SC coupler replacement
#1
SC coupler replacement
SC coupler replacement does this problem affect all XJs
I could not find anything on how to replace one does the supercharger have to be removed in order to replace the coupler?
What are symptoms of a bad coupler noises on cold start? also I read not to replace with a solid coupler or the noise gets worse
I could not find anything on how to replace one does the supercharger have to be removed in order to replace the coupler?
What are symptoms of a bad coupler noises on cold start? also I read not to replace with a solid coupler or the noise gets worse
#2
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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Yes it can effect any XJ with the AJ133 V8 SC or AJ126 V6 (which are only/all SC anyway).
Yes the SC needs to come off to replace the coupler, as the snout needs to be unbolted from the body of the SC and there are one (maybe two) bolts on the underside of the snout that cannot be accessed without removing the SC.
The classic symptom of a badly worn coupler is a loud rattle from the top of the engine at cold start up, like marbles in a tin can.
This rattle is very irregular and non-rhythmical, it goes up and down and fades in and out.
A common secondary symptom is a loud "clonk" on shut down, not every time but say one in three times. This is the sound of the spring in the coupler rebounding because it is a bit loose due to wear.
Mixed reviews and the jury is out on the solid coupler, some say it is better than the OEM style coupler (with the big spring in the middle) mainly because it does not have that problematic spring, others say it is a bit noisy all the time and some say that because it doesn't have the "recoil preventing" spring the SC bearings etc will wear out much faster.
Apparently Eaton revised the OEM "with spring" coupler a few years ago (2018???) with a new/harder insert to reduce the wear of the spring on the plastic housing.
Yes the SC needs to come off to replace the coupler, as the snout needs to be unbolted from the body of the SC and there are one (maybe two) bolts on the underside of the snout that cannot be accessed without removing the SC.
The classic symptom of a badly worn coupler is a loud rattle from the top of the engine at cold start up, like marbles in a tin can.
This rattle is very irregular and non-rhythmical, it goes up and down and fades in and out.
A common secondary symptom is a loud "clonk" on shut down, not every time but say one in three times. This is the sound of the spring in the coupler rebounding because it is a bit loose due to wear.
Mixed reviews and the jury is out on the solid coupler, some say it is better than the OEM style coupler (with the big spring in the middle) mainly because it does not have that problematic spring, others say it is a bit noisy all the time and some say that because it doesn't have the "recoil preventing" spring the SC bearings etc will wear out much faster.
Apparently Eaton revised the OEM "with spring" coupler a few years ago (2018???) with a new/harder insert to reduce the wear of the spring on the plastic housing.
The following users liked this post:
QP7 (02-25-2024)
#3
Yes it can effect any XJ with the AJ133 V8 SC or AJ126 V6 (which are only/all SC anyway).
Yes the SC needs to come off to replace the coupler, as the snout needs to be unbolted from the body of the SC and there are one (maybe two) bolts on the underside of the snout that cannot be accessed without removing the SC.
The classic symptom of a badly worn coupler is a loud rattle from the top of the engine at cold start up, like marbles in a tin can.
This rattle is very irregular and non-rhythmical, it goes up and down and fades in and out.
A common secondary symptom is a loud "clonk" on shut down, not every time but say one in three times. This is the sound of the spring in the coupler rebounding because it is a bit loose due to wear.
Mixed reviews and the jury is out on the solid coupler, some say it is better than the OEM style coupler (with the big spring in the middle) mainly because it does not have that problematic spring, others say it is a bit noisy all the time and some say that because it doesn't have the "recoil preventing" spring the SC bearings etc will wear out much faster.
Apparently Eaton revised the OEM "with spring" coupler a few years ago (2018???) with a new/harder insert to reduce the wear of the spring on the plastic housing.
Yes the SC needs to come off to replace the coupler, as the snout needs to be unbolted from the body of the SC and there are one (maybe two) bolts on the underside of the snout that cannot be accessed without removing the SC.
The classic symptom of a badly worn coupler is a loud rattle from the top of the engine at cold start up, like marbles in a tin can.
This rattle is very irregular and non-rhythmical, it goes up and down and fades in and out.
A common secondary symptom is a loud "clonk" on shut down, not every time but say one in three times. This is the sound of the spring in the coupler rebounding because it is a bit loose due to wear.
Mixed reviews and the jury is out on the solid coupler, some say it is better than the OEM style coupler (with the big spring in the middle) mainly because it does not have that problematic spring, others say it is a bit noisy all the time and some say that because it doesn't have the "recoil preventing" spring the SC bearings etc will wear out much faster.
Apparently Eaton revised the OEM "with spring" coupler a few years ago (2018???) with a new/harder insert to reduce the wear of the spring on the plastic housing.
I am taking apart our 2014 RRS with the V6 as we speak to replace the entire snout with a new OEM snout and original spring coupler because the solid coupler seems to be the cause of a growling noise after only 6k miles.
The following users liked this post:
QP7 (02-25-2024)
#6
Yes it can effect any XJ with the AJ133 V8 SC or AJ126 V6 (which are only/all SC anyway).
Yes the SC needs to come off to replace the coupler, as the snout needs to be unbolted from the body of the SC and there are one (maybe two) bolts on the underside of the snout that cannot be accessed without removing the SC.
The classic symptom of a badly worn coupler is a loud rattle from the top of the engine at cold start up, like marbles in a tin can.
This rattle is very irregular and non-rhythmical, it goes up and down and fades in and out.
A common secondary symptom is a loud "clonk" on shut down, not every time but say one in three times. This is the sound of the spring in the coupler rebounding because it is a bit loose due to wear.
Mixed reviews and the jury is out on the solid coupler, some say it is better than the OEM style coupler (with the big spring in the middle) mainly because it does not have that problematic spring, others say it is a bit noisy all the time and some say that because it doesn't have the "recoil preventing" spring the SC bearings etc will wear out much faster.
Apparently Eaton revised the OEM "with spring" coupler a few years ago (2018???) with a new/harder insert to reduce the wear of the spring on the plastic housing.
Yes the SC needs to come off to replace the coupler, as the snout needs to be unbolted from the body of the SC and there are one (maybe two) bolts on the underside of the snout that cannot be accessed without removing the SC.
The classic symptom of a badly worn coupler is a loud rattle from the top of the engine at cold start up, like marbles in a tin can.
This rattle is very irregular and non-rhythmical, it goes up and down and fades in and out.
A common secondary symptom is a loud "clonk" on shut down, not every time but say one in three times. This is the sound of the spring in the coupler rebounding because it is a bit loose due to wear.
Mixed reviews and the jury is out on the solid coupler, some say it is better than the OEM style coupler (with the big spring in the middle) mainly because it does not have that problematic spring, others say it is a bit noisy all the time and some say that because it doesn't have the "recoil preventing" spring the SC bearings etc will wear out much faster.
Apparently Eaton revised the OEM "with spring" coupler a few years ago (2018???) with a new/harder insert to reduce the wear of the spring on the plastic housing.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
#9
Most sellers on Ebay and Amazon are selling the upgraded pipes for $50.00-$100.00 some sellers asking for $150.00 $200.00 is there a difference in quality or just price difference ? the rear water heater pipe seems to be the most expensive even the ones shipping from China are close to $200.00
#10
#11
What happened was a few of us members were getting company's to make metal pipes for us. We got the specifications out to them and they made them for the Jaguar community, but as we all no there's going to be some replicas, in my 3 Videos shows were to get your parts from ,after installing them in members car with perfect results.Ive put 2000 miles on my coupler and pipes
This what happens with a overheated engine, 2015 Xj now a paper weight I'm tearing it down for spare parts
This what happens with a overheated engine, 2015 Xj now a paper weight I'm tearing it down for spare parts
#12
What happened was a few of us members were getting company's to make metal pipes for us. We got the specifications out to them and they made them for the Jaguar community, but as we all no there's going to be some replicas, in my 3 Videos shows were to get your parts from ,after installing them in members car with perfect results.Ive put 2000 miles on my coupler and pipes
This what happens with a overheated engine, 2015 Xj now a paper weight I'm tearing it down for spare parts
https://youtu.be/rv35yzXCuPw?si=jna8C1UUIpDy0SIF
This what happens with a overheated engine, 2015 Xj now a paper weight I'm tearing it down for spare parts
https://youtu.be/rv35yzXCuPw?si=jna8C1UUIpDy0SIF
2000 miles is not saying much let us know when you have 20,000 miles Thanks
Loutusprite says he heard growling noise after 8K mile from his solid coupler so you still got a ways to go
Last edited by JaguarXJL15; 06-24-2024 at 08:36 AM.
#13
That way we don't have to scroll through a bunch of pics to get to the reply.
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