As many of us rebel against the Jaguar spec Castrol oil, I found a neat one that might fit the bill. It’s merely my recommendation and I do oil changes every 5000 miles. When I removed the Cam Phaser units three bolts there was thicker sludge from years of accumulation from oil that broke down and had nowhere to go. For that I don’t discourage the Jaguar spec ones but if not use a long lasting spec alternative. And change it more frequently, 10k changes are ridiculous.

 

What about Motul Specific 5122?

Widely available for $45 a gallon, and no guesswork about compatibility, as it meets the Jaguar spec.

 

Heck Jaguar has 16K drain intervals!
Agree with you and I change mine every 6K-7.5K miles.
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I know it’s been debated and not trying to raise another oil war, but when I do oil changes I need a brick and mortar close to me and in stock, and ability to return for disposal. I do oil changes from the bottom the old school way. I believe the required properties of the JLR spec to be real and not a marketing scheme.

Mobil one might be easier to obtain but it’s more expensive. Still it’s a hit or miss to availability from the US big names like Autozone, Advanced, Orileys and Walmart. I know they tend to keep this behind the counters and must be requested. A lot to be sold to shops not individuals and they charge a premium.

I rack up miles quickly, 15-20k per year. Therefore frequent changes to me is more important, as the motor ages and ring gap gets weaker and pollutants and fuel enters the crank case I rather have fresh oil than the spec oil with 15k of pollutants in it. Oil tech has diversified and its contents and detergents are crazy in all sorts of combination.

Mobil 1 ESP X2 0W20 has the STJLR.51.5122 approval. But told the Sulfur in US sold gasoline makes it less compatible and better suited for diesel use.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/th...20-voa.334027/

 

I keep 0W20 LiquiMoly on hand in a Kanban system, same way I operate with fasteners though I don't keep bolt bins at my house compared to the old shop. Always a new filter to replace the old one on the shelf 6 months, 6000 miles (not counting this year in which my previous motor leaked oil from bank 1 cylinder 1, causing it to starve)
FCP Euro delivers always on time, no issues, and I'm happy to keep giving them my business.

 

I have 40,000 on mine and have changed the oil every 5,000 with Mobile 1 and she still running smooth...

 

Regardless of make and model, if your car is still under warranty, use the manufacturer's spec oil.
If you're outside of warranty the possibilities are endless, with claims and anecdotes everywhere on the Internet. Here in the States, there's a guy who has established a pretty good following with the muscle-car crowd. He claims to be an engineer who has constructed a device that measures the relative film strength of motor oil. He says that all modern oils meeting the American Petroleum Institute "SN" rating have adequate performance in detergent, anti-oxidation, etc. In his opinion, the true measure of motor oil performance is film strength, regardless of additive package, base oil or other specifications. He's a bit long-winded, but if you have a few hours to kill, you can read his blog here
What I found interesting is that his performance rankings are viscosity-specific, not brand-specific. He has measured hundreds of motor oil samples, some with additives suggested by readers. My 2012 XJ owner's manual recommends 5W20. Quaker State Ultimate was his highest-rated in this viscosity, so that's what I'm using at annual changes with 6k miles. You may be able to find his test results on the oil you're presently using.

 

I actually took the time to read through his blog. WOW! The most interesting thing that stood out was that he says that any engine calling for the 5W20 spec can run the 5W30 as that actually offers more protection. The theory being that the 5W20 spec is only suggested by manufacturers to provide a slight increase in gas mileage and NOT engine protection.

 

I dunno.
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While I agree that auto manufacturers have enlisted several ridiculous tricks to increase fuel mileage (or rather, increase their artificial mileage test results), I must believe that engine designers calculate the dimensions of oil galleys, windage tray and passages to be optimized for a particular oil viscosity. I'm going to stick with the manual's recommended 5W20, using a quality oil and filter with 5k intervals.

 

But a 5w20 is MUCH thicker when cold than a 5w30 is when hot. Typically there's around a factor of 10 reduction between viscosity at 20C, and at 100C. Given that your engine runs fine when it's cold with 5w20, and also when it's hot, doesn't that imply it can cope with a considerable range of viscosities, and will run fine when hot with 5w30?

Typical 5w20 - viscosity from 100 cst to 10cst. So we know from 10 to 100 is OK. Typical 5w30, viscosity from 100cst to 15 cst. 15 cst is in the range we already know is OK.

 

Probably.

 

If you're changing your oil every 5000 miles, is there an oil so bad that it will hurt your engine? Also, anyone who has been to an automotive store has seen the Lucas oil additive in the gear and crank display , has anyone ever used it and did you notice any difference? In the display it seems to work really well, the question is is it really any help?
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The problem is the VVT uses oil to operate effectively, and has small passages that if contaminated, gummed up or film coating will have issues. Shear and thinning are crucial to the other parts.

 

I have posted this before and am posting again for those that still question JLRs hi spec oil requirement.

Why you should only use Castrol Edge WSS-m2c925A (5w-20) or STJLR51.5122 ((0w-20) new spec)

Posted by Member “Queen and Country” from the UK on the F-Type Forum 02-22-2019



“Jaguar has a Patent on the cam mechanism that not a lot of folks know about. It even licenses this technology to Ford.
https://patents.google.com/patent/US7841310B2/en
Basically if you open an engine from a regular car or even previous Jaguar's, you will find that oil naturally cooks on to many surfaces.
But it does not matter. These engines are fairly low tech when it comes to oil.

Your Jaguar engine get amazing performance (low end torque) by doing things with oil that no other manufacturer does.
It’s like a Swiss watch of delicate parts. The patent above is for a small pin that slides in and out. Oil moves this pin. No other engine in the world other than JLR and Ford have it.
What do you think will happen if you use oil that cooks quickly (becomes coke). Where after you turn the engine off you have heat soak.

Your engine is not built the same as other engines.
It needs just 3 things from the oil.
1. Good cleaning abilities
2. Ability to clean after long term use.
3. Not leave too much deposit.
Now you can become an engineer and figure out the perfect oil, or just use the one their engineers already blended. (WSS-m2c925A)”



Also posted by Q and C



“I can explain it in a simple way.


In other cars oil is used for lubrication, cleaning and cooling only.
In our cars it’s also used for controlling the timing of the engine.”



Lastly, in the owner’s manual it reads “Castrol is "recommended" oil. WSS-m2c925A or STJLR51.5122 is the REQUIRED spec oil.

 

I am lucky I work at Jag, and have access to bulk 0w20 needed for my engine. Seems to source oil otherwise is quite a pain here in Canada, with only a few meeting the 5122 spec (found PPU, Liqui Moly, Motul, and Total oils that do...but to find any but the PPU OTC is quite difficult and expensive)

 

Well we had one member who has now sold his Jaguar and moved on called Bigg Will. He had a 2010 XFR and ran it hard BUT he changed the oil with Walmart full synthetic (Note the label on this oil does not state that it meets the Ford or Jaguar spec?) every 2000-3000 miles. He ran the car to over 100K miles from new with zero problems including timing tensioners and also note he had the very first year of the 5.0L SC engine which has proven to have the weakest setup for the tensioners.

So I think the main problem has been Jaguar's extended drain interval which is just way too long. Change it as posted above and you will have much better luck.
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Oh I will be doing every 5k regardless, but with the correct spec oil because I do not want to take chances long term with the oil channels and valvetrain that need correct oil specs to operate effectively.

 

Agreed, my previous owner has a fleet of cars and this was his personal, but serviced it with in the same shop as the vans, the typical 4-5k on it, seen the sticker on the windshield and confirmed with him. He used non Jaguar synthetic since maybe 45k. When I did the tensioners as preventive at 95k things looked clean and tensioners were appropriate for the mileage and had not failed. VVTs were originals, I was the first one going in that deep in this engine, no VVT check engine lights or issues, car is at 100k now and planning for 200k as I drove a lot. I did find sludge trapped in the cam bolt bosses when I took the VVTs off but it’s a cavity that seems to trap oil, so not going to disregard the manufacturers original intent. For me I’ll use a high mileage oil for its properties but continue to do 4-6k intervals. As the engine ages, things are more lose and evaporative components wear out, oil contamination from carbon and fuel will be higher.

 

Why Does Michael's Jaguar Require Oil From Ford?

Dear Car Talk:

My reason for writing is that all these alphanumeric algorithmic specifications on oil these days are confusing me. I have a 2009 Jaguar XF with a 4.2-liter engine. I've owned many older Jags, but this is the first one that states I need WSS M2C913-B, which I learned is a Ford part number. But I can't find it anywhere. What oil would be safe to use in this car now?

-- Michael


Well, you've fallen into an unusual automotive black hole, Michael.

Ford owned Jaguar until 2008. Then the great recession hit, and Ford sold everything it could spare except old pairs of Henry Ford's boxer shorts. So the 2009 Jaguars were basically designed by Ford but sold by Jaguar (which was, by then, owned by the Indian conglomerate Tata).

So if you ask Jaguar for part number WSS M2C913-B, they'll tell you to go ask Ford. And if you ask Ford, they'll tell you that the 2009 Jaguar is not their problem, go ask Jaguar.

But not to worry, Michael. WSS M2C913-B is actually a Ford of Europe part number, which is why you can't find it at your local Ford dealership.

The best I can tell, it's basically a fully synthetic 5W-30 oil. And since oil specifications tend to improve over time, I think you're completely safe using any of the brand-name synthetic oils available here in the States. So a 5W-30 version of Castrol Edge or Mobil 1, to cite two examples, should be entirely safe for your Jaguar.

And it should be cheaper than flying to England once a year and coming back with a case of WSS M2C913-B in the overhead bin.

So WSS There’s nothing but a Ford parts specifications out of Europe where jaguars are from. Since most of us own used Jaguars; if you go back in time to the year that car was made then yes you should use that oil but since the first one I owned out of a half dozen it originally just listed the multi viscosity range to use based on the average temperatures where you lived. As cars have gotten more complicated oul also has become more specific but every year when they come out with new technologies they typically supersede all the old oil specs. And if you want to risk putting oil that’s years old, sometimes even decades that’s up to you. We’re told we should change our oil every year even if we haven’t surpassed the recommended mileage for a reason.

BTW—It’s a different Michael (Unless I wrote this and forgot about it! I’m OLD NOW!!)

One more note; if you go somewhere to change your oil and you say you want WSS(Whatever), they’re going to use the current oil with current specifications that meets or exceeds what you’ve asked for. You have no idea what they’re putting in your vehicle; they could just tell you they put in what you asked for—you don’t know for sure unless they put a 50 gallon drum on the counter and ask “Would you like to taste the vintage sir?!?”

Just like you know letting gas sit in your tank for a long time can cause it to break down and even have issues with water, so does oil — there’s a very specific reason you’re told to change your oil every year regardless of the mileage. So why would anyone want oil that’s more than 5 years old? In the United States federal law only requires manufacturers to have what you needed for your vehicle or parts and service for five years that’s it. Afterwards that’s entirely aftermarket unless some sellers still have oem stock.

This Information is strictly to educate fellow owners; there’s no reason to be pompous about it! That just shines a bad light on other owners that don’t have a superior attitude.

 

Do what you want, it is your car, but I will stick 5122 in my tuned XJR engine until I cannot do so anymore every 5k, and then I will put in the best 0w20 full synthetic I can.