Note that some 5.0 litre units have left-handed threads on the crankshaft bolt. Refer to the AJ133 Workshop Manual for details and correct camshaft timing.


https://www.dropbox.com/s/k214bnpsi2...ining.pdf?dl=0

 

Yes there are two crankshaft bolts. As posted above one left hand and the other right hand. They are marked so do know that. Now we have also been told that the 5.0L engine can ONLY be rotated in one direction! Clockwise looking at the front of the engine. Bearing damage is possible if you turn it backwards according to Jaguar. Why I don't know but have seen this several times in the repair documents. It's all shown in the attached document on removing the damper.

It takes a big torque wrench too! 600 N-M
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Quick update, Between work and waiting on parts, progress has been a little slow. I had to replace more coolant system components, but had the engine and coolant system back together yesterday evening. Initially a no start, found starter motor fuse blown, probably from all the start/stops when running compression tests. Used a jump cable to bypass and after a few cranks, fired right up. No engine codes or apparent coolant leaks. Happy bunny. Just need to complete the system flush and replace the distilled water with coolant, then put everything back together. Appreciate the pointers and info from you guys.

 

Great to hear!
Always nice to see it work even after that starter blown fuse scare!
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How deep did you end-up having to go?
If you pulled the heads, did you find any surprises with the head bolts, heads or block?
Did you find a leak in a head gasket?
Did the engine cooperate pretty well, other than the starter fuse?

 

Pretty much all the coolant system removed, cleaned up and defective parts replaced. Had the radiator out and filled with distilled and flush solution for a few hours to loosen up any crap. Replaced the coolant sensor next to the firewall. It's probably ok but is pretty gummed up with the stop leak stuff.
I didn't even remove the valve covers on the block yet. i was waiting to run the engine after the coolant rebuild to see where my cash was going to get invested (new engine or repair this one). With the compression tests indicating a previous head gasket repair, I'm not going to even try to remove the heads now. It's likely been skimmed to it's limit.
After the fuse issue, she fired right up. Had it running for over 30 minutes with no issues, misfires of engine codes. There is a little smoke in the gap between bank 2 and the wheel well, under the coolant header tank. Doesn't smell like exhaust. I'm inclined to think it maybe from the valve cover? there is evidence of an oil leak right over the exhaust manifold. I've now ordered the valve cover gaskets and have done the oil and filter changes. I also need to replace a downstream o2 sensor. My next day off, I will be putting it together enough for a test drive.
Incidentally, I found the harbor freight $7 transfer pump and a zip tie on the tube where you connect to the oil vacuum line a very economical solution in absence of a dedicated pump.

 

Have you bought seal kits for the injectors yet?
They're pretty expensive for what they are, as far as I can tell anyway.
The best price I found was on Rock Auto, and surprisingly NOT listed under the vehicle.
I had to search for Elring part number 306.400 in the Rock Auto website, that's the best place I found price-wise at the time.
I suspect Elring is the OEM supplier for these to JLR.

BUT if you look under 2012 Land Rover Range Rover (same 5L engine as the XJ), fuel injectors, they now offer a seal kit from GB for under $9 (per injector).
Of course, some would suggest that you go ahead & replace whole injectors "while you're there", in which case you wouldn't need to buy replacement seals.
But instead of the $9 each for seals, it would be $77 each for whole new injectors that come with new seals. So effectively you would have brand new Bosch (I believe Bosch supplies JLR for injectors) injectors for the price of $68 (each) over the price of just replacing the seals.
(of course you can recoup some of that cost by selling your good used injectors on Ebay)

And remember that access to the valve covers is MUCH easier when you remove the coolant surge tank on the driver side, the panel around fuse box on the passenger side, and the sound isolation panels both driver and passenger side.
Actually it's pretty impossible to get to the valve covers without remooving them.
For the best help on what to remove & how, I suggest subscribing to the JLR Topix website for the week or so that you work on it, where you have access to the genuine Jaguar tech manuals that the dealerships use.

 

Kudos to you on being able to reach 155,000 having minor issues, Mark. I am at 34,000 in my 2012 XJ. Reading these posts kinda scared me. I purchased a water pump just in case I run into that issue. Looks like Rothwell is a little concerned too.

 

I already had the valve seal kit, ready for another rainy day. Unfortunately more issues developed.
First, I had another coolant leak, the small hose connector just above the thermostat housing. This was as I was leaving work so I patched it and filled with distilled water. Halfway home, low coolant warning, kicked myself because in the chaos of fixing the pipe, I neglected to put the coolant cap back on. Filled again with the cap on and 2 miles down the road, red message for engine overheating. Fast forward, air lock in system, got home eventually.
Got all the replacement parts for the coolant system and fitted along with the upper suspension mounts which had perished.
Drove fantastic for 2 days. Headed to a beer festival with a few friends and just as we arrive, rough idle, loss of power and a whole lot of white smoke from bank 1's exhaust.
The heat damage may have been too much, or something else that's plausible, the amount of stop leak in the system may have plugged an early stage head gasket failure. And since the flushing with fresh coolant, it finally breached.
I'm currently breaking down the top end, but did notice off the bat, all 4 cams are 2 links out from the timing marks. Reinforces my earlier assumption, with the compression readings, that the heads have been off before, although this could have just been to fix the tensioners. This is becoming more challenging by the day, but on the plus side, my tool collection has grown exponentially!

 

Great work! Hard to believe it ran that good being off 2 teeth? I have seen even one tooth off makes the car undriveable or close to it.
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Actually 2 whole links! it was off on the crank sprocket by the same amount, so probably just not lined up when the chain was previously re-installed. I'm just waiting on the ribe socket to I can pull the head bolts right now. I thought I could get away with a T60 torx as I would replace the bolts anyway, first bolt came out great, 2nd not so much.

 

Yes I leaned about Ribe fasteners in this thread. Close to Torx but definitely different. I currently don't have any Ribe stuff as I had never heard of it before?
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Ribe bits arrived yesterday. 12mm is the one but had to step up to a 13 and a 5lb persuader to convince the damaged bolt to comply. Had to take a short walk with with some expletives trying to get the 3 torx bolts to the harness clip and coolant bridge hose out. Cements my opinion that design engineers will climb over 100 virgins to screw a technician, lol., but finally got the head off. Breach hit mainly cylingers 1,2 with 3 looking like it felt at least some of the coolant. The head gasket itself doesn't look breached, but there a little evidence that the layers separated due to the presence of the previously mentioned stop-leak between the layers. Need to get the head checked for the possiblity of skimming, plus the block itself to determine if it's repairable. Evidence suggests head is warped though, unfortunately.

 

So as far as you could tell, all of the head bolts were torqued to spec - no loose bolts?
Hopefully the head's good (did you pull both, or one suspect head?).

I'll get around to doing this on my Range Rover (The XJ is still fine), but I think I may just get a new head if the existing one(s) is damaged. I'm more worried of a crack than a warped head though.
A new head from JLR is about $2400, but it's not like it needs them often. And I assume that's a bare head.

It would be nice if a quality machine shop built aftermarket heads.

Best of luck - and I hole everything checks out good - but then what would have caused the problem?

 

Deffo bank 1 had the failure, the white smoke was out of that exhaust alone, so have just pulled that for now. All the bolts were very tight. I did Nick the edge of cylinder one on the head during removal, so will have to get skimmed anyway. I did find this on closer examination of the gasket. It's from the coolant port, so could possibly be the source of the failure.

 

Block cleaned up and inspected. Lots of seafoam spray and elbow grease with 1200 and 2000 grit. Took multiple sessions over 3 days and overnight soaking to clear the gasket seal and coolant
stop-leak gunk. there's a good 0.5mm thick coat of that crap lining the coolant chamber around the cylinders, hopefully not too much to hinder performance.
No warping, no noticeable cracks or distortion on the block (straight edge and .030" shim), so went ahead and ordered the gaskets and new head bolts. Local shop skimmed and pressure tested
the head for the princely sum of $90.
Apart from the nick, he did say there was a little warping. Now waiting on the parts before final polish up with 3000 and 5000 then re-assembly. Block 2 will be next. Although the gasket didn't blow
on that side, the pressure tests were similar to block one, so I'm going to work that too, to make sure and it's halfway disassembled already.