radiator fan
#2
11-16-2021, 04:56 PM
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hjanac, welcome to the forums. Lots of good information here and always someone that can help you out. We pride ourselves in being a better car group than you will find elsewhere. But, as part of this, we like to get to know one another. So, please stop by the New Member Section and introduce yourself and your kitty. This will help us get to know you and you get to know who makes this place what it is.
As for your fan issue, a little more detail about your vehicle would be helpful (ie, year, size engine, trim package). I am going to make a few assumptions here, but I should be fairly close to what you have. Lets first start with the simple checks, are the fuses good. You have 2 fuses that power the fan. There is a 100 amp fuse that is bolted in your engine bay fuse box and then you have fuse F31 (also in the engine bay fuse box). F31 is a 10 amp fuse. If you take a multimeter and put the black lead to body of the car and then touch both of the screw terminals on the 100 amp fuse, did you get 12 VDC on both sides? If no, only on one, then your 100 amp fuse is bad. If you didn't get it on either side, then you have a bad fuse box. Next, if you look at fuse F31, you will see 2 silver tabs on the top of the fuse. Use your multimeter to touch those tabs (one at a time) and see if you get 12 VDC there.(car needs to be on and running). Did you get 12 VDC on both sides? If no, only on 1, then fuse F31 is bad, replace. If you didn't get any voltage on either tab, then you need to look at relay R7 as that may be bad and that is preventing the fan from turning on. If you have power where you should, then the final check will be to locate the purple wire going to the fan (should have 2 black wires, a blue wire with an orange stripe, and a purple/violet wire on a 4 pin plug). Shove a pin down along side the purple wire and push it in till you can feel it touching something hard/metal. Now, with the car running, turn your A/C on the highest fan speed it will go and to the coldest temp it will go to. This will force the fan to run at maximum speed. You have some something near 12 VDC on the purple wire. If you have reached this point and have 12 VDC on the purple wire, then you have confirmed your fan bad. If no voltage on the purple wire, then your ECU has issues.
Now, for a fan replacement (assuming that is your problem), if you are buying a new fan through the dealership, yes, it is going to cost that much. I would recommend a wrecking yard for a good used fan as these are pretty reliable in these cars and the cost will be far less and you will get something that will probably outlast the car. You are still going to get hit for about 3 hours of labor. So, having a bill for $700 or so would not be surprising. Doing a quick search on Ebay, the fans are running between $250-600. Then, 3 hours of labor at $150/hr, you are going to be up there in the cost. You may find a shop that can do the fan faster than that, but I am trying to be a bit long in my estimation as I am not 100% sure what all is involved.
As for repairing the fan, it is pretty much a molded case. There is not a lot of disassembly on it. Then you have the big challenge of finding replacement parts for what you find broken. That is why I say to simply find a good used part and toss it in. You are going to be up in the price just spending time trying to find pieces and parts for the fan.
Not trying ot burst your bubble, but this is one of those repairs that the cost is pretty much what it is going to be unless you can replace the fan yourself or find a neighbor that will do it for say $100 and a case of beer after you buy the fan.
As for your fan issue, a little more detail about your vehicle would be helpful (ie, year, size engine, trim package). I am going to make a few assumptions here, but I should be fairly close to what you have. Lets first start with the simple checks, are the fuses good. You have 2 fuses that power the fan. There is a 100 amp fuse that is bolted in your engine bay fuse box and then you have fuse F31 (also in the engine bay fuse box). F31 is a 10 amp fuse. If you take a multimeter and put the black lead to body of the car and then touch both of the screw terminals on the 100 amp fuse, did you get 12 VDC on both sides? If no, only on one, then your 100 amp fuse is bad. If you didn't get it on either side, then you have a bad fuse box. Next, if you look at fuse F31, you will see 2 silver tabs on the top of the fuse. Use your multimeter to touch those tabs (one at a time) and see if you get 12 VDC there.(car needs to be on and running). Did you get 12 VDC on both sides? If no, only on 1, then fuse F31 is bad, replace. If you didn't get any voltage on either tab, then you need to look at relay R7 as that may be bad and that is preventing the fan from turning on. If you have power where you should, then the final check will be to locate the purple wire going to the fan (should have 2 black wires, a blue wire with an orange stripe, and a purple/violet wire on a 4 pin plug). Shove a pin down along side the purple wire and push it in till you can feel it touching something hard/metal. Now, with the car running, turn your A/C on the highest fan speed it will go and to the coldest temp it will go to. This will force the fan to run at maximum speed. You have some something near 12 VDC on the purple wire. If you have reached this point and have 12 VDC on the purple wire, then you have confirmed your fan bad. If no voltage on the purple wire, then your ECU has issues.
Now, for a fan replacement (assuming that is your problem), if you are buying a new fan through the dealership, yes, it is going to cost that much. I would recommend a wrecking yard for a good used fan as these are pretty reliable in these cars and the cost will be far less and you will get something that will probably outlast the car. You are still going to get hit for about 3 hours of labor. So, having a bill for $700 or so would not be surprising. Doing a quick search on Ebay, the fans are running between $250-600. Then, 3 hours of labor at $150/hr, you are going to be up there in the cost. You may find a shop that can do the fan faster than that, but I am trying to be a bit long in my estimation as I am not 100% sure what all is involved.
As for repairing the fan, it is pretty much a molded case. There is not a lot of disassembly on it. Then you have the big challenge of finding replacement parts for what you find broken. That is why I say to simply find a good used part and toss it in. You are going to be up in the price just spending time trying to find pieces and parts for the fan.
Not trying ot burst your bubble, but this is one of those repairs that the cost is pretty much what it is going to be unless you can replace the fan yourself or find a neighbor that will do it for say $100 and a case of beer after you buy the fan.
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wombat (11-16-2021)
#4
01-23-2022, 11:56 AM
Re Fan
I recall reading in the past that these older yellow looking fans fans start to fail and can crack at the base of the blades. I wonder if this is your issue.
Another option might be to look for an electric dual fan unit from a slightly later car 93-94 from a yard if possible. I don’t know your skill level but the fan looks pretty drop in - even an AM unit might be a vast improvement over the stock unit at a fraction of the cost.
Another option might be to look for an electric dual fan unit from a slightly later car 93-94 from a yard if possible. I don’t know your skill level but the fan looks pretty drop in - even an AM unit might be a vast improvement over the stock unit at a fraction of the cost.
#5
01-24-2022, 10:14 AM
Veteran Member
Well he posted in the 2009 and up XJ section? Now he did not give ANY details of ANY kind so AGAIN we are just guessing in the dark???
So your suggestion might help but until he provides additional details it's all a big maybe and I 'think' he has something much newer than the 93-94 year model car?
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So your suggestion might help but until he provides additional details it's all a big maybe and I 'think' he has something much newer than the 93-94 year model car?
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#6
07-13-2024, 12:56 PM
hjanac, welcome to the forums. Lots of good information here and always someone that can help you out. We pride ourselves in being a better car group than you will find elsewhere. But, as part of this, we like to get to know one another. So, please stop by the New Member Section and introduce yourself and your kitty. This will help us get to know you and you get to know who makes this place what it is.
As for your fan issue, a little more detail about your vehicle would be helpful (ie, year, size engine, trim package). I am going to make a few assumptions here, but I should be fairly close to what you have. Lets first start with the simple checks, are the fuses good. You have 2 fuses that power the fan. There is a 100 amp fuse that is bolted in your engine bay fuse box and then you have fuse F31 (also in the engine bay fuse box). F31 is a 10 amp fuse. If you take a multimeter and put the black lead to body of the car and then touch both of the screw terminals on the 100 amp fuse, did you get 12 VDC on both sides? If no, only on one, then your 100 amp fuse is bad. If you didn't get it on either side, then you have a bad fuse box. Next, if you look at fuse F31, you will see 2 silver tabs on the top of the fuse. Use your multimeter to touch those tabs (one at a time) and see if you get 12 VDC there.(car needs to be on and running). Did you get 12 VDC on both sides? If no, only on 1, then fuse F31 is bad, replace. If you didn't get any voltage on either tab, then you need to look at relay R7 as that may be bad and that is preventing the fan from turning on. If you have power where you should, then the final check will be to locate the purple wire going to the fan (should have 2 black wires, a blue wire with an orange stripe, and a purple/violet wire on a 4 pin plug). Shove a pin down along side the purple wire and push it in till you can feel it touching something hard/metal. Now, with the car running, turn your A/C on the highest fan speed it will go and to the coldest temp it will go to. This will force the fan to run at maximum speed. You have some something near 12 VDC on the purple wire. If you have reached this point and have 12 VDC on the purple wire, then you have confirmed your fan bad. If no voltage on the purple wire, then your ECU has issues.
Now, for a fan replacement (assuming that is your problem), if you are buying a new fan through the dealership, yes, it is going to cost that much. I would recommend a wrecking yard for a good used fan as these are pretty reliable in these cars and the cost will be far less and you will get something that will probably outlast the car. You are still going to get hit for about 3 hours of labor. So, having a bill for $700 or so would not be surprising. Doing a quick search on Ebay, the fans are running between $250-600. Then, 3 hours of labor at $150/hr, you are going to be up there in the cost. You may find a shop that can do the fan faster than that, but I am trying to be a bit long in my estimation as I am not 100% sure what all is involved.
As for repairing the fan, it is pretty much a molded case. There is not a lot of disassembly on it. Then you have the big challenge of finding replacement parts for what you find broken. That is why I say to simply find a good used part and toss it in. You are going to be up in the price just spending time trying to find pieces and parts for the fan.
Not trying ot burst your bubble, but this is one of those repairs that the cost is pretty much what it is going to be unless you can replace the fan yourself or find a neighbor that will do it for say $100 and a case of beer after you buy the fan.
As for your fan issue, a little more detail about your vehicle would be helpful (ie, year, size engine, trim package). I am going to make a few assumptions here, but I should be fairly close to what you have. Lets first start with the simple checks, are the fuses good. You have 2 fuses that power the fan. There is a 100 amp fuse that is bolted in your engine bay fuse box and then you have fuse F31 (also in the engine bay fuse box). F31 is a 10 amp fuse. If you take a multimeter and put the black lead to body of the car and then touch both of the screw terminals on the 100 amp fuse, did you get 12 VDC on both sides? If no, only on one, then your 100 amp fuse is bad. If you didn't get it on either side, then you have a bad fuse box. Next, if you look at fuse F31, you will see 2 silver tabs on the top of the fuse. Use your multimeter to touch those tabs (one at a time) and see if you get 12 VDC there.(car needs to be on and running). Did you get 12 VDC on both sides? If no, only on 1, then fuse F31 is bad, replace. If you didn't get any voltage on either tab, then you need to look at relay R7 as that may be bad and that is preventing the fan from turning on. If you have power where you should, then the final check will be to locate the purple wire going to the fan (should have 2 black wires, a blue wire with an orange stripe, and a purple/violet wire on a 4 pin plug). Shove a pin down along side the purple wire and push it in till you can feel it touching something hard/metal. Now, with the car running, turn your A/C on the highest fan speed it will go and to the coldest temp it will go to. This will force the fan to run at maximum speed. You have some something near 12 VDC on the purple wire. If you have reached this point and have 12 VDC on the purple wire, then you have confirmed your fan bad. If no voltage on the purple wire, then your ECU has issues.
Now, for a fan replacement (assuming that is your problem), if you are buying a new fan through the dealership, yes, it is going to cost that much. I would recommend a wrecking yard for a good used fan as these are pretty reliable in these cars and the cost will be far less and you will get something that will probably outlast the car. You are still going to get hit for about 3 hours of labor. So, having a bill for $700 or so would not be surprising. Doing a quick search on Ebay, the fans are running between $250-600. Then, 3 hours of labor at $150/hr, you are going to be up there in the cost. You may find a shop that can do the fan faster than that, but I am trying to be a bit long in my estimation as I am not 100% sure what all is involved.
As for repairing the fan, it is pretty much a molded case. There is not a lot of disassembly on it. Then you have the big challenge of finding replacement parts for what you find broken. That is why I say to simply find a good used part and toss it in. You are going to be up in the price just spending time trying to find pieces and parts for the fan.
Not trying ot burst your bubble, but this is one of those repairs that the cost is pretty much what it is going to be unless you can replace the fan yourself or find a neighbor that will do it for say $100 and a case of beer after you buy the fan.
But I do have some questions if you can help.
Where are the fuses located for a left hand drive car?
How a bad engine fan affects the air compressor for the climate control?
If I disconnect the pig tail…. What wires do I need to connect to 12 volts to confirm the fan mounted on the car or a eventual new sh is working properly? ( not that much knowledge in electric so that's why I am asking so precise )
Thank you
Last edited by danu99; 07-13-2024 at 01:00 PM.
#7
07-13-2024, 04:56 PM
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danu99, the engine bay fuse box is under the hood/bonnet in the back left corner (as you are standing in front of the car looking into the engine bay. It is under a plastic cover there that you have to remove 4 plastic fasteners to access.
As for how a bad fan affects the air compressor (I think you are really meaning the overall A/C system, so, I am going to answer based on that)? It can potentially have no effects if the car is able to maintain sufficient speed (about 30+ MPH). There will be enough natural air flowing through the radiator that your A/C system will function normally. Where the problem comes is when you start going slower and/or get into stop/go traffic. In this case, there is no air moving over the condenser to cool the freon. So, with that being said, when the freon reaches the dash, it is too hot to under go the necessary change to provide cooling. So, you end up with hot air being blown out at you.
As for testing the fans. With having the battery in the back of the car, I would recommend finding a spare 12V battery (can even be one from a motorcycle). You are then going to run some 14 gauge wire to pin 1 of the plug going to the fan. You will then need to run 2 18 guage wires to pins 3 and 4 of the plug. All 3 of these wires will then get attached to the battery positive. Finally, you will need to run another 14 gauge wire from the battery negative to Pin 2 of the fan plug. WARNING!!!!!! You may get some decent arcing doing on. Be ready for this. This is going to kick the fan on high and it is going to try and pull about 80 amps or so. This will generate some nice sparks if you are not ready for it. In your case, I think it would be easier to simply get into the car and turn on the A/C system. manually put the fan in fast and dial all the temp settings to the lowest that they will go. This is going to force the fan to run at maximum speed. With the engine running, if you lean in over the fan, you should be getting a nice breeze blown back in your face. If you are getting a nice gentle breeze, then you have a problem with either the fan or the controller.
As for how a bad fan affects the air compressor (I think you are really meaning the overall A/C system, so, I am going to answer based on that)? It can potentially have no effects if the car is able to maintain sufficient speed (about 30+ MPH). There will be enough natural air flowing through the radiator that your A/C system will function normally. Where the problem comes is when you start going slower and/or get into stop/go traffic. In this case, there is no air moving over the condenser to cool the freon. So, with that being said, when the freon reaches the dash, it is too hot to under go the necessary change to provide cooling. So, you end up with hot air being blown out at you.
As for testing the fans. With having the battery in the back of the car, I would recommend finding a spare 12V battery (can even be one from a motorcycle). You are then going to run some 14 gauge wire to pin 1 of the plug going to the fan. You will then need to run 2 18 guage wires to pins 3 and 4 of the plug. All 3 of these wires will then get attached to the battery positive. Finally, you will need to run another 14 gauge wire from the battery negative to Pin 2 of the fan plug. WARNING!!!!!! You may get some decent arcing doing on. Be ready for this. This is going to kick the fan on high and it is going to try and pull about 80 amps or so. This will generate some nice sparks if you are not ready for it. In your case, I think it would be easier to simply get into the car and turn on the A/C system. manually put the fan in fast and dial all the temp settings to the lowest that they will go. This is going to force the fan to run at maximum speed. With the engine running, if you lean in over the fan, you should be getting a nice breeze blown back in your face. If you are getting a nice gentle breeze, then you have a problem with either the fan or the controller.
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#8
07-13-2024, 05:01 PM
danu99, the engine bay fuse box is under the hood/bonnet in the back left corner (as you are standing in front of the car looking into the engine bay. It is under a plastic cover there that you have to remove 4 plastic fasteners to access.
As for how a bad fan affects the air compressor (I think you are really meaning the overall A/C system, so, I am going to answer based on that)? It can potentially have no effects if the car is able to maintain sufficient speed (about 30+ MPH). There will be enough natural air flowing through the radiator that your A/C system will function normally. Where the problem comes is when you start going slower and/or get into stop/go traffic. In this case, there is no air moving over the condenser to cool the freon. So, with that being said, when the freon reaches the dash, it is too hot to under go the necessary change to provide cooling. So, you end up with hot air being blown out at you.
As for testing the fans. With having the battery in the back of the car, I would recommend finding a spare 12V battery (can even be one from a motorcycle). You are then going to run some 14 gauge wire to pin 1 of the plug going to the fan. You will then need to run 2 18 guage wires to pins 3 and 4 of the plug. All 3 of these wires will then get attached to the battery positive. Finally, you will need to run another 14 gauge wire from the battery negative to Pin 2 of the fan plug. WARNING!!!!!! You may get some decent arcing doing on. Be ready for this. This is going to kick the fan on high and it is going to try and pull about 80 amps or so. This will generate some nice sparks if you are not ready for it. In your case, I think it would be easier to simply get into the car and turn on the A/C system. manually put the fan in fast and dial all the temp settings to the lowest that they will go. This is going to force the fan to run at maximum speed. With the engine running, if you lean in over the fan, you should be getting a nice breeze blown back in your face. If you are getting a nice gentle breeze, then you have a problem with either the fan or the controller.
As for how a bad fan affects the air compressor (I think you are really meaning the overall A/C system, so, I am going to answer based on that)? It can potentially have no effects if the car is able to maintain sufficient speed (about 30+ MPH). There will be enough natural air flowing through the radiator that your A/C system will function normally. Where the problem comes is when you start going slower and/or get into stop/go traffic. In this case, there is no air moving over the condenser to cool the freon. So, with that being said, when the freon reaches the dash, it is too hot to under go the necessary change to provide cooling. So, you end up with hot air being blown out at you.
As for testing the fans. With having the battery in the back of the car, I would recommend finding a spare 12V battery (can even be one from a motorcycle). You are then going to run some 14 gauge wire to pin 1 of the plug going to the fan. You will then need to run 2 18 guage wires to pins 3 and 4 of the plug. All 3 of these wires will then get attached to the battery positive. Finally, you will need to run another 14 gauge wire from the battery negative to Pin 2 of the fan plug. WARNING!!!!!! You may get some decent arcing doing on. Be ready for this. This is going to kick the fan on high and it is going to try and pull about 80 amps or so. This will generate some nice sparks if you are not ready for it. In your case, I think it would be easier to simply get into the car and turn on the A/C system. manually put the fan in fast and dial all the temp settings to the lowest that they will go. This is going to force the fan to run at maximum speed. With the engine running, if you lean in over the fan, you should be getting a nice breeze blown back in your face. If you are getting a nice gentle breeze, then you have a problem with either the fan or the controller.
2 more questions. On 12 volts.…. The fan will go full blast? And….. If its the regulator of fan speed…. Are these repairable? Or just new or sh? Again… thank you for the answers
#9
07-14-2024, 07:38 AM
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danu99, the 3 wires that you are tying together, the large gauge wire is your main power. The wire going to Pin 3 is a "switchable 12 VDC" (ie, comes on with the ignition, turns off when the car is turned off), and the wire going to Pin 4 is a signal that comes from the ECU to tell the fan how fast to go. While it doesn't work exactly this way, what I am going to describe makes it easier to understand. On Pin 4, if you apply a small voltage, the fan will spin slow. The bigger the voltage gets, the faster the fan will spin until you hit 12V which is as fast as the fan can spin.
Unfortunately, the speed regulator is built into the fan. So, there is no real separating them and only being able to repair a smaller part. It is replace the whole fan assembly or leave it as is.
Unfortunately, the speed regulator is built into the fan. So, there is no real separating them and only being able to repair a smaller part. It is replace the whole fan assembly or leave it as is.
#10
07-14-2024, 07:41 AM
danu99, the 3 wires that you are tying together, the large gauge wire is your main power. The wire going to Pin 3 is a "switchable 12 VDC" (ie, comes on with the ignition, turns off when the car is turned off), and the wire going to Pin 4 is a signal that comes from the ECU to tell the fan how fast to go. While it doesn't work exactly this way, what I am going to describe makes it easier to understand. On Pin 4, if you apply a small voltage, the fan will spin slow. The bigger the voltage gets, the faster the fan will spin until you hit 12V which is as fast as the fan can spin.
Unfortunately, the speed regulator is built into the fan. So, there is no real separating them and only being able to repair a smaller part. It is replace the whole fan assembly or leave it as is.
Unfortunately, the speed regulator is built into the fan. So, there is no real separating them and only being able to repair a smaller part. It is replace the whole fan assembly or leave it as is.
#11
07-14-2024, 08:06 AM
Veteran Member
When troubleshooting do the simple stuff first.
Start the car from cold (I do it in the morning after the car has sat all night). Turn on the AC. Open the hood and check the fan. It should be running on low speed regardless. If it's not you have a problem. Are you aware of the DPS valve in the AC compressor?
Post back with what you find?
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.
.
Start the car from cold (I do it in the morning after the car has sat all night). Turn on the AC. Open the hood and check the fan. It should be running on low speed regardless. If it's not you have a problem. Are you aware of the DPS valve in the AC compressor?
Post back with what you find?
.
.
.
#12
07-14-2024, 11:26 AM
When troubleshooting do the simple stuff first.
Start the car from cold (I do it in the morning after the car has sat all night). Turn on the AC. Open the hood and check the fan. It should be running on low speed regardless. If it's not you have a problem. Are you aware of the DPS valve in the AC compressor?
Post back with what you find?
.
.
.
Start the car from cold (I do it in the morning after the car has sat all night). Turn on the AC. Open the hood and check the fan. It should be running on low speed regardless. If it's not you have a problem. Are you aware of the DPS valve in the AC compressor?
Post back with what you find?
.
.
.
The situation is this. When I start the Ac... From the middle button, from off, I hear a loud click from the engine compartment. Also…. With the Ac on, I can hear after the car is at normal temp a noise from the compressor area, like something is rubbing….. Not plastic or rubber. Other symptoms… middle vents cold, sides worm to hot, and a change in Ac blower power in stationary traffic with car at normal temp. So…. Didn't know about the valve. To be honest, didn't hear in a long time the motor fan ar full speed like in other cars at full acc, although I use full Ac on low. I was thinking 🤔 initially at compresor, now about motor fan, and after you about that valve. To my knowledge, compressor was checked this year, in spring, retopped with cooling agent, it holds pressure.
Will see in the morning the fan, although its like hell to see it with all the pipes.
Of that doesn't engages at full in low temp and full blast….. Its the fan or the valve that commands it?
#13
Yesterday, 03:19 AM
When troubleshooting do the simple stuff first.
Start the car from cold (I do it in the morning after the car has sat all night). Turn on the AC. Open the hood and check the fan. It should be running on low speed regardless. If it's not you have a problem. Are you aware of the DPS valve in the AC compressor?
Post back with what you find?
.
.
.
Start the car from cold (I do it in the morning after the car has sat all night). Turn on the AC. Open the hood and check the fan. It should be running on low speed regardless. If it's not you have a problem. Are you aware of the DPS valve in the AC compressor?
Post back with what you find?
.
.
.
danu99, the 3 wires that you are tying together, the large gauge wire is your main power. The wire going to Pin 3 is a "switchable 12 VDC" (ie, comes on with the ignition, turns off when the car is turned off), and the wire going to Pin 4 is a signal that comes from the ECU to tell the fan how fast to go. While it doesn't work exactly this way, what I am going to describe makes it easier to understand. On Pin 4, if you apply a small voltage, the fan will spin slow. The bigger the voltage gets, the faster the fan will spin until you hit 12V which is as fast as the fan can spin.
Unfortunately, the speed regulator is built into the fan. So, there is no real separating them and only being able to repair a smaller part. It is replace the whole fan assembly or leave it as is.
Unfortunately, the speed regulator is built into the fan. So, there is no real separating them and only being able to repair a smaller part. It is replace the whole fan assembly or leave it as is.
Didn't start the engine with Ac on.
Started with Ac off, no fan movement. Started the Ac.…. No fan movement.
Went to the car shop, 7-10 km, last 2 km, engine at normal temp, Ac on full speed and low temp working fine, no noise. Arrived at the shop, bonnet up, fan not spinning. But Ac working fine.
Stopped the engine, got in and got the mechanic, started the car, .…… and fan working. Ac on full again…low temp….. Fan working but it on full blast. So…..? Intermittent working? Not seen yet full blast of the fan…!
Ideas?
Temp on dashboard always fix in the middle. Never ever over! Nooverheat light.
Left the car sr the shop. Can go tomorrow and restart it with Ac on from the start.
Intermittent working? Reason? Valve?
I guess the compressor works since it does full cold air blast!
#14
Yesterday, 06:47 AM
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#15
Yesterday, 07:15 AM
That she cold start…. Fan should be on? Regardless the temperature?
Mechanics says not necessary…. I really don't have another Jag or land rover to compare…. Are rare in my area……
Can you guys confirm…. Just to be sure?
I have options of second hand…. For a quick fix….. Complete fan or just motor, just need to know for sure.
Any start, any temp, without ac….fan on
Any start any temp with Ac.…. Fan on?
When max speed on fan? Normal use temp for engine and hot outside and Ac on to start boost fan speed?
Thank you in advance for answers
#16
Yesterday, 08:51 AM
Sorry for asking again…. But I have to be sure. Like I said…. The mechanic said that its ok like that…. But the decision to by and replace the part is mine. So…. I want to be informed and sure. For now and future.
And…… damn…. No car to compare. Thi k there like 3 Xj in the whole Bucharest. This week I stopped a guy with a range rover and asked him to do a stop start for the engine just to feel the noises and behavior. 😂😂😂
And…… damn…. No car to compare. Thi k there like 3 Xj in the whole Bucharest. This week I stopped a guy with a range rover and asked him to do a stop start for the engine just to feel the noises and behavior. 😂😂😂
#17
Yesterday, 09:05 AM
Veteran Member
Yes regardless of the temperature IF you start the engine from cold and switch on the AC the fan MUST run on low speed. I don't look just put your hand over the fan area and see if you feel anything?
Yes the DPS valve does act weird so what you saw might be the DPS. Do you have the TSB? Another real strong symptom is that the high side pressure is low and the low side is reading high on the gauges. This is usual and I had never seen it before. BUT you need to hook up a set of gauges. I do not see that you posted any pressure numbers?
Remember the DPS is NOT an AC failure. The AC and compressor are working just fine but that dang DPS valve is commanding the wrong things.
Post back if you can?
.
.
.
Yes the DPS valve does act weird so what you saw might be the DPS. Do you have the TSB? Another real strong symptom is that the high side pressure is low and the low side is reading high on the gauges. This is usual and I had never seen it before. BUT you need to hook up a set of gauges. I do not see that you posted any pressure numbers?
Remember the DPS is NOT an AC failure. The AC and compressor are working just fine but that dang DPS valve is commanding the wrong things.
Post back if you can?
.
.
.
#18
Yesterday, 09:16 AM
Yes regardless of the temperature IF you start the engine from cold and switch on the AC the fan MUST run on low speed. I don't look just put your hand over the fan area and see if you feel anything?
Yes the DPS valve does act weird so what you saw might be the DPS. Do you have the TSB? Another real strong symptom is that the high side pressure is low and the low side is reading high on the gauges. This is usual and I had never seen it before. BUT you need to hook up a set of gauges. I do not see that you posted any pressure numbers?
Remember the DPS is NOT an AC failure. The AC and compressor are working just fine but that dang DPS valve is commanding the wrong things.
Post back if you can?
.
.
.
Yes the DPS valve does act weird so what you saw might be the DPS. Do you have the TSB? Another real strong symptom is that the high side pressure is low and the low side is reading high on the gauges. This is usual and I had never seen it before. BUT you need to hook up a set of gauges. I do not see that you posted any pressure numbers?
Remember the DPS is NOT an AC failure. The AC and compressor are working just fine but that dang DPS valve is commanding the wrong things.
Post back if you can?
.
.
.
What îs tsb? And...high sidepressure on what? And low side reading high? On what? Ac? Valve?
#19
Yesterday, 09:59 AM
As a modern vehicle, nothing is runned unnessesary: If there are cold weather and you turn AC on, the compressor will not enagle and engine Fan will stay off.
The fan is controlled by ECU.
Engine fan will run only when needed:
- Engine heat rises above treshold
- Transmission heat rises above treshold
- AC condensator needs airflow.
X351 manual states following:
"The cooling fan is operated by a fan control module integrated into the cooling fan motor. The fan control module
regulates the voltage, and thus speed, of the cooling fan motor in response to a pulse width modulation (PWM) signal
from the engine control module (ECM).
The cooling fan receives a battery feed and an ignition feed from the engine junction box (EJB). The ignition feed is
supplied from the ignition relay in the EJB, which is controlled by the ECM.
The ECM calculates the required fan speed from the engine temperature, air conditioning (A/C) system pressure and
transmission fluid temperature. Under hot operating conditions, the fan may continue to operate for 4 minutes after the
engine has been switched off.
The supercharger cooling system also uses the engine cooling system for charge air cooling. Refer to: Supercharger
Cooling (303-03D Supercharger Cooling - V6 S/C 3.0L Petrol, Description and Operation)."
Otherwise engine fan will not run.
Its possible to manually run engine fan with most of the diag tools for testing the operation of the fan. (defently with JLR SSD)
The fan is controlled by ECU.
Engine fan will run only when needed:
- Engine heat rises above treshold
- Transmission heat rises above treshold
- AC condensator needs airflow.
X351 manual states following:
"The cooling fan is operated by a fan control module integrated into the cooling fan motor. The fan control module
regulates the voltage, and thus speed, of the cooling fan motor in response to a pulse width modulation (PWM) signal
from the engine control module (ECM).
The cooling fan receives a battery feed and an ignition feed from the engine junction box (EJB). The ignition feed is
supplied from the ignition relay in the EJB, which is controlled by the ECM.
The ECM calculates the required fan speed from the engine temperature, air conditioning (A/C) system pressure and
transmission fluid temperature. Under hot operating conditions, the fan may continue to operate for 4 minutes after the
engine has been switched off.
The supercharger cooling system also uses the engine cooling system for charge air cooling. Refer to: Supercharger
Cooling (303-03D Supercharger Cooling - V6 S/C 3.0L Petrol, Description and Operation)."
Otherwise engine fan will not run.
Its possible to manually run engine fan with most of the diag tools for testing the operation of the fan. (defently with JLR SSD)
#20
Yesterday, 12:23 PM
Technical Service Bulletin - document distributed to dealership service departments and on JLR ToPIX for Customers that notifies of a discovery of a problem and repair/mitigation.
Common terms related to A/C or HVAC. If you're not familiar with these, you need to have a professional do any work. It's too complicated, critical and dangerous for someone completely unfamiliar with A/C system, or even for most that have a basic understanding.