Need help understanding engine oil requirements
#1
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Just stepped up from my 87 XJ6 to a 2012 XJL 5.0 Non SC. I have seen many threads talking about engine oil. Other than purchasing the Castrol SLX Professional from the dealership, I see a requirement where the spec WSS-M2C925A is called for. Other threads say not to use over-the-counter Castrol Edge (unless in an emergency). Castrol Edge and the Castrol Edge Titamium BOTH say on the container they meet the WSS-M2C925A specifications.
So, someone please tell me the straight scoop.
Thanks.
So, someone please tell me the straight scoop.
Thanks.
#2
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Stevenwhitney (07-28-2016)
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Steven, when it comes to oil specs, it is simply a list of requirements that the oil has to meet to be called something. In the older days, a simple test of how well the oil flowed through an orifice was about all that was required (this orifice test is what determines the viscosity of an oil). But, as more types of oils are created and engines have more stringent requirements, you get longer lists of what the oil has to meet. As long as the oil bottle says that it meets said requirement, then it should be just fine. The trick is that when a new car comes out and has a new requirement for the oil, the oil companies are trying to catch up and figure out if their oil will meet that requirement. Once the testing is done, then they can add the requirement to their bottles. Only in a very limited circumstance will a bottle have it listed from the beginning (in the case of Castol working directly with Jaguar and the design of the new engine). Even then, not all their oils will be tested until after the production of the engine and its release.
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Stevenwhitney (07-29-2016)
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Just stepped up from my 87 XJ6 to a 2012 XJL 5.0 Non SC. I have seen many threads talking about engine oil. Other than purchasing the Castrol SLX Professional from the dealership, I see a requirement where the spec WSS-M2C925A is called for. Other threads say not to use over-the-counter Castrol Edge (unless in an emergency). Castrol Edge and the Castrol Edge Titamium BOTH say on the container they meet the WSS-M2C925A specifications.
So, someone please tell me the straight scoop.
Thanks.
So, someone please tell me the straight scoop.
Thanks.
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Having said that in the US the specs may be different but the standards/and reasoning will still be the same.
Last edited by ArtyH; 08-07-2016 at 11:16 AM.
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Stevenwhitney (08-07-2016)
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ArtyH (08-08-2016)
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A mod may then evaluate the post and put it in the How To section, if it is O.K.
Many thanks,
ArtyH
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Stevenwhitney (08-08-2016)
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ArtyH, I can give a little bit of insight on atleast one of the methods. Call me old school, I pulled the underneath pan, exposed the drain plug and did it the old fashion way of letting the oil drain out the bottom. Things are pretty much as you would expect if you have done an oil change. The 2 oddities of the oil change though are that the oil filter change (atleast on a 5.0L motor) is on the top of the engine, vice down low on the engine. This is nice in that it makes it easy to access as it is mounted in a very easy to access area. But, this also has the down side of it takes a special filter which makes the change a bit more expensive. The other oddity is that you have to remove the aerodynamic plate on the underside of the car. You will need a 10mm wrench for 2 nuts (directly between the front wheels) and you will also need a T25 (?) torx bit for all the other fasteners (3 across the front in a recess, 2 more just behind the 3 recessed ones, then you have 2 on each side to the frame at the point just behind the front wheels, and finally you have 3 bolts on each side tucked up on the tranny that are not obvious as they are 6"/15cm up from the underside of the car).
I have access to pneumatics. So, I use my air ratchet and things spin off pretty fast. You will need a 6"/15cm extension to get to the bolts on the tranny. You will probably also need a short extension (2"/5cm) for the 2 nuts as they are recessed slightly. Granted, a deep well socket is long enough to get at these too.
PUtting things back together isn't difficult at all. I normally slide the plate back in on the front edge as it is tucked in under/behind the plate going under the radiator. You install the initial bolts there and then you can work your way back, slowly raising the aero plate back into place.
I have access to pneumatics. So, I use my air ratchet and things spin off pretty fast. You will need a 6"/15cm extension to get to the bolts on the tranny. You will probably also need a short extension (2"/5cm) for the 2 nuts as they are recessed slightly. Granted, a deep well socket is long enough to get at these too.
PUtting things back together isn't difficult at all. I normally slide the plate back in on the front edge as it is tucked in under/behind the plate going under the radiator. You install the initial bolts there and then you can work your way back, slowly raising the aero plate back into place.
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