Ben I don't know if I have read your entire story but I don't see any mention of getting the car scanned by SDD?
Your pretty deep into it right now.

It would be a big help to get what codes SDD says your car has?
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I posted in a B codes post - they make no sense at all - there's nothing wrong with the circuits the car complains about. I have the means to run SDD (Mongoose cable) but I've resisted paying the £75 for a week of its use - I'm actually not sure a topix subscription is anything more than documents. I do have 1.63 downloaded.

I also have an XTool D8 and the codes it reports are

B1001-13 Right Hood Deployment Control - Permanent
B1003-13 Left Hood Deployment Control - Permanent
B1004-87 Right Frontal Impact Classification Sensor - Permanent
U3000-49 Control Module - Not Tested

I have tested the pedestrian control airbag circuits with 2.5 ohm resistors, the error remains. I have replaced all four impact sensors - the upper 'crash detection' and the lower pedestrian detection. to no avail.

The only thing this can be now is the RCM but the Jaguar errors are cryptic and the diagnosis path unclear. I need a way to clear the crash data from the RCM but I'm sure SDD won't allow it, the XTool does not list Jaguar as a car it can deal with from this perspective. There's no way now to get this fixed before everyone quits for christmas so this car is essentially dead till January from a road legal perspective - more than a little frustrating.

There's also a B1D17-87 Battery backed sounder - probably alarm related and B11ED-87 heater control module which I believe is the electric booster heater

 

I think your correct about looking at the RCM since a permanent error in this supposedly tells the PCM to disable the fuel pump. When you turn the key on but NOT to the start position can you hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds?

The cryptic code U3000 is another thing SDD should be able to help with. Which module is it talking about?

I keep bring this up but if you have V163 of SDD get it installed! The RCM can have a whole raft of codes and it's not for sure that the permanent error can't be removed I know I have not been able to do it myself!

I would start looking for another RCM with the exact part number as yours. Maybe find one for not much money. Unless the car is in an accident they normally don't cause any problems. Problem will be they might have the same permanent error as yours if it comes from a junk yard? No way to tell until it's in the car. But many cars go the junk yard because of expensive mechanical repairs too so they would be a great candidate for parts!
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Car drives just fine, airbag light is on and check pedestrian system message present.

What does it cost for SDD - is this part of the 'document subscription' - I am reluctant to spend even more money on the TOPIx extortion site until I know it will get the job done - Jaguar here want near £80 for one weeks access to 'all' but it implies all documents and isn't clear whether SDD is included in the deal.

As far as my research goes so far you cannot replace an RCM from another car - the car's VIN is encoded into them and it is a one shot deal, once the RCM learns the cars VIN it cannot be used in any other and cannot be written again - though there are a lot of mixed messages out there about this. The only thing Jaguar dealers will do is replace it with a new one - total cost in excess of £1500 which I will pay if I have to but I'd rather not.

If SDD can remove crash data I'm prepared to use / pay for it - if it cannot then there are places that can reflash the RCM for next to no money but I cannot get that done till the new year which totally sucks - this is one of those reasons I hate car computer tomfoolery with a passion.

Edit : So I figured I'd install SDD just in case and nothing but errors, antique and very flakey 16 bit application - 'side by side' error - more issues than I am interested in fixing so it won't run and I'm not interested in finding out why - if it won't run first time without error I can't trust it to connect to the cars modules without error.

 

If you have somebody who can remove the permanent errors from YOUR RCM I think that would be the way to go? Do they guarantee that they will return a clean module with no errors? How much do they charge?

If the car is running fine you could ignore the errors? Not great but the cheapest way.

If you refuse to install and understand SDD you will be at the mercy of the dealer? Yes it's terrible software but remember it was NOT made for us shade tree mechanics to use! In fact Jaguar does NOT want you to be using this at all. But there is nothing better.

Yes there is a lot of conflicting information too. But again Jaguar will only recommend and use new modules because that's their policy. The RCM might very well need to be replaced but Jaguar has stated this time and time again on other modules only to find out a used module can be used. Tell SDD it is new and let it try to reprogram the old module. Will it work? I don't know but the modules are very expensive from Jaguar and are they even available?

My SDD cost was the special cable about $50 and depending on how good you are with software an old used laptop with WIN7 pro 64 bit OS. Others have had luck using virtual machines and other OS's. I found SDD is best when it's run alone on a dedicated machine. This is dirt cheap now a days with all the millions of used laptops out there. I had just upgraded my shop laptop and had this one laying around.

Not a great machine either? Dell E6500. It was so slow and obsolete that I just upgraded to 8 GB RAM and a 1TB SSD. Learning or trying to learn Pathfinder now and it's even larger than SDD was and I ran out of HD space trying to install it!

The SDD software in many versions is all over and free. You will need to decide what version you want to use and do you want to connect to the internet or not?
I post this link a lot as our Brothers across the pond in the UK have posted complete images of different SDD versions. This is the easiest way to install SDD. I know as it took me several days to get it installed from the ground up and many more days and hours of downloading calibration files to my machine.

SDD Virtual Images
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I have an old Sony Vaio on which I had version 1.38 but it choked and now demands activation. I spent a lot of money on a genuine Drewtech Mongoose and still have it - I may see how the Sony Viao will respond to V1.63 but it sure ain't happy on Win 10, the Sony is Windows 7 - just need to find it.

I have yet to find anyone but Jaguar listing an RCM for sale - in fact I haven't seen it for sale at Jaguar online sites either, you can buy them from vehicle dismantlers but if much of the scuttlebut is accurate the writing of the VIN number to them is a one shot deal and has to be done as part of a new RCM initialisation - the RCM pulls the VIN from the ECU of the car.

How did you get all the calibration files - was your version able to access the internet without becoming 'activation challenged' ...

The places that list the reset do say it is guaranteed but one things for sure the £30 that will cost versus the cost from Jaguar makes it worth a try - I'm resigned to paying Jaguar but not until all alternatives have been explored - which basically means the car is now grounded until Jan 6th at the earliest, reality is likely February - glad I own more than one car.

Took the car to get windscreen today (failed - fitter down with Covid) and it sure needs some TLC - threw a suspension fault, the car also fogs up so may be stuck in full recirc, no parking faults but camera reports unavailable - drivers seat heating is also active but not selected to be so - be a nice car when I get the bugs squished.

I thought Pathfinder was no good for pre 2017 cars ?

The impatience to resolve is passed - Christmas has really put a crimp on getting it sorted so I'll just take the top off a bottle and take life as it comes - right now have a good dose of Pleurisy so not helping my temperament any.

 

Yes full version after patching it. Yes internet and I have all the downloaded files. But most installs do come with some As-built and calibration files. Plus with our old cars there are not any updates or recent files anymore. Our cars are ancient history to Jaguar. The updates I keep getting are for later models but I have not figured out how to stop the updates? Well I did but SDD started disabling functions the longer I went without updating.

Yes Pathfinder is for 2017 and up so if I can't get a working copy I guess no way for a home guy to work on those cars anymore?

Good point on the RCM because that might be the case. I wonder if anyone has a fix because your car won't be the only one and then it's off to the junk yard. Maybe try the reset service? I have had a few modules/PCM's repaired and will say that £30 is a suspiciously low price??

If you do have a genuine Drew cable it has value for sure! If this all falls apart you should be able to get a good price as they are not available and have not been for a long time.
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£30 low - sure -it seems to be around $120 in the US for the service. A new RCM best I can identify is £750 or so, Jaguar are also hinting at 4 hours labour at £210 per hour and that is plus 20% tax on top of it all so this kind of issue if not solvable at 'our' level will for sure condemn a lot of cars - you cannot remain road legal in the UK with an airbag light illuminated.

Yes genuine Mongoose - even verified it with Drew Tech years back when bought just to be sure I wasn't in posession of a clone. I have had a string of JLR products starting with Range Rovers, a Discovery or two. Back then Jaguars SDD was a no brainer when there was a 'no subscription' necessary version - if you have ways and means I won't be too upset if a PM found its way in my direction. I don't actually think I would mind the £100 for a weeks use if I could be sure it will do the job, but to lay out the cash and still be screwed over by Jaguar - that hurts.

I see this though on many 1.63 systems available "JLR version after V137 do not support offline programming"

 

I got SDD V1.59 running, makes no difference the errors still won't reset even with SDD, so now confirmed dead in the water until Jan, I could run 'new module' on the RCM but not sure how it would respond to this and I don't want to make matters worse to the point where the car won't even drive.

 

Good point! How about a last attempt at getting the RCM fixed? Kind of a hail Mary pass? It's not too much money before giving up?
Hate to see the car go to the scrappers for a minor problem like this too.
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I am terminally stupid so the scrappers isn't even in the thought process - I will pay what it takes ultimately but if I can avoid dealer or manufacturer exploitation that is my first option. It does appear that SDD will give me the ability to configure a new RCM once I get the asbuilt and config files so worst case it is a new RCM.

 

Just for some closure on some of the items within this thread I did resolve most of the issues here. The airbag codes were a combination of wiring fault behind the bumper in a cable for which no part number exists and two dodgy airbags

B1001-13 Right Hood Deployment Control - Permanent - This was a failed airbag that had actually fired and the previous owner had cut and 'repackaged' the bag
B1003-13 Left Hood Deployment Control - Permanent - This was a failed airbag that had actually fired and the previous owner had cut and 'repackaged' the bag
B1004-87 Right Frontal Impact Classification Sensor - Permanent - this was a broken wire in a patch harness between the main harness and the bumper harness

I did not need to replace the RCM and have a brand spanking new one to hand completely unprogrammed and unused. There are 2 crashes recorded in the one on the car but the limitation on replacing is apparently 5 crashes that result in airbag discharges.

The car is now MOT'd (inspection to US members) and road legal - I now have a whole list of other items to deal with.

Broken rear glass - the big one - cracked - getting replaced 3rd Feb - over £2k ... ouch ... not an inspection failure but I hadn't spotted, now I know why my radio reception is so hit and miss, plus I've not been able to drive the car much since I got it and had not realised the heated rear screen does not work either. The moral of this one is to make sure and walk away from a purchase that has broken glass unless you know the pain your wallet is going to feel. My rear glass was every bit as expensive as the windscreen that was replaced just before Christmas. The glass is the one job I really have never had the stones to do on a modern car - I've done loads of old school rubber mounted glass but this glue in stuff I find intimidating.

Rear Tyre slightly damaged/cracking or perishing Both (5.2.3 (d) (ii))
Offside Front Road wheel slightly distorted (5.2.2 (c) (i))
Nearside Rear Road wheel slightly distorted (5.2.2 (c) (i))
Offside Rear Road wheel slightly distorted (5.2.2 (c) (i))

Oil leak, but not excessive (8.4.1 (a) (i))

Exhaust has a minor leak of exhaust gases (6.1.2 (a))

Nearside Front Lower Suspension arm pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Offside Front Lower Suspension arm pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement (5.3.4 (a) (i))

Front Sub-frame corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i))
Rear Sub-frame corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i))

Offside Rear Upper Suspension arm pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Offside Rear Wheel bearing has slight play (5.1.3 (a) (i))

Nearside Rear Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material (1.1.11 (c))
Offside Rear Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material (1.1.11 (c))

The rear brake hoses are C2D29317 (right hand) replaced by C2D35979. C2D29316 (left hand) replaced by C2D39218 which is actually the number for the front brake hose. I have already replaced discs and pads all round.

The suspension stuff is a bit of a challenge because the tester/inspector does not indicate which and replacing all items front and rear is an expensive proposition I did inspect prior to testing and saw no real issues but I want to get it all sorted before I tear a new set of tyres to pieces. Tyres I planned to replace anyway, the wheels was a surprise because I've had them off and saw nothing - I'm going to get the measuring stick on these things before committing to new rims because they would need to be really bad for any distortion to be visible without spinning them and I've never seen a tester do this.

The other items are no big deal, I've already ordered all the exhaust gaskets, I also have a complete DPF and right hand 'flexi' pipe already on hand. I've not decided with the suspension whether to replace the whole item where available or simply replace bushes (I do have the tools for this already) but I think those items with ball joints I will simply replace the whole thing, I am however concerned at whether the bolts will come out easily or whether it will be fight time and a carbide saw (been there got that T shirt). The rear wheel bearings are no big deal, I'll do both sides. As for the oil leak I need some decent weather and then I plan to do a compression test and verify the turbo condition, I am keeping my eyes open for a reasonably priced complete engine with significantly less miles than mine, I will then rebuild the engine once removed and replace, the replacement enigne will then be sold on.

Coirrosion on the subframes - nah more like surface rust - I'll clean it off and touch it all up when I have the undertrays off to do the cam belt and fuel pump belt.

I have also obtained a transmission with 44k miles on it so that will go in with the replacement engine but not before I do a full service on it and replace a bunch of stuff including the introduction of a Sonax Zip kit, new Sonax bushes (better than the XF items) Seals and O'Rings all round, I may or may not replace the control valves - not decided since these are easy enough changed without pulling the transmission out of the car. For those who want to prolong the life of your transmissions you need to periodically check the live data on the control valve adaptations as these will tell you if the bushes or seals are failing, if they can no longer deliver the pressures required the clutch packs can drag or slip and the end won't be far away. Ignore any Jaguar advice you receive - do not go more than 60 to 80k miles without dumping and replacing the oil, fit for life is a con the truth is more like 'failed outside warranty' but not servicing the transmission artificially keeps service costs down. Make sure you are in a seated position when you find out how much the oil for the ZF 6HP or 8HP transmissions costs - I wouldn't recommend experimenting with cheaper options (check out the cost of a new transmission or a rebuild). If I do a full on rebuild of my transmission replacing all potential failure points the parts alone are over £1k

 

Great repair on a that pedestrian protection system! What a God awful mess that system is! So glad my car does not have it. I think you earned a gold star with that wire harness repair too! Not an easy one to figure out for sure!

With that extensive list of repairs I hesitate to ask but how much will all that cost you?
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By the time I have finished not much shy of £3k I reckon to knock the car into a reasonable order that I'm not afraid to take long trips in, I have fixed a lot along the way that I've not really posted about. The £3k doesn't include doing the transmission refurb (forecast £1.2k) and refurbing the engine and turbos (forecast £4k) should it prove necessary but I am fully expecting to do all three (already have a 40k mile transmission on the bench). Right now it depends where I go with the repairs to the wheels in particular, I had planned to replace the tyres but later in the year, the wheels were not on my radar at all - a decent set of wheels and new tyres is £2k. I have listed prices below. Some items I had no choice but go to Jaguar but the airbags I got lucky on, I also replaced the discs and pads with Delphi items so half the price of Jaguar though the brake hoses are painful. I did some of the exercise below to see where costs went if a reader had to go to Jaguar - and it is pretty darn scary - it is actually pretty scary even without Jaguar prices.

Bear in mind I don't pay labor costs so none of that is below, I am 100% DIY, I've not worked in the trade for near 40 years though but I've always been a gear head. There is no way I would consider buying a vehicle in such a state of neglect if I was dependent upon Jaguar dealers (since the car has a full dealer service history until the last owner so one bad owner is all it takes).

The actual costs as in monies paid out by myself so far are a smidge over £1k excluding tools I bought . The brakes were the worst totalling around £720 and a couple of hours a corner, the airbags and sensors I only paid £150 all in but this was easily 20 hours diagnostics, I will likely spend another hour or two when the harness repair parts arrive making that up, I just replaced the rear left door window lift that was £25 (C2D6312) less than an hour to do. I have bought the gaskets and such for the exhaust and also a RH turbo to exhaust pipe and that bill was arround £200. I will be buying new rear bearings and haven't decided which way to go on the suspension bushes yet. previous owner replaced the windscreen, the rear glass is due to be replaced on Feb 3rd but have covered that with glass insurance that I already hold, I have obtained some pretty nice floor mats and am considering refurbing the drivers seat.

At Jaguars prices I reckon this bill would be over £5k and that is without labor, all the items listed below I have addressed.

Brake disc and pad part numbers bear in mind the car is a 3.0 Diesel the 5.0's are different (I paid £720 or so for all these items - brake hoses are genuine only available).
Brake Disc Pair Front 355mm : C2C25337 : £260
Brake Pads Front : C2C40926 : £234
Pad Sensor Front : C2P17004 : £45
Brake Disc Pair Rear 326mm : C2D26352: £260
Brake Pads Rear : C2P26112 : £60
Pad Sensor Rear : C2D2976 : £45
Brake disc Retaining nuts : C2C33384010 : £26.59 (I used only 2 per wheel, the car had none at all fitted)
Brake Pipes Rear : C2D20223 : £59.42
Brake Hose RH Rear : C2D29316 : £179.38 (this part is crazy money, there is a lot of conflicting information whether the part number for the front hose can be used - VIN number related - depends which site you go to)
Brake Hose LH Rear : C2D35979 : £48.42
4 * Copper Washers : C2C31805 : £18.10
Brake Fluid : ATE SL6 : £49

Airbag stuff (I paid £150 for all these items)
2 * Under bonnet airbags C2D23552 : £1074.82
2 * Airbag Spacers C2D26054 : £12.26
8 * Airbag Bolts C2Z2916 £23.52
2 * front sensor for the interior airbags C2D3537 : £209.11 (used only one)
2 * front sensor for the bonnet airbags C2Z1166 : £359.54 (Used only 1 but bolt was siezed, original was actually OK but didn't figure until I replaced and I had to destroy to remove - wasn't thorough enough in my harness checks).

Timing Belt Misc
Gasket-timing Cover JDE3096 £4.79
Gasket-timing Cover JDE3097 £4.69
Tools for locking Crank / Cams and Fuel Pump£75

Timing Belts and Poly V belt (Gates)
Poly V Belt 6PK2305 (Jaguar C2Z4780) : £20.10
Fuel Pump Bel Kit K015704XS (Jaguar C2C41082) : £70.42
Timing Belt Kit K025624XS (Jaguar C2D7052) : £125.99

Timing Belts (Dayco) (these will be installed until I determine engine and Turbo health)
Cambelt Kit3.0-1 : £158.62 (includes timing and fuel pump)

Exhaust Repair Stuff
C2Z15575 Turbo to Cat Gasket (LH) : £12.58
Turbo to RH downpipe (Cat?) Gasket C2Z15576 : £11.80
2*DPF Flange Gasket XR852833 : £8.74
5*Turbo to downpipe / Cat Stud AJ88495 : £12.80
5*Turbo to downpipe Nut C2C38026 : £13.85
RH Catalyst and Downpipe C2D2824 : £30

Wiring harness stuff (I am into this for around £100 - airbag related)
Front Bumper Wiring Loom C2D40943 : £110.18
Wire and Connectors £35

Rear LH Door (I paid £25 for the lift mech)
Window lift mechanism C2D6312 : £180

Gear Selector Module (I paid out £76 for an item from a 44k mile car) (problem was faulty handbrake switches - intermittent - module has two switches and they must both 'agree')
Secondhand module : £76

Suspension & Wheel Bearings (I have paid out £50 so far)
Rear Height Sensors (C2D6859) : £147.74 (intermittent fault rear left sensor when in high speed cruise)
Not yet decided anything else.

Wheels and Tyres ( I paid £50 for all 4 sensors brand new and OEM - seller had purchased in error)
TPMS Sensors (C2D47173) : £109.98 each
Watch this space ....

Misc (prices shown are what I paid)
Parking Sensor front Right Outer C2Z22180 : £24 (Should be £148.85)
Trunk/Boot Scuff Plate : Secondhand : £13
Bonnet Latches and cable (RH catch unreliable) : £57.95
Boot/Trunk lid Catch (Intermittently failed to release - jamming boot/trunk closed) : £45
50 Amp battery support unit : £320 (mandatory if you want to start messing with coding and diagnostics)
Airbag Control Module (RCM) C2D38011 : £125 (purchased NOS - should be £624)
Spare Key C2D51458 : £140
RH Active Headlight : £600 (headlight on car when purchased was botched together with silicone, thought it was only condensation but unit was full of water and had been hacked due to a defective connector. C2D60261 - should be £1736.89)
Alcantara Sun Visors pair : Secondhand : £49 (drivers mirror cover was broken off, lights on passenger were inoperative)
Engine Cover : £21 ( cover that came on the car was cracked and one piece was broken off)
Full Service : Oil, Oil Filter, Fuel Filter , Air Filter, Cabin Filter (carbon activated) : £140
Floor Matts 3750 gsm 15mm deep : £82

 

What a big list!
I did want to ask why you replaced the flexible brake lines as Jaguar uses SS flex lines covered in plastic. So you can't easily tell they are SS. Do they wear out? I have never changed any SS ones?

So much difference in prices too?
I got 4 TPMS for my 2014 XJ for around $30 on EBay.
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Don't know about the stainless bit, there is what appears to be corrosion showing that somebody has tried to mask, I've not dug into it, but if I see anything remotely suspicious on brake lines I don't mcguyver solutions though I wasn't aware they were supposed to be stainless, I'll see if I can get some pics - too cold, dark and wet presently.

For sure on the prices. I guess when you do a job like this that it depends how much of a hurry you are in, there are bargains to be had, pretty much my only real rule in searching them out is that I won't do nameless stuff from dubious sources, try to stick to the manufacturers that supply the factories, I could have got some things cheaper I'm sure but I wasn't convinced of the products quality..