Please HELP! P006A Restricted Performance!!
#1
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Hello experts!
My 2010 XJ suddenly went into restricted performance mode with the code P006A being detected via ODB2.
So - I took it to a local garage that I have used for years and until now they have been great.
Here is what they did...
1) Smoke test showed crack in passenger side manifold
2) Passenger side manifold replaced - P006A issue remained!
3) Intercooler replaced - P006A issue remained!
4) MAP sensor replaced P006A issue remained!
5) Further Smoke test shows NO leaks
£730 later and I still have the P006A restricted performance issue, which comes on when I put my foot down.They have basically given up, but they insist that I did have a split in the manifold, so that's what I paid £730 for and of course I cannot prove otherwise.The intercooler and MAP sensor they say they covered the cost for.
Their parting comment was to say that it could be actuator within the turbo, but they did not want to do any more work on the car, so I have the car back and I'm left to try and find another garage to take it on.
Do any of you guys have any thoughts or suggestions please?
My 2010 XJ suddenly went into restricted performance mode with the code P006A being detected via ODB2.
So - I took it to a local garage that I have used for years and until now they have been great.
Here is what they did...
1) Smoke test showed crack in passenger side manifold
2) Passenger side manifold replaced - P006A issue remained!
3) Intercooler replaced - P006A issue remained!
4) MAP sensor replaced P006A issue remained!
5) Further Smoke test shows NO leaks
£730 later and I still have the P006A restricted performance issue, which comes on when I put my foot down.They have basically given up, but they insist that I did have a split in the manifold, so that's what I paid £730 for and of course I cannot prove otherwise.The intercooler and MAP sensor they say they covered the cost for.
Their parting comment was to say that it could be actuator within the turbo, but they did not want to do any more work on the car, so I have the car back and I'm left to try and find another garage to take it on.
Do any of you guys have any thoughts or suggestions please?
#2
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I see you must be in the uk , yes the dreaded diesel versions suffer badly ... normally when 1 manifold goes the other is not far behind, and there fore it is advised to get them both done . You really need to get this car to an independent jaguar specialist pronto , they should fix this no problem as will have the proper diagnostics. Good luck
#3
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Many thanks for your reply! They have claimed to have carried out a further smoke test and they could not see any leaks, so if this is the case the other manifold should be ok. So are you suggesting that a Jag dealer would have access to more info to pinpoint the cause, over and above the P006A ODB2 code?
#4
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Hello,
You might have an leak on O-ring between manifolds to the Y section (throtle body) or Y- section to the plastic part just before. (top front of the engine, where air makes 90 degree towards to the engine. (don´t know correct name for it) O-ring leak do not nessesary show up in smoke test, because of low pressure.
There might be also partally crack on seams of the plastic parts, what might not show on smoke tests. (gasoline engine owners are very familar with this issue, since the early water piping are exteremey problematic by plastic parts joined together and they do crack easyly causing leaks)
You might have an leak on O-ring between manifolds to the Y section (throtle body) or Y- section to the plastic part just before. (top front of the engine, where air makes 90 degree towards to the engine. (don´t know correct name for it) O-ring leak do not nessesary show up in smoke test, because of low pressure.
There might be also partally crack on seams of the plastic parts, what might not show on smoke tests. (gasoline engine owners are very familar with this issue, since the early water piping are exteremey problematic by plastic parts joined together and they do crack easyly causing leaks)
#5
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Many thanks for your reply! They have claimed to have carried out a further smoke test and they could not see any leaks, so if this is the case the other manifold should be ok. So are you suggesting that a Jag dealer would have access to more info to pinpoint the cause, over and above the P006A ODB2 code?
#6
#7
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#8
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The Jag Specialist in Doncaster has a good reputation. Contact details here:
https://www.thejagspecialist.com//
Graham
https://www.thejagspecialist.com//
Graham
#10
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Chris at the jag centre gets a fantastic good name , the turbos are another problem also the throttle body gets blocked by horrible black grunge from this terrible fuel called diesel , also the small maf sensor gets blocked with the same , when you think about why people buy diesel cars and the problems they have to face all because to save a few pence per mile . Is it worth it .
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#11
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Chris at the jag centre gets a fantastic good name , the turbos are another problem also the throttle body gets blocked by horrible black grunge from this terrible fuel called diesel , also the small maf sensor gets blocked with the same , when you think about why people buy diesel cars and the problems they have to face all because to save a few pence per mile . Is it worth it .![Embarrassment](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/redface.gif)
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#12
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Just an small correction: Diesel fuel do not enter to the throtle body or MAF:s. If they do, then there are really serious problems
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Use correct engine oil, change them in at least 9k miles, and you don´t have a problem. I still have original parts on my engine, never needed to clean MAP or throthlebody, since they are clean as whistle after 184k miles.
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wombat (10-29-2022)
#13
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Hi George05
Just an small correction: Diesel fuel do not enter to the throtle body or MAF:s. If they do, then there are really serious problems
You propably mean MAP sensor sitting over the throtlebody? Well, the fuel do not enter there either. What happens are engine oil / oil fumes and exhaust particles from EGR circulation mix and dry up together for nasty goo and stick inside of inlets. It is matter of the oil quality and specks how it handles the situtation of drying up and turning to the goo.
Use correct engine oil, change them in at least 9k miles, and you don´t have a problem. I still have original parts on my engine, never needed to clean MAP or throthlebody, since they are clean as whistle after 184k miles.
Just an small correction: Diesel fuel do not enter to the throtle body or MAF:s. If they do, then there are really serious problems
![Icon Mrgreen](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_mrgreen.gif)
Use correct engine oil, change them in at least 9k miles, and you don´t have a problem. I still have original parts on my engine, never needed to clean MAP or throthlebody, since they are clean as whistle after 184k miles.
#14
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Note: There are a trick for 2015- vehicles to improve DPF burn cycle what will almost totally cure the oil dillution issue. The trick will make burn cycle happening much shorter ignition time and last shorter time. Costs are about 20 bucks and DIY:able. (ofcource works on pre 2016 vehicles as well)
#15
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So it is for the threat starter too, since he have also 2010 model.
Note: There are a trick for 2015- vehicles to improve DPF burn cycle what will almost totally cure the oil dillution issue. The trick will make burn cycle happening much shorter ignition time and last shorter time. Costs are about 20 bucks and DIY:able. (ofcource works on pre 2016 vehicles as well)
Note: There are a trick for 2015- vehicles to improve DPF burn cycle what will almost totally cure the oil dillution issue. The trick will make burn cycle happening much shorter ignition time and last shorter time. Costs are about 20 bucks and DIY:able. (ofcource works on pre 2016 vehicles as well)
#16
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As you may know the XJ (x351) are so called medium coupler platform for DPF desing. That means that DPF are not right next to the catalysator. So it will take time to get heat from catalysator down to DPF for the burn process. A downhill will halt the process. A traffic stop will halt the process. Every time burn process are halted, the system will start from beginning. During the burn process an unburned diesel fuel will enter to the engine oil, passing piston rings.
We can´t move the DPF closer to the Cat, because there are no room. (This same issue effects some ther rear wheel driven vehicles as well equip with V6 or V8 diesels. so Jaguar are not alone)
The trick is simple: Get heat faster down the pipe after catalysator by insulating the pipe with heat shield insulation like this: You only need to insulate the catalysator side of the exhaust pipe (left).
The DPF will heat up much faster and finish the burn faster = Shorter burn cycle = Less oil dillution.
We can´t move the DPF closer to the Cat, because there are no room. (This same issue effects some ther rear wheel driven vehicles as well equip with V6 or V8 diesels. so Jaguar are not alone)
The trick is simple: Get heat faster down the pipe after catalysator by insulating the pipe with heat shield insulation like this: You only need to insulate the catalysator side of the exhaust pipe (left).
The DPF will heat up much faster and finish the burn faster = Shorter burn cycle = Less oil dillution.
#17
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Could be a good trick vasra . i had 2 x351 diesel cars , first was a 60 reg had it for 3 years only minor issues like bonnet alarm let it down , but say once a month i had an amber warning flash up DPF full , so had to take the car a good sprited run for 20 mile and it cleared , changed car for a black portfolio 64 reg low miles , in 3 years never had any problems inc any DPF warnings flash up , want to know why ? every tank full i put in a bottle of whynns DPF cleaner , it lowers the DPF burn off from 1200c to 600c
sold that car with less than 25,000 as i get the itch after 3 years to a change of car , next was an xkr then an aston and ftype now the xj v6 petrol , love it still have the aston for summer use . who said plumbing dont pay
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#18
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George05
I newer seen an DPF warning on my dash. However: I mainly drive long journeys.
Long time ago i had an first production vehicle with DPF (Peugeot 607, MY2000), and that used an ELOYS fuel addictive from separate smal tank, pretty much like AdBlue have separate tank, but one fill of ELOYS last 150k miles. ELOYS was used to lower the needed temperature for DPF burning. I never had problems with 607 either. When i let it go it had +500 000km on clock (+312k miles) No idea why manufacturers do not use anymore this kind of systems? Maybe too expensive and complicated?
We have extremely high import tax for road vehicles here. Vehicles are about dfouble of prices what i see in sale in UK. But the tax are only set when vehicle are registered for road use, so vehicles used in racing dont have the tax. Raced in different classes about 15 years, in different classes, so I used to have lot of them.
And a full size bus to carry them around. No road vehicle are even close for peak race car in driveablebility or performance. Thats why i am Ok with diesel XJ.
Sendel:
You might have stuck or weak boost pressure solenoid valve. It is located on front low of the enginebay. You can see the valve if you watch down on front left of the engine bay (whatched from front of the car). You might need to bend or remove the input pressure hose to have more room. There are red hose connected right under the valve. Weak solenoid could explain why you got code only on high boost. If you have small hands and long tools with flexible joints you maybe could change it from top?
Found replacement valves on eBay:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403859199...3ABFBM5JeZy4lh
Your local parts shop might have this on shelf as well, since it is quite common part. Original part have markings FoMoCo I-09I078 451 75 S01 5872
I newer seen an DPF warning on my dash. However: I mainly drive long journeys.
Long time ago i had an first production vehicle with DPF (Peugeot 607, MY2000), and that used an ELOYS fuel addictive from separate smal tank, pretty much like AdBlue have separate tank, but one fill of ELOYS last 150k miles. ELOYS was used to lower the needed temperature for DPF burning. I never had problems with 607 either. When i let it go it had +500 000km on clock (+312k miles) No idea why manufacturers do not use anymore this kind of systems? Maybe too expensive and complicated?
We have extremely high import tax for road vehicles here. Vehicles are about dfouble of prices what i see in sale in UK. But the tax are only set when vehicle are registered for road use, so vehicles used in racing dont have the tax. Raced in different classes about 15 years, in different classes, so I used to have lot of them.
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Sendel:
You might have stuck or weak boost pressure solenoid valve. It is located on front low of the enginebay. You can see the valve if you watch down on front left of the engine bay (whatched from front of the car). You might need to bend or remove the input pressure hose to have more room. There are red hose connected right under the valve. Weak solenoid could explain why you got code only on high boost. If you have small hands and long tools with flexible joints you maybe could change it from top?
Found replacement valves on eBay:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403859199...3ABFBM5JeZy4lh
Your local parts shop might have this on shelf as well, since it is quite common part. Original part have markings FoMoCo I-09I078 451 75 S01 5872
#20
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