So heres a thread explaining the many issues I’m having with my 2011 XJL. I’m posting here thinking that all or some of these issues may be related and quite possibly I should be doing separate posts for each issue but I felt like maybe every issue should be talked about together.

so here we go.

1. I have a TPMS code on the dash (tire pressure monitoring system fault) and when scanned with my scan tool I get two codes:
C1D21 wheel module
B10AD rain sensor
why there’s a rain sensor code associated with tire pressure monitoring codes I haven’t a clue but it’s listed in that section. Also my mechanic reads each wheel sensor with a wireless tool and each is transmitting a good signal and in my scan tool the ID numbers all match up but also in the scan tool it says “number of unregistered wheel units 4” I don’t get how the sensors are good and the sensor ID numbers are listed for each wheel but yet it says number of un registered units 4... another odd one is that before changing my battery the TPMS light would only come on after about 15 minutes of driving but now with the new battery this warning light is on all the time unless I disconnect the negative battery terminal for a bit then the warning will stay off for about 15 minutes.maybe a previous owner used the wrong MHz units maybe there a bigger issue.

2. I have a code which is causing check engine light
P240A EVAP System Leak Detection Pump Heater Control Circuit/Open

3. I have a mild clunk I hear in the dash when going over bumps which started off as a massive clunk but I’ve thrown a bunch of parts at it and each step of the way it improved the clunk little by little bit it’s still not all the way gone. Ok- stick with me this will all tie together soon.

4. I’m getting a light rub from my left front tire to the front inside of the wheel well lining when traveling around a right turning corner at 45mph or above.

5. THE BIG ONE - on two occasions now I was turning to the right at around 55mph and I hear the rub described above then I straighten out the wheel and get up to about 65-75mph when all the sudden I get a message that says “Cruise Control Unavailable” then a message in red saying “Restricted Performance” and the vehicle goes into a limp mode which is only cured by a code wipe by a scan tool. When scanning immediately after these faults the scanner reads:
Engine Codes
P240A Evaporative emission system leak detection pump heater - circuit open
P2105 Throttle actuator control system - forced engine shutdown
P061A Internal control module torque performance
P2135 throttle/pedal position sensor/switch A/B voltage correlation.
I was not using cruise control and the cruise control does work as normal after a code clear.

6. I have a code that is displayed in the Electronic Parking Brake section of my scan tool
U0415 Invalid data received from ABS control module

ok so, why do I think these things are correlated?
well, the clunk is something I’ve been chasing down and I’ve replaced every suspension part except strut coils and strut mounts. The car leans heavy in the front left when I’m turning right at 45 mph and above and the tire rubs, coincidentally this same turn while rubbing has caused the restricted performance issue and I also have an ABS code which could be caused from the wheel area maybe. I have read a post from someone here regarding the EVAP PUMP where his issue was corrosion and again my thought is maybe if there’s a corroded cable then maybe it’s causing a short or something which maybe could cause all these issues?

I still drive the car, it’s a great car and runs and drives perfectly aside from the two times it’s gotten into the restricted mode and the annoying warnings on the dash.

I've replaced my battery with no improvements to these issues.

I have an appointment for strut coils and strut mounts and inner ty rods on both sides next week as inner ty rods are clunking and I believe the strut coils will make the mild rub go away.

I’ve replaced so far since I got the vehicle two months ago: lower control arms, front shocks, sway bar bushings, sway bar links, both engine mounts, transmission mount, a hose near the top of the engine on the passenger side that was leaking coolant, headlight bulbs.

maybe this stuff is somehow related to the front bumper harness? I’m clueless and my mechanic is saying maybe the vehicle needs to go to jaguar service next.

What is your thoughts about this being a short from a corroded EVAP pump connector?

 

That's a lot of stuff!
For the TPMS fault, was 12 VDC provided to your care while the battery was being replaced, to keep any volatile memory from getting lost? If not were the wheel sensor serial numbers reprogrammed into the TPMS control module after the battery was replaced?
Do you have the SDS tool, subscribe to it from Topix, or some other way?
It could be a TPMS controller fault too.
The Jaguar dealership would likely be your best bet and a good investment to diagnose all of those problems.
I've always liked working on my own vehicles, and I'm habitually skeptical of service centers and dealerships, but with Land Rover and Jaguar, I've found that the service centers are surprisingly helpful and a good value, at least the Jag dealership I've been used in the Tampa Bay area for some things.

At 8 years old, a lot of the rubber in the suspension is due for replacement. It sounds like you're there as far as control arms, sway bar bushings, trans & motor mounts, shock bearings & mounts (you did replace the shock "bearing" along with the mount, didn't you?).

 

no, I didn’t supply power to the vehicle when doing the battery swap. The serial numbers for the TPMS did retain in the TPMS control module from what I read with my scan tool. I don’t know what a SDS tool is but the tool I’m using to scan the vehicle is a Snapon Modus Ultra.

so far, I think servicing through the jaguar service would be the best bet as I honestly don’t have much faith in my regular mechanic unless I’m bringing him my GMC Yukon or another US manufacture.

as far as the bearings, I’m not sure if they had that on the quote, I’ll have a look at that. The work replacing the springs/strutmounts and ty rods will occur at the end of this week as they are still waiting on parts. I’ll make sure they do the bearings.

 

That is a lot of items. I would start with the faults I know and then fix them and see what else remains after each progressive repair. The rubbing tire, if you can see it, is an easy one and sounds like it coincides (for whatever reason) with your going into limp mode. I would fix this first. I would also check, on this wheel in particular, whether each TPMS detector is still in the correct place in the wheel well as you’ve been knocking in around with the collision. If it is dangling down, you will have a constant TPMS error code. But I would still change all the sensors. Your sensors are due anyway and it is a cheap peace of mind.

If that doesn’t make a serious dent in your codes, I would probably also take it in to Jaguar too. At minimum they could just diagnose the errors for you; just pay for diagnostic time.

 

One last thing, noticed that you wrote that you “hear” the wheel rubbing at high speed and turning right. If you don’t “see” this happening, I would check your left wheel hubs/ bearings. That would make more sense to me.

 

The SDS is the Jaguar Land Rover tool that is used at the dealerships. It's made available on TOPIx, the JLR support.

As far as the shock bearing, it degrades and falls apart along with the shock mount itself. The bearing assembly interfaces the shock to the shock mount.
Item 7, here:
https://www.roverjaguarparts.com/oem...lator-c2d16903

 

good advice, I have been curious about the TPMS detector also. The detector looks like an antenna from a older home stereo and is flat, ive
been curious to know if a detector can be mounted backwards (like the side that’s supposed to be facing the wheel actually mounted to face away from the wheel) and if so I wonder if that would have the effect that I’ve been experiencing.

as far as the rub goes, it’s a mild one and I can hear it lightly but when I took off the wheel I could see the spot on the wheel well lining where it’s rubbing. Also the reason I mentioned the front bumper harness is because I can see it resting on the wheel well lining through some vent lines or factory openings that are in the wheel well lining. All my sensors and lights work up front though.

next week I have an appointment to have a few things done so I’ll have to see what gets solved with those repairs.

 

i registered for an account on TOPIx but it wouldn’t accept my payment for an account as of right now. I’ll do some more research on this as it looks pretty interesting.

I checked out that website roverjagparts it’s pretty great. Parts diagrams galore.

 

Apart from normal coil springs instead of air, the front suspension is identical to the previous model (X350) that I had. Normally you would not expect the tyre to contact the wheel arch liner, and it never happened to me with the air springs. Have you checked for a broken coil spring ?

As for the clunking and banging, my experience of two X350s is that the suspension bushes on the lower arms front and rear are not long life components, especially the lower shock bushes. Commonest on the front is usually the "banana arm" trunnion bush and the lower shock bush. In addition, folks have reported anti-roll bar bushes failing but I never had that.
At the rear there are two ball-type joints, (not at all like steel ball joints, they're all plastic) that wear quite quickly to a state where they'll go a long time like that then finally need replacing. Unfortunately, unlike the front bushes, these are pressed into an aluminium casting, not a forging, so great care must be taken to avoid cracking of the casting. Most shops now won't take the risk and replace the whole lower arm. These now cost a lot less than they used to, so it is a toss-up on labour to swap-out bushes and the much quicker arm swap-out.

 

Are you clearing all codes every time you read them?
Maybe a few old ones still in there?

Yes I would do strut mounts next. Can you post a picture of the top of the strut in the engine compartment?
There is some foam that deteriorates and sometimes you can see that the strut is not centered in the mounting hole.

I can send you a shop manual but it's too big for E-mail and usually I have to upload it to some web site.
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.
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Just a thought on your rubbing tire and sagging issue...check to make sure that the height sensor is still properly attached or see if it may have been bent.

 

I had a few of the same problems, and I usually use an independent mechanic who specializes in Mercedes, But I trust him. I don't trust dealers.
That said, the car, with these same symptoms ended up at the dealership, and here in Tampa, FL they were AWESOME and Honest.

The codes you're getting are all a part of a small problem.

When I started getting the CEL, for the DTML pump, that had to be replaced. Its about a $500 fix. it is valid. do it.

The restricted performance mode is going to be intermittent, and it trips all the codes for the throttle body, Mass Airflow Sensors. I replaced both. The problem continued.
Went to the dealer and my mechanic was a great guy, a Mopar guy who reminded me of Kid Rock.

He says, "you're gonna be mad when u find out what it is"
I replied, "is it that bad?"

Long story short, it was the air filters!! dirty or not, they need to be replaced with Matching dat, OEM genuine air filters, and check all hoses connected to the Air tunnels.
Clear codes and you'll be fine. I'd put money on it. i had no vacuum leaks, the air filters not matching were giving conflicting readings to the Mass Airflow sensors and causing the issue.

Problem solved. You didn't waste money replacing the battery, but don't worry about the sensors or the throttle body it is the Air filters.

I joined the forum today just to share this, to prevent this problem for any of my fellow Jaguar enthusiasts.

 

I don't know ho to edit, and i hate typing but in summation, to be clear:

P240A Evaporative emission system leak detection pump heater - circuit open
P2105 Throttle actuator control system - forced engine shutdown
P061A Internal control module torque performance
P2135 throttle/pedal position sensor/switch A/B voltage correlation.

Will all be likely due to aftermarket or mismatched air filters. But ensure that all hoses connected to the air tunnels are secure.

the P240A EVAP System Leak Detection Pump Heater Control Circuit/Open issue is the DTML pump ( i may have the acronym wrong).

She will scream after these two are addressed.

 

Which dealership? Not many cities like Tampa have multiple Jaguar dealerships. I've been using Crown in St. Pete, initially because the original owner bought it from there, but they've been good with service so far.

 

Jaguar of Tampa

i was amazed at the experience and the honesty and the way they didn’t gouge me.

 

You're the second person to mention this to me about the air filters. I’m betting you’re right. EVAP code is going to get a new pump thrown at it.
thanks for your input it kind of makes me feel a little more at ease. Hopefully I can get this pump changed without a mechanic as the pump itself is only a hundred dollars. Nice looking xj!

 

Today my mechanic replaced the coils, strut mounts, and bearings. Originally we were thinking inner tie rods were bad but upon inspection while taking them apart we came to the conclusion that the tie rods were in good shape but the steering rack pinion (maybe that’s what it’s called?) “the thing that moves in and out of the steering rack with teeth on it” had a bunch of play. I guess there was a tensioner screw (large plastic facing rear) on the steering rack and my mechanic said I could tighten it a little so I did and actually I’m going to tighten it a little more tomorrow.

as of right now the car drives so much better. Bumps are no issue right now and clunking sounds have been almost entirely eliminated.

tomorrow new air filters will arrive and those will also go in their places hopefully eliminating my seldom mass airflow codes that put the car into restricted performance mode.

also, yesterday I ordered the fuel leak detection pump and today while the car was on the lift I dug around behind the gas tank and found the pump itself and the connector that plugs into it. I unplugged the connection and there was a bunch of green corroded gunk on the connector. I cleaned the connector pretty good and used dielectric grease on the connector pins. I connected the plug to the pump and slid the connector off and on a bunch of times to make sure the connector was making good contact. My fix didn’t help, but now I know where the pump is and how to get at the plug. Doesn’t seem like a fun replacement but I’m going to make the attempt to save on mechanic bills.

also, verified that the wheel sensors mounted on the rims are indeed the correct MHz (315) so I’m going to order the OEM sensors from rock auto.

on a side note: the rubbing sound I get when turning right at higher speeds has continued to exist and measurement from the floor to the top of the wheel well measures front left of the vehicle is lower then front right and right rear wheel well is sitting a little more than a half inch higher than left rear. Don’t know what to think about that other than maybe I need to calibrate rear suspension sensors or maybe it’s a mechanical adjustment could cure.

 

Any idea if there are sensors on the front wheels? I checked rears but hard for me to judge if they are set up proper, looked fine though. But I think you could be onto something. Measuring from ground to top of wheel well yields different measurements from right to left sides on front and rear. I could calibrate the rear air suspension but I believe it requires special jaguar measuring tools.

 

My mechanic charged $100 to install the DTML pump.
I don’t know your level of acumen but $100 is worth
eliminating headaches and getting to enjoy your Feline beast

 

Mine says 2.4 hrs for a total of $300 plus I have $110 into the pump. For $300 I’ll spend an hour doing it myself and even if it took 2 hours i would still see the savings worth it. I got pretty intimate with the pump yesterday just unplugging it and cleaning the contacts and I’m pretty confident I could change the pump out smoothly. It’s going to be nice to not have the check engine light though.