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Sessions are saved automatically and I don't think you can operate SDD without it creating a session on it's own.
SDD always asks me if I want to start a new session or continue on with my previous one if it's a car I have hooked up to SDD before. Do you get that question when starting SDD on a car you have previously used SDD on?
Yes you can view them. Sessions are used so the Technician can send it to Jaguar for further analysis. All of them are saved and I had a bunch of junk because I was and am still learning so session files all over the place! I finally deleted all of them and started over.
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Thanks for reply,
I've literally just started using sdd ids, it seems that I can only use legacy ids due to my car being a 2000.5 str.. I'm finding it really tricky to navigate, I can do a basic pdi diagnostic test, but after that I'm pretty lost. It doesn't offer me the option of saving the session, and I've not figured out how to as yet, any info, links to using legacy ids much appreciated.
Yes SDD should drop back to WDS/IDS for your model 2000 car. Or did you mean 2005 since you mentioned STR?
I have several training documents that might help but they are too big to attach on the forum. If you contact me I can send you some stuff for further reading.
The thing to remember is SDD stands for Symptom Driven Diagnosis. So you MUST enter a detailed description (a symptom) of your cars problems to get anywhere. At least as much detail as possible. So I always start with MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light) is on. This at least allows you to read the codes. The entire point of SDD is to reduce the time the factory guys take to diagnose and fix problems. And to repair it correctly the first time so no come backs.
More and more options are available as you enter more and more details. Do you currently have a problem your trying to fix?
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It's a 2002.5 (basically an end od 2002 car)
s type r.
Yeah that's the thing the cars too early for Sdd so it reverts to legacy ids, everything I've read and down loaded seems to deal with Sdd rather than legacy ids, so navigating around ids has been a bit of a nightmare.
If you have any info about using legacy ids that would be brilliant.
I have various dtc' s
Wheel speed sensor code (scp) but as I say using ids I don't know how to narrow it down to the exact wheel sensor etc.
I have worked a bit on a 2004 XJ that reverts SDD back to IDS I think. Did not seem much different to me? Still confusing and cryptic.
But with the rare car you have I think it's considered a series II car because the rest of the world did not get the R until the 2003 year facelift.
Not sure but does the software read the VIN and identify the car properly?
Yes I have something if you want it. It's just too big for the forum or I would post them here for everyone.
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I use an IOTA DLS-55. 55 AMPS @13.4 VDC. More than adequate! But it's expensive and after lurking for several months I snagged a used on on EBay for $85 with all the leads cut off including the power cord! So some repair was needed. I did not believe I needed this at first since I already had a pretty good 50 amp battery charger. BUT I was very wrong and I still think most home guys problems stem from not getting a properly rated DC power supply and that is NOT a battery charger!
I run SDD 159. I get all updates and vehicle file info downloads. No log in since it's been hacked. I have been told to never update or connect the laptop to the internet but SDD starts nagging me to update if I wait too long. Then if I ignore that it says functionality will start to be disabled in steps until you do update. Not sure what that is about as many have posted they installed one version and never updated it. Mine will also fall back properly on older cars to the WDS/IDS mode and I can service what seems to be a very wide range of years.
So far I have had at least 12-14 updates and everything works fine with a clone cable that I paid $60 from china.
I have done a huge amount of stuff with it. Like adding keys when the car only has one or none. That's a bit of a scary procedure!
I also bricked a car when attempting to level and calibrate the air suspension on a 2008 XJ. Only thing on the dash was "Diagnosis Mode". Turn the key and nothing, no lights, no beeps nothing.
Thankfully I have read enough from Cambo to understand you really can't destroy the modules or the car. So back into SDD I went. About 1 1/2 hours later doing scans and such and the car was back just as it was. Still not exactly sure what or how I got it back. This is my biggest problem with SDD is there is no training materials and it's a very difficult system to use.
I sure did sweat bullets for that 1 1/2 hours!!
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I have a quick question about the use of a power supply while using SDD. I seem to have got set up with a laptop an Mongoose cable and it appears to all work, but before connecting it to my car I am just trying to establish exactly what I am supplsed to do with a power supply/charger. Do I simply connect a decent 30+ amp power supply to the battery on the car and set the voltage to something above 13V or is there something else I need to do? I'm not sure what the power supply achieves, or indeed if it is strictly necessary, so any advice would be great.
Yes and MAKE sure when you open SDD that the battery symbol is green and NOT yellow or red!
The DC power supply needs to be capable of at least 30 amps. More is better in this case. Also it must be a regulated supply with low noise and low ripple. So look for a regulated DC power supply and NOT a battery charger.
These cars and SDD are very sensitive to this and you might as well get it right the first time!
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Make sure the negative cable is on the chassis, not the battery
TJ
Is there any reason other than the BMS why you can't just put the negative cable on the battery? That is what I do on my '10 XKR and haven't seen issues so far but don't want to break something!
Is there any reason other than the BMS why you can't just put the negative cable on the battery? That is what I do on my '10 XKR and haven't seen issues so far but don't want to break something!
Yes, I was wondering why that should make a difference. As far as I know the negative battery terminal is directly connected to the chassis anyway. Although funnily enough, I've often heard advice to connect the negative directly to the engine when jump starting. I suppose that is just in case there is a problem with earth continuity between the car battery and the engine, but I would have thought that unlikely in most cases.
30a supply for $20 - that was a bargain! I thought the one I got on eBay (UK) for £60 was reasonable! Seems I was done
It is brand new though and is actually designed for Ham Radio equipment so should be decent quality. Voltage adjustable a few volts either side of 12v, so I'm hoping it will work fine 🤞
08-24-2021, 10:11 AM
