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So it seems from my searches that the motor mounts for the 6.0 are unique and pricey.
Anyone have any insight into this ? Can the old style mount be adapted or is there a work around ? Maybe parts catalogs are incorrect. I have a 96 xj12.
I don't think so. Those are totally different and only rubber, not hydraulic.
Not to mention... Uro parts?? I wouldn't want my V12 on those rubbers. The Uro upper shock mounts are hard as a rock, and their sway bar bushings are like jello. I bought them but didn't use either on my car.
On the other hand, it is nice that they make some radiator hoses. The aftermarket is very thin. But again, we are aware that the durability is about half the originals.
I managed to use 71-74 xke v12 mounts. The mounting holes are a little closer together, and for securing it to the subframe, figure it out yourself but if you want to hear what my better idea is then I'll share.
So I was hoping my engine mounts would be reusable after dropping my sub frame for bushing replacement, but they were not. They are squashed and in pieces. No motor mount symptoms that I noticed, but I can't put the car back together with these. I decided to find a suitable replacement. I looked at the 71-74 xke mounts as suggested above, but they are simple rubber mounts and I really wanted a quality mount to hold my engine. Looking at other V12 engines of similar year models, it looked like the SL600 Mercedes mount might work. So I ordered two of them up at 150 dollars each. These are high quality hydraulic factory mounts. But once they arrived it was obvious they were way too big and just no good way to get them secured up in the engine bracket hole. Its a real shame as they looked like the same construction and maybe even same manufacture as the Jaguar ones.
Next I returned them and searching around on ebay and google images, I decided to try a Ford Mustang from 2007-2019. They looked a bit smaller and adaptable for this application. I got the one for the 5.4L V8 GT550 as it was the biggest and heaviest engine with the right design I could find. They were similarly priced at 160 dollars each and also very nice quality hydraulic mount. When they arrived it appeared they would work but still require some slight modification to the car, which I wasn't too keen on. I would have to slightly widen the large engine bracket hole and re-drill new holes on the mount, then build some sort of heat shield as the factory one wasn't going to mount to the rubber top of these mounts. Also they are a bit too short in height, but I could cut the tip off of the old ones and slide it over the bottom bolt screw of the new mount, which would give me the proper height (was adding about 1/2 of an inch due to the compression of the old jag mount I have) and also would also give a good connection to the centering "nipples" that stick up from the sub-frame connection. It was going to be a lot of work and I really did not want to modify the car. So I was going to try the mustang 5.0L mounts when I finally got an email back from jaguar classic in england, who gave me a contact for some new mounts for 550 dollars each. Still way over priced but after thinking about it for a few days, I decided to do this the right way and spend the $$(just don't tell my wife) instead of grinding and cutting around on my car. Tom at Myton automotive gets them directly from the factory for about 1100 dollars a pair shipped to the usa. He can be contacted at support@mytonautomotive.com if you decide to go this way. A real nice guy who quickly responds to questions and even gave me a bit of a discount since I was buying two.
Hopefully this helps and if anyone wants to pick up where I left off I'd try the 5.0L Mustang mounts. We really need a better solution than overpaying for these mounts and I'm sorry I wasn't able to find one.
THERE IS NOTHING MORE EXPENSIVE THAN A CHEAP JAGUAR!!
This is how they came out:
This is a comparison between the 5.4L Mustang mount and my worn out OEM Jag mount.
Does anyone know where I can find another plug like this for the motor mount holes? I'm missing one.
Last edited by John Baker; 09-25-2021 at 08:22 AM.
A big job and looks like you have the subframe out of the car as I did several years ago when I replaced all the bushings and mounts apart from the engine mounts. A job for me coming up, I bit the bullet and bought new mounts some time ago.
I was curious about the rubber plug so I went and had a look under my car and there aren't any plugs and they also don't appear in the parts catalogue I have and I also can't see what purpose they would serve. Curious. Does your plug have a part number on it?
No, don't see a part number on this plug. Your right I don't see it listed in my part manuals either. It sure looks factory and fits the hole perfectly but I guess its not suppose to go in there? I just assumed it was to keep debris out of there but yeah, in that case it would make more sense if it was a solid plug.
I managed to use 71-74 xke v12 mounts. The mounting holes are a little closer together, and for securing it to the subframe, figure it out yourself but if you want to hear what my better idea is then I'll share.
Could you clarify how you attached them to the subframe? I'm just curious to see if these are a worthwhile solution with minimal modification.
I subscribe to ALLDATA and I had a look the Engine Mount info and in the instructions there is mention of the phantom rubber plug and it also appears in the sectional pic of the mount though it doesn't look much like the one you found in your car.
Cheers,
Jeff.
Instructions.
Remove fan cowl retaining clips and reposition fan cowl to provide clearance for engine elevation.
Install engine support service tool No. MS53C, or equivalent, across engine. Connect support hook to engine lifting eye.
Release lower hydra-mount retaining screw from below. Screw will remain in front crossmember, retained by a nylon collar, Fig.4 .
Support weight of engine by tightening support hook locknut.
When removing the right mount, remove PAS hose securing bracket from engine pan and retain hose to one side for access.
Remove hydra-mount to bracket retaining nuts. Remove mount from bracket studs.
Reverse procedure to install. Tighten to specifications.
Hey thanks Jeff! Yes that looks similar but not exactly what came out of mine. And mine is all nylon no rubber on it. I wish I had a part number for it so I could track down the other side that has fallen out. So according to that it seems it was there to retain the screw from falling out. Which is exactly what it did when I loosened the screw but couldn't figure out why it wasn't dropping out like the other side until I got the crossmember off the car and took a good look up in the hole to find this nylon retainer.
Last edited by John Baker; 12-11-2021 at 10:20 AM.
I had a front end knock when driving over rough surfaces which was getting progressively worse so I renewed the front suspension bushes and shock rubbers but to no avail.
So after reading the forum thread on engine mounts I decided to check mine and they had both settled quite a bit and that was the source of the knocking.
There didn’t appear to be any sort of aftermarket replacement mounts so I bit the bullet and bought a couple of genuine mounts, at great expense, from Jaguar Classic Spares. I figured that if the original mounts lasted for around 350,000 kms then a new set would likely see me out.
Firstly I removed the engine mount bottom bolts as the beam mentioned later would cover the access holes when the car was raised and supported. The bolts are a Torx bolt and T50 tool fits perfectly.
I needed to support the car so I could take the front wheels off but I didn’t want to support the car by the body jacking points for too long and risk damaging the front sub-frame mounts so I got a 50mm thick plank 550mm long and jacked the front of the car up under the front sub-frame until both wheels were free of the ground. Then supported the ends of the beam on several layers of the same sized wooden plank. I also peeled back the wheel well liners for access but really didn’t need to.
Once the car was up on blocks then the engine needed to be lifted quite a bit to be able to remove the old mounts. First up remove the radiator shroud securing clips so the fan doesn’t interfere with it as the engine is raised.
Previously when I needed to support the engine I had used a sturdy wooden beam and a couple of pieces of threaded rod and D shackles and I was going to do the same but happened across a purpose built engine lift bar, in a local auto supply outlet, at a price comparable to making one so I bought it instead.
Lifting the engine was quite straight forward, I did a little each side until I thought I had it high enough then raised it some more, about 50mm/2 inches in all. There was no interference from the rear of the engine with the firewall.
The engine mount heat shields need to be removed first and this can be done from on top with an 8mm socket with the air duct between the air cleaner and the manifold removed.
The front engine mount nuts can be removed from in front of the subframe using a 13mm socket, ratchet, a uni joint and suitable socket extension bars.
The rear nuts I could access by passing the socket and bar up between the steering rack and the subframe. I also removed the RH steering rack heat shield so I could see what I was doing.
I used 3/8” drive socket fittings, maybe with ½”drive there would not be enough clearance between the steering rack and the subframe to access the rear nuts.
My car is RHD so I thought that the some of the power steering plumbing would need to be removed in order to remove the RH mount but all I needed to do was remove the securing screw near the pressure switch and ease the pipes out of the way.
Re-assembly is the reverse so they say and it pretty much was. I put some copper grease on all the threads and put the whole lot together then lowered the engine back on to the support spigots on the subframe. I then jacked the car up a little and removed all the wooden support blocks so I could replace the bottom mount bolts.
With the wheels back on and after a final check it was time for a test drive and things definitely felt and sounded smoother but I think I can hear a noise coming from the rear end now!
The old mounts had settled around 12mm/ 1/2” but hadn’t actually come apart. No evidence of any sort of hydraulic fluid as both old mounts were as dry as a bone.
Here's a picture of very similar engine support bar I have on loan from a friend - it's a US Harborfreight version, at full extension the feet fit perfectly in the front fender/wing channels.
I made a couple of hooks to attach to the two engine hooks, got the threaded rod, connecting bolts and hooks at US Home Depot, had to cut them to go through the eye of the hooks
I'm about to drop subframe, got one side suspension off, doing the other side later this week.
V joints are hard to source right now but I finally got some.
I'm stressing about what I'll find when I see the engine mounts - I've been contemplating making a plaster mould and making some urethane ones if they are not reusable.
i have powerflex urethane bushings for the front suspension, bilsteins etc, I have to replace the power steering hoses and the oil cooler lines while the subframe is out, also doing the big sump gasket and no doubt I'll find more issues while I'm under there!
G'day Oliver,
Here are some pix of one of my engine mounts which I cut in two. As I said in an earlier post there is absolutely no evidence of any oil or other fluid having ever been inside it though after sitting next to that V12 for the last 350,000kms I reckon any fluid would have boiled away by now.
In the first pic the bit resting on the cold chisel virtually fell away from the body by pulling on it.
In the second pic yu can see the basic construction of it.
In the third pic the bit with the cut marks accross the top appears to be some sort of restricting valve similar to a shock absorber in function.
Maybe you could fill your old mounts with the liquid urethane and make a solid mount which essentially is what it is with no fluid in it.
I did a metal bashing workshop end of last year and Jason Len who used to own xksunlimited was there, we were talking about these mounts (I asked him if he knew where to get them: no) and he was saying why did Jag bother with these hydraulic mounts for such a smooth running engine, given the 5.3 ones are such simple rubber biscuits...I'm sure there's a reason though buried in the xj40 redesign...
Based on how knackered my lower balljoint was I don't have a good feeling about the state of my mounts...I'll be finding out soon...
I have been reading about hydraulic motor mounts and have discovered that the 'hydraulic fluid' used in them is a mixture of glycol and water so it is no wonder that if/when they leak that the fluid evaporates away without a trace.
I wonder why water is used instead of an oil?
You can also click on this site and scroll down with more information https://www.suspension.com/diymmi. You can add the metal Primer and adhesive to the order.
Good news for me, my motor mounts came out reusable albeit a bit squashed. I may put a washer or two between the subframe and mount when reassembling to compensation. Interestingly my mounts have two threaded recesses in the top and are attached by two tiny bolts, unlike all the other ones I've seen with two threaded posts on top.
Here's a picture of my engine support for reference
The lumps of polystyrene on top of the threaded rods are in case the hood decided to drop. I should really have some kind of support from the firewall to top of hood to stop it moving.
I used two jacks on the south ends of the subframe and a tranny jack under the subframe crossbeam to remove it slowly. I have a little bottle jack on one of my jenga block wheel height raisers in front lightly just touching under the harmonic balancer, a harborfreight crossbeam and the two hooks I posted in the previous post here to suspend the engine from
Last edited by olivermarks; 02-09-2022 at 11:29 AM.
10-25-2020, 06:46 PM
