Modded the XJ this weekend.
#1
Modded the XJ this weekend.
Hello, I asked a question in this forum about a year ago asking if anyone has switched to dual cone air filters. I didn't get any responses so this weekend I did the swap. I ordered(2) K&N cone filters, (2) 3.5" silicone 45 degree elbows, (12") of straight 3.5" polished aluminum pipe,(4) 3.5" quality hose clamps. I already had the Mina Gallery intake pipe installed several months ago. Vieuzu claims the mina pipe actually makes less power then the crinkled accordion stock plastic pipe but I don't see how unless there is heat soak. Took some fitting and planning and also had to trim down the Mina pipe due to length of maf sensor. I thought I was going to lose the crankcase breather tube where it connects to mina pipe but it just made it. Everything is a smooth transition now. The factory setup had quite a few rough surfaces and bottlenecks , like the top of the air box and transition from box to intake tube. The factory did have somewhat of a ram air setup which now just becomes a cold air setup to the cones. The purpose of this was hopes to hear the supercharger and maybe even pick up a few hp. I also have the mina gallery supercharger pulley installed. All I can say is WOW! Under normal driving everything is quiet as stock, but anything over 1/4 throttle and you can hear this baby sign. So amazing. I cant tell if I gained any power but even if I didn't it was well worth it.
#2
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Newport Beach, California
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Given the position of the aftermarket air cleaners, not sure if there's any benefit to be had as they now draw in air behind the radiator and condenser.
Consider replacing the water outlet pipes with the aluminium versions as they can only withstand a finite number of cold to hot to cold cycles before failing.
If the vehicle has more than 62,000 miles (100,000 km) the gearbox fluid should also be changed and the pan/filter replaced.
Consider replacing the water outlet pipes with the aluminium versions as they can only withstand a finite number of cold to hot to cold cycles before failing.
If the vehicle has more than 62,000 miles (100,000 km) the gearbox fluid should also be changed and the pan/filter replaced.
The following 2 users liked this post by NBCat:
lotusespritse (10-22-2023),
pologuy (10-23-2023)
#3
Consider replacing the water outlet pipes with the aluminium versions as they can only withstand a finite number of cold to hot to cold cycles before failing.
If the vehicle has more than 62,000 miles (100,000 km) the gearbox fluid should also be changed and the pan/filter replaced.
If the vehicle has more than 62,000 miles (100,000 km) the gearbox fluid should also be changed and the pan/filter replaced.
Anything else to know about a 2016-2019 3.0...?
Last edited by pologuy; 10-23-2023 at 12:06 AM.
#4
If you ever take the supercharger off, change the PCV diaphragm as a maintenance item. Also replace the supercharger snout coupler with an aftermarket design and the supercharger oil.
#5
#6
I plan to buy a Mina Gallery intake and do this exact test in the next few months, along with dyno pulls on both setups. "Racer 69" on youtube has done tests on his car and demonstrated the Mina intake lost power, but the tests were a bit all over the place and mixed in a pulley and tune as well. Will be on my XE so results will end up in the XE forum.
#7
In this setup, OP has left the airbox feeds which are now his "cold air intakes" as in they funnel cold air from outside to the new filters. This cold air will mix with the engine bay air, but without knowing how the air flows in the engine bay we can't really be sure how it affects things... it's possible that there's enough airflow that the pod filters are sucking fresh air from outside without any of the engine bay air being mixed in - it's also possible they're pulling stagnant air and temps went up loads. Only way to truly know is to bung a thermocouple into the old setup and measure intake temps, then bung in a thermocouple in the exact same spot in the new setup and measure again. Engine and ambient temperatures would need to be consistent between the two tests, which is easy enough.
I plan to buy a Mina Gallery intake and do this exact test in the next few months, along with dyno pulls on both setups. "Racer 69" on youtube has done tests on his car and demonstrated the Mina intake lost power, but the tests were a bit all over the place and mixed in a pulley and tune as well. Will be on my XE so results will end up in the XE forum.
I plan to buy a Mina Gallery intake and do this exact test in the next few months, along with dyno pulls on both setups. "Racer 69" on youtube has done tests on his car and demonstrated the Mina intake lost power, but the tests were a bit all over the place and mixed in a pulley and tune as well. Will be on my XE so results will end up in the XE forum.
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#8
You're right - a search of my workshop manual for "intake air temperature" turned up a few references to an intake air temp sensor and/or a charge air temperature sensor. I haven't started hacking the electronics yet so right now it's easier for me to plumb in a couple of thermocouple clamps than it is to read ECU data
Last edited by dangoesfast; 10-24-2023 at 12:14 AM.
#9
You're right - a search of my workshop manual for "intake air temperature" turned up a few references to an intake air temp sensor and/or a charge air temperature sensor. I haven't started hacking the electronics yet so right now it's easier for me to plumb in a couple of thermocouple clamps than it is to read ECU data
My $20 OBDII wifi adapter and iPhone app lists support for intake air temp.
Last edited by lotusespritse; 10-24-2023 at 02:27 AM.
#10
Just my few pennys: Newer seen "Open Air" filters that actually improves anything else than noise when added alone. (sure induction noise is a gain, if that is desired) Factory filters do have more flow capasity than engine can suck in on max rpm. Also the factory piping are designed for optimum airflow. (in most cases. There are "just piping" as well, but emission controls have been forced even the city car manufacturers looking an optimum intake) Some corners and wedges what first looks that they are resctrictions, are there to made designed whirls or backshock pulses etc for the airflow. (yes, you can see something on dyno, but in practise lose in laptimes on track. Typically customs setups are worth (exept for the noise) when engine airflow are increased over the capasity of factory filters (rpm, stroke volume, can timing..) or when the vehicle need more robust setup (rally, rallycross, folkracing... )
Note: Most of K&N filters are oiled: The Mass Air Flow sensors what are in x351 are the type what don´t like oil in the air, so clean your MAF:s often to keep your mixture level correct. As far i know each MAF:s have air temp sensor inbuild, so you have intake air temperature sensors right after filters.
(Been build some race setups: Your new setup dosent look cold air intake. You need to make an protecting walls for radiator air flow and against engine side -> Airflow thru front grille/bumber are so high volume that it easyly overcome the airflow of original cold air scoops. The more speed you have the more the air pressure will raise in that area, since air hit to the front of the engine and need to found its way out to the opening around transmission and sides of the hood)
Note: Most of K&N filters are oiled: The Mass Air Flow sensors what are in x351 are the type what don´t like oil in the air, so clean your MAF:s often to keep your mixture level correct. As far i know each MAF:s have air temp sensor inbuild, so you have intake air temperature sensors right after filters.
(Been build some race setups: Your new setup dosent look cold air intake. You need to make an protecting walls for radiator air flow and against engine side -> Airflow thru front grille/bumber are so high volume that it easyly overcome the airflow of original cold air scoops. The more speed you have the more the air pressure will raise in that area, since air hit to the front of the engine and need to found its way out to the opening around transmission and sides of the hood)
The following users liked this post:
wombat (10-30-2023)
#11
Another way: Take an plastic bucket (colour your choise) and start cutting that on shape that its sits nicely around airfilter and top of the bucket follows hood line. Again use door seal for the edges and find way to fix it secure in place.
#12
But depending on where that sensor is (I forget if it's on the throttle body or before), this modification may take the validity of that out of the loop.
And if it is out of the loop, that will really screw-up the fuel mixture, make it pretty random.
I've used K&N filters since the '80's on different vehicles, but personally haven't seen any added benefit on our JLR or BMW-based Range Rover. They actually caused more problems than benefits.
Last edited by 12jagmark; 10-24-2023 at 12:27 PM.
#15
Sorry haven’t been able to post due to vacation.
Many good points mentioned above. I agree with the above statement about leaving the fresh air piping intake intact and thus having more of a cold air setup vs factory ram air. I could fab a divider from the engine bay to minimize mixing as much engine bay heat in with fresh air.The piping runs directly at the the filter, inches away. I do have a cheap scanner and will try to see if I can get intake temps. The sound gain is what I was after and am super happy with the result . It now sounds like a Supercharged car should sound . Coming from a casual drag racing background I have always found that smoothing out the intake track equaled more power. The factory air setup was not designed for maximum potential. As far as oiled filters , my previous maf cars didn’t have issues with them as long as you don’t over oil. The butt meter might be lying but feels like it gained but I’m not willing to spend 400-500 on dyno testing . My next mod will be exhaust. Looking for some 200 cell cats and maybe get rid of resonators. I love the Vieuzu sound.
jay
Many good points mentioned above. I agree with the above statement about leaving the fresh air piping intake intact and thus having more of a cold air setup vs factory ram air. I could fab a divider from the engine bay to minimize mixing as much engine bay heat in with fresh air.The piping runs directly at the the filter, inches away. I do have a cheap scanner and will try to see if I can get intake temps. The sound gain is what I was after and am super happy with the result . It now sounds like a Supercharged car should sound . Coming from a casual drag racing background I have always found that smoothing out the intake track equaled more power. The factory air setup was not designed for maximum potential. As far as oiled filters , my previous maf cars didn’t have issues with them as long as you don’t over oil. The butt meter might be lying but feels like it gained but I’m not willing to spend 400-500 on dyno testing . My next mod will be exhaust. Looking for some 200 cell cats and maybe get rid of resonators. I love the Vieuzu sound.
jay
#16
The sound gain is what I was after and am super happy with the result . It now sounds like a Supercharged car should sound . Coming from a casual drag racing background I have always found that smoothing out the intake track equaled more power. The factory air setup was not designed for maximum potential. As far as oiled filters , my previous maf cars didn’t have issues with them as long as you don’t over oil.
Been tuned quite many engines (for track use, not for strip) and i highly recommend to insulate air intake from engine bay air. It can be quite descructive for engine.
The factory inlet are designed for maximum output for factory engine setup. (JLR used it up to 575HP) Most cases if only input are changed there are only losing (exept sounds), not so much effect in forced induction engines than naturaly aspired engines, where inlet airflow are extremely sensitive, but if engine are tuned further from factory setup, naturaly things change.
Its also what kind of engine you are building up. If you look only engine roaring top rpm:s with high output, you need short and straight intake. If you need driveability where you need to contol rear wheel traction grip mid rpm:s with right foot, without your engine kicking all in on middle of corner and ending you in the barriers. (need of fast and accuracy response of power output). Then you play longer intake with setting swirling airflow.
On street vehicle, with street transmission, i would focus on driveability.
I have been read that Mina gallery have great exhaust parts for V8 and also pulley kits to improve engine performance.
Last edited by Vasara; 10-30-2023 at 12:13 PM.
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