Hi all,

I've found some info on this symptom of a P0236 throwing a CEL, on the XF/XFR forums. I can't find any vacuum leaks after slowly going thru air inlet joints.

My scanner can't really read boost pressure, and not sure I trust TorquePro to accurately read. Anyone have experience with troubleshooting this further or have had a similar problem? Further discussion indicates looking at manifold inlet gaskets and MAP sensors (front & rear). The weird part is that about 3 months after I got the car, I had the code pop up after a Fall ambient temp. drop. I cleared it and it didn't come back until about 7 months later. Now, if I clear it, usually comes back in a week, I think it throws after the average pressure is out of range which might explain that. Just not sure what is failing.

I have 46k miles.

It gets a little messy, as I think I have a power steering fluid leak and a motor mount that is failing. Both of those issues are getting looked at tomorrow at the shop. I've already confirmed the drivers side motor mount has been leaking and was able to get some dye in the PS fluid to trace where it's coming from.

If anyone has any experience with this, helps to have other opinions!
Thanks

 

I had this code, it was my air intake filters needed to be replaced. Replace both simultaneously with the same brand so there is no difference in air resistance. I used purolator brand from pep boys.

Hope that solves your problem

 

Thanks for the feedback. I have 2 OEM filters in my closet that I received on Monday because it's due at 45k. They were replaced at 30k by the previous dealer but I figured I'd change early. Hope that solves the problem also, I'm installing tonight before I bring it in tomorrow. I'll keep this thread updated.

 

OEM Jaguar engine air filters are packaged and sold in a matching set of two. You can buy aftermarket air filters that will fit, but don't be surprised if you get a CEL. See https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...esolved-92749/ particularly Brutal's Post #8, copied below:

This applies to both 5.0L and 4.2L engines.

 

Hi Stuart,

I agree it is technically possible that filter batch differences could create a problem, but in that thread it looks like the CEL problem persisted until the MAF sensor was replaced. I’m hesitant to only recommend Jaguar filters as I haven’t personally noticed any problem with aftermarket ones, only dirty/ old ones.

IMHO I think differences between batches of the same filter are probably pretty small assuming they are both new. Decent manufacturers do QC tests on each batch to verify equitable performance of things like filters before selling them. Also you are likely to get the same batch if you buy two filters from the same store at the same time. The bigger issue IMHO, is using two different brand/types of filters as they are not likely tested to be within the same performance specification.

Personally, my filters had visible amounts of dirt on them when the CEL light came on. I changed them with new ones (again probably from the same batch as I bought them together), and the CEL stayed off. I have changed them twice now with Purolator brand ones and have never had a problem since.

All the best.

 

Thanks for the feedback, both. The car is at the dealer now for the next couple weeks, as they are replacing my motor mounts under extended warranty and chasing a power steering leak.

I replaced both filters and noticed the following: Old filter seals were pretty low. New filter seals much better. The RH (pass. side) airbox was missing a fastener and it looks like had a couple lower threads stripped. The code didn't return after I replaced both filters but usually it would pop up after a couple weeks of driving or a big temperature swing. When I get it back I plan to replace the assembly with a used airbox to the tune of $150 or so, as it's clearly not sealing properly.

 

Sort of related, I do have a confirmed rack leak (OEM PN C2D2613). Expensive. I don't really want to target putting in the wrong part. Anyone know if Bosch manufactures these? On a plus side both motor mounts are getting replaced at someone else's expense.

I expect my check engine light will be solved when I get the car back, but I'll update when I do.

 

I'm not sure about the part numbers, but I am also about to do both engine mounts on my car. Apparently my drivers side is completely done for. If I remember hearing about the process correctly, replacing the engine mounts requires removal of the rack anyway. If this is the case, you might want to ask that the warranty-covered labor to do the engine mounts contribute toward the rack replacement too. Presumably you are only paying for parts then.

All the best.

 

Good luck. Yes, they are covering all labor, but want to use a non OEM part for the rack. My gut tells me Bosch manufactures the steering under some kind of brand labeling agreement with Jaguar. I don't have my car so I can't look to see if there's any indication of that.

 

From a quick look around, I think you are right (PN KS00002076). I don’t see any other big manufacturer selling one. On the Bosch website they also say it has identical fit to OE. So it’s probably a good chance it’s the same. BTW if your dealership is letting you use outside parts, that’s awesome!

 

Oh no, they might allow the use of a non OEM but they probably don't want to. Haven't crossed that bridge yet.

 

Update on my car: Steering rack being replaced, motor mounts being replaced. Total cost to me ~$2,200. I had to help the dealership parts people find a source for a part since they were going to charge me like 3.3k for the rack. I probably won't be returning to this dealership in the future.

My last experience (JLR Peoria, Illinois) was fantastic. Not so much in Wisconsin.

 

Glad to hear it is getting done and that the price is fairly reasonable. BTW is the P0236 code gone now, or are you still in the process of replacing your air boxes?

All the best.

 

I am getting my car back next week, so I'll see how it goes. I probably will replace the RH side air box.

 

Tried to edit this post, my issue was resolved with the filter replacements. I will be replacing my passenger side air box, as I found the stripped screws most likely had to do with some shady reselling tactics from the dealer in Dallas I bought this car from. Or a poor repair by previous owner. I noticed some glue marks on the air box, only after disassembling the air box assembly, noticing that the marks "lined up". I do not like that all.

 

Glad to hear the code is still gone. I too would opt to replace the air box: glue has no place in an engine bay.

All the best.