Rear Subframe Bracket Rust Damage Repair
#1
Rear Subframe Bracket Rust Damage Repair
Greetings friends,
I was under the Jag yesterday trying to remove a cracked bolt, and I found this intense rust damage on rear subframe brackets below the suspension bushings. That’s what I get for not doing an intense rear inspection before I bought the car in Pittsburgh…I have ordered some lightly used brackets but I am having trouble finding the replacement bolts and bushings for this area. Manual doesn’t give me the part numbers obviously for the fasteners and bushings. I am hoping to replace these rusted parts without too much disassembly maybe just wheels.
Ordered:
AW93-5D125-AB
AW93-5D126-AB
2013 Jaguar XJ Base 3.0 AWD
Cheers,
Barak
I was under the Jag yesterday trying to remove a cracked bolt, and I found this intense rust damage on rear subframe brackets below the suspension bushings. That’s what I get for not doing an intense rear inspection before I bought the car in Pittsburgh…I have ordered some lightly used brackets but I am having trouble finding the replacement bolts and bushings for this area. Manual doesn’t give me the part numbers obviously for the fasteners and bushings. I am hoping to replace these rusted parts without too much disassembly maybe just wheels.
Ordered:
AW93-5D125-AB
AW93-5D126-AB
2013 Jaguar XJ Base 3.0 AWD
Cheers,
Barak
#4
Hi Griff , i normally wire brush as much as i can then use a rust paint i normally spray 2 coats on , ( the uk name escapes me for now ) but i also know that their are loads out their , clear coatings etc that loads of guys use them on their old landrovers and last for years . will do a spot of googling for you
#7
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#8
Well I underestimated my nearest Jaguar dealer in Louisville, the parts agent was super helpful!
He provided me this image of my VIN parts breakdown. I needed to replace left and right rear suspension braces and the cross member #2 with hardware #3. I don’t have all the part numbers for the rest unfortunately.
Left Rear Suspension Brace
Right Rear Suspension Brace
#2 C2D10278
#3 C2Z2442
He provided me this image of my VIN parts breakdown. I needed to replace left and right rear suspension braces and the cross member #2 with hardware #3. I don’t have all the part numbers for the rest unfortunately.
Left Rear Suspension Brace
Right Rear Suspension Brace
#2 C2D10278
#3 C2Z2442
#9
If your car's from Pittsburgh, PA you should also examine the belly pan and check for bent wheels!
For the steel parts you don't replace, I'd recommend knocking off the loose rust only, washing the underside, then applying POR15 to the rusty areas. You don't want the surface to be rust-free, just clean of mud and flakes. POR15 will not withstand UV rays, so follow up with rattle can chassis paint or undercoating. Follow the POR15 instructions to the letter, use "chip" brushes (single-use and discard), latex gloves and eye protection. It cannot be removed from skin, so cover up. Buy small cans because it won't keep after opening.
For the steel parts you don't replace, I'd recommend knocking off the loose rust only, washing the underside, then applying POR15 to the rusty areas. You don't want the surface to be rust-free, just clean of mud and flakes. POR15 will not withstand UV rays, so follow up with rattle can chassis paint or undercoating. Follow the POR15 instructions to the letter, use "chip" brushes (single-use and discard), latex gloves and eye protection. It cannot be removed from skin, so cover up. Buy small cans because it won't keep after opening.
#10
#11
Help!
So I am halfway through replacing the rear subframe support braces, but the driver side sub frame bolt captive nut is broken loose inside It’s aluminum housing. Has anyone replaced the captive nut on the driver side? They could tell me how to go about this the best way? There is no easy access from the rear seating area or under the car. I have the rear wheels on ramps, so I was wary to pull the car down and jack it up without this mounted.
#12
Ok, so I decided it would be low risk to roll the car down off the ramps and jack it up. I have since removed the wheel and found an access port to the captive nut, but it is blocked by the rear subframe assembly that I don’t have an easy way to remove with the broken captive nut. See photos for this access port. I have tried my pliers but am unable to grab a firm hold on the nut to avoid it turning. I have loosened the brace at the bottom a bit more, but I can’t figure out how I will reinstall the new brace in this condition.
Is my only hope to go through the entire rear subframe assembly removal to attempt to get at this nut? Would I be nuts to try to tighten it up without replacing the nut? (pun intended)
Is my only hope to go through the entire rear subframe assembly removal to attempt to get at this nut? Would I be nuts to try to tighten it up without replacing the nut? (pun intended)
#13
Ok I’m in it to win it, based on all the x308 and x type threads on here, I’m going to have to remove the rear subframe assembly to get at this captive nut. I cut the subframe bolt, and the rusted brace fell right out. Now I’ve discovered some failed passenger side lug nuts from the auto shop’s impact driver…I’ve ordered new ones based on this thread so I don’t have the caps pop off again. Im having to use a hole saw to cut off the remaining lug without a hex head.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ug-nut-150803/
#14
Here’s the situation. I have four replacement subframe bolts headed this way, which all the Jaguar manuals require when doing subframe removal. The drivers side captive nut however is my nemesis and has thus far been a pain to remove. I have loosened the entire subframe assembly and took a picture of the problem nut and the happy passenger side nut. I have cut the seized bolt three times now with the hope to pull the nut and bolt out through the access port. I am hopeful that I can reseat the nut with bolt removed, then bend the spring plate on top of it, but I’m not sure it will work out.
Anyone have any wisdom on this? As my daily driver and 9 days and counting, my wife is thoroughly annoyed!
Cheers,
Barak
Anyone have any wisdom on this? As my daily driver and 9 days and counting, my wife is thoroughly annoyed!
Cheers,
Barak
Last edited by griff831; 07-17-2023 at 01:33 PM.
#15
I found this thread for x350 and x358 to be super helpful. Just the same quandary I found myself in. And I was using a ratchet wrench to loosen the subframe bolts not an impact gun…
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-nuts-217736/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-nuts-217736/
#16
Victory! A lot of cutting to get the subframe bolt short enough, a lot of prying with long, bent-nose pliers, and some prayers got this nut out of its hole. I was also able to pry the spring clip out since it was bent open allowing the nut to spin.
I took a picture of the jack with spreader bar supporting the rear subframe for lowering 3-4”. And the brake rotors look terrible from 10 days without a wheel and a couple rainstorms…I’m ready to park her back in the garage.
I took a picture of the jack with spreader bar supporting the rear subframe for lowering 3-4”. And the brake rotors look terrible from 10 days without a wheel and a couple rainstorms…I’m ready to park her back in the garage.
Last edited by griff831; 07-19-2023 at 07:56 AM.
#17
#18
Rear lower strut brace.
Cheers, George! I appreciate you, perhaps there’s a rust neutralizer that will keep it from getting worse in the spots I can’t reach with the wire brush.
As for the cross member between these rear subframe brackets and hardware, does anyone have a good reference for these part numbers?
As for the cross member between these rear subframe brackets and hardware, does anyone have a good reference for these part numbers?
#19
@alan33 Thank you, sir! I will definitely check them out since I still have work to do under there. I ran out of time this fall before the winter hit. Being AWD, my XJ is my daily driver .
In #8 above, I was able to replace the part number for the cross member between the subframe brackets: #2 C2D10278. I couldn’t get #4 however.
In #8 above, I was able to replace the part number for the cross member between the subframe brackets: #2 C2D10278. I couldn’t get #4 however.
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