I am attempting to repair a pulsation under braking. I ordered a set of crossed drilled and ceramics Brembo Pads thinking that was goind to fix the problem, and while waiting for the parts to arrive, I started chasing a sway bar bushing clunk and during inspection I rotated the wheel while in the air and noticed that there was brake drag on the right side but only half of a a rotation the other half had little to no drag. I immediately thought it was a problem. Thinking a wheel bearing or maybe the aluminum spindle is bent? Not sure how that would happen usually aluminum cracks. Anyways tonight the brakes came in and I installed them still skeptical and but hopeful it was going to solve my issues. Well 200 US dollars worth of parts later I noticed the same uneven drag on when spinning the right front corner. I cleaned the hub surface best I could and went for a ride, but no dice, the pulsation under braking is still there.

The left side wheel bearing was replaced by the previous owner and the brakes the car was sold with had a lot life left, as if they were also new. Possibly an attempt to fix the pulsation issue.
Is is possible the wheel bearing can become cocked on the spindle? Anyone one experience a similar issue? I wonder if corrosion or rust has any effects on things.

Anyways at least the car has cross drilled and slotted rotors. I just need to fix the root problem.

 

Prior to replacing my discs and pads earier this week I had a slight judder under heavy/moderate braking. While I had everything apart, I cleaned and lubed the caliper guide pins (Front left ones were dry and filthy). The judder is now gone. I can't say if the pads, discs or pins were causing the judder but I suspect the pins were the root cause.

wombat

 

Hmmm yes, I have had this from a sticking piston in a caliper, and possibly it could happen due to sticking slides.

Was the wear on the old brake pads even?

 

Mark,

The old pads and discs were in pretty good shape. I only did the brake job because the judder was nagging at me (very slightly) and, if I'm honest, I was bored stupid at home, and needed an excuse to get away from my 6 yr old daughter for a few hours. Home schooling SUCKS!

wombat

 

Good advice and please remove and lubricate all the sliding pins on your brakes. This should be standard with any brake job but a lot of people just pop on pads and/or discs and let it go.
Are you happy with drilled disc's and the brake dust of those pads?

I ask because I went thru this on my last 2 Jaguars and went to ceramic pads on one car and Carbon Fiber pads on the other.
Both have way less dusting compared to factory or Brembo pads.

Spindle is steel not AL. and it would be VERY rare that you bent this without a lot of other damage.
It usually is an accident that causes this and even then it's rare,
That spindle is just very tough!
.
.
.

 

I just did the RH front hub. So the car now has two new front hubs. New rotors and Pads.

still shakes like crazy. I am thinking it’s the rear brakes or a tweaked RH front spindle. I think I will test the rear brakes with the rear in the air. I can’t fathom it’s the spindle. But at this point nothing surprises me.

 

I lifted the rear and ran the car in the air. I wish I had done this first. The problem is definitely the rear brakes. I was able to replicate the vibes in the air. I also inspecting the rear, the axle boots are torn and a couple joints have torn boots like the rear tire rod and sway bar links.

I had drilled out a broken wheel but/stud earlier on the week and managed to find another broken nut on the other side. I have my work cut out. Time to break out the drill bits again.

Couple of questions, has anyone sourced a cheaper alternative to getting the boots replaced? I’m not talking the half cut ones But actual ones to rebuild the CVs Jaguar wants over 600 a piece for axles and like 200 for a boot kit.

Another interesting question is are V8 SC axles differently than the NA engine? They show a different part number. I wonder if they are splined differently in the differential. Some used ones are worth exploring to get me back running, but SC ones are harder to find.

Also when I put the car back down the rear springs were full of air. The car didn’t level off, what’s the procedure for putting the car on a lift and the engine running. Did I mess something up?

Last question, is there a computer procedure after replacing wheel sensors? My dashboard lit up after replacing the front hub. I’m going to check the connector again to see if maybe it’s not fully plugged but I was sure it was in there pretty good. The inner fender plastic makes that connections a little bit of a bear.

Thanks for any help. I want to enjoy the car but I have to have the car 100% or my brain doesn’t stop spinning gears.

 

I had pulsating braking and did the same stuff as you. Mine became normal after upper control arm replacement, though mine was the front right wheel that was the problem. Uneven tire wear finally gave it away. Multiple alignment jobs didn’t catch it. Hope that helps.

EDIT: Forgot, another symptom of the control arms was a clunk over speed bumps/ driveway even though I had already swapped my sway bar bushings.

 

Swapped the original wheel sensor into the new hub and things went to normal after a short ride, I guess the sensor it came with had corona. Car leveled down aswell phew, waiting on the rear brakes to install and close the chapter

But need to do something about the axles. Jaguar changed the outer boot design from the accordion style to a more compact variant. I’m not sure on fitment and years. I think 2013 might be a change over year. I have the older design. Also I can’t tell if the SC are beefier. Maybe someone that works at jaguar can break down the part numbers for me.

 

I always remove the caliper pins and check them for wear. Then I clean off all the old grease as possible and relube the pins and slides with silicon grease. You want to make sure they dont stick and dont get grease on the pads or rotors.

***also VITAL***

bed in your brakes after replacing rotor and/or pads. And do this when you feel a pulsing when you brake. Beddinv the brakes puts an even coating of pad material onto the rotor. Thats vital for good and smooth braking. When you sit at a light with your foot on the brake pedal, the heat from the breaking will deposit pad material onto the rotor right underneath all the pad locations when you’re sitting at a traffic light. Overtime this can build up and result in a microscopically sicker area around the router which causes pulsation. Bedding takes care of this.

Here’s a link to how to perform the bedding break procedure
https://brakeperformance.com/bedding-in-rotors.php