Yes I am coming to terms and facing the music that I might have to go past the zip tie method. I’m kinda upset really I was not planning on The added expense of the other tools and the added labor. I would have stopped at the SC coupler.

Have you attempted to line things up before tear down? I’m curious if that not possible after an initial start up. I can only imagine a broken injector from trying to pull it.

 

How do I identify the flywheel?

 

Thanks Jagman92 for chiming in. Always nice to have Jag technicians join us. Welcome to the forum and congrats on the “new” Vandenplaas. To us, you are our first responders and we appreciate all your support on these forums. -nedoerr

 

I know it’s a pain and an expense. But it can save you thousands. Trust me, i used to do 2-3 of these a week at the dealer. I used to call them gravy jobs. However, there are a lot of tricks I learned that kicked my butt along the way. Firstly, the only way I ever recommend doing this job is to do it with v/c off. The injectors would have to come out and be resealed. And that’s more tools and sometimes swearing when they get stuck in the head. But if you can’t see and lock your cams( cam tools go on the rear of the cams) then you are taking a considerable risk since this isn’t second nature to you. Just be careful

The timing marks will all line up again, but that’s thousands of revolutions. Secondly, just doing tensioners and guides might keep it good for a while, but I HAVE seen the chains stretch. Did several warranty jobs that you’re doing now that had chain noise after installing updated levers and tensioners. No sense in doing all this work and taking a chance on the chains. But that’s me.

as far as fly wheel style, the engine at cyl 1 tdc, remove crank sensor at lower left of engine near transmission. As you turn the motor over by hand you will see square cut outs. The old style will have a slightly oversized cutout compared to the rest. New style will have a tiny rectangle.

 

And thank you nedoerr for that. I try to help the jag and rover owners as much as can. Where I am there’s me, another shop, and the dealer that ACTUALLY knows these vehicles. So not many options. I just want people to be taken care of since it’s hard to trust anyone nowadays.

 

aint that the truth! I learned how to work on cars when I was 14 back in ‘77 because I couldnt afford to pay anyone else to do it and I couldnt trust that they would do it right.

its nice having a jag expert here. I might be calling in you to help with my front parking sensors. They register as active on SDD but theres no beeping.... swapped park sensor module but same result. Not to bog down this thread with my problems so I will hit you up later if I can.

 

XJsss, your tech is correct that the 6.4mm chains were phased out on all models (probably around 2013) and it is a nightmare to swap them out for the 8mm because everything has to be changed over to accommodate the new pitch. This is very expensive. It has been well reported on the XF forums.

Though, as I mentioned above, I'm pretty sure the XJ (X351) is the exception to this, and that all X351 were shipped with the 8mm chains. This agrees with the parts catalog and from my personal experience, as my 2010 XJL s/c (the 207th X351 by VIN#) came with factory 8mm pitch chains. If they did make any with the 6.4mm pitch, it wasn't very many.

 

Nedoerr thanks that's good to know

 

Parts came in for the zip tie updates. I got Jaguar parts not LR not sure why JLR doesn’t unify the part numbers. I might have paid more IDK. Obviously two tensioners box is missing on one.

 

I don’t know about rest of world(ROW) vehicles. But I’ve never seen a 5.0 with the Tsubaki chains. Every 5.0 that I’ve ever worked on had the INA chains. If your vehicle is NAS, then it shouldn’t require any update in the respect of switching styles. Everything is essentially the same except the crank tool design. With the exception of the 3.0 v6. Basically a 5.0 block with different heads and they added internal balancers.

 

When you released your chain tensioners(if you have already) did the cams or chains pop?

 

No, when you follow the Jaguar LR zip tie process lining the up the cam bolts triangle in the instructed orientation they are at a relaxed state. LH side crank key at 6pm and cam bolts triangle in pointing to the crank for the outer one and pointing west sorta for the inboard cam. RH side is 9PM and its own orientation of the triangle.

I am doing one side at a time, complete and making sure I rotate the engine before moving to the other side. Assuring the lower marks still line up on the markers since that crank sprocket is on the same rotation. When all bolted up and rotating the cams and tensioners all pop. My nerves are killing me, but have comfort rotating the engine several times and hitting the two lower marks respectively for each chain over and over. Ill keep you all posted if I am successful or not, no interference during rotation so worse case I throw codes. The more I spin the engine over and consecutively hit the indicators and point the cam triangle in the stated direction in relation to the crank the more I feel a little more confident doing it. This engine was clean at 93k no noise. The hardware could have lasted another 50K in my opinion. Regular oil changes at 5K according to the previous owner. Ill post pics of the old parts. Nothing alarming.To change these as preventive was a little premature for me in my opinion, I read all the opinions about it. Had I not have to take the SC off to do coolant system upgrades and the snout I would have shot for highest mile on original hardware. I guess the thoughts of engine failure was bothering me as they do happen. Im not sure this care would have been a case for it. Oh well new stuff will go on and we will never know.

 

Old piston operation



Old Lever and guide.

 

Good deal. It’s for the best to go ahead and change them I suppose. You did have the original tensioners and levers. Yeah, let us know what happens. I had one tech at the dealer try it that way and it didn’t end well. So I just decided to never do it that way.

Also, make sure when you pull the pins on the tensioners, take a flat screwdriver and pry the levers away from the tensioners until you hear a faint click. They had to update the process a few years back because the tensioners weren’t catching the first tooth to keep it from slacking off when oil pressure bleeds off.

 

Thank you for the input. I spoke too soon and while near the end of the right side the outermost VVT sprung out of timing. I lost any reference and well threw in the towel as you had expected. Putting down my pride and looking at this as a blessing if you believe in that sort of thing. Now it must be done the proper way wether I like it or not.

I do have one important question to do the fuel injectors on the fuse box side do I need to remove the plastic fabric lined shield. Will the tool fit in that space?

Also valves are gummed up in certain cylinders do you usually ignore this or service the back of the valves somehow. This is gummy stuff and it’s pretty nasty.

When I feel motivated again and get the tools I’ll keep tearing it down. I guess it will now give me a reason to do the spark plugs. I hope fuel injectors come out.

Thanks for the feedback I had to give it a shot the shortcut way but there is too much risk. The main issue is that the black guides don’t get changed in the procedure this I think is the main cause for my failed attempted taking the black guides while the levers guides is too much slack and things go wrong as it
did with me. Lesson learned now to learn on what’s to come. Any additional tips will be helpful.

 

I hate to hear that. But that’s ok. You’ll get it fixed. I hope to get a 5.0 timing chain job come in soon so maybe I can show exactly how it all goes. And yes, you do have to remove the secondary bulkhead to effectively remove the injectors. There is a special tool for that. And you have to have it if the injectors are truly nice and stuck in the head. I’ll get you a complete list with tool numbers so you can find the best deal on them.

 

The injectors will come out as I have no other choice. I ordered two tools for the Job, they take forever to come as likely it’s a china shipped tool.

I am concerned about the secondary bulk head. I can’t figure out how that comes apart. Wipers and cowl cover is off and I had even got to the computer connector, brace is off too.
But that plastic wraps around and I can’t see how it comes undone. I have time to figure it out lol.

I got an injector kit from eBay. Italian made, a little more affordable than the Bosch or Jaguar kits. Teflon is back not white but not sure Incare enough to match next time I open this engine up will be at the 200k service. Lol

 

Those are definitely the tools you need. You will also need the injector seal install and sizing kit. Otherwise the seals might rip when you put them back in the head. You might want to add to the injector puller. In order to make it longer and more effective, we took a bolt that’s approx 6-8 inches long that had the same thread and 4 or so nuts of the same thread. If you can weld or know someone that can, take the nuts and weld them together so that you now you basically have one long nut. Then remove slide from the tool and put it over the bolt and screw both the tool and the bolt into the nut. Now you can actually use the damn thing. Haha.

I don’t think those injector seal will work. The black seals look like the 2.0 turbo seals. And those are a little different. They won’t seal right. But I don’t know. I’ve never used that companies products. I know that every seal kit that has worked have had the white Teflon seals. I know the aftermarket kits that I’ve used have been made by elwis. But I leave the o-ring backer on since the elwis new backers are crap and break on install.

 

Figured out the plastic pieces. Man this Job is pretty time consuming. Kudos to the techs who has this down. I’m a seasoned gear head and this is getting out of hand at times. But definitely learning my way around the engine. The end seems far.

 

One general question, If I don’t remove the three phaser bolts can I time the engine and not have to pretension the phasers? I read the instructions and it seems the three cam bolts are friction bolts it’s seems. I just can’t wrap my head about the cams being locked and the chain sprocket also locked via the chain, yet there is tension adjustment on the phaser independent from the sprocket or the cam? If so then leaving the phasers three bolts alone should remove the pre tension step.

Im I correct on my thinking?