Hi guys
Again with the jittery steering wheel.
After the scan with I Icarsoft... The fool codesU0415-00 intermitentinvalid data from abs
U0300-51 permanent. Ineternal control module software incompatibility
B1d21-13 intermittent remote control switch
U0140-00 Intermitent, lost communication with bodycontrol module
U0156-00 intermittent, lost com with information center a
Do t know if has anything to do with this codes.
So. Lower banana arm, upper arm, pivot, brand new. Lemforder. Did the steering rack, professionally redone. New oil plastic jar for fluid. No leeks. Ravenol oil…. Not sure about that ****. No obvious errors.
Still jitters like hell on uneven surface. Pot holes, bad road, Even seems sometimes like its changing direction against my steering movement for split second…... . On wavy roads…. As soon as it gets the wave in tarmac it just want to go that way. On flat….. Stationary, steering is very precise, 1 cm of steering wheel movement and the wheel reacts. Spot on.
Only in iddle, stationary, as soon as I turn the wheel, rpms drop almost 100 RPMs.

So…. I have 2 possible causes. 1 bad pump… random behaviour…. And even sudden change in direction. 2 bad strut mounts. And that antinoise yellow sponge under them.
Can you help me with some ideas? About both of them? How to check without dismantleing every thing? And you help me with ideas about strut mounts? Or any other Ideea?
I have a “brand new SH pump” like mat Armstrong is saying…..

Ps: when I changed the banana arms, didn't change the bushing Ont the thin end. Could be that? Mot guys…,. 3 shops, told me all is ok with the arms. Different set of rims and tires, same behaviour. New and old. Same move.

To be honest, steering wheel seems very easy to turn, easyer than W211, it's like a golf 5.
Please help.

 

so.....again on the steering problem.
let me do a recap:
changed the following: banana arm, upper arm, lower pivot, steering arms, swaybar links. all new, lemforder. refurb of steering rack, new plastic bottle for fluid, ravenol oil. the oil still bubbles in the plastic jar. 100rpm drop in iddle when stationary and turning the steering wheel, even if just a minim 2..3 cm in steering wheel movement. on the upside, any move in steering wheel is immediately on the wheel. on any flat road surface, steering is flawless. sharp, immediate, no problem.
on wavy road, wavy tarmac surface.......it starts to make sudden and surprising direction shifts. some with body roll movement, opposite the movement of the steering wheel. on some situations, on potholes , holes in road surface, can feel some metal movement, when the wheel recovers from the jumping movement .
again, regardless the speed, on wave surface, it just bites on the wave in the tarmac and starts to go that way without steering wheel movement. on stone paved road, any rock it steps on, moves the steering wheel, it dances left and wright. so....very sensible.
i had some shaking steering wheel on 80---110 km.... with or without braking, some rapid shaking but not profound, felt in steering wheel, as a consequence of not flat tarmac. if i try to handle the steering wheel in that case, i can feel thru steering wheel something is shaking in front of the car, some like bushing but not sure.
so.....a range of weird movements.
what could be the problem......so i have some ideas.
1. damper strut mount. that modifies the wheel angle if bad, and the end of the strut plays in the strut mount. even sponge damper problem under the strut mount.
2. steering pump problem. i have a brand new second hand pump. the way it changes direction of the yanking of the directions ....might be a loss and recover in pressure.....that lets go of steering power and recover immediately? is that possible? i have i carsoft in hands, v3 , can scan for something on pump or sensors????? does anyone did that? can be done? please.....some guys with experience...helpppppp
3.....and less probable in my opinion..... lower arm bushing, that links to banana arm andddddddd bushing that links to the end of the damper. why not probable? because 3 shops and MOT guys said no problem there. wheels balanced, old tyre nbew tire....same problem...... .
regardless the speed, driving mode, steering wheel feels the same, not a moment of hard steering , like because of driving dynamic . or direction hardened because of high speed. feels the same. reely fast and sharp..... and i was expecting to get harder in some conditions.

i have, sometimes, when turning under braking, not hy speed, and on a incline, some crrrrr noise, that seemed to come from under the bonnet, my opinion its the strut mounts. on the shifting damper ideea movement.

so.......any of you guys had problems with strut mounts/. ???? steering pump problem pressure loss? active suspension problem>?

scanned with lrv3 icarsoft.....
u0415-00 intermittent, invalid data received from abs control module
u0300-51 permanent,internal control module software incompatibility
u0140-00 intermittent , lost communication with body control module.
u0156-00 intermittent, lost communication with information center a

not sure about those.....can someone help?
some ideas?
some experience?
some ideas and experience with testing via icarsoft lrv3?

 

Danu99: Do you have 4wd?

 

No sir. Rear wheel drive

 

Ok. I would suspect the dryed up front CV joints, but rear wheel drive vehicle don´t have them. The steering of the x351 is fast and accuracy comparing most of the another vehicle of its size, but should not behave like you describe.

 

What about my ideas? Pump? Shock mount?
No errors what so ever….. So… must be mechanical.

 

I will change the pump, event the plastic sponge and strut mount assembly (400euro front and 400 euro real without labor) and lower arm bushings…….
May be spring wheel sensor? Or the pressure sensor on the pump?
Can I check in any way.……

 

First clear all codes and see what comes back. As you know U codes are network codes and I NEVER trust them until they repeat. The reason is it's not uncommon for networks to throw random errors due to power fluctuations/data collisions. Plus networks are designed to handle a certain level of errors anyway so some of those U codes are to be expected over time.

If fact just like miss fires no network codes will be set until the system see's the problem multiple times. They are statistical based measurements again because the system will see miss fires and network errors on a regular basis. It matter's how bad they are before codes will be set.

One concern I see is you don't post either a P1000 or P1111 code. Your car will have either one everytime it's scanned. So if you are not seeing those codes. Something is wrong?
If you clear the codes you should immediately have P1000 which indicates the monitors are NOT set and the car will not pass emission testing until they are set.

Good parts replacement but I don't see where the front end alignment has been checked? We went thru the rack sensor above? Have you unplugged it to see what happens?
Can you post what alignment numbers your car currently has?

Upper strut mount failure will really make a LOT of noise and usually you will think it's coming from the dash. So you could change them? Not terribly expensive and fairly easy to change. You mentioned the foam? Is it crumbling? Is the strut rod still centered in the mounting hole? Usually both of those things happen when they fail.
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So…. Different scanners no P error. Done a couple with Icarsoft... Myself, and no p error. In addition to those above there is a error for dash screen fan intermittent. And that's about that. Had some scanes done at the real shop. No p error. Passed mot with good marks, the tech even said it has good emissions.
Of course I had the alignment done… several times, after every time I changed parts in front. The steering Rach professional shop did one, other shops after, no change. About the numbers….. I looked every time the did it and all angles were in green and similar left to wright.
About the strut mounts. Parts and labor is about 1000 euro. Yes…. 1000. Front and back. Will change the front, after I order parts from uk because what's 30 pounds in uk here is 120 euro.
The center of the strut seems to be aligned where the hight sensor is located. I took the sensornout and seems ok. But I do believe they are original ones, 190.000 km and from 2010. So…. Probably need change.
I am not a mechanic…. But I always stay with the car in the shop, and ask them and study the cars situation. And have some knowledge. I have over 600.000km as a driver, multiple cars of course, and I do feel what happens with the car. …..
I really have no further ideas... About the problem, beside mounts, pump and pump sensor.
Une detail…. When I had the steering rack done for leeks and overhauled in a professional shop, they added ravenol steering oil. For 30 km….. The pump make a incredible noise, over the noise of the engine. With the bonnet up, couldn't hear the engine because of the pump noise. E great big continuous wind…… like metal on metal. The second day it stopped . For good
So…. Ideas? Advice?
Thanks for the response

 

Another thing…. I took today every system, one by one, with lrv3…… those are the errors. Everything said passed no error. Not just a direct system scanes.…. One by one individual system scan. Because I wanted to check what v3 does and I want to relearn some systems like ride height and glass roof panel.Nothing else then the errors presented

 

Changed today the pump… and oil. Maybe…. A 20 % reduction n symptoms


Strut mounts seem ok…. I am fresh out of ideas.

 

Yeah….. So…. New follow up.
This week I changed the pump with brand new sh one. Told you guys about a 20% improvement. Didn't drive the care until yesterday when I changed the winter rims and tires, with Sumer ones. So….. Problem disappeared……...
Today…. A little trip in town and….. Maybe 5% simptomps. A small small amount of jitter, regardless the tarmac surface. Almost gone.I mean…. 99% normal and perfect.
So I have couple of questions for you guys:
I changed the tyres myself. I had a problem with the floor jack on a front wheel and noticed that the studs that support the wheel had a play in them. Like there is a plate to what they are attached and they had a small 3..4 mm move along the wheel hub…. Without moving the disc. What's moving there? I took extra caution in putting the rimp on the Hub. Flat and perfectly need movement. Could someone messed up the tire change and not fitted properly the rims on the studs? Is that possible? Could that generate the movement I was complaining? Can someone explain the movement I saw with the studs?

Long story short…. Pump and oil Mobil changed.…. No revanol crap. All good now. Steering fine, o bit heavier like a know and like….no jitter….. No stupid movement…. No nothing

Does someone has a detailed schematic of whats about the wheel hub? And how the rim sits proper? Thanks in advance

 

Well first good job!
You fixed it. Sometimes things just don't make sense either?

It does sound like there might be some play or wear in the wheel hub?
With the tire jacked up off the ground. Can you grab the tire at 12 & 6 and wiggle? Next grab it at 3 and 9 and do the same thing.
If nothing is moving I don't see any problems.

Here is the front hub assembly from the wonderful JPART;



Number 2 circled is the front wheel bearing/hub and is sold as an assembly.
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Thk
And the studs go through the disk? And the brake disk is bolted to the hub? By other screw then the bolts that hold the rim?
Regarding the pump…. Yeah…. I think the old pump didn't hold continuous pressure or something.

 

Wheel studs go through the brake disc. There are no screws holding the brake disc to the hub/bearing assembly. Wheel is bolted to the hub with the brake disc in between.

 

Could be the disk moved and stuck not straight when wheels changed and that could give the erratic movements?
Not being flush to the hub….. But in a small angle to the hub?

 

Did you inspect all the parts? Are they the correct parts?

The wheel would need to be loose for the brake disc to be 'in a small angle to the hub'.

 

hub and brake disk? Guess so….. All feels good now. No noises…. Ni jitter….. Nothing funny
But the was thinking.… you know when disks are stuck to the hub, especially with this bolt that tights it all…. And with low tolerance between hub and wheel…. Maybe was not perfect aligned, but the bolt were correctly tightened. Because.… funny.…. I had old summer tyres…. Changed to brand new summer tyres, changed to winter tyres, and now again with summer tyres again…. Saw the disk moved when I was trying to fit the rim on the bolts. And I got the idea, maybe disk was a bit of alignment with the hub, but bolts were tight.

 

If the disk is not sitting flat on bearing hub, you will feel heavy pulsing thru brakes when braking and vibration thru steering. If the rim is not sitting flat on disk (disk are straight) you feel only vibration thru steering.
Brake disks are holded up an "lock" washers on the bolts, two on each if i remeber right. There are no innoying small screw what rust in and need tol be drilled out everytime disks changed. Result of this are that the disks are not so firmly on the hub, when wheel nuts are removed.
Allways check that the surfaces are clear. One small piece of stone (1mm diameter) between surfaces can hold pressure when tightening rims, but crack later and then rims are loose.
Always check that the washers are on "botton" of their groove and against the brake disk surface.
Always use correct tightening seqence for wheel nuts. (cross tigtening in steps) If one nut is tightened first full tightness, the rim might not sit correctly and can even crack or bend.
Always check if your tyres have rotation direction. Some tyres are just terrible to drive if installed against their correct direction. (they do everything to avoid going straight -> Did this once in a hurry for race car wet:s, when it started to rain just 10min before quali and i paniced. I was so far back from pole that it could be measured by calender )

 

👍👍👍 will disassemble again and take a really good look.
I asked because I had the situation when a old disk didn't want to get out of the hub and was stuck at an angle slightly.

Will disassemble the old pump and post pics here. Maybe someone sees something wrong.
After pump change all ok. I didn't check for the oil in the plastic jar is still bubleing like its boiling. Will do that to .