Hi guys, do you know if there are any differences between these 2 MY engines? A lot of the problems I have been reading in this forums seems to be mostly MY 2022. Any weakness from 2011 has been remedied in 2013? Thank you.

 

Not really. We did find that Jaguar updated the timing tensioners sometime in 2014 depending on your VIN.
I think the big weakness was Jaguars ridiculous oil change intervals of 15K miles or 1 year. Ditch that and go to 6-8K mile oil changes.

We have a forum member Bigg Will who changes his oil every 2K miles on his 2010 XFR with the 5.0L SC engine. He has yet to have ANY tensioner problems.
The car has well over 100K miles at this time.
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Yeah that's what I've been reading in regards to Oil change interval....15K is just crazy, I won't even go more than 4,500 since this is my weekend car anyways ....So you're saying both MY engines are exactly the same, is that correct?

 

Does the oil change interval matter? I change oil in all of my cars yearly, as none of them come close to mileage limits. Maybe 1-1.5k miles per year on each.

 

If you think 15k miles is ridiculous, my XE has a 2-year or 21k miles interval !! Needless to say, I am changing oil and filter at half this interval, and just had the oil and filter changed last week after about 10k miles which seems OK to me, my prevous two X350s were that, and I never had a problem. You guys in the US don't see diesels. Believe me the oil colour after only a few thousand miles is ridiculous; like ink !! However, I'm told this is normal and nothing to worry about. The XE is my first diesel BTW, and will probably be the last.

 

Don't forget that there were changes made to the water pump during the last few years. Granted, trying to keep up with all the variations and what each is can make your head spin. The big thing I find is that you need to be careful with all the small plastic tubing that has coolant running through it. This should probably be a 75K mile or something like that changeable part. I know when I changed my water pump, those broke super easy with just a litlte bit of force. It is my understanding that Jaguar replaces all that tubing whenever a car comes in for a water pump.

 

Except for about 6 different water pump versions. They all leaked.
When was yours replaced and did they use the latest part number?
That's not a big deal to me since I know about it but I would inspect the engine and see which one it is.

Also the plastic coolant tubes should have smooth seams and not big square shouldered seams.
Again these are on top of the engine so easy to spot.

But be sure and stop if the car over heats. That's the number one mistake most people make. They only drive to the next exit or they just could not pull over. Maybe that was true but with an all aluminum engine when it overheats it's a very short time until it's junk! The temperature gauge is only an indicator and not a gauge. I run Torque Pro app a lot to see the real coolant temperature.
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Thanks everyone, the reason I am asking is because I am buying a 2013 XJL Portfolio with a blown engine ... the seller had the car in the shop and already have the donor engine with 33k miles. So we came up with a list of what to install while the engine is out. The rear crossover pipe is one way them along with engine mount, radiator, water pump, rear main seal and etc.

 

What year is the donor engine. As while the internals are the same the electrics changed in 2013 from Denso to Bosch, If I'm nor mistaken

 

Don't think I would worry about the rear main seal. They don't leak that I have heard of?
Your smart to replace that rear water manifold as it also has the square shoulder seams and will leak.

If it's a SC 5.0L I would add the SC snout as they tend to knock with time.
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Rear main seal does leak. Mine does just enough to be wet around the area. It was that way when I bought the car still under CPO warranty and the dealer refused to do anything about it, claiming they couldn't find any leak.

 

It is from a 2011 ..what kind electronics are we talking about? stuff like coils ? or something deeper inside?

 

Do you have all the parts number on the plastic tubing that should be replaced? the new engine is still out so would be nice to replace everything needs replacing now.

 

A 2011 engine was in an XJ that had a harness for Denso engine management. So if your XJ is a 2013 onward it is wired for Bosch engine management and has Bosch electrics. You need to do a search in the forum as I remember a thread where someone else replaced a blown engine and ran into this situation and had to either move some items on the blown engine over to the new engine or replace them with new parts.

 

The cam phasers and the flywheel/flexplate will be different. So beyond engine wiring those will need to be changed over. The associated sensors might be different.

 

Ok thank you, I'll try to search the forum and find more info.

Would different cam phasers and flywheel means it'll drive different? or they won't fit together.

 

The holographic cam and crank sensor even is the same might not pick up the same signals if the mechanical reluctor points are different. One engine management looks for cam and crank position based on the mechanical part. The auto stop system is not just a bigger starter with a battery, it cues up the engine for a quick start the next time very accurate engine positioning. You should be able to swap them out. But I never tried it I am just theorizing. My 2013 engine has a totally different crank timing tool and caused me a headache trying to use the 2011 timing tool and the 2011 procedure diagrams. I had to get the 2013 procedure to match my parts to the diagrams.

Also timing chain pitch of 6.63 vs 8 will throw another wrench in the mix, albeit it seem all XJ had the 8mm pitch.

 

Hmm...the shop said they are aware of the changes between the 2 engines ... did you put a 2013 engine to 2011 car? or vice versa like I am doing?

I think at this point I'll leave it up to them to figure this out. I'll update this forum if something is wrong or success.

 

On my 2014 5.0L SC engine I have the latest water pump as #AJ813909.

The front plastic water manifold is #AJ813917. This has smooth seams and not the big square seams ones like this;
IF you have this version change it soon. They will ALL leak. It is a bad design.




The new stuff has smooth seams like this;



There is a second part on the front of the engine that also needs changed for the same reasons.
Jaguar #AJ813865.

The bad square seams.



The improved smooth seam version.





If you replace the rear water manifold the SC has to come off so more expense because of the gaskets needed.

But if your swapping engines that means the engine is out of the car so it would be the ideal time to change it because no need to remove the SC!!

Here is the list of parts for replacing the rear water manifold.
AJ814007 - Rear Water Manifold
C2Z28265 - Throttle Body Gasket
AJ811576 - RH Intake Gasket
AJ811590 - LH Intake Gasket
AJ811948 - SC Top Gasket. This is a big giant square metal gasket and is the most expensive at around $80.

The last thing is I would change the SC oil since the port is on the back of the SC and you can't get to it very well unless the SC is removed and turned upside down.
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No I am in the process of timing my 2013 engine but was using 2011 tools and diagrams and didn’t go so well. But if thee shop is liable for the swap let them figure it out as you said. Unless it was your direction to do it, they might put the blame on you and not rectify any issues that come along. At minimum open the cam covers and see if the VVT phasers are shaped the same, do the same for the crank. For the rest all the sensors should be checked for identical casting numbers, and cross referenced if they are different.

I would update the cooling system, SC coupler and timing chains guides and tensioners while the engine is out. That will assure you have the latest parts so you go trouble free for a bit.