I'd like to remove the valve covers of a 5.0L NA, and it doesn't look too complicated other than the direct injection fuel rails(?). It looks like the injectors can remain in place, but the rails must come off.
Have any of you removed the valve covers, or have the manual instructions for removing them?

 

The spark plugs can stay in the head.

Im pretty sure the injectors need to come off, the rail ,Coils and injectors need to be removed. The injector remover tool is $40 from amazon. Then $50 for the Teflon seal tool, at minimum the Teflon seals on the tip needs to be replaced. The viton ones on the rail side is your call. Teflon seals appear to be on backorder from online vendors make sure you can source before tearing things apart.

 

Did you remove the covers for the work you're doing on yours now?
The coils are easy, but I haven't done the fuel rails beyond what is needed to remove the intake manifold (remember mine is an NA, not supercharged that you have).
I've also read a few that the injectors should be replaced when removed, although I don't know why, other than parts like you said and o-rings.
Have you found a manual that includes the valve covers?
I'm trying to get one off of Tradebit, but so far, have only found it for the TD engines.

Thanks for the input, and good luck going forward with your chain tensioners.

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/bet26xniua...kshop.pdf?dl=0

This is the guide I’ve been following, another member posted it.

I am waiting for the injector tool and timing tools. I also want to do a leak down while in there to ensure no serious issues arrived either from my failed repair or from poor maintenance or abuse on the prior owner. I think the spark plug hole is a 12mm thread. Need to find an adapter for it as my leak down tested is for old pushrod engines.

I have not pulled the covers yet. I worked on it today and one of the clip tabs for one of the coil plugs went flying and I got mad at myself and left it alone for the night, my frustration level is high at this point. But now I am past the point of no return.

I plan on reusing the injectors cleaning the tips and replacing the Teflon seal. Search GDI seal replacement in YouTube you will see lots of folks changing the seal without the special 1&2 tool. Some use pens other use a punch to expand a seal and a rubber hose with a clam to compress. Not sure how I will handle that part of the job yet. I can’t find just the seals for a good price. Just a full kit with clips etc for $14 each.

As for the valve covers there is a coolant hose on the right side that will be tough to move over. And also on the XJ next to the fuse box there is a large shield that wraps around the engine bay. I feel that needs to be removed but waiting for the tool to arrive to check the angle. Not being too hopeful though.

The fuel lines be careful if under full pressure, crack the line carefully.

Whats your reason for getting into the valves?

 

The high pressure of the fuel line hasn't been a problem. I've relieved the pressure before at a convenient place on top f the engine where I could fit a cup/rag under the joint, let it settle for a while, pull the fuse then crack the connection to let the small amount of fuel leak out.
I pulled the manifold to replace a cooling hose and isolate a problem with the variable intake runner control.
I'm getting pressure in the cooling system (not in the Jag, another vehicle with the same engine).