04 xj8 driver window works intermittently
#1
04 xj8 driver window works intermittently
Good day,
All windows on the car work fine but this one, been this way since I bought it a week ago. You have to continually press the switch to get the window to move an inch or so up or down holding the switch the window will stop after a couple of inches, sometimes pressing the switch, the window will not respond at all.
I tried a used driver window switch pack to swap in, did not resolve.
2 thoughts:
-The replacement switch I got is junk as well in the same way (unlikely)
-There is a wire behind the driver door panel that is frayed?
Anyone have experience with this? I don't want to take the door panel off if it could be something else.
I found a how-to on how to remove the switches individually - mine do not feel loose and this error was on both master switches I have.
These threads are starting to confirm I have a harness break somewhere:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...switch-154825/
Thank you!!
All windows on the car work fine but this one, been this way since I bought it a week ago. You have to continually press the switch to get the window to move an inch or so up or down holding the switch the window will stop after a couple of inches, sometimes pressing the switch, the window will not respond at all.
I tried a used driver window switch pack to swap in, did not resolve.
2 thoughts:
-The replacement switch I got is junk as well in the same way (unlikely)
-There is a wire behind the driver door panel that is frayed?
Anyone have experience with this? I don't want to take the door panel off if it could be something else.
I found a how-to on how to remove the switches individually - mine do not feel loose and this error was on both master switches I have.
These threads are starting to confirm I have a harness break somewhere:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...switch-154825/
Thank you!!
Last edited by megacattin; 01-25-2019 at 10:36 AM.
#2
I have this problem with the passenger door on mine and I don't think it's to do with the switch pack as the problem remains the same whether you use the driver's doors switch or the switch on the passenger door.
I think the problem is in the motor control board that is part of the motor assembly in the window regulator. It seems to me that the motor control system is somehow wrongly sensing a current overload (which it interprets as a jammed or obstructed window) and it shuts the system down for some seconds. I suspect there may be a problem with one of the switching relays on the control PCB. However, taking one apart looks to be a right PITA as there is a load of de-soldering needed before you can the PCB out.
I think the problem is in the motor control board that is part of the motor assembly in the window regulator. It seems to me that the motor control system is somehow wrongly sensing a current overload (which it interprets as a jammed or obstructed window) and it shuts the system down for some seconds. I suspect there may be a problem with one of the switching relays on the control PCB. However, taking one apart looks to be a right PITA as there is a load of de-soldering needed before you can the PCB out.
#3
I have this problem with the passenger door on mine and I don't think it's to do with the switch pack as the problem remains the same whether you use the driver's doors switch or the switch on the passenger door.
I think the problem is in the motor control board that is part of the motor assembly in the window regulator. It seems to me that the motor control system is somehow wrongly sensing a current overload (which it interprets as a jammed or obstructed window) and it shuts the system down for some seconds. I suspect there may be a problem with one of the switching relays on the control PCB. However, taking one apart looks to be a right PITA as there is a load of de-soldering needed before you can the PCB out.
I think the problem is in the motor control board that is part of the motor assembly in the window regulator. It seems to me that the motor control system is somehow wrongly sensing a current overload (which it interprets as a jammed or obstructed window) and it shuts the system down for some seconds. I suspect there may be a problem with one of the switching relays on the control PCB. However, taking one apart looks to be a right PITA as there is a load of de-soldering needed before you can the PCB out.
If so I'll give it a try!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-JAGUAR-XJ8-4-2L-4-REAR-LEFT-DRIVER-SIDE-WINDOW-REGULATOR-MOTOR/222622379758?epid=1411217162&hash=item33d553eeee:g :WXUAAOSwJclZnif8:rk:2f:0
Thanks!
Last edited by megacattin; 01-25-2019 at 02:30 PM.
#5
I ordered the entire regulator with cable setup for 35 shipped - just in case I booger something up while in there- ha ha ha.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/233040904621
Thanks again! I'll keep you posted.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/233040904621
Thanks again! I'll keep you posted.
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Partick the Cat (01-25-2019)
#7
I think I can recall somone posting that they'd found that a rear one worked fine in the front ( or v.v.)
There is a cylindrical magnet on the shaft of the motor and small Hall probes (on the PCB) alongside that presumably count turns so that the control chip knows where the window is. I imagine that the reset procedure (after a battery disconnect) is a calibration procedure so that the chip knows how many turns it is top-to-bottom. It seems reasonable that it can self-calibrate different numbers t-to-b (as is almost certainly the case between the front and rear windows) if only because the cost of manufacturing door specific chips (car specific, even) all with different turn numbers, would be much more expensive than one universal chip.
There is a cylindrical magnet on the shaft of the motor and small Hall probes (on the PCB) alongside that presumably count turns so that the control chip knows where the window is. I imagine that the reset procedure (after a battery disconnect) is a calibration procedure so that the chip knows how many turns it is top-to-bottom. It seems reasonable that it can self-calibrate different numbers t-to-b (as is almost certainly the case between the front and rear windows) if only because the cost of manufacturing door specific chips (car specific, even) all with different turn numbers, would be much more expensive than one universal chip.
Last edited by Partick the Cat; 01-26-2019 at 05:56 AM.
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#9
I have this problem with the passenger door on mine and I don't think it's to do with the switch pack as the problem remains the same whether you use the driver's doors switch or the switch on the passenger door.
I think the problem is in the motor control board that is part of the motor assembly in the window regulator. It seems to me that the motor control system is somehow wrongly sensing a current overload (which it interprets as a jammed or obstructed window) and it shuts the system down for some seconds. I suspect there may be a problem with one of the switching relays on the control PCB. However, taking one apart looks to be a right PITA as there is a load of de-soldering needed before you can the PCB out.
I think the problem is in the motor control board that is part of the motor assembly in the window regulator. It seems to me that the motor control system is somehow wrongly sensing a current overload (which it interprets as a jammed or obstructed window) and it shuts the system down for some seconds. I suspect there may be a problem with one of the switching relays on the control PCB. However, taking one apart looks to be a right PITA as there is a load of de-soldering needed before you can the PCB out.
This worked!
I put in a used motor with black control
board (that is attached to the motor) and this resolved the issue. Thank you!
I used this how-to to remove the panel. These door panels are of better construction than my wife’s 06 Range Rover HSE. I can’t believe how easy the window motors are to work on this car- better than any make Ive worked on.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...repair-132821/
Thank you!
Last edited by megacattin; 02-10-2019 at 03:08 PM.
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Partick the Cat (02-11-2019)
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