Hello everyone,

So, I went ahead and purchased this car because I have always admired the style and of course the supercharged V8. I purchased it about $4k less than average price for miles (106k) and age in my area. I purchased it from a guy that buys at auction and just flips them for a quick buck, so I don't know when last service was. Is there a way I can check that in car? Cosmetically it has not been cared for and looks pretty rough. Both the black plastic pieces between the doors are broken and need to be replaced on both sides and the paint is badly damaged from someone locking themselves out of the car. One of the brushed window trim pieces is missing. A rear parking sensor. and a minor fender ding. Of course wheels are all curb rashed.

I thought it was pretty solid mechanically, but after driving it on and off for two days these codes popped up:

P2402 Evaporative Emissions System Leak; Detection pump control circuit high (three of these)
P2406 Evaporative Emissions System Leak; Detection pump sense circuit high
U0401-68 Invalid data received from engine control module/ powertrain control module
P0500-81 Vehicle speed sensor A (I have used waze with it during directions and the speedo is right on)

I have no idea what these codes mean. Can anyone shed some light?


Interior wise, I want to recondition leather and replace start button as far as obvious eye sores & the front sunroof shade doesn't work, but other than that, all is good with interior.
As of now, I know I will change oil, and trans fluid & dif. fluid. Car runs strong, but there is a hum when I put it in gear. Reminds me of power steering pump, but know it doesn't change with turning the wheel. I really only hear it when I put it in drive.
As for gremlins so far.... When lights are in 'auto' the front led lights don't turn off. I have to turn switch to off to get them to go off.
There has been twice when I start it and computer tells me bonnet is open, but it isn't. He said he did replace the battery.
Oh and coolant level low, but I know that can be sensor, or tank.

Thanks,
Dan

 

Since you've owned four other modern Jaguars, I surprised that you would purchase another from a "flipper". From your brief description of the car, I'd say it's had a rough life, and likely experienced "repairs" as opposed to "service".
With over one hundred posts, you're obviously familiar with this forum. If you Search this X351 section, you'll find (among other things) that several of the evap failures necessitate removal of the fuel tank, which first requires removal of the rear axle and suspension. Low coolant in these cars, particularly the early ones, is often water pump and related plumbing failures. You should be sitting down as you scroll through posts detailing the costs of these two common failures.
If these two issues turn out to be the most common failures, you can easily exceed the purchase price of the car for faults you've found (so far) in repair costs.
I'd forget about maintneance items like fluids and cosmetic items you've described, until an accurate diagnosis and repair quote can be obtained. You may end up flipping this thing right back.

 

Dan,

P2402+P2406 = Carbon Canister/evap pump unit failure (They are both part of the same unit). The part itself isn't overly expensive, BUT, you need to drop the rear diff to get to it. Jaguar will change the fuel filler tube and add some insulation when they do the job.

Most of the cost is in labor, you can expect a $2200+ hit.

wombat

 

Wombat,

Thanks for the info, I appreciate it. Does this pump the fumes out of the tank? I don't know if this is a pressing issue to get done, or
maybe it can be put off for a bit. I'm more annoyed with the humming sound. Power steering reservoir is full. I looked underneath and there is no indication of a leak and I never smell burning oil/ fluid. I actually do hear it in park (very faint) and gets a bit louder when I put it in drive up until maybe 5 to 10 mph and I can't hear it anymore. No problems with steering at all.

 

Like yourself I do get surprised as why guys buy such cars needing lots and lots of work to get them working , then moan about costs , why not just buy a car that works

 

And I'm surprised as to why you feel the need to be rude with your negative comment. If you don't have anything positive to say, keep your .02 to yourself. No where in my post was I 'moaning' about anything, simply stating I already know what I was going to do to car and asking about codes.

 

The car in question would not be able to be registered in several US states in the Northeast portion of the country. Vehicle emission laws vary from state-to-state; I'm unfamiliar with those in Texas. I suspect that metro areas of Texas require periodic vehicle emissions testing, and non-compliance incurrs some sort of penalty, either monetary or the inability to register or renew registration. To apply for a registration and tags In Maryland, for example, an inspection in most counties and most passenger vehicles is performed by a state employee plugging a diagnostic tool in the OBD2 connector. If my XJ threw P2402 or P2406, I would be unable to license the vehicle until these faults were corrected. There are some exceptions here (and probably everywhere.)
Generally speaking, evap system failures and codes do not affect the driveability or performance of the vehicle. YMMV.
I'm not criticizing Dan's purchase. The X351 is a seductive automobile, and there aren't any more of them being made. Maybe never will be. The ones that remain deserve to be saved. But his is a very early model with a number of issues, and I'm urging him to get an accurate assessment and estimate before undertaking repairs and improvements.

 

One BIG thing is DON'T drive around with only one key!!!
This is common with auction cars and you are headed for a large and expensive disaster. Please plan to have two operational keys/FOBS.
You will find out that adding keys gets harder and harder every year because of the anti-theft systems.

You did not post what scanner you have but if doing the DIY thing plan on getting and understanding an SDD system.
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Thanks for the heads up! I was already assuming that the car wouldn't let me lock doors with key fob in it, like the F Type. As far as scanners, I don't have one. Do I just look for one with SDD software? Any suggestions as to which to use?

 

Where do you take your F-type for service? IMO, there's nothing more essential in happy XJ ownership than a competent, fair-price service shop. Take your new purchase to this guy and have him spend a few hours completely examining it, and providing you a written quote on critical repairs, recommended repairs and others. Diagnose, Estimate, Decide, Repair or Replace. It's human nature to be optimistic. "Maybe I only need a new fuel cap to clear this evap code." "I bet this leak is just a gasket." I thought my sunroof needed adjustment or lubrication, not a (common) $800 repair.
JLR dealers and specialist independent shops have SDD Jaguar-specific software that is expensive and subscription-based. Like many on this forum, I have an inexpensive scanner (Autel HT200) that allows me to reset service intervals, read and clear top-level codes, etc. I've found this device to be very useful, but I would not undertake a Revival Project with this alone.

 

The SDD is a BIG subject and we have a few massive threads. My only suggestion is IF you want to go that way do a lot of research and understand what your getting into.
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Thanks for the info. I wouldn't have undertaken this project if I wasn't mechanically inclined. I have removed all major components from vehicles in the past and can remove the diff and tank when needed. You are right about the inspection here in Texas, but fortunately for me, since he still is a used car dealership, they get me a year of inspection/ registration with purchase. I would have been leary of buying it if the codes were there when I took possession, but they weren't. Either he deleted the codes, or they just happened to fail because I purchased it. lol Just my luck. Tomorrow, I am dropping it off at the shop that services my F Type to get an accurate condition of the car. We shall see.

 

So, I took it to the shop I use for jag service and besides all of the cosmetic problems listed, something interesting:

Codes 2402 and 2406 from above were not on report.
U0401-68 is gone, but replaced with U3000 Control Module (IC)
B1D64 AND B1D65 for headlamp motors, but they both work. Turning LEDs come on & both Adaptive lights function. I read it may be headlamp control module, but I am still trying to find where it is located.

P2601, which concerns me the most as it says 'coolant pump' to intercooler is what I read, but he just put 'coolant pump & t-stat' on report.

And of course lots and lots of cosmetic problems listed on report. lol

 

Easy to tell if the pump is bad. You should hear it run when you turn the key on. It's on the passenger side right ahead of the radiator. Best way to work on them is to remove the front bumper cover which is pretty easy to do. Then the pump/IC is all out in the open and easy to work on.

Also many of us have upgraded the IC pump. I have also upgraded my IC to a nice all Aluminum one. Common pump upgrade is the Bosch 010 pump. But there are others.
Here is my install thread.
Upgraded IC Pump and IC
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Biggest thing i can suggest is take it one at a time and you will be successful and proud of your car and yourself. I bought my 06 str in april 2017 in very good condition to me. 3 years later i was done with the fixits. Very happy too

 

Clubairth1, thanks for the info. I will look for that sensor. What did you mean in your post when you said you changed from electric connector to Mercedes style?
Thanks again,
Dan

 

Scottjh9, thanks for the advice. That’s what I plan to do. I picked it up pretty cheap and I’m going to replace it all, little by little. I’m not sure where to start as the car runs fine. Lol
my biggest complaints from taking it out is the whining sound that sounds like power steering pump, but no problems with steering and how the tail “wags,” and feels odd when going over bumps and uneven surfaces on the highway. No suspension codes though. I wonder if problem with headlights is making rear suspension jack up too high?? 🤔

 

Yes I used the MB pigtail just so I did not have to solder the connections on the Bosch 010 pump. Bigg Will has the part numbers in his thread and they are less than $20.

IC Pump Upgrade

It's a good thread to look thru too. The plug and pig tail are easy to find if you want to use them.
Not sure what sensor your talking about?
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lol I am unsure as well; my mind is going every which way right now. lol Ok, did what you suggested and didn't hear anything at front passenger area where pump is located. I assume this means it is bad? Sorry for the dumb question. I'll check out Bigg Will's thread. Thank you!

 

Asking for a friend... lol jk I really don't know where to begin. I was going to ask on 'justanswer,' but I thought I'd try to get some guidance from the group first.
The car drives fine. Before I found out about the latter codes from my shop, I took it on two road trips and had no problems aside from the power steering whine
up to 8-10 mph and then can't hear it anymore and the rear bouncing around too much on the highway.

I guess what I'm trying to say is that I know some of the codes are not detrimental to the function of the car, but could any of the rest be? I have enough problems
with this thing and I certainly don't want to add more. lol

Thanks in advance!
Dan