by clubairth1; 07-26-2020 at 06:25 PM.
Guy, can anyone confirm me if the rear trunk shelf is the same between pre and post facelift models? I start to understand most of electronic part is very well changed, including modules location and harnesses. Still, the speaker connectors and rear shelf is the same?
I am planning to do an upgrade to my base meridian 2017 car to Surround and not sure if the rear shelf will fit or not. Eventually, if the cables are there and the cuts in the shelf from base are there, I can get only the speakers.
Also, another question, are the bigger bass speakers (front and back) different between base and surround for Meridian version? I can see the coaxial in the back and medium in front doors are different, but not sure about the the bass speakers. Same question for the tweeters. Checking the ebay listings, those seem to be exactly the same but I want to be sure if anyone has access to parts catalogue.
05-17-2020 | 09:57 AM
That was my idea after also dealing with it for 2 days!
