I would like input from guys that have done it to a SC 4.2. What brand? Wet or dry? How do you run the WOT switch without having a throttle cable or linkage? (Don’t trust pedal switch w/drive by wire). What about a window switch during gear changes? Spray before or after the blower? It appears that these engines run rich so I feel that the factory fuel system would adapt well to a 100 shot without additional fueling such as a wet system. Any info would be great from you guys. My end goal is low 12 sec quarter mile times and without changing to a twin screw this is the easiest cheapest way, albeit more risky.

 

Hello my friend. I will try to be as helpful as possible.

What brand?
I went with Nitrous Express. I've seen a few other members go with N2O Outlet as well though. The kit I purchased was the Proton kit, and I got all the safety switches and accessories, bottle warmer, purge, in cabin bottle pressure gauge etc.

Wet or dry?
Definitely wet, and possibly add a fuel additive in there for insurance like boostane. Also, make sure you change your plugs to smaller gap, and cooler heat range. NGK has the ones you need. I don't remember off the top of my head what the part number is, but I can check.

How do you run the WOT switch without having a throttle cable or linkage?
I had a shop install mine, I usually do all of my own work, but didn't want to take any chances with this. But they tied into the signal wire for the TB. It will only engage if I have the arm switch activated and on WOT, otherwise it wont spray. It is very reliable.

What about a window switch during gear changes?
Window switch would be best, the guy who got me onto this had one. But I don't have it, you can spray through gears and the car takes it fine. Consider this, the twin screw guys make the same or more power (all the time) that you would very occasionally make whenever you spray and the ZF6 holds up. Just make sure you do your trans flush if you haven't as a PM. Your issue will be traction for sure though.

Spray before or after the blower?
Before the blower, 6 inches away from the TB valve. I know it sounds weird, but trust me that's the way to go. It will cool the blower and boost down a bit too which will provide a nice bump in power.

It appears that these engines run rich so I feel that the factory fuel system would adapt well to a 100 shot without additional fueling such as a wet system
Don't roll the dice man. Our cars are already needing to run a lower AFR due to being boosted. You will need the fuel for anything over a 25 shot. Get all the safety switches as well. I know it adds up quickly, I went from intending to spend $400 on a nitrous system to spending close to $1900 not including installation (I rather pay $1900 for safe performance gains than several thousand towards a replacement engine... again). I know the car will be safe and more importantly I will be safe driving it. Also, keep an extinguisher with you just in case.

My end goal is low 12 sec quarter mile times and without changing to a twin screw this is the easiest cheapest way, albeit more risky
Low 12's will be easy, if you can hook. These cars run high 12's when they're healthy with a few mods. I have not ran low 12's (track is not real close and I go maybe once every 2 years), but I have a friend with a BMW that runs high 11's and my Jag on spray fairly easily takes his Bimmer from a roll.

If you are going to go down this route, make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks or misfires. Your Jag has to be healthy. Also, depending on the climate in your area, a lower temp T-stat might be worth considering. Here in hot and humid Florida, I need it if I plan on spraying.

You can enjoy the extra power without the consequences as long as you get and use the safety features. I don't drive my Jag much any more, but I haven't had an issue or even a scare with my nitrous system on the Jag since spraying for 2.5 years. A lot of the horror stories you hear about nitrous are caused by people who pushed the limits too far, or really cheaped out on the kits, bought them used with mix matched parts etc.

Let us know if you have any more questions and what you decide to go with.

 

That’s some good input for sure. Experience speaks volumes. So definitely a wet system eh? Ya that’s going to put me over budget for now. I just want to be able to pull on Scat Packs. They are so common and annoying here in the Detroit area.

 

https://www.jegs.com/i/ZEX-Nitrous/243/82023B/10002/-1 This... no switches engages off of TPMS voltage

 

Add bottle heater, purge system, remote opener, af gauge over 75 shot...or your wasting your time and money

 

Any update to this? I’ve been looking at throwing some nitrous to my S Type R. I fairly easily take most scat packs with my minor mods but want to go Hellcat hunting. 100 shot would put me near that I’d think. What route did you end up going?

 

The hundred shot of nitrous is really more of a tool for 60 roll kind of runs. If you use it from a standstill you'll just break the tires loose and that hellcat will be long gone... I added it on my XJR and it was great for added power at highway speeds. If you don't have LSD it may even slow you down from a dead start... 100 shot even with a roll you're not going to chase down a hellcat not even close...