Idle speed control valve testing and gasket
#1
Yesterday, 02:16 PM
Idle speed control valve testing and gasket
My ‘96 Daimler 2x6 has been off the road since february 2023. It started with a clean-up of the rh-side of the engine bay, then ran into a split core of the starter motor and all kinds of other NLA parts that needed replacement. After completion engine had a misfire on rh bank so all fuel injectors were sent out to be ultrasonically cleaned and all ignition leads were renewed. Inlet manifolds came off and were cleaned as well.
In a different post I informed about the green gaskets in the fuel rail which seemed to be NLA so that took time to investigate. After putting it all together again I filled up the cooling system and ran the engine for a minute or two and everything seemed fine. The next morning though there was blue coolant under the car. It turned out to be the connecting tubes of the idle speed control valves, both left and right.
The blue indicator dye is clearly visible.
The connecting tube was also corroded of course so I got a stainless steel tube 19mm and cut it to size 6cm. The rubber sealing bushes, #3 in the parts picture, were readily available as were the gaskets (#16). In the description it says you will need 2 for each side but there are 3 to be replaced. So order 6.
When putting it back in place make sure that the distance between the two coolant jackets of the front part and the rear part are 11cm apart for the rh bank and 10,5cm for the lh bank. The connecting tube does not go all the way into the idle speed control valve so when you adjust it just before bolting it down you might push the tube in too far on one end and not enough on the other end. I marked the spot where the tube meets the bushing so after installment the mark will tell you wether it has moved in or out or stayed in place.
The gasket of the idle air control valve is also NLA.(#13 NNA5207aa). That is why I do not dare to take the control valve apart. Any suggestions on alternatives for this gasket?
Also I would like to test if it is still doing its job. Does anyone know how to test this control valve. The connector has 3 pins.
Thanks for your help.
Olav
In a different post I informed about the green gaskets in the fuel rail which seemed to be NLA so that took time to investigate. After putting it all together again I filled up the cooling system and ran the engine for a minute or two and everything seemed fine. The next morning though there was blue coolant under the car. It turned out to be the connecting tubes of the idle speed control valves, both left and right.
The blue indicator dye is clearly visible.
The connecting tube was also corroded of course so I got a stainless steel tube 19mm and cut it to size 6cm. The rubber sealing bushes, #3 in the parts picture, were readily available as were the gaskets (#16). In the description it says you will need 2 for each side but there are 3 to be replaced. So order 6.
When putting it back in place make sure that the distance between the two coolant jackets of the front part and the rear part are 11cm apart for the rh bank and 10,5cm for the lh bank. The connecting tube does not go all the way into the idle speed control valve so when you adjust it just before bolting it down you might push the tube in too far on one end and not enough on the other end. I marked the spot where the tube meets the bushing so after installment the mark will tell you wether it has moved in or out or stayed in place.
The gasket of the idle air control valve is also NLA.(#13 NNA5207aa). That is why I do not dare to take the control valve apart. Any suggestions on alternatives for this gasket?
Also I would like to test if it is still doing its job. Does anyone know how to test this control valve. The connector has 3 pins.
Thanks for your help.
Olav
Last edited by Olav; Yesterday at 02:23 PM.
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