Oil Change and differential fluid change
#1
12-05-2023, 05:46 PM
Oil Change and differential fluid change
Hi everyone new to forum just bought a Jaguar XJL 2015 114 000kms going to be doing a tune up soon and have some questions do I used recommended oil 0w20? Canada so temps will be freezing soon Mobil 1 Advanced fuel economy how much oil does this engine take V6 3.0 AWD 7 liters? also I want to change the differential fluid there is two differentials on this car? one in the front and one in the rear is there a DIY tread on replacing differential fluid ? Thanks
#2
12-05-2023, 07:24 PM
Senior Member
Asking about oil is a bit like discussing religion, seeing as though you asked i will tell of what i have done.
There will be a great multitude that will tell you to use the Castrol oil from jaguar and use NOTHING else, well that is fine, regarding all oils the best oil is the one that is changed regularly along with the oil filter.
In addition the oil galleries inside the AJ V8 are tiny in some areas, having a lower viscosity certaily help keeps oil in these areas where it needs to be, we see plenty regarding the Euro oil levels of approval increasing due to emissions, and thinner oils certainly benefit the rotating assemblies ability to run freely.
I did my research regarding the matter on oils, and found this site BITOG: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/
Plenty of people love the guy and his research from street guys, track racers and strip racers, and as with religion plenty of people hate it. You will find extensive lists of oil testing profiles across literally hundreds of oils, viscosities and brands.from memory the V8 is around 7.5 littres there abouts, unsure about the V6.
Use an oil extracor if you like, most will recommend them, there are pros and cons to this as. It also depends on the sump plug height and location on the sump if you dont use it as i do but regardless of either method of extraction, i recommend to flush the sump with fresh oil, dont be lazy, dont think that using an extractor is getting 100% of old oil, regardless of what method you use, buy enough oil to flush the pan of residues from previous fill, For your first fill, buy a replacement sump plug and washer if your oil is black( THAT IS BAAAD!!!) and you have residues on your internals,(varnish deposits from cheap oil) quick check at the oil fill cap will show it use a torch and look down into the timing gear and front of engine block, it should look shiny like new, you can use a flush additive, but keep in mind there are negatives to using these additives as well, ensure your engine is warm before you drain, fill by the manuals quoted fill and leave it short by 200 ml or there abouts. Get your removed articles eg sump plug, engine and transmission cover back into place and return to level ground from the ramps. Run the engine then use the onboard computer to assist in your final fill level, take your time dont go guns blazing.
I scrapped the Castrol Original fill, i now use Amsoil Signature series 0W-20.
When you reference this oil on Bitog ( Bob is the Oil Guy) research you will find it has the highest film strength excellent shear strength, pressure and teperature rating of any oil available in the 0w-20 range in my research at the time.
NO Advertising has EVER led me to decide on what is best, RESEARCH!!! Nor forum members regardless of age and experience.
.
Now prepare for the beating down from forum members, i am not going to go any further, the following posts will be recommendations of all sorts, from racing oils, purple garbage literally all kinds, i strongly urge you to do you due diligence and be making up your OWN MIND by way of research that deals with FACTS and scientific testing, not pretty colour oils and bottles with stickers made for children.
So i made up my mind after extensive research, dont believe the garbage on branded labels, buy your oil on its performance without friction modifiers needing to be added if possible.
Fully synthetic oil is expensive, but i will never look back for this engine, it serves very well and shuts up the clatter from the VVT system, well it has on my V8 supercharged anyway.
I will let someone else come forward to help with diff fluids on a dual diff V6 as i have RWD only, but again you can research these too.
Best of luck, welcome to the owners club, enjoy!!!!
There will be a great multitude that will tell you to use the Castrol oil from jaguar and use NOTHING else, well that is fine, regarding all oils the best oil is the one that is changed regularly along with the oil filter.
In addition the oil galleries inside the AJ V8 are tiny in some areas, having a lower viscosity certaily help keeps oil in these areas where it needs to be, we see plenty regarding the Euro oil levels of approval increasing due to emissions, and thinner oils certainly benefit the rotating assemblies ability to run freely.
I did my research regarding the matter on oils, and found this site BITOG: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/
Plenty of people love the guy and his research from street guys, track racers and strip racers, and as with religion plenty of people hate it. You will find extensive lists of oil testing profiles across literally hundreds of oils, viscosities and brands.from memory the V8 is around 7.5 littres there abouts, unsure about the V6.
Use an oil extracor if you like, most will recommend them, there are pros and cons to this as. It also depends on the sump plug height and location on the sump if you dont use it as i do but regardless of either method of extraction, i recommend to flush the sump with fresh oil, dont be lazy, dont think that using an extractor is getting 100% of old oil, regardless of what method you use, buy enough oil to flush the pan of residues from previous fill, For your first fill, buy a replacement sump plug and washer if your oil is black( THAT IS BAAAD!!!) and you have residues on your internals,(varnish deposits from cheap oil) quick check at the oil fill cap will show it use a torch and look down into the timing gear and front of engine block, it should look shiny like new, you can use a flush additive, but keep in mind there are negatives to using these additives as well, ensure your engine is warm before you drain, fill by the manuals quoted fill and leave it short by 200 ml or there abouts. Get your removed articles eg sump plug, engine and transmission cover back into place and return to level ground from the ramps. Run the engine then use the onboard computer to assist in your final fill level, take your time dont go guns blazing.
I scrapped the Castrol Original fill, i now use Amsoil Signature series 0W-20.
When you reference this oil on Bitog ( Bob is the Oil Guy) research you will find it has the highest film strength excellent shear strength, pressure and teperature rating of any oil available in the 0w-20 range in my research at the time.
NO Advertising has EVER led me to decide on what is best, RESEARCH!!! Nor forum members regardless of age and experience.
.
Now prepare for the beating down from forum members, i am not going to go any further, the following posts will be recommendations of all sorts, from racing oils, purple garbage literally all kinds, i strongly urge you to do you due diligence and be making up your OWN MIND by way of research that deals with FACTS and scientific testing, not pretty colour oils and bottles with stickers made for children.
So i made up my mind after extensive research, dont believe the garbage on branded labels, buy your oil on its performance without friction modifiers needing to be added if possible.
Fully synthetic oil is expensive, but i will never look back for this engine, it serves very well and shuts up the clatter from the VVT system, well it has on my V8 supercharged anyway.
I will let someone else come forward to help with diff fluids on a dual diff V6 as i have RWD only, but again you can research these too.
Best of luck, welcome to the owners club, enjoy!!!!
Last edited by Lightspeed; 12-05-2023 at 07:37 PM.
The following users liked this post:
JaguarXJL15 (12-06-2023)
#3
12-05-2023, 09:15 PM
Veteran Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 8,474
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Just two pieces of advice:
1. The AWD version takes 6.5 litres of engine oil while the RWD version takes 7.25 litres. Very very very common for stoopid dealerships to overfill the AWD version by whacking 7.25 litres in.
2. Ignore the JLR specified oil change interval of 12 months or 16,000 miles/26,000 km whichever comes first, that is WAAAAY too long for these engines. Instead change the oil at least twice as often as that i.e. 6 months or 13,000 km.
1. The AWD version takes 6.5 litres of engine oil while the RWD version takes 7.25 litres. Very very very common for stoopid dealerships to overfill the AWD version by whacking 7.25 litres in.
2. Ignore the JLR specified oil change interval of 12 months or 16,000 miles/26,000 km whichever comes first, that is WAAAAY too long for these engines. Instead change the oil at least twice as often as that i.e. 6 months or 13,000 km.
#4
12-06-2023, 04:18 PM
Just two pieces of advice:
1. The AWD version takes 6.5 litres of engine oil while the RWD version takes 7.25 litres. Very very very common for stoopid dealerships to overfill the AWD version by whacking 7.25 litres in.
2. Ignore the JLR specified oil change interval of 12 months or 16,000 miles/26,000 km whichever comes first, that is WAAAAY too long for these engines. Instead change the oil at least twice as often as that i.e. 6 months or 13,000 km.
1. The AWD version takes 6.5 litres of engine oil while the RWD version takes 7.25 litres. Very very very common for stoopid dealerships to overfill the AWD version by whacking 7.25 litres in.
2. Ignore the JLR specified oil change interval of 12 months or 16,000 miles/26,000 km whichever comes first, that is WAAAAY too long for these engines. Instead change the oil at least twice as often as that i.e. 6 months or 13,000 km.
#5
12-06-2023, 04:31 PM
#6
12-06-2023, 04:33 PM
Asking about oil is a bit like discussing religion, seeing as though you asked i will tell of what i have done.
There will be a great multitude that will tell you to use the Castrol oil from jaguar and use NOTHING else, well that is fine, regarding all oils the best oil is the one that is changed regularly along with the oil filter.
In addition the oil galleries inside the AJ V8 are tiny in some areas, having a lower viscosity certaily help keeps oil in these areas where it needs to be, we see plenty regarding the Euro oil levels of approval increasing due to emissions, and thinner oils certainly benefit the rotating assemblies ability to run freely.
I did my research regarding the matter on oils, and found this site BITOG: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/
Plenty of people love the guy and his research from street guys, track racers and strip racers, and as with religion plenty of people hate it. You will find extensive lists of oil testing profiles across literally hundreds of oils, viscosities and brands.from memory the V8 is around 7.5 littres there abouts, unsure about the V6.
Use an oil extracor if you like, most will recommend them, there are pros and cons to this as. It also depends on the sump plug height and location on the sump if you dont use it as i do but regardless of either method of extraction, i recommend to flush the sump with fresh oil, dont be lazy, dont think that using an extractor is getting 100% of old oil, regardless of what method you use, buy enough oil to flush the pan of residues from previous fill, For your first fill, buy a replacement sump plug and washer if your oil is black( THAT IS BAAAD!!!) and you have residues on your internals,(varnish deposits from cheap oil) quick check at the oil fill cap will show it use a torch and look down into the timing gear and front of engine block, it should look shiny like new, you can use a flush additive, but keep in mind there are negatives to using these additives as well, ensure your engine is warm before you drain, fill by the manuals quoted fill and leave it short by 200 ml or there abouts. Get your removed articles eg sump plug, engine and transmission cover back into place and return to level ground from the ramps. Run the engine then use the onboard computer to assist in your final fill level, take your time dont go guns blazing.
I scrapped the Castrol Original fill, i now use Amsoil Signature series 0W-20.
When you reference this oil on Bitog ( Bob is the Oil Guy) research you will find it has the highest film strength excellent shear strength, pressure and teperature rating of any oil available in the 0w-20 range in my research at the time.
NO Advertising has EVER led me to decide on what is best, RESEARCH!!! Nor forum members regardless of age and experience.
.
Now prepare for the beating down from forum members, i am not going to go any further, the following posts will be recommendations of all sorts, from racing oils, purple garbage literally all kinds, i strongly urge you to do you due diligence and be making up your OWN MIND by way of research that deals with FACTS and scientific testing, not pretty colour oils and bottles with stickers made for children.
So i made up my mind after extensive research, dont believe the garbage on branded labels, buy your oil on its performance without friction modifiers needing to be added if possible.
Fully synthetic oil is expensive, but i will never look back for this engine, it serves very well and shuts up the clatter from the VVT system, well it has on my V8 supercharged anyway.
I will let someone else come forward to help with diff fluids on a dual diff V6 as i have RWD only, but again you can research these too.
Best of luck, welcome to the owners club, enjoy!!!!
There will be a great multitude that will tell you to use the Castrol oil from jaguar and use NOTHING else, well that is fine, regarding all oils the best oil is the one that is changed regularly along with the oil filter.
In addition the oil galleries inside the AJ V8 are tiny in some areas, having a lower viscosity certaily help keeps oil in these areas where it needs to be, we see plenty regarding the Euro oil levels of approval increasing due to emissions, and thinner oils certainly benefit the rotating assemblies ability to run freely.
I did my research regarding the matter on oils, and found this site BITOG: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/
Plenty of people love the guy and his research from street guys, track racers and strip racers, and as with religion plenty of people hate it. You will find extensive lists of oil testing profiles across literally hundreds of oils, viscosities and brands.from memory the V8 is around 7.5 littres there abouts, unsure about the V6.
Use an oil extracor if you like, most will recommend them, there are pros and cons to this as. It also depends on the sump plug height and location on the sump if you dont use it as i do but regardless of either method of extraction, i recommend to flush the sump with fresh oil, dont be lazy, dont think that using an extractor is getting 100% of old oil, regardless of what method you use, buy enough oil to flush the pan of residues from previous fill, For your first fill, buy a replacement sump plug and washer if your oil is black( THAT IS BAAAD!!!) and you have residues on your internals,(varnish deposits from cheap oil) quick check at the oil fill cap will show it use a torch and look down into the timing gear and front of engine block, it should look shiny like new, you can use a flush additive, but keep in mind there are negatives to using these additives as well, ensure your engine is warm before you drain, fill by the manuals quoted fill and leave it short by 200 ml or there abouts. Get your removed articles eg sump plug, engine and transmission cover back into place and return to level ground from the ramps. Run the engine then use the onboard computer to assist in your final fill level, take your time dont go guns blazing.
I scrapped the Castrol Original fill, i now use Amsoil Signature series 0W-20.
When you reference this oil on Bitog ( Bob is the Oil Guy) research you will find it has the highest film strength excellent shear strength, pressure and teperature rating of any oil available in the 0w-20 range in my research at the time.
NO Advertising has EVER led me to decide on what is best, RESEARCH!!! Nor forum members regardless of age and experience.
.
Now prepare for the beating down from forum members, i am not going to go any further, the following posts will be recommendations of all sorts, from racing oils, purple garbage literally all kinds, i strongly urge you to do you due diligence and be making up your OWN MIND by way of research that deals with FACTS and scientific testing, not pretty colour oils and bottles with stickers made for children.
So i made up my mind after extensive research, dont believe the garbage on branded labels, buy your oil on its performance without friction modifiers needing to be added if possible.
Fully synthetic oil is expensive, but i will never look back for this engine, it serves very well and shuts up the clatter from the VVT system, well it has on my V8 supercharged anyway.
I will let someone else come forward to help with diff fluids on a dual diff V6 as i have RWD only, but again you can research these too.
Best of luck, welcome to the owners club, enjoy!!!!
I think what is more important is how often the oil is changed not the brand of oil unless you take the car to the track if you drive like everyone else on the streets and use crazy expensive oil what a waste of money
#7
12-07-2023, 08:42 AM
Veteran Member
I changed the rear diff oil in this thread. Get the correct oil as the E-Diff and the open diff take different fluids.
Rear Diff Oil Change
I use the engine oil that meets Jaguar specs. There are a few.
.
.
.
Rear Diff Oil Change
I use the engine oil that meets Jaguar specs. There are a few.
.
.
.
Trending Topics
#8
12-07-2023, 10:11 AM
Bit backgound for the tightened requirements for the types of engine oils:
About y.2006-2009 EU comission set an directives for usage organic (fossil) componets on oils, rubber, plastic etc. Manufacturers have to use more and more syntetic components for these materials, what in some cases have been good, (exsample tyres do not age so much anymore) but some cases not so good.
On case of plastics and oils together. they act nowdays more than before. Plastics can come britle more easyly when connected to the solvents, fuels and oils. This can be avoided by making sure that both components (oil and plastic) are most steady together by addings. Since that time preriod engine manufacturers (at least in EU) have been working with lubrication industry to make a match between plastic used in engine and oil addictives to have an goal for best neutral state between. This matters fluid automatic trannys as well, since these have plastic parts and wet friction plates in oil bath.
Modern engines have plastic parts, like inlets and chain guides, what can turn britlle by non-suitable oils. Worst exsample are some engines what have wet timing belt. (timing belt are inside on oil bath, like chain) These are known to go britlle as easy as only 2dl wrong type of oil added to the engine. Once belt start to go britlle, the pats of the belt will end in oil pump pick-up screen causing rapid and total end of whole engine by losing oil pressure. (lot of data available, here one:
)
So, Your vehicle, your money, but i would not pour anything else than recommended oil on mine. (now 185t miles / 310t km, 3.0l diesel without any other failed on engine, exept one solenoid) I would also not follow factory engine oilchange intervals, just half the distance. If you go to trackdays: Change oil before you go. Oils (even recommended) and filters are cheap and change are easy 15-20min DIY.
Enjoy your great vehicle..
About y.2006-2009 EU comission set an directives for usage organic (fossil) componets on oils, rubber, plastic etc. Manufacturers have to use more and more syntetic components for these materials, what in some cases have been good, (exsample tyres do not age so much anymore) but some cases not so good.
On case of plastics and oils together. they act nowdays more than before. Plastics can come britle more easyly when connected to the solvents, fuels and oils. This can be avoided by making sure that both components (oil and plastic) are most steady together by addings. Since that time preriod engine manufacturers (at least in EU) have been working with lubrication industry to make a match between plastic used in engine and oil addictives to have an goal for best neutral state between. This matters fluid automatic trannys as well, since these have plastic parts and wet friction plates in oil bath.
Modern engines have plastic parts, like inlets and chain guides, what can turn britlle by non-suitable oils. Worst exsample are some engines what have wet timing belt. (timing belt are inside on oil bath, like chain) These are known to go britlle as easy as only 2dl wrong type of oil added to the engine. Once belt start to go britlle, the pats of the belt will end in oil pump pick-up screen causing rapid and total end of whole engine by losing oil pressure. (lot of data available, here one:
So, Your vehicle, your money, but i would not pour anything else than recommended oil on mine. (now 185t miles / 310t km, 3.0l diesel without any other failed on engine, exept one solenoid) I would also not follow factory engine oilchange intervals, just half the distance. If you go to trackdays: Change oil before you go. Oils (even recommended) and filters are cheap and change are easy 15-20min DIY.
Enjoy your great vehicle..
Last edited by Vasara; 12-07-2023 at 10:14 AM.
#9
12-08-2023, 12:52 AM
While I don't believe its necessary to adhere to a particular brand oil, I think it's important to adhere to the Jaguar specification and of course more frequent changes than recommended.
Here's why the spec is important. I always appreciated the following info from a post.Why you should only use Castrol Edge that meets WSS-m2c925A (5w-20) or STJLR51.5122 (0w-20), (the newer specification):
Posted by Member “Queen and Country” from the UK on the F-Type Forum 02-22-2019
“Jaguar has a Patent on the cam mechanism that not a lot of folks know about. It even licenses this technology to Ford.
https://patents.google.com/patent/US7841310B2/en
Basically, if you open an engine from a regular car or even previous Jaguars, you will find that oil naturally cooks on to many surfaces. But it does not matter. These engines are fairly low tech when it comes to oil.
Your Jaguar engine gets amazing performance (low end torque) by doing things with oil that no other manufacturer does.
It’s like a Swiss watch of delicate parts. The patent above is for a small pin that slides in and out. Oil moves this pin. No other engine in the world other than JLR and Ford have it.
What do you think will happen if you use oil that cooks quickly (becomes coke). Where after you turn the engine off you have heat soak.
Your engine is not built the same as other engines.
In addition to the usual lubrication and cooling, it also needs 3 things from the oil.
1. Good cleaning abilities
2. Ability to clean after long term use.
3. Not leave too much deposit.
Also posted by Q and C
“I can explain it in a simple way.
In other cars oil is used for lubrication, cleaning and cooling only.
In our cars it’s also used for controlling the timing of the engine.”
Lastly, in the owner’s manual it reads “Castrol is "recommended" oil. WSS-m2c925A or STJLR51.5122 is the REQUIRED spec oil.
Here's why the spec is important. I always appreciated the following info from a post.Why you should only use Castrol Edge that meets WSS-m2c925A (5w-20) or STJLR51.5122 (0w-20), (the newer specification):
Posted by Member “Queen and Country” from the UK on the F-Type Forum 02-22-2019
“Jaguar has a Patent on the cam mechanism that not a lot of folks know about. It even licenses this technology to Ford.
https://patents.google.com/patent/US7841310B2/en
Basically, if you open an engine from a regular car or even previous Jaguars, you will find that oil naturally cooks on to many surfaces. But it does not matter. These engines are fairly low tech when it comes to oil.
Your Jaguar engine gets amazing performance (low end torque) by doing things with oil that no other manufacturer does.
It’s like a Swiss watch of delicate parts. The patent above is for a small pin that slides in and out. Oil moves this pin. No other engine in the world other than JLR and Ford have it.
What do you think will happen if you use oil that cooks quickly (becomes coke). Where after you turn the engine off you have heat soak.
Your engine is not built the same as other engines.
In addition to the usual lubrication and cooling, it also needs 3 things from the oil.
1. Good cleaning abilities
2. Ability to clean after long term use.
3. Not leave too much deposit.
Also posted by Q and C
“I can explain it in a simple way.
In other cars oil is used for lubrication, cleaning and cooling only.
In our cars it’s also used for controlling the timing of the engine.”
Lastly, in the owner’s manual it reads “Castrol is "recommended" oil. WSS-m2c925A or STJLR51.5122 is the REQUIRED spec oil.
The following 2 users liked this post by Freddy J:
dangoesfast (12-08-2023),
XJsss (12-08-2023)
#10
12-08-2023, 04:52 PM
#12
12-16-2023, 07:49 AM
#15
12-20-2023, 06:01 PM
Next oil change look into the below deal. I'm pretty sure it would be the same for the diff oil.
Anyone using Liqui Moly?
0W20 Special Tec LR Oil Change Kit - Liqui Moly
FCP Euro has this amazing deal and it seems the F-Type guys are using it.
LIFETIME GUARANTEE on OIL.
I called the company even after doing all the reading to verify as I just couldn't believe this amazing deal lol.
You have to buy the replacement items first and will then get reimbursed once they receive it back (you cover shipping back to them obviously).
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/jag...hle-lm20410kt2
F-Type Thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...filter-244744/
Anyone using Liqui Moly?
0W20 Special Tec LR Oil Change Kit - Liqui Moly
FCP Euro has this amazing deal and it seems the F-Type guys are using it.
LIFETIME GUARANTEE on OIL.
I called the company even after doing all the reading to verify as I just couldn't believe this amazing deal lol.
You have to buy the replacement items first and will then get reimbursed once they receive it back (you cover shipping back to them obviously).
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/jag...hle-lm20410kt2
F-Type Thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...filter-244744/
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