Rear brake Pad EPB wind backH
#41
11-29-2018 | 03:08 PM
Veteran Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 9,803
Likes: 2,548
From: home
No problem and we were all new once!
I use the Harbor Freight kit but you should be able to get a free loaner tool at Auto Zone or O'Reilly's.
Yes you must rotate the piston to retract it.
It's $45 which is high for HF but it is a quality tool and well worth the money!
Brake Kit
I have an XJR and use CF/Kevlar pads from Porterfield. My car has very large brakes and the pad selection is not large. I changed pads at 30K miles because of the dust from the factory pads.
One last comment I did not see mentioned? For some reason the XJ does NOT automatically apply the EPB when the car is placed in Park. This seems strange as my 2003 Lincoln LS and my 2005 S Type R both did.
So unless you manually apply the EPB it is never used!
Oh please get a shop manual. The car is beyond complex as you know! The one I got is 8700 pages!
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I use the Harbor Freight kit but you should be able to get a free loaner tool at Auto Zone or O'Reilly's.
Yes you must rotate the piston to retract it.
It's $45 which is high for HF but it is a quality tool and well worth the money!
Brake Kit
I have an XJR and use CF/Kevlar pads from Porterfield. My car has very large brakes and the pad selection is not large. I changed pads at 30K miles because of the dust from the factory pads.
One last comment I did not see mentioned? For some reason the XJ does NOT automatically apply the EPB when the car is placed in Park. This seems strange as my 2003 Lincoln LS and my 2005 S Type R both did.
So unless you manually apply the EPB it is never used!
Oh please get a shop manual. The car is beyond complex as you know! The one I got is 8700 pages!
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Last edited by clubairth1; 11-29-2018 at 03:10 PM.
#42
12-09-2018 | 08:30 PM
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 4
Likes: 2
From: holden Beach N.C.
I think there may be some misunderstanding there - I am not aware that I said the park brake cable needs to be removed from the caliper. Perhaps you took "released" to mean "removed"? It doesn't, at least not here in the UK. The use of release here means the opposite of engage (i.e. releasing the tension). That is why I added the comment about "enough" to clarify that. As I am not a mind reader, it would have been far more helpful had you simply asked the question as I quoted you above in the first instance.
I also explained how to remove the cable if needed because it makes moving the caliper out of the way of the discs much, much easier so you can tie it to the suspension out of the way rather than leave it supported by the brake hoses, as well as how to recalibrate the park brake afterwards. Both are actions the OP may, and will (respectively) encounter when elbow deep in a road-used caliper that won't retract for whatever reason while trying to prevent the pad sensor cable from being pinched by the bracket or the retaining spring from coming loose.
For the avoidance of any misunderstanding, this will hopefully be very clear:
You do not need to remove the park brake cable (unless you plan to remove the calipers from the car, or want to tie them up out of the way) but you do need to release it if replacing worn pads or discs. You must not attempt to force the park brake cable back directly as it can damage winding the adjuster screw and piston back against the cable tension and the gears in the actuator which is a great way to get "Park brake fault" messages on your instrument cluster. Jaguar didn't just add that restriction for the sake of it, or to sell diagnostic software. The warnings are prominently and repeatedly given at every step, and you can read them below.
For comparison, I've also attached the instructions for leadfoot's 2009 XF which are essentially the same.
I also explained how to remove the cable if needed because it makes moving the caliper out of the way of the discs much, much easier so you can tie it to the suspension out of the way rather than leave it supported by the brake hoses, as well as how to recalibrate the park brake afterwards. Both are actions the OP may, and will (respectively) encounter when elbow deep in a road-used caliper that won't retract for whatever reason while trying to prevent the pad sensor cable from being pinched by the bracket or the retaining spring from coming loose.
For the avoidance of any misunderstanding, this will hopefully be very clear:
You do not need to remove the park brake cable (unless you plan to remove the calipers from the car, or want to tie them up out of the way) but you do need to release it if replacing worn pads or discs. You must not attempt to force the park brake cable back directly as it can damage winding the adjuster screw and piston back against the cable tension and the gears in the actuator which is a great way to get "Park brake fault" messages on your instrument cluster. Jaguar didn't just add that restriction for the sake of it, or to sell diagnostic software. The warnings are prominently and repeatedly given at every step, and you can read them below.
For comparison, I've also attached the instructions for leadfoot's 2009 XF which are essentially the same.
Thank You
#43
12-10-2018 | 08:08 AM
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 4
Likes: 2
From: holden Beach N.C.
Thank You
#44
12-10-2018 | 12:04 PM
Veteran Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 9,803
Likes: 2,548
From: home
No but do you need to remove the cables?
It's easier to wind the caliper pistons back in with the caliper bolted to the car. Hard to do on the bench.
Plus you will be breaking brake lines and losing fluid-getting air in the lines. Again no problem but be SURE to bleed them enough afterwards.
One tip I use is to use a Turkey baster and suck as much fluid out of the master cylinder as you can and replace with new fluid BEFORE starting any brake work. Even if I don't plan on bleeding the MC fluid gets crappy on all my cars.
So unless your replacing the caliper I don't see any reason to remove them completely.
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It's easier to wind the caliper pistons back in with the caliper bolted to the car. Hard to do on the bench.
Plus you will be breaking brake lines and losing fluid-getting air in the lines. Again no problem but be SURE to bleed them enough afterwards.
One tip I use is to use a Turkey baster and suck as much fluid out of the master cylinder as you can and replace with new fluid BEFORE starting any brake work. Even if I don't plan on bleeding the MC fluid gets crappy on all my cars.
So unless your replacing the caliper I don't see any reason to remove them completely.
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#45
12-11-2018 | 09:26 AM
Veteran Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,346
Likes: 502
FWIW, I used a Lisle Tools, tool #28600, to wind in the pistons. This is a "cube like" tool, that has pins of varying diameter and spacing, in order to accommodate different pistons. I found that while this tool's pins did not fit the Jaguar piston, a little work with a file allowed me to make one set of the pins fit.
#46
12-11-2018 | 09:35 AM
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 5,686
Likes: 2,704
From: Newport Beach, California
Understand it's not necessary to remove parking brake cable to compress piston. In the absence of a dealer (less than 3 hours away) ,Not being able to secure a wind back tool. If one could get the parking brake cable off the caliper will that allow compression of the piston? If so am I getting myself into trouble for the reinstall of the parking brake cable?
Thank You
Thank You
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-22PCS-U...b215:rk:1:pf:0
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#47
12-11-2018 | 11:04 AM
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 17
Likes: 1
From: Maryland
FWIW, I used a Lisle Tools, tool #28600, to wind in the pistons. This is a "cube like" tool, that has pins of varying diameter and spacing, in order to accommodate different pistons. I found that while this tool's pins did not fit the Jaguar piston, a little work with a file allowed me to make one set of the pins fit.