Motor Mounts ?
#21
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Twin Waters, Sunshine Coast, QLD. Australia.
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G’day Oliver,
Looks like your work is progressing well. Good news about your mounts being reusable. From the look of the one in the pic it looks different to the ones in my car. There is a part number change partway through the production, it would be interesting to see what the difference is.
Cheers,
Jeff.
Looks like your work is progressing well. Good news about your mounts being reusable. From the look of the one in the pic it looks different to the ones in my car. There is a part number change partway through the production, it would be interesting to see what the difference is.
Cheers,
Jeff.
#22
#23
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G’day Oliver,
Your mounts look a lot different to the ones in my car. What appears to be a cast alloy top piece with the heat shield secured with a couple of bolts instead of nuts and from underneath my mounts don’t have those deep recesses that yours do.
Maybe you car was built after the part number changeover and maybe they are no longer hydraulic.
Cheers,
Jeff.
Your mounts look a lot different to the ones in my car. What appears to be a cast alloy top piece with the heat shield secured with a couple of bolts instead of nuts and from underneath my mounts don’t have those deep recesses that yours do.
Maybe you car was built after the part number changeover and maybe they are no longer hydraulic.
Cheers,
Jeff.
#24
#25
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G’day Oliver,
Looking at the Jaguar Classic parts website there is a listing of motor mounts MMD7500AA up to VIN 777506 and MNA7500AA subsequently. There is a huge price difference between the two. The first is listed at around $911 USD with one supplier and the latter at around $248 USD with a different supplier. Both part no’s are pretty scarce. The huge price difference leads me to believe that the cheaper mount is not a hydraulic mount but of a much simpler compliant rubber construction and therefore couldn’t possible leak and settle as much as the earlier mount.
My new mounts, of the earlier type, had no part numbers or any other ident marks on them.
Cheers,
Jeff.
Looking at the Jaguar Classic parts website there is a listing of motor mounts MMD7500AA up to VIN 777506 and MNA7500AA subsequently. There is a huge price difference between the two. The first is listed at around $911 USD with one supplier and the latter at around $248 USD with a different supplier. Both part no’s are pretty scarce. The huge price difference leads me to believe that the cheaper mount is not a hydraulic mount but of a much simpler compliant rubber construction and therefore couldn’t possible leak and settle as much as the earlier mount.
My new mounts, of the earlier type, had no part numbers or any other ident marks on them.
Cheers,
Jeff.
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#26
My car's vin last few is tc778398 so it must be a later one, does anyone know the last xj12 vin?
When I search on MNA7500AA in the US I'm getting this uro mount
https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/188...-APAMNC7500AB/
for 63 bucks. It's structurally similar except no ears to screw to engine, plus it's got an outie instead of an innie down below, assuming it's deep enough to get nut on throught subframe tunnel...can't see the top of it but for that price on an iffy car I'd hack the old motor mounts or fab something up with these!
Theres a guy selling a 6.0 v12 engine on ebay at the moment, he fabbed these mounts which would be good in a racecar. the ears could be fabbed like this
When I search on MNA7500AA in the US I'm getting this uro mount
https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/188...-APAMNC7500AB/
for 63 bucks. It's structurally similar except no ears to screw to engine, plus it's got an outie instead of an innie down below, assuming it's deep enough to get nut on throught subframe tunnel...can't see the top of it but for that price on an iffy car I'd hack the old motor mounts or fab something up with these!
Theres a guy selling a 6.0 v12 engine on ebay at the moment, he fabbed these mounts which would be good in a racecar. the ears could be fabbed like this
#27
Wow interesting mounts you have Oliver. Yes you got lucky those look very resuable. Did your cross member have any spacers on the top? Mine had one on one side for alignment purposes. I left it off thinking now that I changed everything it wouldnt be needed. Well its become apparent I've gotta drop it again and add the spacer maybe it was installed at the factory? Car has a slight pull and can't be aligned any further using the normal way. There is a service bulletin I found on this. So anyone doing this job get that spacer back in there on the same side.
#28
I didn't see any spacers when it came out, I'll have to have a good hunt around on the ground to see if anything fell out, I wouldn't know which side it fell out from though...I was wondering if there was a way to check alignment while putting everything back but seems unlikely. Yeah weird the motor mounts, wasn't expecting that at all!
#29
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olivermarks (02-13-2022)
#30
It was on top of the Vee Mount. Really kicking myself for not putting it back in its place but getting tired of the pulling at interstate speeds
#31
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G’day John,
If you were really keen you could probably undo the top V mount bolts and drop the subframe enough to replace the spacer without taking the whole front end apart.
Maybe you could open up the holes in the shim and make them into slots.
My car is very sensitive to road camber and pulls towards the down side but if I find a deserted road and drive right down the centreline it doesn’t pull at all and if I drive on the ‘wrong’ side of the road it pulls the other way which is still towards the down side.
Cheers,
Jeff.
If you were really keen you could probably undo the top V mount bolts and drop the subframe enough to replace the spacer without taking the whole front end apart.
Maybe you could open up the holes in the shim and make them into slots.
My car is very sensitive to road camber and pulls towards the down side but if I find a deserted road and drive right down the centreline it doesn’t pull at all and if I drive on the ‘wrong’ side of the road it pulls the other way which is still towards the down side.
Cheers,
Jeff.
Last edited by watto700; 02-13-2022 at 11:57 PM.
#32
I've got a shim on the passenger side (US) I never noticed. I took those old V mounts off after this photo, now I know to put the shim on the new one
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#33
Would it seem that the later ones are interchangeable for the earlier cars? Just a different construction but same mounting points upper and lower?
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1 of 19 (02-17-2022)
#34
G’day John,
If you were really keen you could probably undo the top V mount bolts and drop the subframe enough to replace the spacer without taking the whole front end apart.
Maybe you could open up the holes in the shim and make them into slots.
My car is very sensitive to road camber and pulls towards the down side but if I find a deserted road and drive right down the centreline it doesn’t pull at all and if I drive on the ‘wrong’ side of the road it pulls the other way which is still towards the down side.
Cheers,
Jeff.
If you were really keen you could probably undo the top V mount bolts and drop the subframe enough to replace the spacer without taking the whole front end apart.
Maybe you could open up the holes in the shim and make them into slots.
My car is very sensitive to road camber and pulls towards the down side but if I find a deserted road and drive right down the centreline it doesn’t pull at all and if I drive on the ‘wrong’ side of the road it pulls the other way which is still towards the down side.
Cheers,
Jeff.
Thanks again!
John
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watto700 (02-16-2022)
#35
I'm really glad this came up, proves the value of photographing everything. I never noticed the shim on my subframe until this came up on here.
I've got a shim on the passenger side (US) I never noticed. I took those old V mounts off after this photo, now I know to put the shim on the new one
I've got a shim on the passenger side (US) I never noticed. I took those old V mounts off after this photo, now I know to put the shim on the new one
#36
maybe it's a road camber thing, wondering if it's on the other side on rhd cars?
Pricey alignment! As an FYI for Californians Wheel Works charges 200 bucks for an alignment every six months for the life of the car, good deal when you're futzing with getting the car fettled.
Currently hacksawing out the metal shells of bushings and pressing in the new ones
Pricey alignment! As an FYI for Californians Wheel Works charges 200 bucks for an alignment every six months for the life of the car, good deal when you're futzing with getting the car fettled.
Currently hacksawing out the metal shells of bushings and pressing in the new ones
#37
Oliver, you sure you need to hacksaw anything out? I just used my press to remove them all. Some were really tight but eventually they all let go. I did have to take some measurements for the right diameter pushing mechanism and go to the local northern tools and find something like a socket with the exact outer size diameter so that it would fit perfectly around the outside of the bushing but not interfere with the hole on the crossmember.
#38
Join Date: Oct 2013
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G'day Gents,
Looking over the Jaguar instructions to fix steering pull I thought I might give the shim idea a trial so would it be possible for one of you to scan a shim and email the image to me and I'll make a couple up, with slotted holes, and see if that improves things.
Cheers,
Jeff.
Looking over the Jaguar instructions to fix steering pull I thought I might give the shim idea a trial so would it be possible for one of you to scan a shim and email the image to me and I'll make a couple up, with slotted holes, and see if that improves things.
Cheers,
Jeff.
#40
It was a mixed bag, some came out really easily, some collapsed and went squirrelly, some rust on the passenger side lower and a couple the press operator (me) mushroomed so they had to be cut out. Some seriously sketchy bushing wear, glad I finally got round to this.
Just got the smiley faces to go now....
Just got the smiley faces to go now....
Oliver, you sure you need to hacksaw anything out? I just used my press to remove them all. Some were really tight but eventually they all let go. I did have to take some measurements for the right diameter pushing mechanism and go to the local northern tools and find something like a socket with the exact outer size diameter so that it would fit perfectly around the outside of the bushing but not interfere with the hole on the crossmember.
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