Hi there,

On my 2016 3.0 V6, I have a check engine light, occasionally flashing. The codes P0018, P0019 (which are cam and crankshaft disagreement on Bank 2), and a P0347 which is a camshaft position sensor issue on Bank B. There are also a random set of misfire codes and the engine sounds terrible.

I'm assuming that the issue is not the crankshaft sensor, as there are no issues on the other bank.

I've ordered replacement camshaft sensors, the VVT mechanism is not one that I've seen before. Round flat solenoids, rather than the long bodied one with oil channels which my old XJ8.

Is there anything that can be done with these new solenoids to test or clean them, or is all of that internal to the head now?

Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks,
M

 

What oil are you using and how often are you changing it?
Jaguar changed from 5W-20 to 0W-20 oil several years after the new 5.0L was released. We have been told that the VVT stuff was one of the reasons due to the very small oil passages in those assemblies.

We don't see a lot of these codes but has the engine had any work done on it like tensioners before?

It also has been reported and it states this in Jaguar documents but if the VVT has been dropped it MUST be discarded. What brought this fine point out was a number of cheap brand new VVT's showing up on EBay in Jaguar packaging. When posters ask about how they could sell them so cheap it was reported that these come in trays to the Jaguar factory and if they dump/drop a tray ALL those VVT's must be discarded. They apparently were picked up and sold on EBay. Now are they bad? No one really knows.

It helps to post how many miles too if possible?
Yes they will not be the same as your old XJ8 because it had a completely different engine.
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Thanks @clubairth1 . That's a good point on the oil. I've been using the 0W20 Castrol Edge High Mileage, which I think has the seal conditioner in it. I just did an oil change today to the standard Edge 0W20.

If the solenoids are that delicate, I wonder if a channel is clogged in them. Can they be cleaned, or do they need to be replaced? I'm not aware that these would have been dropped or hit by anything recently, but it is always possible.

The car has just north of 150,000.

Thanks for your help

 

Hard to say as the small passage idea is not a fact but several people have suggested that it is a problem. You can run engine flush too. I don't know if that would be a good idea.

Hopefully one of the guys that rebuilds these engines can stop by and fill in some blanks. There have been rebuilt engines with your codes afterwards and they usually replace the VVT's.

One thing to note from your post? If the check engine light is flashing that indicates that catalytic converter damage maybe happening. So it's best to not drive with a flashing light. A solid light is the normal mode. Probably because it was miss firing which usually loads the cats with raw gas from a little to a lot depending on how bad the miss fire is (How many cylinders are miss firing) and how long you drive it that way.

When that's happening do you see any smoke out the back? Again it's usually white smoke.
With those miles have the plugs been changed? Factory says 100K plug change interval.
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Thanks, the plugs have been changed. No work on the tensioners. I hear you on the flashing check engine, that was just sitting in the driveway, so not really any significant amount of time. Hopefully it has not destroyed the cats.

I did run a liquid moly flush through before changing the oil. I'm going to drain the coolant and pull the VVTs off tomorrow and see what they look like. If nothing else there are a few in stock at dealers around me so I can easily replace them.

I'm assuming that this isn't a timing chain issue because all the failure seems limited to one bank. Is that a fair assumption?

 

With my limited knowledge of these types of problems I think yes. I agree with you since it's only throwing codes for one side of the engine.
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Just posting an update on the troubleshooting for the record, in case anyone has this issue in the future.

I replaced both camshaft sensors on Bank 2. Still getting the same issue. The workshop manual implies it could be an electrical issue. I checked all connections, continuity and for shorts. No issues there. Resistance on the old sensors was the same as on the new ones, so I'm thinking that is not the issue. Therefore they are reading correctly.

The other possibility according to the workshop manual is a stretched chain. There is a slight knocking sound coming from the front of the engine, and I'm wondering if that is a failed tensioner. There does appear to be more play in the chain than I would like (1/4" reaching through the oil fill port). So I think that is where the issue is.

The Variable Cam Timing (VCT) solenoids are not likely to be the issue here. The workshop manual says that whenever there is an erroneous reading from the camshaft sensors, the VCT system is disabled.

I will report back the actual results, but sometimes for future record it's helpful to know the troubleshooting steps too.

 

Just closing the loop on this. I replaced the timing chain and that has solved the issue. Both cams on the left bank (bank 1) were off with the exhaust bank being the biggest issue. There was significant slack in the chain on the that bank relative to the right (I could move the chain up and down significantly on the left side).

When I removed the VCT cams there was a significant amount of sludge inside of both. I first noticed this caked around the threads of the bolts as I removed them. I've been running with Castrol Edge 0/20 High Mileage for years, and wonder whether that sludge is due to something in there. I've switched back to the standard 0/20W now.

I followed the service manual procedure exactly, except for removing the fuel distribution pipes on the right side. If you remove the screws attaching the line to the right head, there is just enough space to slip the valve cover out from underneath it. The service manual shows removing the alternator, the engine mount and jacking the engine up to remove all of the fuel lines first.

One of the more complex DIY jobs I've done. It does require the special tool to remove the crankshaft pulley.

Hope this issue doesn't come up for anyone else.

 

Congratulations on completing this difficult job. Way above my pay grade! Took me all day and a pound of flesh to replace an Odyssey alternator and tensioner.
I think high-mileage oils advertise an additive that reduces or prevents oil leaks. Perhaps that contributed to your gunk. Regardless, good advice on avoiding specialty oils in the Jag.

 

How often was the oil changed?
Factory drain intervals? I hope not!

Thanks for the tip about the cam cover. Sounds like a great short cut!
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