Transmission mount
#1
Transmission mount
Hi all,
Changed my transmission mount and now the car is significantly quieter. I changed it after seeing the rubber of my engine mounts deteriorating (which I changed a few thousand miles ago).
I was hearing what I thought was an engine/exhaust grunt at 1500 rpm when I applied or withdrew my foot from the accelerator pedal. Turns out it was the transmission rattling.
The old mount was visibly okay, similar to the new mount except that the old mount’s rubber was very soft to the touch. In fact the lack of obvious visible damage led me to believe the mount was fine. But it wasn’t, and upon close inspection the rubber was starting to crack.
So my suggestion would be that if you need to replace an engine mount, think about replacing both engine mounts and the transmission mount. The rubber in these mounts seems to age at a similar rate.
I’ll add some photos in the near future.
All the best.
New transmission mount
Cut old mount to reveal hydraulic fluid. Pretty stinky stuff.
Old mount bottoms out with minimal force.
Changed my transmission mount and now the car is significantly quieter. I changed it after seeing the rubber of my engine mounts deteriorating (which I changed a few thousand miles ago).
I was hearing what I thought was an engine/exhaust grunt at 1500 rpm when I applied or withdrew my foot from the accelerator pedal. Turns out it was the transmission rattling.
The old mount was visibly okay, similar to the new mount except that the old mount’s rubber was very soft to the touch. In fact the lack of obvious visible damage led me to believe the mount was fine. But it wasn’t, and upon close inspection the rubber was starting to crack.
So my suggestion would be that if you need to replace an engine mount, think about replacing both engine mounts and the transmission mount. The rubber in these mounts seems to age at a similar rate.
I’ll add some photos in the near future.
All the best.
New transmission mount
Cut old mount to reveal hydraulic fluid. Pretty stinky stuff.
Old mount bottoms out with minimal force.
Last edited by Nedoerr; 12-15-2019 at 11:29 PM.
#3
I was about to undertake replacing mine on my wife's 2012 XJ. What year is yours?
I haven't been able to source or even identify just the mount. I thought the whole bracket including the mount had to be bought together.
What was the part # for just the mount, and where were you able to get it?
Thanks for posting this!
I haven't been able to source or even identify just the mount. I thought the whole bracket including the mount had to be bought together.
What was the part # for just the mount, and where were you able to get it?
Thanks for posting this!
#4
As far as I can see, the "whole shebang" (C2D41711) from the dealership ($198) (here
https://www.jaguarmerriamparts.com/o...Y4LWdhcw%3D%3D
is cheaper than the Eurospare replacement ($216) (example here):
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/fi...smission-mount
Have you found a better price than that?
https://www.jaguarmerriamparts.com/o...Y4LWdhcw%3D%3D
is cheaper than the Eurospare replacement ($216) (example here):
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/fi...smission-mount
Have you found a better price than that?
#6
#7
And of course, often times, the "aftermarket" parts are the exact same part that is the genuine JLR part, from the same manufacturer such as Behr, Moog, other suppliers that JLR gets their parts from.
I'm surprised that the price of that mount itself is only about $13 less than the whole assembly (CD41711) which it's part of.
Thanks for the tip on the stand-alone mount!
Last edited by 12jagmark; 12-20-2019 at 09:16 AM.
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#8
Interesting that it doesn’t cost much more for the whole assembly. I don’t think the bracket gets much wear, but for the small cost added it may make sense.
Also I’ve noticed Jaguar Carlsbad online parts department is very hard to beat in terms of price (for original parts). Though shipping may be more expensive if you live on the other side of the country.
Thanks for commenting about your experience with Eurospare upper control arms. I need to do mine soon too.
All the best.
Also I’ve noticed Jaguar Carlsbad online parts department is very hard to beat in terms of price (for original parts). Though shipping may be more expensive if you live on the other side of the country.
Thanks for commenting about your experience with Eurospare upper control arms. I need to do mine soon too.
All the best.
#9
Nothing to wear as far as the aluminum frames of these assemblies I guess, just the bushings.
I tried to have a shop replace these, but a couple of dealerships and a couple of independent shops all figured about 6 hours to replace them (per side, if I recall correctly), not counting alignment.
The first side took a couple of hours taking a few breaks, going slow & exploring it. The other side took about 40 minutes.
Not much to the front front lower arm. Lift & remove the wheel, remove the wheel well liner, remove two bolts on the control arm, keeping in mind or take a picture of where the alignment cam is on the forward mount, then install. But you do want weight on the "wheel" when you tighten the mounting bolts. I had the jack under the hub/control arms to have the weight on it while I tightened the bolts.
When I took it in for alignment, I was surprised that there was minimal, very little adjustment needed.
Especially on the first side, where I completely removed all lower control arm bolts except the ball joint taper at the front rear lower control arm, where it attaches to the knuckle and everything else attaches to it.
I planned to replace the rear arm also, but couldn't get that ball joint to budge... yet.
But it does ride and handle better from just the front arms, that had the obvious bushing wear.
I tried to have a shop replace these, but a couple of dealerships and a couple of independent shops all figured about 6 hours to replace them (per side, if I recall correctly), not counting alignment.
The first side took a couple of hours taking a few breaks, going slow & exploring it. The other side took about 40 minutes.
Not much to the front front lower arm. Lift & remove the wheel, remove the wheel well liner, remove two bolts on the control arm, keeping in mind or take a picture of where the alignment cam is on the forward mount, then install. But you do want weight on the "wheel" when you tighten the mounting bolts. I had the jack under the hub/control arms to have the weight on it while I tightened the bolts.
When I took it in for alignment, I was surprised that there was minimal, very little adjustment needed.
Especially on the first side, where I completely removed all lower control arm bolts except the ball joint taper at the front rear lower control arm, where it attaches to the knuckle and everything else attaches to it.
I planned to replace the rear arm also, but couldn't get that ball joint to budge... yet.
But it does ride and handle better from just the front arms, that had the obvious bushing wear.
#10
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