OK, it looks like there is a bad fuse that controls many of the vehicles functions, including the trunk. The fuse I need to replace is in the trunk. Can one open the trunk without taking the rear seats out?
I know how to remove the rear seat cushion. But I DO NOT know how to remove the rear seat back.

I tried to access the emergency release for the trunk through the rear arm rest., but that is blocked off with a large fuse panel.

If I have to take out the rear seats, how do I remove the rear seat back? I do how to remove the seat cushion.

If there is no other way to open the trunk, but thru the rear seats, does the rear shelf have to come out as well?

Lots of questions I know. But any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

 

It's a great design, isn't it?

To remove the seat backs just remove the base using the four latching clips along the front and you will see two straps at either end of the seat back in line with the outer headrests. Pull them straight down and it disengages the latch on the back of the seats. You need to do both and then the seat hinges forward from the base and lifts out after disconnecting the wiring.

Some have had success using cable rods to pull the emergency release handle by removing the seat back, dropping down the insulation/liner and fishing through the parcel shelf speaker holes as there is no upper lining in the X351 trunk. Alternatively you can try to remove the white plastic harness protector where the body/infotainment harnesses go through the rear bulkhead and push down the rear wall carpet. It is only wedged so can be pushed hard from as close to the top as you can reach. You can then shine a torch in for a few seconds to 'charge up' the glow in the dark handle. You may need to bend the side carpet out of the way slightly, but should have a straight line to the handle from the LH side.

The techniques were discussed, along with workshop disassembly steps, in another thread on this forum. Unfortunately I am on my phone at the moment which makes it hard to search, but if you need help finding it I will be at my desk tomorrow.

 

Dave, you are a saint . Thank you so much for this info. I will do as you suggest... and report back.

 

That sounds easy... but it is not! I am a pretty handy mechanic and to take the rear seat and parcel tray out of my 2012 XJL to replace the rear deck speakers was nearly impossible and took me a total of 8 hours to pull off..... Getting that rear parcel tray back in the car is EXTREMLEY difficult! I would not suggest doing this job if the car is still under some kind of warranty since blown fuses usually mean an electrical short that could be covered under warranty. Here are some articles that helped me do this job but again I would not recommend you doing this yourself unless you are patient and see yourself as a above average mechanic!
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...g-boot-179912/

https://www.tintdude.com/forum/topic...-deck-removal/

 

If I remember correctly you just recently got your XJ and if so should be under new car warranty. If the car is able to start I'd drive it to the dealer and get a loaner and let them fix it. If, however, you were messing with something and blew the fuse, welcome to a project. Hope it all works out.

 

JXsss and 1Badchevy

As I am still under warranty I dropped by the dealer to see if they could open it. The service wrtiiter told me since their tec wa in training I would have to bring it back. I have an apt for this Friday.

Lastly, what idiot puts the fuse that controls the truck, in the trunk?

alng with the operating of the truck it appears nether same fuse controls the cruise control, the turn signals on one side the head lamps on one side.

Thanks to all all for your support.

 

 

I didn't spot you had a 2017 - absolutely get the dealer to fix this so any damage is on their dime and any replacement parts needed will get warranty.

For reference, 1bad55chevy linked to the thread I was thinking of.

The decision to both prevent access to the trunk from the outside with a key, or from the cabin, and rely on electrical control which has its failure point in the locked trunk was a very bad design choice. It is shared amongst most of their cars. If they absolutely must remove the key option then what would it take to just put a hatch in the rear bulkhead to allow access to the emergency release with rods? There is no added cost - they just need to leave a hole you can get your arm through.

Looking at the schematic for a 2017 MY there may be a way to electrically release the trunk latch from the cabin fuse box by powering the harness connector directly. C3BP01F-6 (0.5mm yellow with orange stripe) appears to be the switched power for the motor that is controlled by the car's entry system. applying +12VDC to that pin, disconnected from the fuse box, may disengage the latch. C3BP01F is shown on the attached drawing.

 

Dave, you are correct. This is a 2107 and still under warranty. I will let the dealer handle this on their dime. (10 pence?) I will mention to the dealer your thoughts on "back" powering the latch from the passenger compartment fuse box as per your schematic. I would think they know this, but one never knows.

I wish I could contribute more to the forum, but I have been out of the repairs business for such a long time that much of todays technology is beyond by grasp.

My last Jag was an 95 x300 and I understand that beautiful car inside and out. I may snoop over in that forum and see if I can help out.

Once agin I want to thank you , XJsss and all others for making me feel welcome and sharing your knowledge.

Cheers...

 

The real question is how a $100K car can come with every option known to man BUT no folding rear seats which are standard in the cheapest car you can buy!

Seems like a big disconnect from the real world!
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Oh, but it does fold down... if your fingers bend at a 90 degree angle and they are 5 inches long to release the button cushion and you have enough strength to pull the 2 straps that hold the back cushion and have a place to store them both. Then you can take an sir chisel and cut out access to the trunk after you move all the electronics and fuses box. Presto... fold down rear seats... time, about an 30 mins. plus the time to rewire.

Of course you are correct terrible over sigh that would have cost them nothing.

​​​​​​​But anyone who puts the fuse that controls the trunk in the trunk, would not have the foresight to make the rear seats foldable.

By the way, that same fuse also control part of the head light, turn signals, cruise control, rear back up cam front park sensor , door locks and electric parking brake. What is left? The car will go forward and backwards. That is about all.

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I am actually glad to see you did not attempt this! I looked at your profile yesterday and saw that you are 74 years old, not saying you couldn't have done it but it almost killed me and I am only 32! Sitting on my knees in the back seat area of that car for hours and hours trying to wrestle that parcel tray back in place was INSANE!

With the knowledge I have now about this job and if my trunk lid failed I would cut a hole through the floor and after it was fixed I would TIG weld the hole back together, I would be done in minutes instead of hours and hours!

 

LOL..... yes, you have a point. When I read how long it took you, I knew full well I was not a candidate for that procedure.
The bad news is, you too will get there....

 

O I know this is coming! I am a disabled army combat vet so this is only going to get worse!

My dad turned 71 last month but SOMEHOW is still driving and maintaining his 72 Camaro which is a high 8 second drag car. He has had to cut his racing way back since he has gotten older because the summer heat at the track (south Texas heat in a fire jacket and a helmet is no fun for anyone) and loading/unloading his trailer really wears him out. Many people talk about when they are going to have to take the car keys away from their parents.... I got to figure out when I am going to have to take the fire jacket and helmet away from mine!

 

He is one of the lucky ones. I can still all the maintenance and service work only because I have use of a rack at a shop. But, there are jobs that require heavy lifting that I can not do. also bending over like in taking out the rear seat of the x351 is impossible for me. As you said, way too much time and fiddelly for an old guy.

I like love this car, but the old 1995 X300 was also a great ride and much easier to work on. I traded it in on this car and for the little I they gave me , Should have kept it.

 

I think this thread proves we are in DESPERATE need of a DIY solution for gaining access to the trunk without damage!

JozJag that was a good one! We DO have folding seats but they are just NOT easy to use.

I hope one of the really sharp members like DaveTibbs or Xdave can come up with something that does no damage and is not an ordeal like removing the rear package tray is. That job is a nightmare to reinstall!
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I have an apt with the dealer tomorrow. I will let them do this as the car is under warranty. If I was to do this job, I would cut an access hole behind the rear sear back for future issues. The fuse for the trunk release also controls the head light, turn signals, cruise control and electric parking brake.

I will post what they do and say.

 

I have never worked on the Jag assembly line but I would be willing to bet any amount of money that parcel tray is installed in the car before the rear glass.

If I had to redo this job again I would remove the rear glass, pop in the parcel tray, then have a glass shop reinstall the glass. the amount of time and effort to do this was insane and would be well worth the $100 in labor. to get my parcel tray back in the car I had to cut the back plastic piece down a bit which allowed it to slide closer to the glass and drop in the grove in the speaker tray and ultimately slide into the hole under the glass.

If my trunk was locked shut I would cut a hole in the trunk floor, fix the issue, then TIG weld the patch back in. I would be done with that in minutes instead of hours and hours!

 

The idea of using a hole saw in the unibody under the trunk, is good. My luck would be I cut into the spare tire and or battery.

 

I believe that they are installed first.

There is a technique to installing, but as ever you don't find it out until you've bled trying every other way! If you have the right tool (in this case a 30cm plastic nail bar with a bend at one end) it is actually quite easy to get that annoying middle section into the hole it mates with. Ideally you need two people though - one to position, and one to push and do the swearing.

I find the upper C-pillar trims the most frustrating to install. The bottom locating section takes at least a dozen attempts to align, and unlike the parcel shelf there is nothing to lever off of. Those must be fitted after the glass though because you connect the tabs from the antenna wires and rear heater wire to the modules under the covers.