My left rear vanity mirror is half-way falling when pushed. The white plastic piece of the hinge (in the red circle below) was broken.


1. What tool should I use to pull the vanity mirror out? I plan to glue the plastic hinge or replace the whole mirror if it does not work.
2. Are left and right mirrors interchangeable? I might get it online but not sure if there are different part no. for left and right.

Thank you in advance.

 

TSB Number:SSM72172NHTSA Number:10096517TSB Date:February 13, 2015Date Added to File:March 28, 2017Failing Component:Visibility:Rearview Mirrors/DevicesSummary:"issue rear vanity mirror, when opened may become dislodged or hang down.(see attached picture) cause incorrect process during manufacture causing swivel pin to fracture and eventually fail."

 

I have this same issue in my 2014 XJRL. Was anyone able to locate this part online? Even with this broken vanity mirror in hand with all the various numbers on the back, I'm struggling to find it.

 

I repaired the hinge with epoxy. It works in the sense that it latches, opens, and closes properly now, but the illumination is fairly temperamental. Usually only the dog is in the back anyway, and I haven't seen her make use of the vanity mirror so far.

 

Yeah with mine, the lights stay on all the time no matter if I can get it to close and stay or not, which obviously is an issue. So for now I just popped the whole thing out and unplugged it and put the rear plate only back, so it's just missing the mirror. I don't even think mine was ever used before, my wife just noticed it was hanging down one day when getting our daughter out of the car seat! I guess it just came loose and fell from closing the door or bumps in the road, who knows. At any rate - thanks for your reply!

 

The light being always on is what made me repair it in the first place. If you lock the car, it does turn those lights off anyway, even if they were on. Makes sense, as the vanity mirrors could be left open.

 

I had the same issue. I was advised to take it to a body shop, who said that the headliner had to come down to replace the entire thing... The part number the body shop quoted was C2D3845NUG, for a "courtesy lamp w/rear sun shade ivory". 4 hours labor and ~350 in parts and "hazardous waste disposal"... Be warned, they initially ordered the wrong part somehow... I presume this is the corrected number.

cjp

 

"hazardous waste disposal"

LOL

"who said that the headliner had to come down to replace the entire thing"

The rear vanity mirrors clip into the headliner. Working from the rear, push forward, and pull the rear edge down. Mine just popped out.

 

That's good to know for when its twin fails in the future... Someone else was paying for this repair, so I don't feel too bad about not investigating further. Thanks Mark! cjp

 

I removed the rear vanity and the entire roof headliner. You absolutely do NOT have to remove the headliner to remove the rear vanity lights. They pry right out and are connected by the standard JLR light connectors to power the light bulbs in the vanities. This is an easy 5 minute do it yourself job; no need for a dealer. Vanity mirrors are all over EBay for about $50. They can be swapped out by a novice in literally 5 minutes.

 

My fix was not one that would probably stand up to heavy use. There is never anyone in the back seat, so I think it is good enough though. I drilled a starter hole where the broken plastic piece was, and then used a screw. After screwing the screw in, I cut the head of the screw off.

 

So are you saying this was a warranty/recall issue? Where can I find out more about this (minor, yet a bit annoying) problem?

 

No it's a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin). It gives the factory techs a heads up on common reported problems and usually some kind of solution to fix it.
You will not get a recall/free replacement for something so unimportant.
.
.
.

 

How do you get the connector unhooked? I've tried pulling and prying and it won't come apart. Why there has to be a secret process to getting a connector apart escapes me.

 

I had a similar problem with the sun visor mirrors in my 2000 XKR. You would think they'd have figured out how to build it right by now.

Vince

 

I'm replacing one of my rear vanity mirrors. As others have said, easy job for a novice like me. If you're sitting in the rear seat facing the mirror, it pries down from from the long edge closest to you. It's held in with a bit of tension but will swing down easily.

Reason for my post is to say to not buy the new replacement from

 

I'm replacing one of my rear vanity mirrors. As others have said, easy job for a novice like me. If you're sitting in the rear seat facing the mirror, it pries down from from the long edge closest to you. It's held in place with a bit of tension and will swing down easily without damaging the headliner.

Buyer beware on the new replacement from Ali Express, which comes up early on most Google searches, attractively priced at $38. Mine arrived yesterday and while it works and it's perfect color match, it's going back for two reasons. First, the lights are blinding white LEDs that don't match any other lighting in the car, including the yellowish lights in the original mirror on the other side. Second, to open it I have to push the silver trim piece three times before it opens, and then it just drops to a position where the user can't see themself. It has to be pushed back, and will finally stay in the right position. It feels cheap and gimmicky.

We could have worse problems in life. But I just found it to be a cheap knockoff replacement, and will press my luck with a "preloved" OEM on eBay for $50.

 

Mine was replaced under factory warranty. The driver's side rear mirror was stuck closed and rattled. My 2019 XJL warranty expires at the end of December 2024. They also replaced the rear backup camera.

 

Both mine failed. The little plastic pin is hopelessly cheap. OEM's made in Czech. New replacements on E-bay are PRC. What a surprise. So far, I disconnected the electric connector and glued the unit back together. Not working, so grandkids can't break it.

 

I just spent my afternoon repairing BOTH of these. They've been broken for at least 6 years. You can buy replacements on eBay for $60 each, but the repair is pretty easy. I was thinking it may make sense to buy 1 new one just to get a functioning hinge and make a mold of it, then cast a bunch of these.

• to repair, remove the vanity mirror (there are 2 clips rear-facing), disconnect wire
• unclip the side that isn't broken, and snake the wire through the hole to remove the mirror from the housing
• use a thin screwdriver to pop open the mirror. there are 6 or so clips holding it together but no glue
• the hinge that breaks is a while cylinder piece inside of that spring. remove it
• This hinge is meant to stay in place with the housing and not the mirror, so the mirror revolves around it. But the piece that connects to the housing is VERY thin and the plastic brittle. When the mirror opens, the little black switch on the board hits a fatter part of this pin, turning on the light. When you close it, the opposite happens and the light turns off.
• use a drill with a very small bit to score a hole in the broken end, this will help set a new pin and epoxy. Make it at least a few mm deep
• get a thin finishing nail that will fit in the whole you made.
• Reassemble the mirror parts but DO NOT clip on the top. Make sure the spring is in place. To make sure everything works, place this bottom of the mirror in the housing, and pass the nail from the outside of the housing into the drilled hole in the hinge. Make sure everything moves correctly. If everything is good, take the mirror out of the housing.
• Add epoxy liberally to the hole, but DO NOT get epoxy on the spring or on the mirror frame. This must rotate around the hinge.
• Place the bottom section of the mirror and all its contents into the housing
• Apply epoxy liberally to the OUTSIDE of the housing, so that it fills all the Phillips-like hole. Pass the nail through this, and into the hinge. Clean the epoxy if needed to make sure it is not touching the mirror frame.
• Let dry until hard. check on it periodically in case any epoxy needs to be cleaned or the hinge moved to be straight before it dries.
• Once dry, make sure that the mirror frame moves (is not glued in place). If it is OK, snap on the top of the mirror frame.
• cut off the excess nail/nailhead. hang upside down, and make sure the mirror opens correctly.
• reconnect the wire to the car, snap the housing in place. Open the mirror- the lights should turn on now.
• Get a beer from the fridge. Enjoy a job well done, and the $130 or so you you just saved (or $2000 if you go to a dealership)