I believe it is the valve cover gasket. It doesn't look like I can replace that without at least lifting the engine a little due to the location of the bolts. I'm in work next few days so it'll be next week before I can get a better idea, did you do the work yourself?
Also, the coolant is green. My old jag was the pink stuff, I intend to flush the current system and use the Dex cool once I get the current problem under control. I also found the starter fuse blown, which is why it probably didn't want to start when I went to assess the damage.

 

Yes, I replaced them myself. The engine doesn't have to come out, but it takes a bit of time and isn't quite as easy as a common DIY task.
I got the gaskets from Rock Auto, and since the fuel injectors have to come out, you'll need to replace the injector seals too. AND while you're in there, it may be a good time to replace the spark plugs if they haven't been replaced. The stock spec spark plugs are good for 100k miles.
It's not particularly easy to replace the valve cover gaskets, and it takes a couple special tools for pulling the injectors, re-sleeving them with new seals.
To access the cover fasteners, the fuel rails and cross-over pipe need to be removed, the fuel lines on bank 1 from the HPFPs have to be loosened-up so you can get the Bank 1 cover off, and the chassis covers on each side of the engine, and the panel that goes across the back of the engine compartment, under the wiper arms.
It takes a bit of time & effort.

Since green coolant isn't original or OEM, not maintained/repaired at a dealership or even an independent Jag/Land Rover specialist after some kind of cooling system problem was repaired.
The pink coolant in your old Jag is the same that you should see there.
From the looks of the stuff that flowed out of the pump leak, I'd expect that your radiator is plugged-up pretty good to since those cross channels are pretty thin. Often when any stop leak product is used, it can at least partially clog the radiator - at least the lower portion.

 

Got the compression test kit today, gonna check the pressures tomorrow. Ballpark figures on this, would they be around 150psi? I know they run higher on these engines.
On a side note, if I do have to pull the engine, a Jag breaker just confirmed that the front does indeed come off and you can roll it out of the front. I'm hoping to get a few more details on anything to watch out for. Hoping it doesn't come to that.

 

150 psi would be good. The biggest thing is you want the readings to be consistent and not vary more than 10% between all of the cylinders regardless of the actual number you get on the gauge.
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So, found another leak. I suspect it was a crack that broke completely while removing the bank 1 wining harness.Didn't get to the compression test yet, but it's prepped and ready for the morning. Oh, and cylinder 6. What a fiddly b#@$h that was.

 

Yes all rubber/plastic components at this point are in the same condition.
Age and temperature tear stuff up!
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I've been trying to find the elbow connectors but I'm only finding the whole hose assemblies at $$$. The jag breaker I'm in touch with has some that aren't as old, so may take the risk.Would obviously prefer new but I'm already looking at a hefty bill just on parts, and that's relying on the heads not being warped.

 

Compression test done. Not good news. Bank 1 results, 215, 180, 220, 230. Bank 2 220, 165, 150, 160.
I did notice some build up on top of the valves but i would suspect that would have given running issues prior to the water pump issue.
I think it's toast. Do I chance pulling the heads and see if I can get them skimmed? or does the short block warp along with the heads?

 

I don't think you will find the elbows offered separately? They are all part of the assembly so afraid that yes you will need to buy the entire hose. Maybe post part numbers to see if anyone can help?

Before giving up have you put a dab of oil in each cylinder? That often improves things. I have not seen high numbers such as 230 before?
With the expense of all this I would consider putting it back together and see how it runs? I have had engines with widely varying numbers and they for sure needed to be rebuilt. But I have gotten them to run fairly well anyway.

We have not seen great luck with just skimming the heads? Yes if your selling the car that might be the way to go but several of our experienced members have stated that if the engine was cooked it distorts the block as well. So skimming the heads might not be enough. It all depends on how hot for how long the engine was run.

Do you have a good straight edge to check the block after the heads are off?
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I didn't try the oil as the pressures were consistent. Anything less than 200 was measured 3 times and twice for over. I read if the piston rings were the issue, the values would be a little more random? I can't say much for the calibration of the gauge, but it was one of the highest rated and popular on amazon.
I got a quote from a breaker, used engine, less than 90k, for $3150 delivered, plus he'll throw in the hose and a few other cosmetic bits.
I may pull block 2's head this weekend, seeing that's the worst, since I'm part way there already. The good lady said it happened less than 2 miles from where she stopped, I think that may be enough though. The cylinders that measure ok, seem to be the ones around the pump and the broken pipe. maybe the leaking fluid kept them cool enough to survive, lol, Or, maybe there is a head gasket leak into the coolant channels and the extra pressure caused the pump and hose to blow out in the first place? I've seen similar before on a VW. Took out radiator, header tank and a couple of hose fittings.
With this engine, I'd have to spent a fair few bucks ($600+) on parts, tools and fluids just to put it back together and fix the leaks, Thinking get the used engine, overhaul and swap out, sell anything salvageable from the toast. If I go that route, I'll create another thread with steps and pics to help anyone else who wants to chance it. I don't have a hoist or lift at home but the breaker assures me it can be done without.

 

1am, staring at the ceiling, had an epiphany. Maybe the pressure is so high on 4 cylinders because it's been previously skimmed? if the head was warped, it would certainly explain the differences if it was skimmed to a level finish. Just a pillow thought.

 

Interesting comment!
We have seen at least one car where they did skim the heads more than once and he looked around and found a thicker head gasket when he put it back together.
Same sort of thoughts you have about increasing the cylinder pressure too much.

Sounds like you have a plan so looking forward to you fixing this. With all the cheap endoscopes out there have you thought of taking a look thru the spark plug holes? If it is a head gasket you should see some clean piston tops from all the coolant going thru the cylinder?
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I do have an endoscope actually. Will have to dig it out. I remember the last head gasket job I did, on a VW 2.0 CCTA, cylinders 1 and 2 nice and shiny, kicked my OCD pretty hard putting it back together with 3 and 4 still dirty, lol.
I'm off work tomorrow, and i expedited the shipping on the parts I need apart from the hose, so I can check the cylinders and put most of it back together tomorrow. Probably remove the radiator and flush the gunk too. If all goes well, I'll get to the leaking valve cover after we get back from vacation.

 

If/when you pull the heads, could you take note of how tight the head bolts are when you remove them? I don't imagine you have a torque meter/dial type of wrench, but if you have a torque wrench, you could roughly check them.
Just curious if you might find a bolt or two that are a little loose.
I'm hoping for the best and that you don't have to go that deep, but if you do...

 

That's something I'll certainly check when I pull the valve covers to replace the gaskets, if I get that far. For torque wrenches, I have a 1/2" Harbor Freight special and a 3/8 digital adapter, so not the most accurate of tools. In my day job, we count ft/lbs in ugga duggas .

 

In my experience with the AJ133 and AJ126 variant, none have been successfully resealed once overheated. As has been suggested, use a straightedge with a feeler gauge in at least nine places across the cylinder head(s) and block mating surfaces to check for warpage. If the head(s) or block are warped 2 mm or more, they can be machined/skimmed to be straight, however, the cam bores may also be distorted, which cannot be machined back to specifications.

If the head(s) or cylinder block are warped, it's best to find a used engine with similar miles that HAS NOT BEEN OVERHEATED as a replacement.

 

I already have a quote for a replacement engine. What was throwing me was the high compression readings. It's led me to believe it's been skimmed previously, and may have survived this incident. No cylinder was less than 150. Replacing the pump and putting everything back together will be the test. I would expect misfires and/or exhaust in the coolant circuit if the heads are bad. Most cost effective would be an engine replacement if that's the case. Quotes are in place, rest of the parts in the carts of Amazon and Rock Auto. If I can document everything here, advice, ideas, experience, it may help others down the line.

 

You won't have access to the head bolts just by pulling the valve covers, since the head bolts on the AJ133 are under the camshafts. So if you do have to pull the heads, the camshafts have to come off in the process. With that in mind, make sure that the specific tools for camshaft timing are included in the list that you ordered. Of course that's in addition to the tools to pull the injectors & install new seals on the injectors, etc...
Example:
Camshaft Alignment Petrol Engine Timing Tool Kit For Jaguar Land Rover (V8) 5.0L | eBay
...but then you're probably already a step ahead.

It's nice of you to report what you find & how you find it, but also keep in mind that this has happened before, and there are other forums that do give pretty good descriptions of the same experience, but mostly in Land Rover forums.
There is a post in here from Baltobernie not too long ago that gave a link to a good source or two about rebuilding the AJ133, supercharged, but otherwise the same once you get to the heads.

 

More solid advice, thanks. I do have the injector tools, that was to address the valve cover leak, I wasn't looking at pulling the heads at that point. I haven't tore one of these down before, so I do expect the need for special tools etc. Previously, I've just found TDC, chalked up and used the timing chain marks to set the cams and crank position,. but that's just been on straight blocks. I'll get that set ordered if I do pull the heads hough.. I remember VW using a special adapter to remove the VVT adjuster, is that the case on these too?

 

There are special tools needed for disassembly of the AJ133:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/19535911677...3ABFBM5pCgiLph

and

https://www.ebay.com/itm/26567788467...3ABFBM5pCgiLph