Hi- this front lower control arm bushing has more rubber sticking out on one side. When installing the bushing, should the exposed rubber portion be inward on the spring side, or outside? I was careless removing the old bushings and didn’t take note of this one. It’s CBC2301

 

Good question to put on inline 6 X300 section as it would be the same , more viewing traffic

 

Good idea. Done

—- response there was extra rubber bit goes on outside

 

Slapped that subframe back on today. We’re in the home stretch! This got very expensive btw

 

what caused the spending?

 

OTC JD115 snapped like a twig

 

It ate my very long message! Damper Doctor was $479, a special washer was $45, lower fulcrums another $120, $50 radiator hose… just lots of stuff.

 

Scary how that otcjd115 snapped! How were your motor mounts?

 

Previous owner had the motor mounts done at the dealership hahaha. No wonder he sold it soon after. Not sure why he had motor mounts done when it needed literally every bushing replaced.

You made me, forced me, tricked me into adding up recent expenses. Surprised myself here... about $4500 in parts. Not as bad as the $12000 engine I put in an MG but still pretty ridiculous. But it will be smooth, quiet, fast, and under the radar.

Bottom end seals and gaskets, sandwich plate, etc 263.00
AC Drier 21.00
Shock bushes and bolts 97.00
Tires 353.00
Spark plugs, wires, injector seal kits 86.87
More injectore seals 24.00
Single fuel injector 50.24
shipping crank dampter 22.00
Crank damper repait 479.00
Lower fulcrum shafter 133.78
expansion tank and mis bits 569.25
bushing 42.00
vmount 82.00
ball join fitting 35.00
upper ball join 146.00
lower ball join 111.00
roll bar bushes 23.00
other suspension parts 474.00
upper wishbone bushes 217.00
lower fulcrum 85.00
lower shock bush 92.00
subframe bush 220.00
lower back fulcrom 59.00
front shocks 193.00
battery 183.00
belt 12.26
another belt 12.45
elbow for power steering hose 35.87
rear shocks 211.71
rustoleum 33.00
Center support bearing driveshaft 75.00
4,441.43

That's just what I wrote down. There was surely more.

 

Good feeling knowing it's all done though isn't it! Did you do your oil lines?
I'm probably close to that figure, I dare not add up. I'm painting the roof of my car and doing some clear coat touch up at rear and redoing headliner at the moment.AFF Silver Lining
Light Quartz 1913 Foam Backed Headliner Fabric
SL1913

is a perfect match for the light gray

 

Like you, still need to do paint and clearcoat fix up. Plus some wheel arch rust. I like bodywork, it’s fun. All of this is fun. It also gets cheaper in the winter when I can’t do as much work.

You list a ‘76 XJ6C… I have a 77 XJ6C someone gave me, with no engine. He converted the front end to Series I Daimler spec, with intention of putting in a V12 but gave up. I’ll mash it with a rusted out XJS I have. That’s going to make $4500 in XJ12 parts look like a pittance. Aren’t those the prettiest damn cars on earth? Had a 76 XJ12C, Signal Red, no vinyl top. Sold it in a fit of poverty 20+ years ago. Never again! Never selling anything again ever!

Post a photo of your coupe

 

250 bucks in a wrecking yard. My wheels and tires.

series III wings, new door

Got some wseries II wings from pick'n'npull this summer.

Series 1 xj6 rear door skin ready to go in but I'm getting the car up this winter sills off and beefing up/stiffening body, doing drains etc first.
. i have European front and rear bumpers, hinges etc
I originally bought my xj12 for the engine for this car but you know how that ended up...

Re xjs swap that is my plan, the 95, 96 year front and rear suspension and entire wiring loom. Still aiming for a 6.0 v12 and stick shift but doing bodywork while the original engine etc is in the car so the shell doesn't distort, They are very flimsy cars and yes very seductively pretty. No bad angles.

 

Wow you do not shy away from a challenge! I’d take one look at that door and go home.

It was sad to see the date on this photo… it’ll have been sitting in the barn untouched for four years

 

Reality is even if they have good paint they usually have to come apart for some serious metalwork. Great thing about California is usually virtually no rust, worst thing is UV trashed interiors....
Mine was out of a closed down wrecking yard. Someone had speared it with a forklift through the door and dented the rear area but the damage didn't get into the door jam. I love doing metal and bodywork...

 

Jagsandmgs ,

" Plus some wheel arch rust "

Ensure the sunroof drains are clear as this can be a source of WW arch rust

They will be in the corners of the sunroof as you roll it back

Like the looks of the 77 XJ6C and it's potential

Worked on that year's inline 6 and there was on this example issues of the very early Bosch single wire O2 sensor grounding through to the engine block and wiring correctness at the something per TSB had someone tinkering in the area getting lost

 

No sunroof in mine.
Useful links if you haven't seen them
https://www.myjaguarstory.com/my-jaguar-xjc-project.php
https://www.myjaguarstory.com/resour...%20Article.pdf
ICSAmerica on this forum is a great resource, he's done several of these xjcs with a stick shift 6.0, also with an aston martin motor.

He told me welding in a beefy cross brace horizontally in front of the rear seats really helps stiffen up the flimsy shell. I'll probably put outriders hooked into that under the sills too. He track days his cars, knows about flex and suspension issues

I'm hijacking your front suspension thread here!

 

Had not seen that website, very good information there. Will be a couple years before I touch mine. After the X305 is made usable, there is a ‘92 XJS 5.3 Coupe, then the XJ12C will be next. 5.3 with a tremec for sure, all the parts are here for it. I have two LHD sedan pedal boxes so the 87 XJ12 will probably go manual too.

Regarding the wheel arch rust… it can’t possibly be the sunroof drains, I don’t think they are even attached! When I bought the car the interior sunroof panel was sitting in the trunk…. And it is still there. Judging by how the rain goes directly into the passenger compartment I have to assume that tray has something to do with the sunroof drain? I should probably figure that out and reinstall it before I use the car much. If you have any advice please share it.

 

This is the long lost XJ12C I had in the early 2000s. Had a big steel electric sunroof. Caught on fire twice, and survived both times. I had no money and did terrible things to keep it going.

 

Assuming you are talking about rear wheel arch rust it will be the rear drains in the sills being blocked. They are much too small and the rust created destroys the rear jacking points.

 

Is this a normal ride height? I have yet to tighten the fulcrum shafts, and don’t want to until it has fully settled. I’m just surprised how higher it is without changing the springs.