140 Kpa coolant tank cap source?
#1
140 Kpa coolant tank cap source?
My 06 SV8 coolant tank cap appears to be leaking (lost 22 Ounces of coolant in last 90 miles) but the replacement caps available locally that claim to be for my car are 16 PSI and I think a Stant 10238 cap I bought before had different threads and would not even screw down. I assume Merriam would have the correct cap, but shipping is more than the cap price (about $21 total).
Any suggestions on a source of the original 140 Kpa (20 PSI) cap? Ford dealer perhaps since there are no Jaguar dealers around here?
Any suggestions on a source of the original 140 Kpa (20 PSI) cap? Ford dealer perhaps since there are no Jaguar dealers around here?
#3
Anyone know if all XJ8 caps are 140 Kpa or if supercharged engines use a cap different from the naturally aspirated?
#5
Oh yes, I did see that Welsh lists a cap under that part number on ebay for $7.50 with free shipping, but the cap has 120 Kpa on it in the photo as do several others under the same part number; there are a few that show the 140 Kpa also under the same part number. Strange!
#7
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#8
#9
According to Jaguar Classic Parts, Part No. XR82823, XR847957 and XR850837 have all been superseded by C2P17700. Picture of C2P17700 on the web shows 140 Kpa, not 120 Kpa, but some seller might be using the old stock picture. My 140 KPa cap came with the coolant reservoir as factory original.
#11
I picked up the expansion tank cap at Ozark Import Specialists in Springdale Arkansas today (shameless plug for these guys) and it came in a jaguar plastic bag with C2P17700 on the label which also said "Made to Jaguar specification in United Kingdom" It looks exactly like the old 140 kPa cap and also has embossed underneath "FoMoCo" ">PA66 GF30<" and "Made in India". The last time I looked, India was not in the UK, but then it was once a Colony. It was $11.79 including tax; Ozark Import Specialists rock.
Now to see if it fixes my coolant loss; it was harder to turn past the clicks.
Now to see if it fixes my coolant loss; it was harder to turn past the clicks.
Last edited by philwarner; 06-08-2017 at 05:25 PM.
#12
new cap but still loses coolant
Update: 6/14/2017 138,471 (expansion tank leaking?)
I drove 78 miles yesterday with the new 140kPa coolant cap the coolant temperature ranging between 195F and 215F on the Ultragauge. This morning the coolant was down to about halfway between the max and min steps in the tank and there was coolant around the seam of the expansion tank and streaks across the top. It did release pressure as I removed the new cap and there did not seem to be much coolant under the cap, so … is it common for the expansion tank to leak at the seams? Or should I be looking for another leak source? I’ll try to do a pressure test later today to see If I can locate a leak, but the last time I did that it held 20 PSI for an hour on my bicycle pump gauge with no apparent leaks.
I drove 78 miles yesterday with the new 140kPa coolant cap the coolant temperature ranging between 195F and 215F on the Ultragauge. This morning the coolant was down to about halfway between the max and min steps in the tank and there was coolant around the seam of the expansion tank and streaks across the top. It did release pressure as I removed the new cap and there did not seem to be much coolant under the cap, so … is it common for the expansion tank to leak at the seams? Or should I be looking for another leak source? I’ll try to do a pressure test later today to see If I can locate a leak, but the last time I did that it held 20 PSI for an hour on my bicycle pump gauge with no apparent leaks.
#13
update: 6/15/2017 138,471 (Pressure test at expansion tank; held 120 kPa for four hours)
With the engine at ambient temperature of 78 F, I installed a T between the hose bib on the coolant tank and the overflow hose; the bib on the tank looked OK with no cracks or looseness. I pressurized it with a bicycle pump to just slightly below 140 kPa (20 PSI) on the pump’s gauge; the coolant gurgled in the tank as pressure was added; the pressure would not go above 140 kPa with additional pump strokes so I assumed the new 140 kPa cap was releasing the pressure at its rating.
20 minutes later the pump gage had dropped to 120 kPa and additional strokes on the pump did not raise it above 120 kPa. I saw no coolant around the tank seam, the cap, the bleed screw, or any of the hoses that you can see from the top. 4 hours later the pressure was still 120 kPa and did not increase when I pumped half a dozen more strokes. I could not feel any air escaping from the little hole in the top of the cap when pumping, but it has to be escaping somewhere – perhaps underneath the cap?
When I removed the T and reconnected the overflow hose to the tank, the coolant level had dropped below the min step so I topped it up to between max and min steps; I didn’t measure the amount it took but it was probably about a cup. I had the bleed screw out while I added coolant.
So now I wonder if there might be a head gasket leak adding pressure to the cooling system and causing coolant to blow out through the cap or if it has to be a combination of heart and pressure to make it lose coolant. Any more suggestions?
With the engine at ambient temperature of 78 F, I installed a T between the hose bib on the coolant tank and the overflow hose; the bib on the tank looked OK with no cracks or looseness. I pressurized it with a bicycle pump to just slightly below 140 kPa (20 PSI) on the pump’s gauge; the coolant gurgled in the tank as pressure was added; the pressure would not go above 140 kPa with additional pump strokes so I assumed the new 140 kPa cap was releasing the pressure at its rating.
20 minutes later the pump gage had dropped to 120 kPa and additional strokes on the pump did not raise it above 120 kPa. I saw no coolant around the tank seam, the cap, the bleed screw, or any of the hoses that you can see from the top. 4 hours later the pressure was still 120 kPa and did not increase when I pumped half a dozen more strokes. I could not feel any air escaping from the little hole in the top of the cap when pumping, but it has to be escaping somewhere – perhaps underneath the cap?
When I removed the T and reconnected the overflow hose to the tank, the coolant level had dropped below the min step so I topped it up to between max and min steps; I didn’t measure the amount it took but it was probably about a cup. I had the bleed screw out while I added coolant.
So now I wonder if there might be a head gasket leak adding pressure to the cooling system and causing coolant to blow out through the cap or if it has to be a combination of heart and pressure to make it lose coolant. Any more suggestions?
#14
#15
When I had a case of coolant loss last year I replaced the main coolant pump, the thermostat, the brushes in the auxiliary pump, and grounded the relay coil for the supercharger cooling pump because the computer was not grounding it. I had no more coolant loss until 3600 miles later when the top radiator hose backed off on a drive in the country and let a gallon or two escape before I re-tightened the hose clamps and found an auto parts store to buy more coolant. Now 1600 miles later I seem to be back where I started chasing another coolant leak. Frustrating.