2006 Super V8 with 137,978 miles.

On a recent British Iron club drive, after a spirited 80 mile drive down old 71 and an hour stop at Aux Arc winery, on trying to re-start my 06 SV8 stopped mid crank, the wipers came on (they were set to auto), and folks said a big puff of smoke came from the exhaust. It did then start but idle was rough and it displayed “restricted performance” in the message center for a mile or so and then it went away. At the next stop at another winery, after an hour’s visit when I started it, the check engine light came on, it idled poorly, and it set half a dozen engine codes which I erased with the UltraGauge without recording because the group was leaving. The restricted performance message was also on for a short time and then went off again and it seemed to drive normally the rest of the day, and my wife took it to her church the next day without incident.
Today I checked the engine codes and my UltraGauge showed no set engine codes but had pending codes of P0300, P0301, P0303, P0305, P0307, P0316, and P050B. I erased the pending codes and none came back while idling. I read that P0300 is a random misfire code and the other P030x codes indicate which cylinders – in this case all the odd numbered cylinders. P0316 is “Misfire Detected On Startup First 1000 Revolutions”, and P050B is “Cold Start Ignition Timing Performance”. From the web on P050B, “The engine's control module (PCM) does everything possible to help the catalytic converter warm up as quickly as possible in an effort to reduce emissions. Part of the control module's logic in the this process is to increase the amount of air flowing through the engine on startup and adjust the engine's timing accordingly. If the engine speed does not match the PCM's RPM request, the PCM will store code P050B.” Common Problems That Trigger the P050B Code, Clogged air filter, Idle Air Control (IAC) valve failure, Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor failure, Powertrain Control Module (PCM) failure, Throttle body assembly failure, Wiring issue.
Among the usual Jaguar codes, I had P1318 (battery voltage low) in Parking Brake Control and P1676 (battery voltage out of range) in Drivers Door and General Electronics Control. ABS Control had U0104 (no communication with speed control) and Instrument Pack had U2515 (no message from adaptive speed control) and B2139 (data mismatch).
So…I am wondering if I have a weak battery that caused all the misfire codes or if I have another engine problem that stalled the starter and caused the battery voltage codes. On the Club drive when this happened the alternator was charging at 13+ to 14 volts all day and today the battery had 12.59 volts with the ignition and engine off after idling for 5 to 10 minutes while I checked the Jag codes. I didn't think to check the battery voltage before starting it from cold; it cranked normally but seemed slightly rough at idle before it warmed up.
Any suggestions on where to look will be appreciated. I have no history on this car so I don't know what engine service has been done. My own work has been engine & tranny mounts, stabilizer bar bushings, thermostat, all three water pumps, air and oil filters, fluids, and air suspension compressor kit.

 

The battery is the most likely candidate.

I got a chuckle out of the name Aux Art for the winery. Wonder how many people get the pun?

 

There is some disagreement over whether the French explorers meant the bends in the Arkansas river or the curves of the hilltops seen everywhere in this area when they called it the Aux Arcs or "those arcs" to the later immigrants, but the winery folks are quick to say that Aux Arc is pronounced Ozark. There is also a State campground by that name so the winery is Chateau Aux Arc.

BTW, there are many great driving and motorcycle roads in these Aux Arcs.

 

'Aux' actually means 'at the' or 'to the' in french and not 'those'. French does not have separate words for these/those unlike English.

This has been your useless trivia moment of the day.

 

I would have the battery checked under load first of all.

It might be FOC or ~$20?

The dealer should have some history on your Jag which they

should give you once you prove ownership.

 

Car came from Houston and apparently was traded in to a Ford dealer who didn't want to deal with it and sold it to a used car company at auction. (that's how I could afford to buy it, although as someone said the most expensive car you can buy is a cheap Jaguar.) I did have it checked out by a friend on the Jag Lover's list who retired from a Houston Jag dealer so I asked him if they might have any records, but I suspect the PO did not take it to the dealer.

My wife said she got a CEL and the restricted performance message again starting it last night and both went away after driving a short distance. I'll check codes again and also test the battery with my HF load tester. Assuming I need a battery, what do I need? My notes say a group 49 but the Oreilly's Superstart 49PLT that before said it was an exact fit no longer lists my super V8.

Do I need a group 49? Do I need an AGM or is a lead acid OK; the AGMs I see on line have a lower CCA than the lead acid and are $80 more.

Edit: I checked the AC Delco 49a 825cca battery voltage at 12.46 volts cold and then held a 50 amp tester load on the battery for 15 seconds: the tester needle stayed well within the top green 500 cca range while the voltage dropped to 11.60 volts. The voltage immediately after the load test was 12.26 and rose to 12.44 in a short time. In any other car that would seem like a good battery, but is that not good enough for my SV8?

 

I have an H8 from Walmart, Maxx H8. It is lead acid from Johnson Controls in Wisconsin. There is lots of chatter about AGMs, but for those of us who may not wish to shell out the extra-- Mine is coming up to 3yrs old and so far has performed. I do not run the car in winter, garaged, but I keep the battery in the car on a C-Tek battery tender.

The battery came with a 9yr pro-rated warranty and the last time I looked were $124( Feb2017).
In my other car I have a Jaguar(Varta)battery which is 1 year newer. I have to say I think it is a superior battery--always has a higher voltage when I measure it even thogh cars have similar usage. This battery was about $100 more expensive(it was in the car when I bought it).

 

[QUOTE=philwarner;1680143]

Do I need a group 49? Do I need an AGM or is a lead acid OK; the AGMs I see on line have a lower CCA than the lead acid and are $80 more.

Edit: I checked the AC Delco 49a 825cca battery voltage at 12.46 volts cold and then held a 50 amp tester load on the battery for 15 seconds: the tester needle stayed well within the top green 500 cca range while the voltage dropped to 11.60 volts. The voltage immediately after the load test was 12.26 and rose to 12.44 in a short time. In any other car that would seem like a good battery, but is that not good enough for my SV8?

 

After checking the battery I started the engine to check codes and it idled lumpy. The CEL was off but pending codes on the UltraGauge were P0300, 301, 302, 303, 307, and 316. Then the CEL came on and codes set were P0300, 301, 302, 303, 305, 307, and 316. When I turned off the CEL with the UltraGauge, the cooling fan and the red over-temp light came on and the idle was even lumpier. I turned the ignition off and then restarted and the over-temp light was still on (although the temp on the UG was 146F), the temp gage did not register, and a P0116 code was pending. I started checking Jaguar codes on my I930 and the Powertrain Control Module also had a P0116 (coolant temp circuit range) and when I cleared it, the red over-temp light went out and the temp gage needle began registering. The Instrument Pack Module had a U2199 (invalid temp data), but there were no other unusual codes and no battery voltage codes. (I always have codes for the spare tire with no pressure sensor and a couple of seat position/range codes)
So…Any ideas? Could an intermittent temp sensor trigger all the misfire codes? Could it still be a battery voltage thing? The battery connections are clean and appear good and it seems to test OK for a normal car. Before starting the battery had 12.56 volts and after idling while checking codes and shutting down, the battery voltage was 12.70 volts. I am really puzzled about this latest X350 misfire code thing.

 

11.6vdc is below what Jag computers like to see. Everything still points to a failing battery.

 

My bad. I agree Mikey. 9.4 volts will indicate a dead battery but I agree that, at least with SDD connected, 11.6 vdc would not be acceptable, so Phil, my apologies. I would still take it to the auto parts store and have it load tested. Also, I don't recall the alternator output on my SV8 when I had it but my XK battery shows @ 14.2 volts when running. Could be apples and oranges comparison though.

 

I put a digital meter on the battery and watched it while my wife started the car. It was initially 12.27 volts, dropped to 12.01 volts when she got in and the seat was moving, and dropped to 11.01 volts while cranking, so the SV8 now has a new $195 Pro Series 49/H8 AGM battery from Battery Outfitters.

When I started the engine after installing the new battery, I had quite a few engine and Jaguar codes set and the idle wavered up and down for some time before it finally settled at a steady 600+ RPM. Many of the Jag codes had to do with failure of the ABS system to play nice with other modules and invalid coolant temp data, so I hope a few more starts and some driving will get it back to normal. I'll check the cranking voltage of the new battery after it cools down from idling while I checked/erased the codes. I'll report back if any of the coolant temp and engine misfire codes come back, but my fingers are crossed and I am knocking on wood (which is conveniently easy in an XJ8 cabin).