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hope it's not the heater core! I'd check all the hoses first - there's a weirdly complicated spaghetti hose Jag partMNA6724FB (number 2 below) that I've heard can cause issues, gets twisted/pinched, bunged up etc.
(NB for US readers rockauto have uro version on close out for 14 bucks).
Hopefully it's just an electrical issue...
I just changed out #2 as mine had a pinhole leak. Sadly no longer available from Jaguar, but there is a URO version and the quality seems alright. It's not nearly as hard to remove as it looks, just take your time, remove the throttle intake pipe, and make sure you drain about a gallon or two out of the system before you remove it.
Also as an FYI, that does not appear to be a LWB as your rear door looks shorter than your front. Personally, I think thats way cooler! Cant be too many SWB DD6s out there...
Thank you for the advice, hopefully I can fix the fault now. Also good spot it is a Daimler double six SWB, which is a good thing as it fits in the garage with Rusty my x300.
Congratulations Stu! You now have two similar but quite contrasting vehicles in all regards! It is good to see Rusty again and doing well. When I had a six and a twelve they were both original and both red. A little boring you'd think, but not. Each has its own personality. I think Rusty will be just fine to make a little room for the sexy sweetness of the Double Six. He doesn't mind the close quarters I'm sure. "Rusty and the Dame".....a love story.
Is that a spare tire and two jerry cans protruding from Rusty's bootlid? Automotive gold, especially in a Jaguar. You might need to add that to the DD6 for those long journeys.
Isn't it ironic that with all the heat the V12 will generate, you can't get any into the cabin.
Been thinking about my lack of heating. My plan tomorrow is to check electric pump is pumping. Assuming it is I will use 12v supply and some temporary piping to pump rad cleaning solution around heater matrix. Any thoughts on this ?
I haven't done it but my understanding is it's best to back flush the heater core by shoving a water mains connected hose in and letting it drain to the ground for a few minutes....
So disconnect existing plumbing...
That’s sort of what I planned, disconnect from existing plumbing and make a closed loop between pump and matrix. So using pump circulate rad cleaning solution around the matrix, before flushing with fresh coolant. Assuming pump works from a separate 12v feed ? Find out tomorrow?
Obviously not full mains pressure water backflush, then leave rad cleaner soaking the core overnight seems to be popular idea....I dunno about using the pump - anything that is bunging up the core is going to get stuck in the pump too...I'd wait to use the pump until after you've back flushed the core thoroughly and it's running clean
This is a post that I made years ago, on a different forum, when I had heater prolems.
G'day Gents,
After suffering the occasional chills of winter last year I decided to fix my heater problem, very little hot air.
I disconnected the inlet and outlet lines to my heater core and tried flushing it out with a garden hose, no joy, very little flow
in either direction. I tried filling the heater core with vinegar, as some have suggested, to dissolve the scale build up but that
made only a marginal difference. Maybe a longer soaking would have been more effective.
So I ordered a replacement heater core.
Yesterday I decided to do the necessary work and while I was draining the coolant system I removed the electric coolant pump and
took it apart and cleaned it out.
My car is a RHD vehicle so most of this won’t be applicable to LHD cars. I removed the glovebox and surrounding trim, which gives good
access to the LHS of the climate control unit and the heater core. It was obvious that the LHS (passenger side in this car) airbag
would have to be removed to extract the heater core. I read up in the ROM the procedure and disconnected the battery negative
terminal for around 30 minutes before I unplugged the airbag module and started to remove the wooden trim panel, the airbag module and
the supporting strucure. It took around 30 minutes max to remove all this stuff and gave excellent access to the heater core.
There is a small clamp on each of the coolant lines to the core and a single small plate retainer for heater core it self. It was
relatively straight forward to undo all this and remove the clogged core.
Replacement is the reverse of the above as they say. Well it was a bit fiddly fitting the clamps but the rest was easy.
I refitted the electric pump and tightened up all the hose clamps, topped up the coolant and started the engine. No leaks evident so
time for a drive. Great blasts of of scorching hot air issued from the heater ducts. Great! All I have to do now is wait six months
for it to get cold again.
I guess as a preventative measure it would pay to use the heater from time to time to get the fluid flowing and possibly stop scale from
building up.
I have the old core filled with vinegar and will leave it for a few days and see whether the scale really does dissolve. I’ll let you
know.
The vinegar had no effect so I filled the heater core with Kettle Cleaner and heated the end tank with a heat gun until it boiled and you should have seen all the crap that came out of it. It now flows the same as a new one. I kept it as a spare.
Thanks - very useful! I wonder if hooking up an exterior water pump and watertight connections to the heater core in situ, then circulating boiling water & kettle cleaner would work to clean it out based on this? A friend of mine used a heat gun on the water in a copper tube section to keep it hot as it flowed through on a different vehicle...
Originally Posted by watto700
G'day Stu,
This is a post that I made years ago, on a different forum, when I had heater prolems.
G'day Gents,
After suffering the occasional chills of winter last year I decided to fix my heater problem, very little hot air.
I disconnected the inlet and outlet lines to my heater core and tried flushing it out with a garden hose, no joy, very little flow
in either direction. I tried filling the heater core with vinegar, as some have suggested, to dissolve the scale build up but that
made only a marginal difference. Maybe a longer soaking would have been more effective.
So I ordered a replacement heater core.
Yesterday I decided to do the necessary work and while I was draining the coolant system I removed the electric coolant pump and
took it apart and cleaned it out.
My car is a RHD vehicle so most of this won’t be applicable to LHD cars. I removed the glovebox and surrounding trim, which gives good
access to the LHS of the climate control unit and the heater core. It was obvious that the LHS (passenger side in this car) airbag
would have to be removed to extract the heater core. I read up in the ROM the procedure and disconnected the battery negative
terminal for around 30 minutes before I unplugged the airbag module and started to remove the wooden trim panel, the airbag module and
the supporting strucure. It took around 30 minutes max to remove all this stuff and gave excellent access to the heater core.
There is a small clamp on each of the coolant lines to the core and a single small plate retainer for heater core it self. It was
relatively straight forward to undo all this and remove the clogged core.
Replacement is the reverse of the above as they say. Well it was a bit fiddly fitting the clamps but the rest was easy.
I refitted the electric pump and tightened up all the hose clamps, topped up the coolant and started the engine. No leaks evident so
time for a drive. Great blasts of of scorching hot air issued from the heater ducts. Great! All I have to do now is wait six months
for it to get cold again.
I guess as a preventative measure it would pay to use the heater from time to time to get the fluid flowing and possibly stop scale from
building up.
I have the old core filled with vinegar and will leave it for a few days and see whether the scale really does dissolve. I’ll let you
know.
The vinegar had no effect so I filled the heater core with Kettle Cleaner and heated the end tank with a heat gun until it boiled and you should have seen all the crap that came out of it. It now flows the same as a new one. I kept it as a spare.
Got good flow through heater, I can feel the electric valve opening and closing but my aux heat pump must be seized as it blows it’s fuse and won’t run even if connected straight to a battery. Fingers crossed a new pump sorts my lack of heat problem ?
Well the good news is that at least you won't have to replace the heater core.
The coolant pumps are really quite simple and easy to pull apart and clean out. The impeller is driven by a magnetic coupler and is separate to the motor though a common problem is worn out brushes and some have found a similar sized brush and filed them down to fit.
I didn't need new brushes as it was the impeller which was clogged.
Couldn’t get heat pump apart, second hand one from eBay sorted it.
For anyone else struggling I worked out you can feel heater valve opening and closing every 5 or so seconds but not if you select max heat as that just holds valve open. Removing the plug to heat valve opens it so you should get heat all the time. Heater pump can be spinning but not pumping. You can just feel it spinning. I connected mine direct to 12v feed and it fried it, perhaps it was already faulty?
thank you for all your help, onto next problem….
05-24-2022, 03:01 PM
