I am on travel down to Gulf Shores, AL and to my disbelief, the water pump failed on me. Fortunately, I was able to get to my place where I am staying without overheating the car, but it is leaking something fierce. The nearest Jag dealership is 80 miles away. So, i am working with a local shop to get a new water pump in. The shop is not necessarily familiar with Jags, but they are confident that they can do it. I have told them that I can assist if they have questions as I have done the previous water pump change. Gave them a few pointers (trying not to step on their toes).. So, we will see. So, we have a down kitty a 1,000 miles from home. OH boy. I guess I have never seen a water pump fail as hard and fast as this one did.

 

Thermo,

I feel your pain! Was it the latest 3909 that went "Poof"?

wombat

 

Hey I have a new pump if you are interested. PM me

 

Thanks to both of you. Not sure what version of the water pump it is, but that pump has been in the car for 2-3 years. Funny thing about the whole thing was the water pump has been doing fairly good recently then it suddenly will not hold water. We'll see what the shop says. The leak is severe enough, thinking about it, almost makes me think I blew a hose. I just know that it is coming out from behind the water pump as it is spraying the coolant everywhere. We'll see what the shop says. With no tools, hard to diagnose it much beyond "lots of water coming from this area".

 

Could it be between the pump and the oil cooler?

 

Mark, quite possibly. This is where I couldn't get to things well enough to tell what exactly failed. The most likely part is the water pump. I figure as they get the water pump off, the actual failed part will be fairly obvious. Just waiting on the shop to start working on the car to hear the final outcome.

 

Well it probably wouldn't make a difference in what you'll have replaced. The piece that connects the pump to the oil cooler (under the intake manifold) is plastic, unless it's a Uro brand (available from rock Auto) which is metal.

More Information for ÜRO PARTS LR028136PRM (rockauto.com)

And of course there are seals at the pump side and the oil cooler side.
You have to remove the pump to get to it of course, and you/your mechanic might go ahead & replace the pump while you've got it off.
But the good thing about these cars (the NA, anyway) is that there isn't much in the way of taking the water pump off, since it has electric fan(s) instead of an engine-driven fan as.it's Land Rover sibling application of the same engine. The hardest part of replacing the pump on my 2012 Range Rover (with the same engine as our 2012 XJ) is getting the fan off. Not an issue with our XJs.
But if someone replaced your pump a couple years ago & didn't replace the interconnect between the pump & oil cooler when they did (which probably isn't normally replaced?), it could be that.

 

Good to know that there's a metal replacement for that pipe now.

 

Thanks for posting the metal tube. Should have been stock too!
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Well, talking with the shop, they are saying that I had 3 leaks, the pump, the adapter to the oil cooler, and the oil cooler itself. They are working on getting the car back together. So, we'll see what the final cost is. They are replacing more parts than the initial quote was for. So, we'll see. Being stuck where I am, I don't have a lot of choice other than to pay what they are saying. I just find it interesting that there were 3 leaks I am thinking it is just the transition piece, but we'll see.

 

I'd ask them to return all the parts they removed so you can inspect them when you get home. I'd be wanting to see exactly where the oil cooler is leaking. I've only read one other oil cooler replacement story on here and it was just another "the service advisor said it was leaking" kind of story and not a DIYer. I'm about convinced there's nothing wrong with the pumps tho, but something else about the design of the cooling system. The front shaft seal and those funky o-rings on that plastic tube behind it are simply the weakest links. Replacing the tube with a metal one is kind of a moot point. You're going to have that pump R&R'd at least four times before that plastic tube is old enough to get brittle and break on its own.

 

Did they look at the crossover pipes. Normally when they puke alot, its the seam on the crossover that delaminated. I would make sure they look at that. Never have i seen the oil cooler leak but thats just me.

 

Well, I got the car back and now I have misfires on cylinders 2, 4, 6, and 8. The car has never had the temp gauge go above the mid point that I have seen.. So, I am loading the car up on a trailer and hauling it home as my time on vacation has come to an end. Starting the car is a PITA and requires applying some gas pedal. Once you get it started and get the engine RPMs up to say 2,000, the motor seems ok. But, you let it come down to idle and it will barely run and shakes pretty good. Hopefullly this is just a pinched wire some where that is causing this.

So, if you have some points to look at, Of note, the intake was removed off of the car. So, this opens up a few points of interest for me.

 

I'm wondering if they removed the intake did they use new gaskets?

 

Maybe something wrong with the MAF sensor or wiring on that bank? Or they might have fussed with the PCV hose?

 

I was thinking if its all one bank, it could be a vacuum leak on that side. When I had the manifold off my XF, I remember a bunch of wires, tubes and hoses that were affixed to the manifold and other points on the engine to keep them in place. I had to dislodge or cut several of those fixtures to be able to remove the manifold. What professional shops rarely do, since they are trying to go as fast as possible, is they skip reattaching those fixtures if they are hard to reach, rather they just shove the tubes and wires out of their way as best they can. Because I'm so obsessive-compulsive, I keep a supply of push-mount cable ties and I spent a good bit of time "fussing" with putting all of those back the way they're supposed to go, which wasn't easy with the engine in the car, so little access for my fat hands. But I can imagine a mechanic in a hurry using long screwdrivers to push wires out of his way while setting the manifold back in place, not being able to see where all those wires and tubes wind up under there. If one wire slipped in between the gasket mating surfaces or that hose under the manifold does not run in the right channel, he could cause a vacuum leak across a whole bank. But that's just guessing.

 

Sounds stupid, but last time I had a water pump blow the cable for the engine on one bank got disconnected and threw all those codes. It was as simple as making sure everything was snugly connected in and the codes went away.

Worth a look at least!

 

SovietKitsch, when you say the cable for the engine, are you taking the major cable that goes through the firewall? If not, which one are you referring to? I need to get out there and look some more. I was initially thinking he may have disconnected the ground for the coils on the one side as there is a very strong smell of fuel coming from the car. But, I have not located the location of the Bank 2 coil ground. I did an initial ground check by disconnecting one coil and measuring to ground and got 2.5 ohms, but after putting everything back together, realized that the check I did was probably meaningless as I had a bunch of parallel paths that I was potentially going through to give me that reading. So, need to look a little deeper into the car when I can get time.

I can't imagine having a bad head gasket at this point for 2 reasons: 1) after the point that the car should have overheated (granted, the temp gauge never moved from the center), the car was allowed to cool and the car started fine and did a few times there after, never running the car for more than about a minute. 2) I cannot say that I have ever heard of a bad head gasket taking out all 4 cylinders on one side of a motor and causing misfires.

 

Good luck to you, Mike Chris (sorry, I was recalling someone else at that moment), and I hope you can get it sorted out. These cars are VERY complicated to work on, nothing like the old Chevy I-6s that I began to learn on.....

 

I wonder if a few of the injectors on that bank could have failed by coincidence