Put some new tires on the car today. I went with the new Michelin Pilot Sport AS4s to replace the Bridgestone RE980AS which were on it. The rears only lasted about 12,000 miles. I have about 1500 miles of driving planned over the Thanksgiving holiday and the West Virginia Turnpike in late November is not the place to be with questionable tires.

 

I stopped by Galpin Jaguar and placed an order for the bolts, #AJ813795. Unfortunately the only dealership who has them currently in stock is in Honolulu. So now we just have to wait.

I did some more smoke tests last night and I'm 99% sure there are no other leaks but I'll of course check again once I put the throttle and intake all back together again.

 

like he said "Yikes "

 

Just the straight 5 liter, and I let off at 140,as I was running out of road, my tires are a brand I never heard of but when I googled the name (don't remember) they are English I believe because the price was in pounds

 

Most V-8's have a 155 mph limiter. What is the speed rating of the tires that you purchased? It's marked on the sidewall.
If driving at these speeds I would be very aware of that rating and what brand of tires your running.

I only run Michelin Pilot Sport 4S even though they are too damn expensive! These are the tires the car should have come with stock.
I would like to run the Pilot Super Sports but they are even more expensive.

My XJR came with a 174 mph limiter and my VAP tune set it to 199 mph.

I have YET to exceed that number!
But I have exceeded the stock setting on a track.
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V6s are 121, supercharged V8s are 155, Speed Package and 550HP XJRs are 174, and 575 XJR are 186 MPH limiters

 

Well, the new throttle body gasket and bolts did not fix things. The car started up fine and idled nicely for a few minutes. According to the live data, the fueling went into Closed Loop very quickly but the engine was running fine, not like before where it would only run ok in Open Loop. The LTFTs started off around 25% on both banks while the STFTs were around -5% or so. But after a few minutes LTFTs started to slowly creep up on me while the STFTs stayed still for the most part. In park, I revved the engine up to 2k rpm and the trims dropped back down to around 20-25%. Once back idling, they continued their trek northward until LTFTs were at around 80% and STFTs near 0%, at which point the engine starts to misfire.

I quickly ran another smoke test while the engine was still warm and still found nothing. No codes, which is mindboggling considering how lean the trims are. I'm not sure where to look next.

 

Thats annoying. TBH, I think I would take it in at this point. It could be the fuel pressure sensor sending bad pressure readings, but it gets to be a bit of a rabbit hole.

 

Fuel pressure looks fine in the live data. The factory training manual states that startup pressure should be 2176psi and idle pressure should be around 435psi, which is just about spot-on. And the engine runs nice and smooth when I bring up the rpms, no stuttering or anything, so I think I can cross fuel delivery issues off the list.

I graphed the throttle positions while slowly pressing down and letting up, everything looked normal there, so I can cross throttle position sensor off the list.

I'll check for exhaust leaks in the manifold and converter flanges but I think that would show up on the O2 data and it would be odd for both banks to suffer leaks at the same time, I think.

I was reading through the factory training manual to see if anything would jump out at me. I read the section regarding the evap canister purge valve, and from further reading, it appears that when it fails, it can basically become a vacuum leak and creates a lean condition in both banks, as it dumps the fuel vapor into the intake just after the throttle, next to the MAP sensor and PCV fitting. The fuel trims do try to stabilise when I raise the rpms, which usually is the classic sign of a vacuum leak.

Technically, a failing purge valve should throw a code but I know from past experience that that isn't always the case (I'm not even getting any lean codes with my crazy fuel trims, for corn's sake!).

The manual also states that the purge valve is not commanded on until the engine coolant temperature has reached 131 degrees, and according to my live data, the valve started to open at 104 degrees and was 99.2% open at 127 degrees.

Another odd thing is that the upstream lambda sensor readings don't seem to indicate an actual lean condition (if I correctly understand how they work).

I am fortunate enough that I don't actually need the car right now, so I'd like to see if I can figure this out on my own, and then when all else fails, I'll take it to the professionals. Its actually quite an interesting mystery.

 

I thought a bad evap canister purge valve would result in rich condition as it will add fuel without it being requested. Either way I think you can rule that out by disconnecting and capping off the inlet. That would be the same as a closed valve.

EDIT: I guess if it is stuck closed you can get lean condition. Capping it off wouldn’t check that scenario

 

Waxed my XJ today. Last weekend i changed winter tyres (spiked ones) under it. Added more ACF-50 (ACF-50 and Corrosion Block total Corrosion Control ) on sunroof metal frames where normaly the corrosion are seen. (btw: that cured my sunroof noices in total - really good stuff) Threat all door/trunk/sunroof seals with silicone.
Winter can now come. It´s 3rd winter now with XJ and i am much more confident with it. 600Nm (442lb) torgue are bit handfull on ice and snow, but the electronics of XJ have cat like reflects -- allmost as good as mine
Stay safe!!

 

Today, I'm picking up my XJL with new to me engine. I reset the clock from 61k miles to 50k on this motor. The shop replaced my timing chain tensioners/guides with the updated part numbers for future proofing while they had the engine out. For reference, in case this should happen to someone else: Motor was 10k delivered, parts and labor for swapping over supercharger and accessories & including the upgrade ended up being $4600. My starter got fried trying to turn over my original seized engine, so that added a surprise $600 for a Denso unit to be installed.

My water pump and whole coolant system I updated about a year and half ago, so I'll just watch my tubes for the next few years.

Will update, I'm sure!

 

Interesting! How did you reset it from 61k TO 50k miles?
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^ Sorry, just a figure of speech in this case, I think you have to report any mileage changes to the state.
It runs and drives fantastic in the 30 minute drive home. A little burnt oil smell but I imagine that's some runoff. I will drive for longer tomorrow after work and will see how it smells.

 

After getting my replacement engine installed I finally got a chance to wrap my front splitter parts and install them. I would not buy these again but I think for the purpose fit and finish are acceptable. I got paint match vinyl from Colormatchwrap.com and would recommend their product. It’s Avery and I don’t really like how it responds to heat but it wrapped ok. I am not great at tucking edges.

 

What a pretty car! Sorry to hear of all your repairs but glad to see the car back and driving again.
Really love that light blue too. What does Jag call that color?

Just noticed the "R" on the grill? You added that?
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Thanks! Turns out my blowby problem was in Bank 1 Cylinder 1. Lots of scoring caused by oil starvation. My chain tensioners were in good shape, a little burr on the exterior of the hardened contact area, but not bad. At least I can rest a bit easier knowing I have the updated versions. I'll be watching my coolant levels as I'm always anxious about fluid smells after getting a vehicle back from major service that I did not perform myself.

The color code is JKF (Land Rover Honolulu Blue, Crystal Blue Metallic for regular XJ/L Supercharged, or Osmium Blue on XJR).
The exterior mods are all OEM except the Mina Gallery front splitter which came white from fellow forum member NvmyJag. In my effort to convert exterior to get closer to the 2014 XJR design. The black surrounds/lower grille pieces are also Mina which were of better quality. I left off the bonnet with vents and rear spoiler as I still prefer it to appear less aggressive. I normally don't mess with badges, but with a crank pulley/tune what is really the difference between a stock XJR? I updated the badges when I removed the original chrome grill surround which was quite pitted.

This weekend I plan on finishing my winter preventative maintenance checklist and finally cleaning and fluid filming the exposed suspension & subframe components to prepare for Wisconsin salt. Still working from home so at least I'll be able to garage park it when I want to.

 

I did it! Finally ordered a VAP tune and lower pulley. Can't wait to feel the difference.
Anyone else out there recently make the leap, and what was your first reaction?

 

It's fun - I added crank pulley and tune last year. Find a dry spot and turn off your TC and then you'll really feel it pull.

On a separate note, the smell I was smelling I determined to be coolant and bought an inspection mirror to check out the water pump. Minor staining underneath the pump, and a hard drive showed it to be seeping a bit more than drips at the weep hole area.The shop told me they replaced all my accessories and I assumed water pump was included. They confirmed it was not, and I had lost about 2 gallons over 2 days of mild sporadic driving. Dropped it back off and they did the work this morning. They swapped over my old water pump and all seems to be ok now. It will take me another 3 days to vet out that solution - they showed me the vehicle under pressure so I trust it's not leaking. However, my nose and eyes will always confirm

 

I did just did the tune on my V6 AWD. Supposed to have jumped it from 340 to 416 HP. It will push you hard back in the seat when you get into it hard. The V8 will definitely be quite lively. Hope you have some good buddies down at the tire shop.LOL